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OUTDOOR 

BOY 

CRAFTSMEN 


HANDICRAFT BOOKS 

BY 

A. NEELY HALL 


8vo. Cloth. Illustrated with hundreds of full-page 
and working drawings by the author 
and Norman P. Hall 


THE BOY CRAFTSMAN 
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 
THE HANDY BOY 

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS 
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 
CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
HOME-MADE GAMES AND GAME EQUIPMENT 
OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 











‘ ‘ Keystone . ’ ’ 


Fig. 1.—President Coolidge, when Governor, Helping Calvin, Jr. 
Build a Pushmobile. An Excellent Father and Son Project, 
Truly Fit for a President or a King. 



Fig. 2.—Cars Entered in Pushmobile Races Promoted by Bureau 


OF Recreation, Chicago Board of Education. 

(See Chapter I.) 









\ 


10 



OUTDOOR 

BOY 


Field andM<^ods 


At nome. in 

and in and onM^ter 

By ANeely Hall 

Author o/’ The Craftsman 
Handicraft: for Handy Boys 
Handicraft^r Handy Girls 
Home-Made lays ^r Girls and Boys ^ 
Home-Made Games and Game Equipment 
The Handy Boy 

Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys. Etc. 

« 

With over six hundred illustrations 
and working drawings by the author 


BOSTON 

LOTHROP LEE £? SHER^D CO. 




























































Copyright, 1925, 

By LOTHROP, lee & SHEPARD CO, 




All Rights Reserved 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Printed in the U. S. A, 


DEC-2’25 

©C1A872656 

o * 




There are only two things necessary in a hoy—to work . 
hard, and to behave himself .— Calvin Coolidge. 


PREFACE 

Americans are becoming an all-the-year-round outdoor 
people, and even cold weather activities, once conceded.to 
boys and others lacking sense enough to remain indoors, are 
engaging the attention of all the family. Most important, 
perhaps, is father’s greater interest in his boy’s hobbies, and 
his co-operation. There is no denying that this interest is 
bridging the gap in ages, bringing about a more congenial 
companionship, a leisure-hour partnership with benefits to 
both. 

The wide-awake boy is as conversant with motor and 
radio mechanics as is his father, indeed he is often better- 
informed, and the wide-awake father can talk convincingly 
of scouting, and the latest developments in football and other 
sports. We find the boy repairing his father’s car, over¬ 
hauling the radio set, making home repairs; we find the 
father serving as scoutmaster of his son’s Boy Scout troop, 
or as committeeman, going camping, including his son in 
hunting and fishing trips. We find father and son together 
in the home workshop building pushmobiles, ship models, 
kites, and motor-camping equipment, and at the summer 
home building a boat, diving-tower, rustic furniture, and 
other outdoor equipment. 

True, every father hasn’t had training in craftsmanship, 
but there is nothing to prevent his learning with his boy, and 
even if his activities consist of little more than organizing 


V 



VI 


PREFACE 


the work, and financing the purchase of tools and materials, 
he is an invaluable partner in these adventures in handicraft. 

OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN has been prepared for 
boys without age limit. Indeed, it might be called a father- 
and-son book of outdoor handicraft, since there is little 
difference in the outdoor activities of men and boys. Before 
the days of the automobile, it was necessary to plan one 
kind of projects for the city boy, another for the country 
boy, but now that trips far afield to lakes, woods, and moun¬ 
tains are possible for the city boy, and the country boy is no 
longer restricted to sports of the vicinity, this book of handi¬ 
craft for the home grounds, field, woods, and waters will 
serve the purpose of all. Its four hundred pages, illustrated 
by more than six hundred diagrams and photographs, are 
packed with ideas selected from my magazine and newspaper 
writings, the ideas that have proved best by test in activities 
most popular at the present time. 

A. Neely Hall. 

Elmhurst, Illinois, 

May 31, 1925. 



c Part I 

AT HOME 

CHAPTER I. PAGE 

PUSHMOBILES AND PUSHMOBILE RACING. I 

The Pushmobile Industry — Early Activities — Pushmobile Construction 
— Wheels — Disk Wheels — Axles — The Chassis — Steering-Gears — 
Bodies — Other Parts and Accessories — Finishing — Competitive 
Building — Pushmobile Races — Racing Rules — The Team — Pits — 
Officials — Prizes — Car Specifications. 

CHAPTER II. 

Late Model Pushmobiles . lo 

Your Next-Year’s-Model Roadster—The Chassis — The Body—The 
Hood — The Radiator — The Steering-Gear — Lamps — A Racing- 
Car With Torpedo Body—The Chassis— The Ydieel Axles— For Disk 
WTieels — The Hood — The Steering-Wheel Post — The Steering-Cable 
— The Seat—The Rear Framework—To Enclose the Body Frame¬ 
work — Complete the Hood — A Horn — Headlights and a Tail-Light 
— Painting — A Motor-Car. 

CHAPTER HI. 

A Scooter and A Coaster.21 

The Two-Wheel Scooter—The Reach-Plank — The Pivot Post—The 
Steering-Post — The Handle-Bar — The Wheels — Painting — A 
Coaster, Hand-Car, or Bicycle Trailer—The Parts — The Wheels — 
Push-Blocks or Sticks. 

CHAPTER IV. 

A Sailmobile.27 

The Chassis — The Front-Wheel Axle — The Rear Axle — The Tiller-Bar 
— Stirrups—The Mast Step—The Leg-o’-Mutton Sail—The Mast 

— The Spar Ends — The Rigging — The Sail — Painting. 

vii 




































CONTENTS 


• • • 

Vlll 


CHAPTER V. PAGE 

Targets.33 

The Air-Rifle Target and BB Trap^—The Target—The FramewOi"k — 

A Canvas Curtain — The Trap — Suspending the Target — A Standard 


Target Sheet ■— A Backstop — The Target — Painting the Target- 
Rings — The Revolving Pipes — A Pulley Wheel — Mounting the Tar¬ 
get — The Revolving Device. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Stilts ............. 41 

Stilt-Walking — A “Kid” Circus and Its Stilt-Walkers — A Pair of Hand 
Stilts — The Material — The Stilt Uprights — The Steps — Toe- 
Straps — Finishing With Paint or Enamel — Hip-Stilts — The Stilt 
Uprights — The Steps — The Shoe and Ankle Straps — The Waist-Belt 
— Paper Trousers — The Coat — A Top Hat — Tin-Can Trotters — 
Stake-Walking. 

CHAPTER VH. 

Fish Ponds, Lily Ponds, and Bird Baths..52 

A Concrete Fish Pond — The Size of the Pond — The Excavation — 
Forms—The Bottom Cinders—To Mix Concrete—Placing the 
Bottom — To Prepare the Wall Forms — Casting the Walls — Remov¬ 
ing the Forms — Reinforcing — Waterproofing — A Drain — Stocking 
the Pond— Outdoor Swimming-Pools— A Circular Pool—A Concrete 
Circular Pool—A Concrete Bird Bath—A Market for Bird Baths— 

— The Wooden Form — To Cast the Bird Bath. 

CHAPTER VHI. 

Bird Homes ........... 63 

Wren Houses and Bluebird Houses—Building Specifications — The 
Height to Place the Houses — Paint or Stain — A Wren Bungalow — 
Building the Bungalow — Boring the Entrance-Hole — Provision for 
Cleaning—For Hangers — A Bluebird Bungalow — Hanging the 
House—A Wren Turret—The Materials—The Construction of the 
House — The Doorways — Perches — The Partitions — The Ceiling — 

The Roof — The Shingles — The Priming Coat of Paint — The Second 
Coat — The Roof Peak and Hangers — Assembling — Spring House- 
Cleaning — Hanging the Wren Turret — A Bluebird Round House ■—• 

The Construction—The Doorway—The Tin-Basin Roof—A Perch 
— The Floor — The Support — Painting the House — A IMartin Apart¬ 
ment-House— Martin Requirements—Attracting Martins—Keeping 
Out English Sparrow's. 



CONTENTS 


IX 


CHAPTER IX. page 

Pigeon Cotes and A Fly . , 76 

Housing Pigeons— A Small Cote— Building Material — The Front Wall 
Sections — The Doorways — The Floor—The Roof—An Enclosed 
Fly— The Framework — Bracing— Covering with Poultry-Netting — 

The Doorway — Erecting the Cote — Nests — For Nesting Material — 

A Lice-Preventive Measure— Roosts— Feed-Hoppers and Water-Con¬ 
tainers — A Sectional Pigeon Cote — Material — Building the Platform 
— A Typical Story Section — The Doorways — The Floor — The Parti¬ 
tions — The Roof — Assembling — Painting, 

CHAPTER X. 

Snow Houses.86 

The Dome-Shaped Eskimo Hut — The Walls — A Roof Framework — A 
Snow Roof — The Doorway — The Snow Block House — A Mold for 
Casting Blocks — Casting — Building the Block House — The Window 
— The Doorway — To Support the Roof. 

Part II. 

IN FIELD 

CHAPTER XI. 

A Boy Scout Trek Cart . . . ..93 

The Trek Cart’s Utility — The Cost and Upkeep — The Problem of Wheels 
— Building the Cart—The Axle—The Tongue and Body Frame — 

The Running-Gear — The Box — The Prairie Schooner Top — The Top 
Hoops —• The Top Cover — Painting — Other Uses for the Trek Cart — 

A Mast for a Radio Aerial — To Rig Up the Mast — To Carry the Mast- 
Bar. 


CHAPTER XH. 

Hike and Bike Kits . . . . . . . . . 103 

The Way to Make a Blanket Roll— A Haversack — A Neckerchief Slide 
— A Turtle Shell Neckerchief Slide — Your Watch as a Compass — 
Barbed-Wire Fence Hooks—A Vest Pocket First-Aid Kit—The 
First-Aid Supplies — The Tobacco Can — A Mending Kit — A Bicycle 
Parcel-Carrier — The Home-Made Parcel-Carrier—To Make the Car¬ 
rier— Painting the Parts — A Bicycle Road Map — Mounting Your 
Map on Muslin. 


X 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER XIII. PAGE 

Nature Study Collections. . . . . . . . .116 

A Hand Net — The Hoop and Handle — Sewing the Net — A Moth Trap 
— The Lighted End — Operating the Trap — Killing Specimens — A 
Killing Jar — A Lamp-Chimney Observatory—An Observation Cage 
— Carrying-Receptacles — A Spreading-Board — Drying Specimens 
— A Specimen Cabinet — An Herbarium Press — The Top and 
Bottom Boards — The Layers of Drying Material — Assembling the 
Press. 


CHAPTER XIV. 

Stereoscopic Pictures.. . . .128 

Stereoscopic Pictures With Your Camera—The Exposures—Mounting 
the Prints—Transposing the Prints—Making the Gauge-Board — A 
Camera Tripod. 


CHAPTER XV. 

Kites and Kite Tournaments. 132 

The Lasting Popularity of Kite-Flying — Kite-Flying as a School Project 
— Kite Workmanship — Kite-Making Materials — The Sticks — A 
Simpler Way to Prepare Sticks — The Material for Sticks — Heavy 
Linen Thread for Binding Sticks — For Covering JMaterial — For Flying 
Line — Kite Construction — The Secret of Making a Framework — 
Notching Sticks—The Modern Way of Notching — The Framing- 
String— Fastening the Framing-String—Methods of Attaching the 
Bridle — Tails — To Join the Flying-Line Securely — Covering the 
Framework — Decorating Kite Models—A Kite Tournament — 
Races — The Pulling Test — The Altitude Event — An Aerial Battle — 

The Kite Building Contest — The Beauty Contest — The Novelty 
Contest — The Success of a Tournament — A Kite Hospital. 


CHAPTER XVI. 

More Kites.143 

The Advantages of Tailless Kites — The Malay or Bow Kite — The 
Sticks — The Covering — The Side to Attach the Bridle to — To Make 
the Kite Perform Erratically — The Conyne Kite — The Conyne a 
Strong Puller — The Construction — The Four Sticks — The Covering 
Material — To Form the Triangular Cells — The Hexagonal Plane — 

The Bridle — The Box Kite — If You Bungle the Work — The Side 
Frames — The Diagonal Struts—The Cell Covering—Assembling — 

The Bridle — To Launch the Box Kite — If Your Kite Doesn’t Fly. 


CONTENTS 


XI 


CHAPTER XVIL 


PAGE 


Kite Reels ..... 

****•••• 

Caring for the Kite Line — A Shin Reel — The Winding Drum — The 
Frame — The Crank — The Shin Stick — A Hand Reel — A Body Reel. 


154 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

Feeding Birds in Winter . . . . ... 

A Census of Winter Guests — Stocking the Feeding Stations — Winter 
Food — A Suet Station — The Parts — The Wire Front — A Suet and 
Seed Station — The Parts — The Suet Cup — A Bird’s Cafeteria — 
Use a Grocery Box—The Hangers — The Suet Rack — A Perch — 
The Seed Hopper—The Trolley—Finishing Feeding Stations — 
Building Feeding Stations to Sell. 


CHAPTER XIX. 

A Coaster and a Single Runner ....... 

A Speedy Coaster — The Runners— Runner Shoes— The Crosspieces — 
The Seat — The Sled Handles — Finishing — A Single Runner. 


169 


Part III. 


IN WOODS 


CHAPTER XX. 

Motor Camping . .177 

Camping Out With Dad — The Fun of Motor-Camping — The Motor- 
Camping Outfit — The Motor-Camping Caravan — The Motor Pull¬ 
man — The Home-Made Pullman — The Trailer — The Home-Made 
Trailer — An Objection to Trailers Not Substantiated—Car Beds — 

One Type of Car Bed — x\nother Type — A Home-Made Bed — Another 
Scheme — Camp Cots — A Pneumatic Camp Mattress — Bedding — 

Tents — The Wall Tent — Tent Poles — Folding Tent Poles — The 
Lean-to Tent — The Umbrella Tent — The Shelter Tent — A Ground 
Cloth — A Mosquito-Netting Curtain — A Tent-Bag — Stoves — The 
Two-Burner Gasoline Stove — The Camp Grate — Food Supplies — 

What to Have for Meals — A Refrigerator — A Fisherman’s Refriger¬ 
ator — Other Food-Containers — A Kitchen Cabinet — A Home- 
Made Cabinet — Utensils — Clothing — Shoes — A Poncho — Sundry 
Needs — Camping Sundries — Automobile Sundries — Personal Sun¬ 
dries — Packing the Outfit — A Running-Board Rack — Duffle Bags — 
Running-Board Boxes — A Home-Made Running-Board Box — Mak¬ 
ing and Breaking Camp — Camp an Hour Before Sunset — The Water 
Supply — Obtaining Permission to Camp — Tourist Camp-Grounds. 


Xll 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER XXI. page 

Your Radio in Camp.. . . 203 

Music in Camp — The Crystal Set — The One-Tube Set — Portable Sets 
— Carrying Cases — A Waterproof Cover — A Carrying Case — Bat¬ 
teries and Spare Parts — The Aerial — Tree Aerials — A Trek-Cart 
Aerial — A Car Aerial — The Loop Aerial — Water-Craft Aerials — 

The Dragging Wire Aerial — Grounds — Loud Speakers — A Lightning- 
Arrester. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Using a Shelter Tent.. . .211 

Reclaimed Tents — A Tent of Utility — Tent Poles — The Correct 
Length — Tree-Branch Poles — A Regulation Tent Pole — Pitching 
a Shelter Tent — Omitting the Poles — Front Flaps — A Mosquito- 
Netting Front — A Ground-Cloth—Shelter Tents Pitched Tandem — 

A Shelter Tent With Walls — The Open Front — A Shelter-Half Roll — 

To Form the Horse-Collar. 

CHAPTER XXIII 

A Tree Platform, Tent, and Hut . . . . . . .221 

The Hut, a Cherished Ambition — A Tree Platform — Old Lumber — 

The Platform Supports — The Platform Joists — The Struts — The 
Floor — A Railing — A Tree Tent — The Framework — The End 
Trusses — The Joists — The Floor-Boards — Ladders — A Simpler 
Platform Construction — To Erect the Tent — A Tree Hut — The Walls 
— To Set Up the Walls—The Best Roof—A Batten Door—Insu¬ 
lating the Walls. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

A Tent Cottage.231 

A Semi-Permanent Structure — The Design and Size — Material—The 
Framework—The Covering Material—Building the Framework — 

The Floor Platform — The Side Walls — The Roof Rafters — The End 
Walls — Boarding Up the Walls — A Gate — The Canvas Covering — 
Tacking the Canvas — Awnings for the Openings — The Doorway 
Curtain — Painting — Waterproofing. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Tepees and a Lean-To Shelter, . . . . , . . 237 

Woods Camping Like Pioneers—A Thatched Tepee — Another Form of 
Tepee — Spacing the Poles — The Covering — A Lean-to Shelter — 

The Framework — Thatching — A Bed of Boughs. 


CONTENTS 


Xlll 


CHAPTER XXVI. page 

Camp Cots, Chairs, and Tables ........ 244 

Camp Handicraft — A Camp Cot — A Folding Cot — Cutting the Parts 
— Assembling — The Canvas Covering — A Camp Chair — The Parts 
— Assembling — Covering the Seat — The Chair Back — A Back- 
woods Chair — A Box Chair — A Camp Table — A Table With a 
Shelf — A Table With Benches Combined — The Material — The End 
Frames — The End Rails — The Top — The Seat Planks — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Rustic Furniture . . ..257 

Building Rustic Furniture a Novelty—A Bench—The Material—As¬ 
sembling the Frames — The Seat — Tree Seats — The Double Seat — 

The Tree Bench — A Rustic Wash-Bench — A Cot — A Hat-Tree. 

CHAPTER XXVHI. 

Other Camp Furnishings.265 

Safeguarding Camp Supplies — Food-Bags — A Meat-Safe — A Refrig¬ 
erator — Installing the Refrigerator — A Chest and Cupboard — The 
Chest— For the Cupboard— A Dresser— A Wash-Stand — A Candle 
Lantern — A Hat-Tree — Clothes-Hangers — Clothes-Pin Hangers — 

A Match-Container — A Camp Broom — A Small Shovel. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Camp Fireplaces, Stoves, and Ovens.278 

Requirements for a Cooking Fire — Starting a Cooking Fire — Forest 
Fires and Their Prevention — A Fire-Pit — Fire-Logs — A Crane — 

A Lug-Pole — Pot-Hooks — Legs for a Camp Stove— A Folding Camp 
Grate — A Hinge Camp Grate — A Bank Oven — The Fire-Pot — 

The Oven — The Chimney — The Doors. 

Part IV. 

IN AND ON WATER 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Canoe Sails and Lee-boards . . . . . . . .291 

Rigging the Canoe for Sailing — A Lateen Sail — The Sail — The Spars — 

The Mast — To Support the Mast — The Boom and Yard — Lashing 
the Sail — The Halyard — The Sheet — Lee-boards — The Stock — 
Laying Out the Pieces — Cutting the Pieces — The Cross-Bar — The 
Assembly — Finishing — To Prevent Warping — A Small Portable Sail 
— The Sail — The Sprit — The Mast — To Support the Mast. 


XIV 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER XXXI. page 

A Flat-Bottomed Boat. . 301 

Building the Boat Before Vacation — The Building Material — Cutting the 
Parts—The Stem-Piece—The Stern-Piece—The Center Mold — 

The Sides — Assembling — The Bottom Boards — The Upper Side 
Boards — To Complete the Outside — The Keel — Calking — The Seats 
— Oar-Lockets and Oars — The Lockets — The Oars — Painting — 
Lettering the Name — Refinements in Boat Building — A Lazy-Back — 
Finishing — An Anchor. 


CHAPTER XXXH. 

Making Your Boat Leak-Proof.311 

Reconditioning Your Boat — Waterproofing — Marine Glue—The Cover¬ 
ing Material — Applying the Waterproofing — Spreading the Cloth — 
Ironing the Cloth — Finishing. 


CHAPTER XXXHI. 

A Shelter-Tent Houseboat.315 

Camping Out in a Houseboat — The Building Material — The Hull — 

The Sides — The Bow and Stern Pieces — The Bottom Boards — The 
Cabin Floor — The Decks — Lockers — Painting the Hull — The Tent 
Cabin — Fittings — A Pair of Oars. 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

A Diving-Raft and a Tower. 321 

Safe and Unsafe Rafts — A Raft With Air-Tanks — Empty Oil-Barrels — 
Cradle Supports— The Raft Platform— For the Diving Spring-board — 
Painting — Anchors — A Diving-Tower — The Building Material — 

The Framework — A Crib — The Ladder — The Platforms — The 
Spring-board — Dedication — Another Type of Tower. 


CHAPTER XXXV. 

A Water Scooter or Surf-Board ....... 

Surf-Riding—The Water Scooter—It Is Built Like a Canoe — The 
Materials — Cutting the Parts — The Molds — The Side Strips — The 
Bow Strip — The Ribs — Assembling the Parts—Sheathing the Bot¬ 
tom and Deck — Insulation Lumber— The Waterproofing Covering — 
Finishing— Painting— The Reins and the Tow-Rope, 


CONTENTS 


XV 


.CHAPTER XXXVI page 

A Water Chute . . . ..341 

Shooting the Chutes at Bathing, Beaches — Financing a Small Chute — 

The Material—The Construction — The Taking-Off Platform—The 
Starting Platform — The Slide — A Ladder — Tracks — The Coaster 
— The Roller-Skate Wheels — Finishing the Coaster — A Coaster 
Railway, an Alternative Plan. 


CHAPTER XXXVn. 

Fishing-Tackle ........... 349 

Dude and Home-JMade Fishing-Tackle — A Home-Made Fishing-Rod — 

The Tip — Guides — Fishing-Pole Repairs — Lost Tips and Guides — 
Broken Rods — Whipping Spliced Joints — Floats — The Cork Float — 
Sinkers—BB Shot—Cast Sinkers—Stone Sinkers—Knots and 
Hitches Used by Fishermen — A Small Tackle-Box — To Prepare the 
Cigar-Box — Stringers — The Way to Use a Stringer — A Fishing-Line 
Drying-Reel. 


CHAPTER XXXVHI. 

A Minnow-Seine, Trap, and Other Devices ..... 362 

Catching Minnows for Bait—A Home-Made Seine — To Make It — A 
Good Way to Handle the Seine — A Minnow-Trap — The Wire Cylin¬ 
ders — The Conical Ends — A Live-Bait Box — How to Make It — 
Supporting the Box on Stilts—A Dip Net—A Minnow-Bucket — A 
Floating Minnow-Bucket — The Inset. 


CHAPTER XXXIX. 

A Turtle-Trap. 373 

How the Trap Works — The Box — The Tilting Top — Setting Up the 
Trap — Baiting the Trap. 


CHAPTER XL. 

A Marine Telescope. 376 

Studying Marine Life — A Home-Made Marine Telescope — The Glass 
End — The Box — Handles—To Counterbalance the Buoyancy — 
Painting the Box — Panoramic Views. 


XVI 


CONTENTS 


. CHAPTER XLI. . page 

An Ice-Yacht ........... 380 

Park Ice-Yacht Races—A Winning Yacht — The Material Required — 

The Runner Blocks — The Skate Runners — The Mast Socket Plates — 

The Rear Runner Blocks — The Steering-Gear — The Seat — The 
Spars, Sail, and Rigging — The Mast — The Boom and Gaff — The 
Sail — Mast-Rings — Attaching the Halyard — The Sheet — The In¬ 
stallation of a Brake — Finishing — Mounting a Flag — Decorating the 
Sail. 


CHAPTER XLH. 

Skate-Sails and Skiis .......... 388 

Adult Interest in Winter Sports — Skate-Sails and Skate-Sailing — A 
Skate-Sail With a “T” Frame — The Spars— The Sail — A Skate-Sail 
With an Inverted “A” Frame — The Frame — A Square Skate-Sail — 

The Spars — The Sail — Barrel Stave Skiis — Skiis of Standard Design 
— The Length — The Best Material — Skiis of Three-Quarter-Inch 
Stock — Shaping the Skiis — Curving the Toe End — Toe Straps — 

Skiis of Thicker Material—Finishing Your Skiis — A Skiing-Staff — 

The Spur End of the Staff — Painting the Staff. 

CHAPTER XLHI. 

Winter Fishing.. 403 

Find Sport for Red-Blooded Boys — Fishing-Signals — The Tip-Up 
Device — The Line — Cutting the Fishing-Hole — An Ice-Cutter — 
Unprotected Ice-Holes — A Shelter—The Tent Platform — The Tent 
Poles — An End Gate. 


Index . 


. 409 


LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 


{In addition to more than 6oo text illustrations) 


PART I 


Fig. I. 
Fig. 2. 


Fig. 

Fig. 

Fig. 


President Coolidge, when Governor, Helping Calvin, Jr.l 

Build a Push mobile.| Frontis- 

Cars Entered in Pushmobile Races Promoted by 
Buteau of Recreation, Chicago Board of Education 




piece 


OPPOSITE 

PAGE 


4 - 

5. 


Fig. 35. 
Fig. 36. 


A Metal-Covered Body Looks Best. 

With Goggles and Duster This Driver Is All Set for a 

Race. 

Wheel, Bumper, and Motor Meter Are Included with 
this Late Model. 

It Is Not a Far Step from Pushmobile to Motor-Car 
The Scooter Is Speedier than the Pushmobile . 


Fig. 80. Stilt-Walkers at a Playground Circus. Take Your 

Choice and Watch Your Step. 

Fig. 81. Adjustable Stilts Accustom One by Degrees to Step-}> 

ping at Dizzy Heights. 

Fig. 82. Sister, too. Goes Stepping with Brother’s Long Ones 

Fig. 99. Stock Your Fish Pond from a Near-by Stream . . . j 

Fig. ioo. a Concrete Bird Bath .[ 

Fig. ioi. Form for Concrete Block. 

Fig. 102. The Cast Block. 


Fig. 117. A Wren Bungalow .... 

Fig. 118. A Wren Turret. 

Fig. 119. a Bluebird Round House . 

Fig. 150. A Pigeon Cote or Martin House 

xvii 


20 


42 


52 


64 






















XVlll 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


Fig. 158. 
Fig. 159. 
Fig. 160. 


Fig. 168. 

Fig. 177. 
Fig. 178. 
Fig. 179. 
Fig. 180. 

Fig. 225. 

Fig. 226. 
Fig. 227. 
Fig. 228. 

Fig. 239. 
Fig. 240. 
Fig. 241. 

Fig. 261. 
Fig. 262. 
Fig. 263. 


Fig. 289. 

Fig. 290. 

Fig. 291. 
Fig. 292. 
Fig. 310. 


PART II. 


OPPOSITE 

PAGE 


Boy Scout Trek Carts Are Often the Outstanding 

Feature of the Holiday Parade. 

The Cost of Building a Cart Is Small; the Work Is 

Quickly Done. 

The Top May Be Set Up for a Shelter, the Box Inverted 
for a Table, the Running-Gear Used for Hauling Fire¬ 
wood . 


92 


Knocked Down, the Trek Cart Forms a Table, a Shelter, 
and an Aerial Mast. 


100 


A Hike Pack.1 

The Way to Roll a Shelter Half.I 

A Vest Pocket First-Aid Kit. 

A Bike Pack. 

J 

These Kites Were Correctly Proportioned and Carefully 

Made, and All Flew. 

A Ship Kite .► 

A Chinese Junk Kite .... 

A Butterfly Kite. 

A Malay or Bow Kite .... 

A Conyne Kite. 

A Box Kite Ready to Launch 

A Suet Station. 

A Suet and Seed Station . 

A Trolley Cafeteria for Winter Birds 



104 


134 


144 


160 


PART III. 


In Motor Camps One Sees All Sorts of Shelters—Pull¬ 
mans, Trailers, and Lean-To, Wall and Umbrella 

Tents. 

The Tepee, and Fireplace with Lug-Pole, May Be Built 
where Poles Are Plentiful. 

• 

A Car Bed Accommodates Two and Makes a Tent Un-" 

necessary . 

But the Lean-To Tent and Cots Are Preferred by Many 

Motor Campers. 

Hinged Tent Poles Made into Pack for Running-Board 
or Bumper. 


176 


182 





























LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


XIX 


Fig. 311. 
Fig. 312. 

Fig. 313. 
Fig. 332. 

Fig. 333. 

Fig. 334. 
Fig. 360. 

Fig. 361. 
Fig. 362. 

Fig. 388. 
Fig. 389. 

Fig. 440. 
Fig. 441. 


Fig. 443. 
Fig. 444. 

Fig. 463. 


Fig. 464. 
Fig. 465. 

Fig. 466. 

Fig. 499. 
Fig. 500. 


OPPOSITE 

PAGE 

A Running-Board Kitchen Cabinet.' 

A Running-Board Rack Will Hold Tent, Poles, Cots, 

Axe, and Gasoline Stove.[ 

A Running-Board Box. 


The Shelter or Pup Tent Is Well Adapted to Joint' 
Ownership. Each Boy Owns and Packs a Shelter 

Half. 

Pitched Tandem, the Shelter Tent Will Accommodate > 
from Four to Six Boys, According to the Degree of 

Sleepiness. 

Walls Increase the Head Room of the Shelter Tent 

The Completed Framework of the Tent Cottage, withl 
the Covering Removed for Winter Storage . . . I 

A Thatched Tepee.^ 

A Tepee Covered with Burlap. 


214 


236 


Camp Table with Benches Combined.] 

Let the Twists and Bends Nature Has Given the 
Branches Dictate the Design of Your Rustic Bench] 

The Hinge Camp Grate Is Great for Camp Eats . . ] 

A Clay Bank and Scraps of Sheet Iron Were Used to ► 
Build this Dandy Oven. 


256 


286 


PART IV. 

For this Day of Speed, the Canoe Must Have Its Sail 
This Portable Sail May Be Used for Canoe or Rowboat 

The Flat-Bottomed Boat Is One of the Best Models a 
Boy Can Build. It Is Excellent for Fishing, for the 
Bathing Beach, and for General Utility .... 

The Flat-Bottomed Boat Is Well Adapted to the Use of 

V -102 

an Outboard Motor . 

This Model Has Refinements Lacking in the Model 

Shown in Fig. 463. 

A Lazy-Back and an Anchor. 

A Swan Dive from a Tower Built on a Pier . . .1 

Riding the Surf on a Water Scooter Has All the Thrills 330 
of Bareback Riding.j 




















XX 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


OPPOSITE 

PAGE 

Fig. 590. Home-Made Ice-Yachts on the Line, Awaiting thel 

Starter’s Signal . ..> 380 

Fig. 591. Winning Yacht of Franklin Park Playgrounds, Chicago J 

Fig. 617. A Fleet of Skate-Sails.\ 

Fig. 618. Barrel-Stave Skiis Afford Barrels of Fun . . . . / 





PART 1 

At Home 
































t 



The pushmobile industry, if we may speak of it as such? 
got under way shortly after the marketing of the first auto¬ 
mobiles, and had its origin in the brain of some wide-awake 
American boy determined to possess an up-to-date home¬ 
made vehicle. The same spirit impelled him that has led 
other ambitious lads to find ways and means to contrive 
duplicates, or models of most of the much-sought-after 
pleasure-producing devices of to-day, proving the adage: 

Where there’s a will there’s a way.” 

And simultaneously with the running off of the first 
Vanderbilt Automobile Race, a pushmobile race with official 
starter, timer, judges, cups for prizes, and everything else in 
regulation style, was held at Flushing, Long Island. These 
races are now an annual event in many communities. They 
have done much to stimulate competition in designing and 
building. 

Details of early pushmobile activities will be found in 
“Handicraft for Handy Boys.” The pioneer models were 
crude affairs, yet compared favorably with automobiles of 
the time. Indeed, development of the one has kept pace 
with that of the other. 

Building and racing pushmobiles is fun, and the fun is 


I 


















2 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


about as contagious as measles. Even dads are not immune. 
Some lend a hand from a sense of ‘‘a, father’s duty,” others 
from genuine interest in model-building. An instance of this 
father and son cooperation is found in the frontispiece which 
shows President Coolidge, then Governor of Massachusetts, 
building a pushmobile with his son, Calvin, Jr. Truly this 
is sport for president or king. Every dad isn’t a handy man, 
of course, but if his enthusiasm for making things is keen he 
will help out in some way, and his larger experience should 
be of immense value when it comes to developing accessories. 

PUSHMOBILE CONSTRUCTION 

Wheels. The first problem that confronts the pushmobile 
builder is that of getting the right kind of vEeels. Boys 
were formerly not so particular as now. The preference 
is for the small rubber-tired disk wheels with which the 
better makes of scooters and express wagons are equipped, 
though you will still find large wheels, wire-spoke and 
wooden-spoke wheels, with and without rubber tires, and 
the front pair of wheels not always matching the rear. You 
will see a variety of combinations in the photographs. Figs. 
4 to 6. Of course, for a racing car, speed depends upon the 
wheels as well as the skill of pusher and driver, and rubber- 
tired ball-bearing wheels are superior to others. 

If you do not own enough wheels, maybe you can strike 
a bargain with another boy. Wagon, velocipede, tricycle, 
and baby-carriage wheels will serve the purpose. 

Disk Wheels. If you wish to make disk wheels out of 
wheels having spokes, cut disks out of sheet-metal and clip 
them on to the spokes, as described in Chapter II. A spare 


PUSHMOBILES AND PUSHMOBILE RACING 


3 


wheel may be cut out of wood and painted to match the 
others. 

Axles. Of course, there must be axles and nuts to fit fhe 
axle ends. If you cannot find the axles that belong to the 
wheels, take your measurements to a blacksmith and have 
him cut and thread a pair of iron rods. The cost will be 
small. 

The Chassis. Bodies vary in design and construction, 
but most of the chassis are built as shown in the typical 



Fig. 3. —Typical Longitudinal Section of Pushmobile Chassis. 


longitudinal section (Fig. 3). In this diagram, the wheel 
axles are marked Aj the front axle block B, the front bolster 
C, the rear bolster D, the side rails E. Stock inches 
square is right for the axle block, front bolster and side rails. 
The rear bolster requires a piece of 2-by-4. The most secure 
way of fastening the frame members is with bolts. You can 
buy carriage bolts of the length you need at any hardware 
store. The front axle block must be pivoted to the front 
bolster with a king-bolt. Buy a ^-inch carriage-bolt 3X 
inches long for this. Use washers below the bolt-head, 
between blocks B and C, and between the nut and block B, 












4 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Steering Gears do not vary greatly. Get an automobile 
steering-wheel if you can. Every public garage has dis¬ 
carded wheels kicking around, one of which you can usually 
obtain for half a dollar. If you cannot get an auto wheel, 
you can use an old sewing-machine wheel (Fig. 20, Chapter‘2) 
or a toy wagon wheel (Fig. 29). The steering-shaft is best 
made of a piece of iron pipe, but a broom-handle will do with 
a wagon wheel. In Fig. 3, the wheel is marked F, the shaft 
G. Upon the end of the shaft mount a spool built up of 
three wooden disks, the center one {H) i inch smaller in 
diameter than the outer ones (/), to form a groove for the 
steering cable. 

The steering cable requires a piece of sash-cord. Loop 
this around the pulley, and carry the ends down through 
screw-eyes in the inner face of rails F, thence to screw-eyes 
near the ends of axle block B. The steering shaft is sup¬ 
ported by the cowl bulkhead K and a second bulkhead (L) 
set up at the right point to catch the end of the shaft. Make 
the bulkheads of dimensions of correct proportion for radia¬ 
tor front J. Bore the holes only a trifle larger than the 
diameter of the shaft so there will be little play. Fit blocks 
M to opposite sides of bulkhead L, bore the shaft holes 
through them and drive pins into the shaft to hold it in 
position. 

Bodies. The best-looking pushmobile bodies are covered 
with metal, but a satisfactory covering of canvas can be put 
on in the same way that boat bottoms are covered, if the 
body is carefully built of wood and all surfaces are made 
smooth, though the paint job will not compare with that on 
a metal body. ’ Many bodies are covered with neither metal 



Fig. 4 .—A Metal-Covered Body Looks Best. 



Fig. 5 .—With Goggles and Duster this Driver is All Set for 

A Race. 





Fig. 6.—Wheel, Bumper and Motor Meter are Included with 

this Late Model. 







PUSHMOBILES AND PUSHMOBILE RACING 


5 


nor canvas, as you will see by the photographs of Figs. 4 to 6. 
Radiator fronts may be enclosed with screen cloth, but wire 
mesh having ^-inch or ^-inch openings is better. 

Other Parts and Accessories. A front bumper can be 
made of iron pipe and pipe fittings, or of wood. A radiator 
cap can be made of a tin-can cover. Excellent headlights 
can be made of tin cans, as is shown in Chapter II; also cowl 
lamps. A flashlight may be used for a spotlight. Figure 6 
shows a car with a windshield. All this requires is a wooden 
frame and a piece of glass, or to simplify the work, the glass 
may be omitted. 

Those of you who are strong for accuracy of detail may go 
into the matter of devising motor meter, brakes, auto horn, 
fenders and other parts. There is almost no end to the 
work one may put upon a pushmobile model. 

Finishing. Auto enamels can be purchased in small size 
cans in all colors. As enamel paints are more expensive 
than oil paints, first give the pushmobile body and chassis 
two coats of oil paint. Then .one coat of enamel will be 
sufficient. After the body and chassis have been enameled, 
trim them with enamel of contrasting color. The photo¬ 
graphs opposite page 4 offer suggestions which you might 
follow. 


COMPETITIVE BUILDING 

When your car is ready for use and you start out upon the 
pavement with it, it will attract lots of attention, especially 
if you have done a good job. For a time you will be envied 
by every boy in the neighborhood, and every one will want 


6 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


to become your mechanician; but as soon as the fellows 
realize that they, too, can own pushmobiles there will be 
competitors in the field. That, of course, is just what you 
want. By the time half a dozen cars have been produced, 
there will be opportunity to compare your skill as builder . 
and driver with that of other builders and drivers. Maybe 
your car will prove the best, maybe the poorest. If your 
rating isn’t high, let the experience spur you on to build a 
better car. You have learned the shortcomings of the first 
model and should produce a record-breaker. 


PUSHMOBILE RACES 

Pushmobile races interest old and young alike, and are 
spectacular, even though there are no cases on record of 
fatalities or of broken bones, or of spectators succumbing to 
heart attacks as the result of .over excitement. The pro¬ 
motion of a race is a matter for father and the other boys’ 
fathers to get behind. Maybe there is an organization in 
your community interested in boys’ activities that would be 
willing to sponsor the races, or your school principal or 
manual-training teacher might help put them across. May¬ 
be the town paper would lend assistance in the matter of 
publicity, and with the right backing there should be no 
difficulty in securing contributions from merchants for prizes 
or achievement medals. 

Under the direction of Mr. Charles H. English, Supervisor 
of the Bureau of Recreation, Chicago Board of Education, 
and his staff of playground directors, Chicago’s first city¬ 
wide pushmobile races went over big. Fifteen district races 


PUSHMOBILES AND PUSHMOBILE RACING 


7 


were held with entries of two hundred cars, designed, built 
and driven by boys of public school playgrounds, and thirty 
cars qualified for the finals held later on the lake front. The 
final races were preceded by a parade of cars and their push¬ 
ing teams, headed by a school fife and drum corps, and it 
is estimated that ten thousand people turned out to the 
parade, three thousand of whom followed the cars to the 
course and witnessed the races, a formidable gathering of 
fans. It was my good fortune to be on hand with a camera 
and Fig. 2 in the frontispiece and Figs. 4 to 6, opposite page 4, 
show pictures of several cars entered. From these photo¬ 
graphs you can acquaint yourself with recent developments 
in pushmobile building, not a bad idea before determining 
specifications for your new model. 

RACING RULES 

The conditions which governed Chicago’s playground 
pushmobile races should assist other organizations (maybe 
one in your town) in formulating racing rules, therefore, 
the following regulations are given: 

The Team. Each pushmobile shall have a team of five 
boys, a driver and four pushers, or, as the boys prefer to dub 
themselves, ''mechanicians.” Mechanicians shall push in 
relays each covering one-quarter of the length of the course. 
The length of the Chicago course was four hundred yards, 
therefore each mechanician pushed a distance of one hun¬ 
dred yards. In the diagram of Fig. 7 you will see the layout 
of the course. 

. Pits. At the second turn the pits shall be located. These 


8 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


shall be indicated by chalk lines drawn across the pavement. 
At the pits each pushmobile shall come to a halt, mechani¬ 
cian No. 3 shall relieve No. 2 and before leaving the pits shall 
remove one wheel and then replace it. Judges shall see that 
the replacement is done completely. To make it possible 
to replace a wheel speedily, the builder shall attach one 



Fig. 7.—A Pushmobile Race Course. Four Mechanicians 

Push in Relays. 

wheel with a pin or bolt that can be removed easily. One 
car in Chicago finals had three wheels nailed, the fourth 
bolted. At the pits the mechanician forgot which wheel was 
which, and his fumbling lost his team the race. A mech¬ 
anician must be on to his job. 

Officials. An experienced starter, timer, and judges shall 
be appointed if available. 




















PUSHMOBILES AND PUSHMOBILE RACING 


9 


Prizes. There shall be prizes for the speediest cars, best¬ 
looking cars, cars having the most novel accessories, and the 
funniest cars. There shall be first, second, and third prizes. 
The main purpose of the novelty cars is to add circus atmos¬ 
phere to the parade. 

Car Specifications. Each car shall be of the lightest con¬ 
struction possible, and shall be patterned after a make of 
automobile. It shall have a substantial hood, steering 
wheel, seat, and tail piece. It shall be painted with name 
upon one side. ' 



A HUNDRED or more reader-built pushmobiles have come 
to my attention, yet no two alike, which goes to show the 
innumerable ways materials may be shaped to make a model, 
and proves the point that you fellows use your heads as well 
as your hands when at work. After all, it is not so much 
what you do to materials as what they do to you that 
counts, and if these handicraft books and articles that 
are prepared for you get you into the habit of thinking 
for yourself, and of using your ingenuity to devise new 
ideas, improve upon some one else’s ideas, or make new 
applications of old ideas, they have in a large way answered 
their purpose. 

When dad is in the market for a new car, he spends con¬ 
siderable time looking into specifications before making a 
purchase. Take a pointer and do some shopping for ideas on 
your own account before deciding upon plans for 

YOUR NEXT-YEAR^S-MODEL ROADSTER 

Look over the field, see what other pushmobile builders 
are doing, then set to work to design something that will 
have them beaten. Figure 2 in the frontispiece and Figs. 


10 



















LATE-MODEL PUSHMOBILES 


II 



Fig. 8 .—A Late Model Roadster. 



4 to 6 facing page 4 show several late models, at least late 
at this writing, and Fig. 8 is an up-to-date roadster. 

Chapter I treats of pushmobile construction in general. 
This and the following pages describe 


































12 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


THE roadster’s CONSTRUCTION 
Figure 9 shows a detail of 

The Chassis and body framework. The parts are lettered, 
and you will find detail drawings of them in Figs. lo to 17 
similarly lettered. The reach plank {A) is a plank 1}^ inches 

thick and 6 inches wide. Six feet is a good length. Axle 
Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 



bolster blocks B (Fig. 10) should be 6 inches long, axle bars 
C (Figs. II to 14) should be 3 or 4 inches shorter than the 
axle rods. Cut these out of a piece of 2-by-4. 






























LATE-MODEL PUSHMOBILES 


13 


Spike the front bolster to the reach plank i inch from one 
end, and the rear bolster about 8 inches from the other end. 
Pivot the front axle bar at its center by means of a carriage- 
bolt long enough to run through it, through the bolster block 
and the reach plank (Figs. 10 and ii). Spike the rear axle 
bar to its bolster block. Figures 13 and 14 show how to 
staple the axle rods to the axle bars. Lacking staples, drive 
nails alongside the rods and bend them over the rods. 

The Body. Build the seat and back out of the pieces H 
and / (Figs. 9 and 16), and build a box on the rear of the 
body with pieces /, K and L (Figs. 9 and 17). 

Crosspiece D (Fig. 10) is a 2-by-2 footbar. Crosspieces 
E and F are supports for rib-bands G, to which ribs if, Nj 
and O are nailed (Fig. 9). 

The Hood has ribs made of barrel-hoops or lattice strips. 
If the latter are used, bend them into hoops as shown in Fig. 
18. Drive eight or nine spikes into a fence or partition to 
bend them around. Soak the strips in hot water, then bend 
them carefully around the nails. The bending must be done 
gradually and gently to prevent the grain from snapping. 
To obtain a streamline design, make front hoop M of smaller 
diametef than rear hoop 0 , and middle hoop N in proportion 
(Fig. 9). You may bend all three hoops of the diameter of 
M, then change the diameter of hoops N and 0 when fasten¬ 
ing them to strips G. 

Cover the top and sides of the hood framework with canvas, 
The Radiator with a piece of screen wire, or wire having a 
^-inch mesh, if you can get it. Tack the wire to the frame¬ 
work as shown in Fig. 19, then finish the edges with a binding 
of tin. 


14 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Steering Gear. ' Get a sewing-machine wheel or 
wagon wheel for a steering wheel P (Figs. 9 and 20), and use 


Fig. 18 



Fig. 19 




Fig. 20 


Fig. 22 


Fig. 21 


Figs. 18 and 19.—Details of Hood and Radiator Front. 
Figs. 20 and 22. —Details of Steering Gear. 

Fig. 23. —Tin Can Headlight and Bracket. 


a piece of iron pipe or a broom handle for a post {Q). Bore 
a hole through reach plank A for the post to stick through. 

























































































LATE MODEL PUSHMOBILES 


IS 

Cut the disk blocks Rj S and T (Figs. 21 and 22), next, R, 
3 inches in diameter S 5 inches and T 2,}^ inches, and fasten 
block R to post Q in the proper place to rest on block E and 
keep the post at the correct height, and nail or screw blocks 
5 and T together for the spool on the lower end of the post. 
Pass a piece of clothesline or jack chain around the spool, 
as shown in Fig. 20, run the ends through a pair of screw-eyes 
screwed into the under side of strips G, and tie to the ends 
of the front axle rod. 

Lamps. Make a pair of lamps out of lard pails and mount 
them upon brackets cut like block U (Fig. 23). 



Fig. 24.—A Racing Car with Torpedo Body. 


A RACING CAR WITH TORPEDO BODY 

Possibly you will prefer a pushmobile of this type. A 
good-looking model is shown in Fig. 24. Figure 25 is a 
detail of the completed chassis and body framework and 
Figs. 26 to 34 are details of the chassis, radiator and horn. 
Modify these as you see fit. 

The Chassis. To carry out the design illustrated, make 






















16 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

side rails A (Fig. 26) of 2-by-2s 6 feet long, bolster 5 of a 
piece of 2-by-4 20 inches long and bolster C of a piece of 
2-by-2 20 inches long. Bolt bolster B to the rear ends of 
rails A, and bolster C 4 inches from the forward ends. 

The Wheel Axles should be bolted in place if drilled for 
bolts; otherwise staple them with three or four staples to an 
axle (Fig. 27), or with nails driven alongside of them and 
bent over. Fasten the rear axle to bolster the front axle 
to bar D (Fig. 29). Pivot the axle bar D to crosspiece C 



Fig, 25.—Chassis and Body Framework. 

with a king-bolt, for which bore hole through the center of 
the length of both pieces (Figs. 26 and 29). The bolt head 
must be countersunk in the under side of the axle bar, so the 
axle will lie flat across it. Use a ^-inch carriage bolt 5 
inches long, and place washers between axle bar D and 
bolster C, and below the nut. 

For Disk Wheels cut disks of galvanized iron or other 
sheet metal of the right diameter to fit inside the wheel rims, 
cut center holes for the hubs to slip through, and punch holes 





































LATE MODEL PUSHMOBILES 


17 


for rivets or screws (Fig. 31). If the wheels have wire spokes, 
locate the holes so copper washers can be riveted against 
the inside of the spokes; if wooden spokes, locate the holes 
so screws can be driven through the disks into the spokes. 

Fig-32 Fig. 31 Fig. 34 Fig. 33 



Fig. 27 Fig. 29 Fig. 28 

Figs. 26-30. —'Details of Chassis. Fig. 32. —Radiator Front. 

Fig. 31. —Disk for Wheels. FiGs. 33 and 34. —Details of Tin Can Horn. 


Unless you use smaller front wheels and a deeper bolster 
than those of the model illustrated, you must make provision 
for turning the wheels, that they may not strike the chassis. 
Note how this is taken care of by cutting away a section of 
side rails A, then splicing the rails by bolting plates E to 
their tops (Fig. 25), forming pockets as it were for the wheels 

































































































i8 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

to turn into. Make the plates about 24 inches long, or the 
length of the hood. 

The Hood. Build hood ends F and G of boards, rounding 
the tops as shown. Make center rib H oi barrel hoop or 
lattice strip, and cut away the sides of plates E so its ends 
will set flush. 

Use a piece of iron pipe or broom-handle for 
The Steering Wheel Post {K, Fig. 29), and drill it and the 
wheel hub for stove-bolts for bolting the wheel to the post. 
Make the spool for the steering cable of three wooden disks, 
two 5 inches in diameter (L, Fig. 30) and one 3^ inches in 
diameter (M). Bore center holes of the diameter of the 
post. Screw or nail the disks together with the small one 
in the center. Bore a hole through cowl end F of the hood 
for the steering post to run through, and another in strip 7 , 
fastened between the uprights of rib TT, for the end of the 
post to turn in. Slip the steering post into place, and drive 
pins through it at the right points to keep it in position. 

Use a piece of sasli cord for 

The Steering Cable (TV, Fig. 29). Loop it over the spool on 
the steering post as shown and run its ends through the 
screw-eyes screwed into the side of rails A in line with the 
spool, then over to screw-eyes screwed into axle bar D near 
its ends. 

The Seat. Nail a 12-inch board to rails A 12 inches back 
of the hood for a seat ( 0 , Fig. 25), and bolt crosspiece P to 
the under side of the rails where shown for a footbar. 

The Rear Framework is built of barrel hoops or lattice 
strips bent to form the ribs ( 7 , 7 ?, and S (Fig. 25). Let the 
ends of ribs Q and R into side rails A —that is, cut away the 


LATE MODEL PUSHMOBILES 


19 


rails so the rib ends will set in flush with the rails. Connect 
the ribs with the rib-bands T. Round the end of the frame¬ 
work with wire loops U fastened to rib 5 , to form a nose. 

The best way 

To Enclose the Body Framework is with sheet metal, but a 
cheaper method is to use box cardboard, then a covering of 
canvas. Thin box boards may be used for straight por¬ 
tions, such as the hood. If you use cardboard, fill out low 
places with newspaper. 

Complete the Hood by fastening a piece of wire cloth 
with ^-inch mesh to its radiator front, then binding its 
edges with tin, as shown in Fig. 32. Make a radiator cap of 
a small can cover. 

A Horn is easily made (Figs. 33 and 34). It requires a 
tin can (A), a ^-inch carriage bolt 4 inches long (B), two 
nuts (C) and a screen-door spring (Z>). To assemble, punch 
a hole through the center of the can bottom with the end of 
the bolt. Double the screen-door spring and run the ends 
through pairs of holes punched in opposite sides of the can 
J/2 inch apart and i inch from the can bottom. Wire the 
spring ends together to keep them from pulling through the 
holes. Slip the bolt through the can bottom, screw the pair 
of nuts on to its ends, and lock the spring between them. 

Mount the horn upon the cowl. As the can bottom be¬ 
comes the diaphragm of the horn, cut a hole for the can to 
fit in and fasten it in this hole. It is unnecessary to explain 
that the horn signal is produced by the bolt threads scraping 
against the edges of the hole in the can bottom each time 
the bolt is pushed in by the hand and pushed out by the 
springs. 


20 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Headlights and a Tail-light. Use your ingenuity to de¬ 
vise these out of tin cans and pans. Suggestions for them 
are given in Chapter I, and a tin-can headlight is shown in 
Fig. 23 of this chapter. 

Painting. Of course you will want a good paint job, and 
the way to obtain one is to apply two coats of oil paint, 
puttying nail holes, cracks, and defects after the first coat 
has dried, then add a coat of auto enamel. If you are handy 
with the brush you can turn out a job that would be a credit 
to a body-finisher. 

It is not a far step from a pushmobile to 

A MOTOR CAR 

of the type shown in the photograph of Fig. 35, and when a 
fellow graduates into long trousers and feels overgrown for 
the perambulator type of car, it is natural that he become 
ambitious to own a rig with a ^^peppy’’ motor. It is one 
thing to want and another to possess, and getting a suitable 
motor is a problem. Cleage Field, builder of the car in the 
photograph, used a motorcycle engine. Notice how cleverly 
he installed it upon a pushmobile chassis, with a pushmobile 
type of steering gear. The gas tank is placed forward of 
the cowl, the storage battery back of the seat, the driver’s 
seat is one borrowed from a tricycle, the hood is of grocery 
box boards. With an engine in hand and the suggestions in 
this and the preceding chapter to guide you, I am certain 
that you could build as good a motor car as this; indeed, a 
classier chassis, body and all. 




Fig. 35.—It is not a Far Step from Pushmobile to Motor-Car. 


(See Chapter III.) 


The Scooter is Speedier Than the Pushmobile. 










A TYPE of home-made vehicle quite as popular as the push- 
mobile is the rig having two wheels placed tandem. This 
car is pushed and steered by the driver, and has several 
advantages over the pushmobile, among them simpler con¬ 
struction and greater speed. The first scooter models had 
roller-skate wheels. You will find a chapter on them, 
^‘Skatemobiles,’’ in my book ‘‘The Handy Boy.’’ Now, we 
have a lighter and consequently speedier rig in 

THE TWO-WHEEL SCOOTER 

shown in the photograph of Fig. 36, facing page 20 and since 
the boys who have tried out my model have declared it the 
best ever and are building scooters like it, I am certain you, 
too, will want one. 

The Reach Plank {A, Fig. 37) is a piece of 2-by-4 32 inches 
long (Fig. 38). One end is slotted to form a pocket for the 
rear wheel. The size of this slot is shown in the diagram. 
After marking it out, saw along the sides, cut away the wood 
between the saw-cuts with a chisel and smooth up the sides 
of the slot. 

The Pivot Post mounted on the forward end of the runner 
plank {B) is a piece of 2-by-4 of the dimensions shown in 















22 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 




E. 


Fig. 39. This post is slotted at the top for a distance of 
2^ inches and at the bottom for a distance of 4^ inches. 
A saw cut will be a wide enough slot. Locate these cuts at 
the exact center of the ends and edges of the post, and saw 
exactly on the lines. These slots are provided to receive 

hinges F (Figs. 37 and 41), which join 
post B with steering post D. Spike the 
end of runner plank A to the bottom of 
post Bj then brace with an iron shelf 
bracket (C, Figs. 37 and 40). 

Cut the Steering Post D (Fig. 37) by 
the pattern shown in Fig. 42. The 
lower end of this post is slotted to form 
a wheel pocket of the same size as that 
cut in the runner plank. From the end 
of this pocket, saw a slot ii^ inches 
long to receive the ends of hinges F. 


[lb 



Fig. 37. —This Side View of the Scooter Shows All the Parts. 


It will not be necessary to make the long saw-slots if you 
own a small bit. Instead, bore a pair of holes at the right 
distance apart to accommodate the hinge, and split out the 
wood between the holes with a chisel. 

Handle Bar E (Fig. 37) is a piece of 2-by-4 with its ends 
tapered as shown in Fig. 43. Spike it to the top of steering 
post D. A pair of 2-by-2-inch iron angle braces screwed to 

















































A SCOOTER AND A COASTER 


23 


the steering post and to the under side of the handle bar will 
be a desirable reinforcement. 

Hinge the Steering Post with a pair of 3-by-6-inch iron 


Fig. 43. 



^ -32’‘- 

Fig. 42 Fig. 38 


Fig. 38.—Reach Plank of Push Car. 

Figs. 39-41.—Details of Pivot Post and T-Hinge. 
Fig. 42.—Steering Post. 

Fig. 43.—Handle Bar. 

Figs. 44-47.—Details of Wheels and Bearings. 


T-hinges (F, Fig. 41). Fasten the long flaps in the slots of 
post B with two screws inches long, and the short hinge 
flaps in the slot in steering post D with three screws 3 inches 
long. The holes must be located to come exactly opposite 





































































































24 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


the holes in the hinges, and they must be bored straight so 
they will meet the hinge holes. 

The Wheels are wooden disks 5 inches, in diameter (Fig. 
44). If you have a hand bracket-saw, you can cut out the 
wheels exactly on thi line of their circumference. If not, 
cut with whatever saw you have, cutting a trifle outside the 
line, then finish to the line with a chisel. Sandpaper the 
edges smooth. 

Buy a pair of ^-inch carriage-bolts 4^ inches long, for 
wheel axles, also eight iron washers to fit the bolts (Fig. 45). 
Bore the axle holes through the wheel centers of the right 
diameter for the axles. The wood wheel centers would wear 
away on the iron unless protected by metal. A simple way 
to protect them is to tack a piece of tin cut from the end of 
a tin can (Fig. 46) over the center of both faces of the wheels, 
then punch a hole through the tin, and turn in the tin around 
the edge of the axle hole (Fig. 47). In mounting the wheels, 
place an iron washer next to the bolt-head, one each side of 
the wheel and one next to the nut. 

Painting. Most boys do not bother painting simple 
rigs like this, but paint adds so much to the appearance 
that it is decidedly worth while to apply a couple of 
coats. 


A COASTER, HAND CAR, OR BICYCLE TRAILER 

Propelling and steering one’s self along a sidewalk while 
balanced upon the coaster is accomplished with the hands 
or with sticks. Figure 48 shows how it is done with the 
hands. Racing with other boys is only part of the fun to be 
had with the coaster. It is excellent for coasting down 


A SCOOTER AND A COASTER 25 

toboggan slides without snow, and sloping pavements, and 
you may hitch it behind a bicycle for a trailer. 



Fig. 48.—A Coaster, Hand Car, or Bicycle Trailer. 



Fig. 49.—The Completed Coaster. Fig. 50. —Plan of Coaster. 


The Parts are four in number, one roller-skate for wheels, 
and three boards, one 4 inches wide and 20 inches long for 
reach A , one 6 inches wide and 12 inches long for seat B and 



















































26 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


one 4 inches wide and 12 inches long for foot support C 
(Fig. 49). Nail or screw pieces B and C across the ends of 
A at right angles to it. If you use nails, drive them through 
the pieces and clinch upon the under side. 

For the Wheels separate a roller-skate as shown in Fig. 
50, and fasten the two parts to the ends of reach A. Cut 
away the end to which you fasten the rear half of the skate, 
to receive the projecting heel plate. Use the strap and toe- 
clamp to fasten the halves to reach A ; also drive in nails and 
bend them over, as shown to reinforce the connections. 

Push Blocks or Sticks should have pieces of tire tube 
tacked to them to prevent slipping. When you use your 
hands for pushing, protect them with gloves or pieces of 
automobile tire tube, or you will soon have no hands left.*^ 



The sailmobile is the simplest automobile you can build. 
If you have a coaster wagon you can use it for the stern, 



Fig. si. —The Simplest Automobile You Can Build. 

then procure an extra pair of wheels for the bow. But if 
you havenh a wagon you will have to procure two pairs of 

27 

































28 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


wheels and build a frame similar to the rig in Fig. 51 to 
mount them on. I have never found the boy who couldn’t 
get wheels when he wanted them. There is usually a fellow 
in the neighborhood who has pulled apart his wagon, broken 
it, or lost interest in it, and he is glad to sell the wheels, or 
trade them for something else. So if you haven’t wheels, 
look about you. 



The Chassis is shown in Fig. 52, and its frame in Fig. 54. 
After cutting pieces A and B out of 2-by-4S, spike beam B at 
its center to reach A, at right angles to it, about 10 inches' 
from the end of A. Taper the side edges of the bow end 
of A as shown. Bolt side rails C to the ends of beam B and 
to the side edges of reach A. 

The Front Wheel Axle will not be long enough and must 
be lengthened. Figure 55 shows how to make the extension. 
If you have a hack-saw and metal-drill you can do the work 
yourself. If not, go to a plumber or machinist. You must 














A SAILMOBILE 


29 


get a piece of gaspipe of the right diameter for the wheel- 
axle to slip into, and of the length of beam B (D, Fig. 56). 
Cut the wheel-axle in half, slip the halves into the ends of 
pipe D, drill holes through both pipe and axle, and drive 
rivets through the holes (Fig. 55). Fasten this extended 
axle to beam B with staples (Fig. 56). 

The Rear Axle will be of correct length, or will do. Cut 


Fig. 58 Fig. 55 



Fig. 57 Fig. 54 Fig. 56 

Fig. 54. —Detail of Chassis Frame. Fig. 56. —Mount Front Wheels Like This. 
Fig. 55. —Front Wheel Axle. Fig. 57. —Pivot Rear Wheels Like This. 

Fig. 58. —Tiller Bar. 


wooden axle bar E out of a piece of 2-by-4, bore a ^-inch 
hole through the center of its length for a kingbolt, and 
staple the iron axle to it. Bore a ^-inch hole through reach 
A to receive the kingbolt, and get a carriage-bolt of the 
correct size to fit the hole. Place a washer under the bolt 
head, another between reach A and axle bar E and a third 
under the nut. 

The Tiller Bar (F, Figs. 52 and 58) may be a piece of 
2-by-2 or lighter material. Cut it 24 inches long. Pivot it 




















30 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


with a carriage-bolt at the stern of reach A, Screw a screw- 
eye into each end of the bar, also a screw-eye into each end 
of axle bar E, and connect the screw-eyes with clothesline 
or chain (Fig. 52). Tie the ends of another piece of rope 
to the screw-eyes in tiller bar F for a tiller-line. 

Stirrups for the helmsman may be made of a trunk strap, 
an old tire tube, rope, or wire (G, Fig. 52), or in their stead 
you may bolt a footbar across the frame. 

The Mast Step, a detail of which is shown in Fig. 53, is 
built up of a 2-by-4 block H and two upright blocks /. Bore 
the mast hole through block H and through reach plank Ay 
placing the lower hole a trifle forward of the upper hole to 
provide for a slight rake to the mast. Nail blocks I to the 
sides of reach A. 

The Leg-o’-Mutton Sail for the sailmobile requires a mast 
6 feet long (/, Fig. 59), a hoom 5 feet 6 inches long (JY), and 
a gaff 3 feet 6 inches long (L). 

If you can get a rug pole for 

The Mast you will be in luck. If not, shape a mast out of 
a 2-by-2 or tree branch. 

The Spar Ends coming next to the mast must be provided 
with loops of wire or hoop-iron to fit over the mast. Figure 
61 shows how to staple the loop ends to the spars. Screw 
a screw-eye into the other end of each spar, the screw-eye in 
the gaff to attach the peak of the sail and the halyard to, 
the screw-eye in the boom to attach the clew of the sail and 
the sheet to. 

Prepare the block M of the form shown in Fig. 60, and 
screw it to the mast so it will come an inch or so above the 
mast step. This supports the mast end of the boom. 


A SAILMOBILE 


31 


. The Rigging for the leg-o^-mutton sail is simple. There 
must be a pulley at the mast head through which to run the 
halyard, or rope for raising and lowering the sail. A clothes¬ 
line pulley will do. Screw it to the mast head as shown in 



Fig. 59 Fig, 60 

Figs. 59-61.—Details of Rigging. 

Fig. 59. Use sash-cord or clothesline for the halyard. 
Make a two-point attachment on the gaff as shown, then 
run the rope over the pulley and down the mast. Screw a 
cleat to the mast step to fasten the halyard to (Fig. 52). 

Stay the mast with ropes run from the head to screw-eyes 
at the bow of reach A and ends of beam B. Tie the sheet, or 

















32 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


rope for controlling the angle of the sail, to the end of the 
boom and run it through a pulley or staple fastened to the 
tiller bar (Fig. 52). 

The Sail may be made of any old cloth mother can spare. 
Probably there is an old sheet which you can use. A patch 
here and there will make no difference. For the leg-o’-mut- 
ton rig, make the luff, or edge lying along the mast 4 feet 
long, the head, or edge lying along the gaff 3 feet 6 inches 
long, the foot, or edge lying along the boom 5 feet 6 inches 
long, and the leach or aft edge 7 feet long. There should be 
a hem along each edge, and grommets in the head and foot 
through which to run lashings. If grommets are not avail¬ 
able sew small harness rings to the edges. To the luff edge, 
sew rings of a large enough diameter to fit over- the mast. 

Painting. When you have completed the sailmobile, you 
will probably be impatient to try her out. But after a try¬ 
out, do not fail to dismantle her and apply two coats of 
paint to all parts, that the craft may appear shipshape. 



CHAPTER V 


TARGETS 



It was customary for those of us who didn’t own air rifles 
to buy BB-shot and exchange half for the privilege of taking 
turns with another boy’s rifle. I guess the custom hasn’t 
changed much, but the cost of BBs has advanced, and that 
is an important factor these days when one must consider 
the upkeep whether it be for air rifle or airplane. Any 
practical plan for conserving shot should be welcome, and 
as this is the main idea of 

The Air Rifle Target and BB Trap shown in Figs. 62 and 63, 
I am going to tell you how to make it. 

The Target proper is only 6^ inches square, but there is a 
paper background 18 inches square to accommodate the lad 
who ^^can’t hit a barn door.” Every shot striking the paper 
target will pierce it and strike the canvas curtain backstop, 
then drop into the funnel-shaped bag at the bottom, and slide 
into the preserve-jar trap at the mouth of the bag (Fig. 64). 

The Framework for the target enclosure consists of two 
frames built of the i-by-2-inch strips A and B (Fig. 65), cut 
of the right lengths to form a square of 18 inches. Cover 
one frame with wrapping-paper for the target front, the 
other with cardboard. Stand the pair of frames 14 inches 
apart, and tack cardboard across their ends and tops. Then 

fasten crosspiece C across the ends for braces (Fig. 63). 

33 


















34 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 



Fig. 62. —This Trap Will Help You to Conserve BBs, Unless You Are 
One of Those Wild Shots Who “‘Can’t Hit a Barn Door.” 



Fig. 63.—Every Shot that Hits the Fig. 64.—Cross-Section of Target 
Target Pierces it and Drops into the Framework'and BB Trap. 

Trap Below, 























































































TARGETS 


35 


A Canvas Curtain inside the target trap midway between 
the front and back of the framework, and extending from 
side to side, and top to bottom (Figs. 64 and 68), serves as a 
backstop for the BBs and drops them into the trap. With- 


Fig.65 


Fig. 69 


Fig. 70 





OPENING 




CANVAS CURTAIN 
BACKSTOP 

TO BE HUNG AT TOP AND TO 
SWING PREE AT SIPES 
ANP BOTTOM 


Fig. 66 


Fig. 67 


Fig. 68 


Fig. 65. —Frames for the Target 
Enclosure. 

Fig. 66. —Paper Front of Target. 


Fig. 67.—Preserve Jar Trap. 

Fig. 68.—Canvas Curtain Back Stop. 

Figs. 69 and 70.—A Standard Target Sheet. 


out this, the BBs would strike the cardboard on the back of 
the framework, and either go through it, or be so flattened . 
by the impact that they could not be re-used in an air rifle. 
Hang the curtain at the top, allowing it to swing free at the 
sides and bottom^ 











































36 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Any cloth mother can spare will do for the bag above 
The Trap. Fit and tack it around the bottom of the frame¬ 
work as shown in Figs. 63 and 64. A pint-size screw-top 
preserve jar is large enough for the trap. Figure 67 shows 
how to cut an opening through the screw top. If the’top 
is lined with porcelain, break out this lining. When you 
have cut this opening, slip the screw top into the mouth of 
the bag and fasten the cloth to it with wire or twine. This • 
done, the jar can be screwed into the cap. 

Suspend the Target from a tree limb. Screw screw-eyes 
into the center of the top of the front and back frames and 
attach wire or rope hangers to them. Attach a rope to one 
of the side crosspieces C (Fig. 63) by which to swing the 
target. 

A Standard Target Sheet is shown in Fig. 69, and dimen¬ 
sions for laying it out are given in Fig. 70. If you want to, 
you may describe circles halfway between those shown upon 
the diagram, thus doubling the number of rings. Prepare 
a number of sheets so you will always have a fresh one to 
replace one filled with holes. Either paste the sheet upon 
the target frame, or fasten it with strips of gumyned paper 
or adhesive tape lapped over the corners. The adhesive-tape 
method is best, as the tape can be used over and over again. 

A Backstop. Take the precaution to see that there is a 
wall, fence or earth embankment to stop shots which go 
wide of the target. And be as careful in handling your air 
rifle as you expect to be some day when you come intb pos¬ 
session of a he-man gun. 


TARGETS 


37 


THE REVOLVING TARGET 

shown in Fig. 71 is similar to those you have seen in shooting 
galleries. There is not much work to making and setting it 
up. 





,AW/< 




j!' 








‘ v.f ■ i 








Fig. 71.—A Revolving Target Similar to Those 
of Shooting Galleries. 


The Target is 18 inches in diameter, built of two pieces of 
board (A, Fig. 72) fastened together with battens nailed 
across the back (B). After battening the boards, describe 
a circle 18 inches in diameter, saw out along the circumfer¬ 
ence, and finish the edges with a plane or file. 

Paint the Target Rings upon the wood, or upon a facing of 











































38 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


cardboard tacked to the target. Make rings of equal width, 
and paint the center, third and outside rings black, the 
intermediate rings white. If you paint the rings upon the 
wood, give the surface two coats of white paint, then mark 
out the rings and fill in the black. 

The Revolving Pipes upon the circumference of the target 
(Fig. 73) are not of clay like those of shooting gallery targets, 
but of cardboard, which is just as good for target practice. 
An expert marksman can clip the bowls from their stems in 
one, two, three order, with no apparent effort. See how 
expert you can become in hitting the cardboard pipe stems. 
Make the cardboard stems i inch or so longer than the 
regular length (Fig. 74), and fasten them by tacking to the 
back of the target, or by slipping them between the target 
and its cardboard facing, if such has been provided, and 
tacking. 

A Pulley Wheel is mounted upon the back of the target. 
This is built of the three circular pieces C and D (Figs. 75 
and 76). Cut pieces C out of a lo-inch board, center piece 
D out of an 8-inch board. Bore a ^-inch hole through the 
center of each piece, also through the target; then nail the 
three pieces together so the holes come exactly over one 
another and nail to the center of the back of the target. 

Mount the Target upon a board (£, Fig. 77) with a 
inch carriage bolt 6 inches long. Place a nut and washer 
each side of board E, and screw the nuts tight against the 
board. Allow enough space between the inner nut and 
bolt head so the target will revolve freely. 

If you fasten the target to a fence, nail board E to the 
fence. If you use the rail side of the fence, cut board E 


TARGETS 


39 


Fig. 79 



Fig. 77 Fig. 73 Fig. 74 

Fig. 72. —Detail of Target. 

Figs. 73-74.—Cardboard Fipes for Target Rim. 

Figs. 75-79.^—Pulleys, Crank, and Belt for Revolving Target. 



































40 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


long enough to reach from rail to rail (Fig. 71). There must 
be a backstop above the target so there will be no chance of 
wild shots going over the fence, and large cracks and knot 
holes must be plugged. 

The Revolving Device consists of a pulley wheel like the 
one fastened to the back of the target, with a spool pivoted 
to one face for a crank handle (Fig. 78). Pivot this pulley 
far enough from the target so the operator will be out of 
range of wild shots. Belt one pulley to the other with 
clothesline. Pass the rope twice around the target pulley 
(Fig. 79), then straight to the other pulley or crossed as 
shown in Fig. 71. 



Boys are attempting and accomplishing things to-day that 
used to be marveled at, and never dreamed of as possible for 
others than professionals. One of the specialties in point 
is stilt-walking. Of course, there was a boy in every neigh¬ 
borhood fairly expert at stilt making and walking, but if I 
remember rightly he was not looked up to because of his 
feat, though he made it embarrassing for the rest of us who 
knew we were just as clever as he, even if we did not demon¬ 
strate it. But objects of envy came to town with the circus, 
and held forth at the county fair. Along side of our local 
‘^expert’’ these high-stepping stilt-walkers were as giants to 
a pygmy, and they possessed, in addition, the grace and skill 
of acrobats. What mystified us most about these long- 
legged performers was that we couldn^t determine where the 
stilts ended and the man began. Indeed, the stilts seemed 
a part of them, so weU were they strapped on and so com¬ 
pletely were they covered by the long trousers which ended 
in a pair of large shoes. 

A few months previous to the time of this writing, I 
attended a ^'kid'^ circus heralded as ''Chicago’s Greatest 
13-Ring Circus,” presented under the auspices of the Bureau 
of Recreation of the Board of Education, and participated in 

by some five hundred boys and girls of playground centers. 

41 
















42 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The program included almost everything to be found in 
sawdust arenas, and three stilt-walkers were outstanding 
features. Fortunately I had a camera in hand and obtained 
a photograph of the trio, and this is presented in Fig. 8o that 
you may see for yourself the possibilities of home-made 
stilts. 

At the left of the photograph is a specimen 7 feet 6 inches 
tall from crown to wooden toe. Perfectly balanced, the 
result of long practice, his is a natural pose. In the center, 
we have a 12-foot giant, lacking much of the interest of the 
shorter performer, because of the arm stilts which engage 
his hands. At the right is another specimen 10 feet 6 inches 
tall, with leg-strapped stilts, and a tailored outfit of which 
any giant would be proud. The photographer was entirely 
responsible for this performer’s ungraceful pose which ap¬ 
parently made him conscious of his long legs and their 
precarious position. Working-drawings and instructions 
for making hip stilts are given in this chapter, but do not 
become too ambitious at the start of your stilt-walking 
career. First build and practise on 

A PAIR OF HAND STILTS 

like those shown in the photograph of Fig. 82. These stilts 
have just five adjustments (Fig. 83), the lowest 18 inches 
above the ground, the top 3 feet. As soon as 3-foot stepping 
becomes too tame for you, donate your stilts to a beginner 
and make another pair of a length to suit your fancy. 

The Material for stilt-making must be strong, therefore 
will not admit of knots or cracks. Clothes-poles used to be 
made of stout-enough stuff, and were often used for stilts; 




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STILTS 


43 


but luckily for mother the poles are now of thi*n strips not 
strong enough for the purpose. Strips J/s-inch thick and 



Pig. 83 Fig. 86 Fig. 84 

Pig 83.— Hand Stilts Shown in Photograph of Fig. 81. Long Ones (Fig. 82) 
IMay be Made in the Same Way. 

Fig. 84. —Lay Out Holes for the Adjusted Steps Like This. 

Figs. 85-87 —Make the Steps Like This. 


inches wide, called furring strips may be used for short 
stilts, but long ones will require stouter stuff, inches or 























































44 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


thicker. Stock known as 2-by-2S, measuring inches 
square, is just right and can be obtained at any lumber 
yard. 

Plane all surfaces of 

The Stilt Uprights, and round off the edges of the upper half 
for handles with a drawknife, plane, or file; then smooth with 
sandpaper. Figure 84 shows how to lay out holes for the 
adjustable steps. The distance from hole to hole must be 
exactly the. same as that of the bolt holes in brackets C on 
step blocks B (Fig. 85), therefore before boring them prepare 
The Steps and check up on the hole to hole measurement. 
Step blocks B should be inches thick. Cut them out 
of a piece of 2-by-4. For bolting the blocks to the uprights 
procure four 2-by-2-inch iron angle braces (C, Fig. 86), four 
i^-inch screws and two 2-inch stove-bolts, the screws and 
bolts to fit the holes in the brackets. With a chisel cut a 
recess in the top and bottom of blocks B of the right size to 
receive a leg of the iron brackets (Fig. 85), and fasten the 
brackets in these recesses with screws (Fig. 86). 

Toe Straps are optional, but most boys use them. Figure 
86 shows how to attach them. Nail one end of a strap to 
the end of a step block, and punch a hole through the other 
end through which to run the stove-bolt used for bolting the 
upper step bracket to the stilt upright (Figs. 86 and 87). 
The nails and the bolt will hold the strap securely. Lack¬ 
ing leather straps, use strips cut from an old tire tube. 

When the uprights and steps have been completed 
Finish with Paint or Enamel. Auto enamel is excellent for 
the purpose. A priming coat of oil paint will make one 
coat of enamel sufficient. 


STILTS 


45 


HIP STILTS 

Walking on hip stilts requires nerve, and a reasonable 
amount of caution and good judgment. If you possess these 
qualifications, there is no more danger of your falling than 
of your driving up a tree or into a ditch when father lets you 
have the wheel and throttle of his car. 

Before Milton Olson, the lad at the right of the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 8o, began walking on hip stilts, Mr. John 
Moak, Director of Henry Playgrounds, and designer and 
maker of the stilts, put him through two weeks of intensive 
training. Every evening after school, Milton strapped on 
the stilts and strutted around the playgrounds, first using a 
balancing pole with which to maintain equilibrium and 
confidence and later discarding it. When you grow am¬ 
bitious for hip stilts, you need not make them as long as 
Milton’s, and there is no reason why you should not carry 
a balancing pole, which may be fashioned like a cane, ap¬ 
propriate for any costume. 

The Hip Stilts and their attachments are shown in detail 
in Fig. 88. Notice that the performer’s feet are fastened 
with a strap across each instep, that his ankles are strapped 
to the uprights with another pair of straps, and that a canvas 
belt straps the tops of the stilts to his hips. 

Measurements for 

The Stilt Uprights are given in Fig. 91. Be careful in select¬ 
ing the wood for hip-stilt uprights. The poles must be 
absolutely free from knots and defects, and should be of as 
light material as you can get, not less than inches square. 
You can probably buy a pair of soft pine 2-by-2s at a lumber 
yard. • 



Fig. 88.—How to Make and Wear Hip Stilts Like Those of the Boy at 
Right of Photograph of Fig. 8o. * 

F IGS. 89 and 90.—Trouser Legs of Heavy Wrapping-Paper. 















































STILTS 


47 


There is only one fixed height measurement for hip stilts, 
and that is the distance from the steps to the tops of the 
uprights. This- must be i inch more than the distance 
measurement from the sole of the performer’s feet to his 
waist line. Because this measurement is fixed, the steps 
can not be adjustable. Plane up the surfaces of the up¬ 
rights, remove the sharp edges with plane or file and smooth 
with sandpaper, then put the pair to one side and prepare 
The Steps as shown in Figs. 92 and 93. Notice that these 
are built of three blocks of the width and thickness of the 
stilt upriglits, two 5 inches long, the third 6)4 inches long. 
Glue the step blocks together, then cut away one-half of the 
top projection of the long block as shown. Fasten each step 
to its upright with a pair of ^-inch carriage-bolts 7 inches 
long. Tack the steps to the uprights at the correct height, 
locate the bolt holes as shown, and bore straight through 
the blocks and the stilt uprights. 

The Shoe and Ankle Straps are shown in Fig. 92. New 
leather straps must be used, so there will be no possibility of 
their breaking. Fasten a buckle to the upright, and a strap 
to the outside of the step, for the instep strap, and fasten a 
second strap to the upright 8 inches or so above the step for 
an ankle strap. To the inside of the upright, even with the 
ankle strap, fasten a thick cotton pad to prevent chafing of 
the ankle. 

9 

The Waist Belt is of canvas. Ask mother to make it 
for you. The diagram of Fig. 94 shows how to make the 
belt with eyelets along the ends for lacing, and with patch 
pockets to receive the stilt ends. The performer’s waist 
measurement, of course, will determine the length of the 


48 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


belt, and the spacing of the 
pockets which must come op¬ 
posite the hip bones. When 
the belt is finished, slip the 
stilt ends into the pockets and 
fasten with tacks (Fig. 88). 

Leg and hip stilts can be 
concealed successfully with 
coat and trousers, and hand 
stilts with a cape and trousers. 

Paper Trousers are easiest 
to make. Figures 89 and 90 
show the trouser legs belong¬ 
ing to Milton Olson’s hip stilt 
rig. They are made of heavy 
wrapping-paper 36 inches 
wide, rolled into tubes about 
12 inches in diameter with 
the edges pasted. Several 
tubes are joined end to end to 
reach from the crotch of the 
performer (when mounted on 
the stilts) to within 3 inches of 
the ground, and a cuff finishes 
each leg. Loops of rope sewed 
to the tops of the paper legs 
form suspenders, the loops be¬ 
ing made of the right length 
to slip over the performer’s 
shoulders, the right-leg loop 



Fig. 93 



o 

,1 

In 


U.i 


Fig. 91.—Detail of Flip Stilt. 

Figs. 92 and 93. —Details of Step, Shoe 
Strap and Ankle Strap. 

Fig. 94.—This Canvas Belt Straps the 
Stilt Ends to the Walker’s Hips. 

















































STILTS 


49 


over the left shoulder and the left-leg loop over the right 
shoulder. 

The Coat must be long enough to extend below the tops 
of the paper legs, because these trousers have no seat. 

A Top Hat, derby, straw or any other kind of hat completes 
the stilt performer’s costume. 

TIN-CAN TROTTERS 

are a good form of stilts for small boys and circus clowns. 
The former can use them in making “scent” tracks in mud 



Fig. 95.—Tin-Can Trotters for Small Boys 
and Clown Clog Dancing. 


or snow when playing “Hare and Hound,” the latter for clog¬ 
dancing, racing, and other tomfoolery. 

Figure 95 shows feet shod with trotters, and Figs. 96 and 
97 show how to make them. Cut block A (Fig. 97) of the 
right length to fit inside the top of a tomato can. Then cut 
a block 4 inches wide and 8 inches long (B), and after tacking 
































































OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 



Figs. 96 and 97.—Make the Trotters Like This. 



Fig. 98.—If Picket Fences Are Not 
Available, Try Stake-Walking. 



































STILTS 


51 


the straps C to it, nail block A to its center. Set block A 
in the top of the can and fasten with nails. Straps C may 
be of cloth, rope or an old tire tube. 

Who of you has never walked picket-fence tops, or other 
fence tops with a clothespole or two for maintaining your 
balance? The stunt of 

STAKE-WALKING 

illustrated in Fig. 98 amounts to about the same thing, but 
because the stakes are driven into the ground they are not 
as firm as fence pickets, and you must not bear too much of 
your weight upon the stakes, else they will push over. To 
perform the stunt successfully, you must not make a misstep 
or knock over a stake. 



Casting in concrete is fascinating work, comparatively 
inexpensive, and easy to do. All sorts of things for the gar¬ 
den may be made, and for garden furniture nothing is so 
durable and pleasing to look upon as that of concrete. 

One of the most interesting things one can have in the 
back yard is 


A CONCRETE FISH POND 

You can stock it with goldfish, but fish and other water 
specimens from a near-by stream make a more unique collec¬ 
tion, because these are not found in everybody’s aquarium; 
also there is more sport in capturing specimens than in buy¬ 
ing them at ‘a store, and opportunity to obtain greater 
variety. 

The pleasure the family will derive from a fish pond all 
summer and in summers to come will make it a worth while 
investment. Father’s interest, like yours, will probably be 
in fish. Mother will be more interested in water plants. 
Very good. Fish and plants do well together, so both hob¬ 
bies may be realized. 

The Size of the Pond need not be large. That shown in 

the photograph of Fig. 99 is 6 feet square, but a 4-foot pool 

is not too small. Working-drawings have been prepared 

52 




















Fig. 101.—Form for Concrete Block. 




Fig. 100.—a Concrete Bird Bath. Fig. 102 .—The Cast Block. 



Fig. 99.—Stock your Fish Pond from a Near-by Stream, 

























FISH PONDS, LILY PONDS AND BIRD BATHS 


53 


for the 6-foot pond, but will serve as well for one 
smaller. 

Figure 103 shows the depth to make 
The Excavation. This provides for a bed of cinders 6 inches 
thick, a concrete bottom 6 inches thick and a water depth of 
16 inches. Six inches is thick enough for the walls; there¬ 
fore the excavation for a pond 6 feet square should be 7 feet 
square. 

Forms. Wooden forms are required for shaping the inside 
surface of the walls (Fig. 107). The outer surface of thje 
walls will be shaped by the earth of the excavation, and so. 



Fig. 103.—Excavation for Fish Pond. 

in making the excavation, care must be taken to mark out 
the over-all width and length accurately, and to dig straight 
without undercutting the bank. The straighter you cut the 
bank, and the fewer irregularities you leave, the less material 
you will waste when you place the concrete. 

The Bottom Cinders must be made firm by wetting down 
and tampiug. Make a tamper by spiking a 2-by-8 block to 
the end of a piece of 2-by-4. The cinder bed must be level. 
Test it with a mason’s level. 

When the cinders have been tamped, you will be ready 
To Mix Concrete for the pond bottom. The approved 


54 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


mixture for pools consists of i part cement, 2 parts of torpedo 
sand, and 3 parts of crushed stone. You will need a mortar- 
box to mix in. You will see one in the neighborhood after 
which to pattern it. First, mix the sand and cement in 
proper proportions, dry, then add the correct amount of 
stone, and shovel over and over until thoroughly mixed. 
Pour water into a hollow formed in the center of the mass, 
and shovel over and over, adding water, a little at a time. 



Fig. 104. —Cross-Section of Corner of Concrete Pond. 
Figs. 105 and 106. —Details of Forms. 


until a 'quaky, jelly-like mixture has been obtained. Be 
careful not to get the batch too wet. 

Placing the Bottom. Before shoveling concrete into the 
excavation, sprinkle the surface of the cinders with dry sand. 
Then while you shovel and level off, have another boy tamp 
the material. 

The usual time required for what is known as the initial 
set of cement is one hour. In cold weather more time is re¬ 
quired, in hot weather less. While the concrete bottom is 
setting up, you will have time 






































































FISH PONDS, LILY PONDS AND BIRD BATHS 55 

To Prepare the Wall Forms. Batten 8-inch boards together 
{A, Fig. 106) with three battens (B) placed as shown, for 
two opposite walls. For the other two walls batten boards 
together with a center batten. Fasten the forms together 
with ends lapped as shown in Fig. 105. For braces, cut 
boards C (Fig. 105) to fit between opposite forms, and nail 
them to center battens B; then cut boards D and E to fit 
between boards C and the forms parallel to them. The 
forms must be squared up, then braced with one or more 
diagonals nailed across the tops (F, Fig. 105).. 

Cast the Walls the same day that you put down the bot¬ 
tom, so there will be no joint that might not be watertight. 
After the bottom has set for a couple of hours, you can safely 
lower the assembled forms into position in the center of the 
excavation. Test the top and if it is not level, make it so. 
This is important, for if the finished wall is not level it will 
show up plainly when the pond is filled with water. 

With the forms in position, shovel concrete into the spaces 
between the forms and the earth bank. Do not fill up one 
wall first, then another, but work around the four sides, 
keeping the concrete at an equal level. As you ^shovel 
concrete, have another lad follow and tamp it into a compact 
mass. An end of a 2-by-4 may be used for a tamp. Slip a 
shovel between the forms and the concrete after every four 
or five inches of depth have been filled, .to push back the 
stone and to open a way for the soft part of the mixture to 
run down and fill up or grout the interstices between the 
stones on the inner face of the walls. When the concrete has 
been brought to the top of the forms, smooth it off and leave 
it to set. 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


S6 


Remove the Forms twenty-four hours or more after placing 
the concrete, not sooner, and when you remove them, pry 
the boards apart. Do not hammer, for there is danger of 
cracking freshly set concrete. With the forms removed, 
smooth rough surfaces with a grout of sand and cement in 
I to 2 proportions. 

Reinforcing short 6-inch walls of properly mixed and 
thoroughly tamped concrete is not necessary, but is often 
done. Expanded metal or galvanized wire mesh is generally 



used. A good grade of poultry netting will do. The rein¬ 
forcing metal should be suspended in the center of the wall 
spaces and the concrete tamped down on both sides of it. 

Waterproofing compounds to mix in the batch of concrete 
may be purchased at most material yards, and directions 
for applying accompany them.: Concrete properly mixed 
and placed should be absolutely watertight.; however, water¬ 
proofing takes care of any chance porous places in the work 
of an amateur and the material is worth the slight additional 
cost. Tar applied hot to concrete surfaces is another 
method of waterproofing but is objectionable on the exposed 












FISH PONDS, LILY PONDS AND BIRD BATHS 57 

surfaces of a pool. Where the outside of a wall is accessible, 
however, tar may be applied. 

A Drain is not required for a small pond, therefore none 
was provided for the fish pond. Water can be bailed out 
with a pail, or by siphoning it when you are ready to remove 
the fish and cover the pool for winter protection. 

In emptying my fish pond each fall, I place one end of a 
garden hose in the basin and run the other end through a 
basement window of the house, over to a laundry-tub and 
couple it to a faucet which is lower than the bottom of the 
pool. Then I turn on the laundry faucet, and when the 
water fills the hose and starts to run into the basin, I dis¬ 
connect the hose. The water reverses its flow and siphon¬ 
ing is in progress. A tea-strainer or piece of screen wire is 
fastened over the intake end of the hose to prevent small 
fish from being sucked through. 

Stocking the Pond. First cover the bottom with earth, 
sand, and gravel to a depth of 6 inches or so, then turn in the 
water. In the center place a box or two planted with lily 
bulbs or other water plants. Here and there pile rocks to 
form retreats for the fish, with one or two rocks projecting 
above the water’s surface for a sunning spot for frogs, water 
toads, turtles, etc, and a place, too, for birds to alight. The 
pool will be too deep for birds to bathe in, so place a crockery 
bowl or basin upon a rock for a bird bath. A similar bird 
bath in my fish pond is in constant use during the sunamer 
and early fall. Purchase seaweed from a goldfish dealer for 
food and for a water purifier. Two or three pieces will be 
plenty because it grows rapidly. No other food need be 
supplied, as mosquito larvae and other insect life will be 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


58 

plentiful. Mention of mosquito larvae may suggest the 
possibility of the poohs becoming a mosquito-breeding 
menace, but this is not true. A dozen or so fish will keep 
larvae ‘^fished out.’’ 

OUTDOOR SWIMMING POOLS* 

are gaining in popularity and these fish-pond plans may 
awaken in you an impulse to build a pool in your back yard. 
Such a pool is possible, but it means several willing workers, 
sand, stone, cement and reinforcing metal in quantity, and 
gallons upon gallons of water. Of course, a small pool will 
do for mere splashing about on hot summer days. Half a 
dozen kids have been in my lo-foot fish pond at one time, 
but for general practice, fish, frogs, water-plants, and boy 
bathers are not good company. 

A CIRCULAR POOL 

A small fish or lily pond can be made of a wash-tub, either 
a wooden or iron one. This may be set in the ground as 
shown in Fig. 108 or be placed on the ground and banked up 
around with stones as shown in Fig. 109. 

A wash-tub may be used as a form for casting 

A CONCRETE CIRCULAR POOL 

like that shown in Fig. no. Make an excavation 5 inches 
larger than the tub and 5 inches deeper (Fig. 113). Then 
after mixing a batch of concrete in the proportions given 
upon a previous page, shovel enough of the mixture into the 

*An illustrated pamphlet “Concrete Swimming and Wading Pools” may be 
obtained from Portland Cement Association, Chicago. 


FISH PONDS, LILY PONDS AND BIRD BATHS 59 

excavation to form a bottom 5 inches deep. Tamp this 
down with the end of a piece of 2-by-4 to make a compact • 





Fig. 112 



Fig. Ill 


Fig. 108.—a Circular Pool Made of a Wash-Tub Sunk in the Ground. 

Fig. 109. —Another Wash-Tub Pool Banked with Stones. 

Fig. 110.—A Concrete Circular Pool. 

Fig. III. —Cross-Section of Concrete Pool. 

Fig. 112. —Cover the Corrugations in Sides of Tub with Metal. 

Fig. 113.— Make the Excavation Wide Enough for a S-inch Wall around the Tub. 


mass. After this has set a few hours, spread several thick¬ 
nesses of newspaper over the center on which to place the 


























































6o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


tub. If the tub has corrugations in its sides (Fig. 112), bind 
sheet metal around it as shown in Fig. in, so the concrete 
will not fill the corrugations and make it impossible to 
remove the tub after the concrete has set. Lengths of stove¬ 
pipe opened along the seams and flattened out will do. 

That the inside surface of the pool may be smooth, run a 
trowel around the tub so the thin grout of the mixture will 
run down and cover the stones. 

A CONCRETE BIRD BATH 

One of the simplest things to cast in concrete is a garden 
bird bath like that in the photograph of Fig. 100. The 
photograph of Fig. 101 shows the wooden form with the tin 
wash basin center required to cast the bath, and the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 102 shows the cast block as it appears when 
removed from the form. The basin looks best set in the 
ground with not more than i inch of the block projecting 
above the surface. 

You will find 


A MARKET EOR BIRD BATHS 

among bird lovers of your vicinity, and when you have 
become expert in casting and can turn out the blocks quickly, 
it should be possible to sell them at a good profit. 

The Wooden Form for the bird bath is made in two parts, 
each of the shape shown in Fig. 114. These halves are made 
to interlock and are held with hooks so when the concrete 
has set and the forms are to be removed, it is only necessary 
to unhook the halves and pull them apart. By making the 
form in this way, no hammering is needed to remove the 


FISH PONDS, LILY PONDS AND BIRD BATHS 6i 


boards, and danger of cracking the concrete is avoided, also 
the forms are intact for a duplicate casting any time you 
wish to make one. 

Figures 115 and 116 give the dimensions for boards A and 
B, and Fig, 116 the width of block C and the point at which 
to nail it to board B. Nail or screw board B to the end of 
board H, as shown. Screw a hook-and-eye into block C 




- n- 


C 

* 

b) 

B 




• 5 ^'^ 


Fig. 114 Fig. 115 Fig. 116 

Figs. 114-116.—Details of Bird Bath. 

(Form shown in photograph of Fig. loi.) 

and a screw-eye into the outer face of board A in the correct 
position for the hook-and-eye in the other half of the form 
to hook into it when the halves are put together. 

Select a smooth level concrete floor or walk on which 
To Cast the Bird Bath. Place enough wet sand upon the 
floor to fill the wash basin, invert the basin over it and work 
the basin around until it is packed solid with sand. The 
purpose of the sand is to keep the basin from denting under 
the weight of the concrete. 



















62 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Use the proportions of sand, stone, and cement specified 
on a preceding page for the fish pond. Shovel the mixed 
material into the form with a trowel, and tamp it with the 
end of a stick to make it fill all interstices, that the particles 
may be united into a solid mass. Work a knife around the 
sides of the form to crowd back the stone and allow the sand 
and cement grout to fill in. It is essential to do this to get 
a smooth surface to the edges. 

When the form has been removed, go over the block and 
point up any air and stone holes that may have been left 
in the surface. 



Bird houses have gained recognition as essential features 
of the home grounds, and as a result of the demand for 
different types of houses, the bird-house building industry 
has grown by leaps and bounds. Department stores, hard¬ 
ware stores, sporting goods stores, and seed stores now handle 
commercial lines of houses, and to look at the stocks on dis¬ 
play one might think that the market had been oversupplied 
and that you boys had better cast about for a substitute 
money-earning venture. But nothing could be farther from 
the truth. Home-made houses are quite as practical and 
quite as attractive and in as great demand as any commercial 
houses, and since you fellows can make them of odds and ends 
costing little or nothing and have practically no overhead 
expense, you can afford to sell your product at prices below 
those of competing manufacturers. You have a market at 
your door which should enable you to accumulate a fat bank 
account. 


WREN HOUSES AND BLUEBIRD HOUSES 

are the types most in demand, the former leading in the 

matter of sales. Because they are small and consequently 

require little time and material to make, I would suggest 

that you make wren and bluebird houses your specialties. 

63 






















64 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Your line may include a number of designs of houses. Sev¬ 
eral are shown in this chapter, others will be found in my 
books “Handicraft for Handy Boys’’ and “Carpentry and 
Mechanics for Boys”, and you should have ideas of your 
own for designs. 

Wren and bluebird houses may be of similar design, with 
slight changes in 

Building Specifications. The size of the wren’s nesting com¬ 
partment should be 4 by 4 inches, that of the bluebird’s 5 by 
5 inches, and the wren’s doorway should be ^ inch in diam¬ 
eter, not more than that, and the bluebird’s inches. 

The Height to Place the Houses is the same, from 5 to 10 
feet, with 8 feet a good average, but in the matter of support¬ 
ing the houses, the bluebird gives preference to one anchored 
—that is fastened to a wall, tree or post. The wren takes to 
a swinging house as readily as to one anchored. Face the 
houses with entrances toward the east or south, as birds 
seem to favor these exposures. 

Paint or Stain the houses. Staining is the simpler way, as 
only one coat is required. Shingle stains of different shades 
are to be had at paint stores, and are the best kind to use. If 
you paint the houses, and some customers will probably 
order them painted, you can produce an attractive finish 
by the use of a coat of automobile enamel applied over a 
coat of oil paint. 

Figure 117 shows a photograph of 

A WREN BUNGALOW 

that has served bird tenants upon my grounds for a number 
of years. It has a tomato-can compartment, as you will 





Fig. 117—a Wren Bungalow. 




Fig. 119.—a Bluebird Round House. 


Fig. 150.—A Pigeon Cote or 
Martin House. 

(See Chapter IX.) 


Fig. 118.—a Wren Turret. 









BIRD HOMES 


65 


see by looking at the working-drawings of Figs. 120 and 
122, and board ends and a board roof. Tin cans make good 


Fig. 120 Fig. 121 



Fig. 120. —Cross-Section of Wren Bungalow Shown in Fig. 117. 

Fig. 121.—-Side Elevation of Bungalow. 

Fig. 122.—How the Tin-Can Apartment Is Made Removable for Cleaning. 
Fig. 123.—A Bluebird Bungalow. 

Fig. 124.—Cross-Section of Bluebird Bungalow. 


bird houses. The only objection that has been raised 
against them is that the metal gets hot when exposed to the 







































66 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


sun. One way to get around this objection is to cover the 
can with boards or other material as this compartment is 
covered, or to hang the house where it will be shaded by a 
tree. 

Building the Bungalow is quick work. Figure 120 shows a 
cross-section and Fig. 121a side elevation of the completed 
house, with all necessary dimensions for cutting end pieces Aj 
roof boards B and C and perch sticks E and F. Use 
boards ^ or ^ inch thick for the parts. Roof board C 
must be enough narrower than board B to allow for the 
overlapping edge of the latter. 

Bore the Entrance Hole through one end board at a 
height that will bring it close to the top of the can compart¬ 
ment, as shown in Fig. 120. Bore the holes for perch stick 
E in the right position so there will be about yi inch clear¬ 
ance between the stick and the tin can when the latter is set 
in place, and bore holes for perch stick F yi inch above the 
bottom corner of end boards A. 

Provision for Cleaning the compartment is made by not 
fastening perch stick E. Slip this stick out of its holes, and 
the can drops out of its position (Fig. 122). 

For Hangers screw a pair of screw-eyes into the ridge of 
the roof as shown in Fig. 121. Almost any kind of wire will 
do for hangers, but probably nothing will serve the purpose 
as well as insulated electric wire, which is flexible enough to 
hang straight. 


A BLUEBIRD BUNGALOW 

may be made similar in design to the wren bungalow, as you 
will see by Fig. 123. The roof and end boards are of the 


BIRD HOMES 


67 


same dimensions, but in place of the tin can compartment, 
a wooden floor and wooden sides are fastened between the 
end boards. The cross-section (Fig. 124) shows the con¬ 
struction clearly. 

Cut side boards 11 to fit between end boards A, then cut 
bottom board I to fit the lower edges of sides H. The edges 
of pieces II and I must be mitered as shown to make them 
fit squarely. Nail a pair of small blocks (/) to end pieces A 
to support bottom board /. Then the board can be slipped 
out when you wish to clean the compartment. Screw a 
screw-eye into the lower corner of end pieces H to support 
perch-stick F. 

Hang the House close to a tree branch so there will be 
little sway, or if you wish to mount it upon a post, withdraw 
perch-stick F, and drive long screws through the screw-eyes 
into the post support. 

A WREN TURRET 

The photograph of Fig. 118 shows a wren house that has 
sheltered a brood or two each season for several years, at 
my home at Elmhurst. It has four compartments. Of 
course, only one is occupied at a time, because wrens are 
quarrelsome and know better than to attempt a two-family- 
under-one-roof arrangement. The additional compart¬ 
ments provide for succeeding broods. Sometimes there 
are three broods in a season. 

The Materials required for the wren turret include a 50-lb. 
iron white-lead pail (A, Fig. 125), boards for partitions (C 
and D, Fig. 127), shingles for the roof (Fig. 126) and a tin 
funnel for the peak of the roof {H, Fig. 130). A painter 





Fig. 12$ Fig. 126 

Fig. 125.—Paint Pail for Wren Turret Shown in Photograph of Fig. 119. 
Figs. 126-130. —Details of Partition-s and Roof. 

Fig. 131.—Cross-Section of Turret. 

Fig. 132.—Plan of Turret. 




















































































































BIRD HOMES 


69 


will give you a pail, and the tin funnel and hardware will 
cost only a few cents. The rest of the material will probably 
be at hand. 

The Construction of the House is shown in the cross- 
section (Fig. 131), the plan (Fig. 132) and the details (Figs. 
125 to 130). 

First burn out the dried paint on the inside of the pail, by 
stuffing the pail with paper, then setting fire to the paper. 
Then locate 

The Doorways, four of them Fs inch in diameter, at equal 
distances apart (Fig. 132), a trifle below the center of the 
sides (Fig. 125). Because white-lead pails are made of heavy 
metal, the openings are not easy to cut. If you own a 
metal drill, drill a circle of holes within the marked openings, 
and with a triangular file cut out the metal between the 
holes, and finish the edges even and smooth. If you have 
no drill, take the pail to a garage or blacksnfith shop and 
have the holes cut. It will not cost much. 

Perches below the doorways are made of stove-bolts 
1}^ inches long. Run them through the holes from the 
inside of the pail, and fasten in position with nuts screwed 
close to the outside of the pail. 

Four holes must be drilled for screws for screwing the pail 
to the edges of 

The Partitions. Figure 127 shows dimensions for the parti¬ 
tions of the pail used for my model. If your pail is of a 
different size, make your partitions of the correct width to 
reach from side to side, and from top to bottom rim. 

The Ceiling to the compartments {E, Fig. 128) must be 
cut of the right diameter to fit inside the top rim of the pail. 


70 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


After sawing out this circular piece, plane a 6o-degree bevel 
upon its upper edge, for the roof shingles to rest upon. 

The Roof. Cut circular piece F of the dimensions shown 
in Fig. 128, and bevel its edge at the same angle that piece 
E was beveled, then cut stilt G, nail it to the exact center of 
Ey and mount F upon it with its center exactly over the 
center of E. Screw a screw-eye into the center of F (Fig. 
128), and connect an 18-inch length of heavy insulated 
copper wire to it (J) for a hanger. 

Cut the Shingles of the dimensions given in Fig. 129. 
Twenty-three pieces are required, and half a dozen shingles 
will supply enough material to cut them out of. Mark out 
the pieces so the wide end will come at the thick edge of 
the shingle. Figure 126 shows how to put the shingles on in 
two layers, with the upper layer covering the spaces between 
the lower layer. To space the first layer, first fasten a 
shingle directly over each partition, then fasten two between 
each pair of these, spaced equidistantly. 

When work has progressed so far, apply 
The Priming Coat of Paint. Paint the pail inside and out, 
the partitions on their sides, edges and ends, the shingles, 
and both sides of the tin funnel to be fastened over the roof 
peak. {Ey Fig. 130). 

The Second Coat may be of any combination of colors you 
wish. The model in the photograph has white walls with 
top and bottom rims green, and green roof and perches. 

The Roof-Peak and Hangers. When the paint has dried, 
tack the tin funnel to the roof, then cut a cork to fit the funnel 
spout, make a hole through it for the hanger wires to run 
through (/, Fig. 130) and stick the cork in the spout. 


BIRD HOMES 


71 


Assembling. The house is now in two sections, the parti¬ 
tions and the roof one section and the pail the other. One 
screw driven into the edge of each partition is sufficient to 
hold the sections together. For the annual 
Spring House Cleaning a detail which you should not neglect, 
it is only necessary to withdraw the four screws to pull the 
sections apart. 

Hang the Wren Turret from a tree limb about 8 feet above 
the ground, looping the wire hanger around the limb and • 
twisting it upon itself to make the fastening secure. 

A BLUEBIRD ROUND HOUSE 

The photograph of Fig. 119 shows another of my bluebird 
houses built of a half-gallon size paint pail (A, Fig. 133) 
and a lo-inch wash-basin {By Fig. 134). This house is an 
example of what you can make of most ordinary material. 
Ask a painter to save a tin can for you. Possibly there is a 
worn-out wash-basin about the house, or you can find one 
in a tin-can dump. If not, you can buy a new one for 10 or 
15 cents. 

The Construction of the bluebird tower is shown in the de¬ 
tails of Figs. 133 to 137. The first thing to do is to clean 
the inside of hardened paint, as described in the construc¬ 
tion of the wren turret. The paint will soften quickly and 
then it will be but a moment’s work to scrape it clean. 

Locate the Doorway in the side of the can, halfway be¬ 
tween the ends of the wire bail, its center 3 inches below the 
can bottom. After describing a circle i]/2 inches in diameter, 
perforate a ring of holes inside the line with the end of a nail 
(Fig. 136), then break the tin between the perforations with 



72 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN- 

a cold-chisel or screw-driver, and file smooth the rough edge 
of the hole. 

The Tin Basin Roof {B, Fig. 134) should be connected 


Fig. 133 


Fig. 134 


Fig. 135 


Figs. 133-137. —Details of Bluebird Round House Shown in 

Photograph of Fig. 119. 

to the pail bottom with a screw {D) run through a hole 
punched in the center of the basin bottom^ and through 
the center of the pail bottom, into the block C (Fig. 13.3), 

















BIRD HOMES 


73 


a block cut to fit between the sides of the pail close to the 
pail bottom and fastened with screws driven through the 
sides of the pail into its ends. 

A Perch is made of the wire bail. The bail must be held 
rigid in a horizontal position, and the way to fasten it is by 
driving small nails through the side of the can, and through 
the small tin lugs in which the bail ends turn, then bending 
the nails over the bail (AT, Fig. 137). 

The Floor of the house is a circular board {Ej Fig. 135) 
cut to fit the open top of the pail. The board may be sawed 
out roughly, then planed round and smooth. To fasten it 
in the pail, punch three or four holes in the pail near the rim, 
and drive round-head screws through the holes into the edge 
of the board. 

The Support for this bluebird house may be a wooden 
post set 20 inches or so into the ground, but neater than this 
is a piece of iron pipe, threaded on one end and screwed 
into a pipe floor flange {F and G, Fig. 135). Screw the 
floor flange to the center of the bottom of the house, and 
set the lower end of the pipe 20 inches into the ground, or 
anchor it in a footing of concrete. 

Paint the House and support with two coats of paint. I 
would suggest white for the house and green for the roof and 
pipe support. 


A MARTIN APARTMENT HOUSE 

Martins, the most sociable of house-nesting birds, prefer 
to live in colonies, and the type of house that attracts them 
is one with a number of apartments. Space prevents the 
publication of martin plans in this chapter, but you will 


74 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


find plans in “Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys”, and a 
few suggestions here will enable you to alter the pigeon cote 
shown in the photograph of Fig. 150, facing page 64 of this 
chapter, or the cote shown in Fig. 143 (Chapter 9), to con¬ 
form to the requirements of a martin colony. 

Martin Requirements. The size of the compartments in 
a colony house should approximate 6 by 6 inches. The 
doorways should be 2 ) 4 , inches, round or square, and below 
the doorways, surrounding the structure should be “board 
walks”. The structure should be placed 16. feet or more 
above the ground, and if there a,re wires close at hand suit¬ 
able for perches—telephone, telegraph, electric or aerial 
wires, so much the more alluring will the location be. 

ATTRACTING MARTINS 

Acquiring martin tenants for one’s proffered quarters is 
simple enough, though some bird-lovers never succeed. One 
of the difficulties is 

Keeping Out English Sparrows until the martins have taken 

possession. After the martins are once established, they do 

not take the sparrows seriously. I have had two-thirds of 
» 

my thirty-room martin house filled with sparrows, the other 
third with martins, and fewer hostilities obtained than one 
might imagine. Under a new plan, however, sparrow ten¬ 
ants are now in the minority. 

After cleaning out the old nests and making the compart¬ 
ments tenantable for the nesting season, I cover the door¬ 
ways with pieces of wire mesh hung upon brass-headed 
tacks. These are left in place until after the first martins 
arrive; then I remove one or two. Sparrows immediately 


BIRD HOMES 


75 


take possession, but removing their nesting material is noth¬ 
ing as compared to trying to keep all compartments clean, 
and a few minutes’ attention to this detail once a week is 
sufficient. As the martins arrive in numbers, I uncover ad¬ 
ditional compartments, but only enough to accommodate 
those present, and possible tardy arrivals. The remaining 
openings are left barred for the season, that the unwelcome 
sparrows may not be encouraged to take quarters there. ' 



Most boys at one time or another keep pigeons. This 
always has been a favorite hobby. When the horse was in 
fashion and father had a barn, it was an easy matter to cut 
doorways in one gable end, fasten a shelf below the openings 
for an alighting board, and partition off a room inside the 
loft for roosts and nest boxes. That made an excellent 
pigeon loft. Old barns now in use as garages afford more 
room for pigeon lofts than formerly, because storage space 
is no longer required for feed, but the modern garage build¬ 
ing, usually one story high, offers no opportunity at all to 
house pigeons. As barns are few, the majority of fanciers 
must build quarters for their birds. 

A SMALL COTE 

of the form shown in Fig. 138 is large enough for two pairs 
of pigeons, providing two nests for each pair. Because the 
pigeon hen generally makes a second nest before the brood 
in the first nest are ready to leave, the two-nest pro¬ 
vision is advisable. As the birds multiply rapidly, other 
accommodations may be provided. In fact, it will be 
best before cold weather sets in to build a small coop 
with floor and tight walls that will furnish comfortable 
winter quarters. 


76 
















PIGEON COTES AND A FLY 


77 


Any boards you can pick up will do for 
Building Material. One or two large packing-boxes should 
furnish what is needed^ Each nest of the cote should 
measure 12 inches square, which measurement will give 
you a basis for determining outside dimensions. 



Fig. 138.—A Small Pigeon Cote and Fly, 


Figure 139 shows a detail of the cote with the front re¬ 
moved. Figure 140 shows one of 

The Front Wall Sections. It is important to make the 
front removable because the cote should be cleaned fre¬ 
quently, and whitewashed occasionally, to keep it free from 






























































































78 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


lice. Fasten together the boards of each section with 
battens upon the inside, as shown. 

Cut the Doorways about 4 by 6 inches in size. If you 
haven’t a keyhole saw with which to cut the arched tops, 



Fig. 139. Details of Cote with Front Removed. 



do the cutting with a jack-knife. Provide the sections with 

hooks for fastening to eyes screwed into the ends of the 
cote. 

The Floor boards of both upper and lower nests should 

project several inches beyond the front of the cote for alight¬ 
ing ledges. ^ 




































































































































PIGEON COTES AND A FLY 


79 


Project 

The Roof boards an equal distance. A strip of roofing felt 
or oilcloth will make the roof watertight. 

Of course you will not let your fancy pigeons have the 
freedom of the neighborhood, for neighbors will be neighbors 
and not sharing your interests will object, possibly not 
without good reason. 

There must be 

AN ENCLOSED FLY 

even though it be a small one like that shown in Fig. 138. 

The Framework should have 2-by-2 or 2-by-4 corner 
posts. If you build a small enclosure like that shown, the 
rest of the framework may be of light stuff. A larger en¬ 
closure should be built entirely of 2-by-4 stuff, with as many 
posts set between the corner posts as are necessary to sup¬ 
port the horizontal pieces and provide surfaces to tack the 
netting to. 

Bracing is not necessary for a small fly, except tem¬ 
porary bracing to keep the framework plumb until the wire 
netting is in place. A large fly, however, should have 
diagonal bracing at the corners. 

Use Poultry Netting with i-inch mesh for covering the 
framework and staples for fastening it. 

The Doorway need be only large enough to step through. 
Five feet high and 20 inches wide is plenty large. The 
doorway frame and the door can be built of i-by-2-inch 
strips. Brace the door with a diagonal extended from the 
upper outer corner to the lower inner corner, as shown in 
Fig. 138. 

To Erect the Cote set a horizontal plate between the 


8 o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


corner posts on each side of the fly framework, as shown in 
Fig. 138, on which to rest the ends of the cote. 

NESTS 

Many pigeon fanciers place tin or crockery pans 3 or 4 
inches deep and 9 or 10 inches in diameter in the nest com¬ 
partments, but they are not necessary and you will save 
money if you omit them. To keep nesting material from 
scattering, fasten a strip inside of each doorway. 



Fig. 141 Fig. 142 

Figs. 141 and 142.—Two Forms of Roosts. 


For Nesting Material keep a box of straw in the fly, and as 
A Lice-Preventive Measure place tobacco stems in each nest. 
It is claimed that this is effective. 

ROOSTS 

If you build a pigeon house, or have a pen in the barn loft, 
you must provide roosts as well as nests. There must be 
individual roosts, too. You may put these up in either of 
the ways shown in Figs. 141 and 142. 

The flat board roost is preferable to the pole roost used 


PIGEON COTES AND A FLY 


8 i 


for poultry. It is generally made of two small pieces of 
board (A and Fig. 141) nailed together at right angles, 
and set up to pitch like a shed roof. The pitch causes drop¬ 
pings to slide off. 

The support for the roosts may be a piece of 2-by-2 turned 
so the roosts fit over one edge (Fig. 141), or it may be placed 
flat (Fig. 142) and a block of wood nailed to the side edges 
of each roost (C) to fasten to the support. 

PEED HOPPERS AND WATER CONTAINERS 
> 

The form of hoppers used for poultry, but smaller, should 
be provided for pigeons. Drinking water should be kept in 
a container protected against contamination from drop¬ 
pings, and should be refilled daily. In addition to the 
drinking-water container, keep a large basin of water 
in the fly for bathing. Change the water frequently for 
the good of the birds and to prevent its becoming a mosquito 
menace. 


A SECTIONAL PIGEON COTE 

built on the plan of the one in Fig. 143 permits enlargement 
to accommodate increases in stock, by adding stories. 
Figure 143 shows a four-story cote with sixteen compart¬ 
ments, the photograph of Fig. 150, opposite page 64, shows 
a five-story structure surmounted by a three-story tower, 

with twenty-six compartments, all told. 

% 

Material. If you can get enough boxes with boards of the 
right length, they will do nicely for the walls; but of course 
new boards will make a better appearing building and are 
preferable if you can get them. A post support, and several 


82 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

2-by-4S for a platform framework and braces, will be needed 
in addition to boards. 

I 



Fig. 143.— This Sectional Pigeon Cote May Be Enlarged to Accommodate 
Increases in Stock by Adding Stories. 


Build a Platform 40 inches square, making a frame of the 
2-by-4S A and B (Fig. 144), and flooring it over with boards 









































































Fig. 147 


Fig. 148 




--- 



=■ 


-- M. 


— 


Fig. 149 


Fig. 146 


Fig. 145 



Fig. 144 


Fig. 144.— Plat 
form and Support 


Fig. 145.—Make the Story 
Sections Like This One. 


Fig. 146. —The Top Section and 
Roof Framing. 


Fig. 147.— 
A Wall and 
Doorways. 
Fig. 148. —Lay the 
Floors Like This One. 

Fig. 149.—A Pair of Corner 
I'inishing Strips. 


I 



































































































































































84 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


C. Erect a post support (J 9 ) and brace its base with struts; 
then rest the platform on top, cut and spike struts E in place 
and the base will be ready for the superstructure. 

A Typical Story Section is shown in Fig. 145. The walls 
are built up of boards F and G, which should be of the right 
lengths to form a frame 32 inches square. Cut 
The Doorways two to each wall, 3 inches wide by 5 inches 
high (Fig. 147). 

When you have nailed the frame together, 

Make the Floor of the same size as the base platform (C, 
Fig. 148), making projections equal all around. Cut away 
the corners of the floor as shown, to provide for the attach¬ 
ment of corner strips K (Fig. 149), to be attached after the 
sections have been stacked one upon another, to tie all 
together. 

Figure 148 shows how to cut the corners of the floor. 
First, cut along line marked (line of wall), then along 
line marked ^‘2” (2 inches away from No. i), then along line 
marked ^^3’’ (line of wall), and then along line marked ^^4’’ 
(2 inches from No. 3). 

The Partitions are shown in Figs. 145 a?ad 146. Notice 
that each story is divided into four compartments by parti¬ 
tion H and partitions /. 

The Roof is built by flooring over the top story with a 
platform of the same size as floors C (Fig. 146), fastening 
upon this four jack rafters ( 7 ), then boarding the framework 
over, and laying shingles, or a waterproof covering of some 
sort, on top of the roof boards. 

Assembling. After you have built as many sections as 
you wish, stack them one upon another on the base. Then 


l^IGEON COTES AND A ELY 


85 

take the measurement for corner strips K (Fig. 149), and 
after preparing the strips, screw them to the story sections. 
By screwing the sections together in this way, the cote may 
be taken apart occasionally for cleaning, which is desirable. 

In building the cote shown in the photograph of Fig. 150, 
opposite page 64, make the tower independent of the main 
structure, and fasten its base to the structure with 2-by-2 
iron angle braces. 

Paint the Cote with two coats of oil paint, the walls one 
color, the trimmings another. Whitewash the compart¬ 
ments. 



Snow houses built upon the north side of a building 
remain intact long after most of the snow in the open has 
melted away, as a rule, so it is advisable to select such a site 
for your snow huts if you want them to last as long as pos¬ 
sible. 

No doubt you have seen pictures of 

THE DOME-SHAPED ESKIMO HUT 

of the far north snow lands, and will be interested in building 
a similar structure. The hut in Fig. 151 is of this type, 
though its construction is somewhat different. 

The Walls of this boy’s hut are built in the way you build 
snow forts. Pile up the snow to form a circular wall 30 
inches high, sloping it as indicated. Pack the snow solid, 
smooth off the surfaces inside and out, and level off the top. 
Then cut enough tree branches 4 feet long to form 
A Roof Framework similar to that shown in Fig. 152. 
Set the lower ends of the sticks several inches into the snow 
wall, spacing them not more than 12 inches apart, and bring 
the upper ends together and bind with wire or cord. 

Over the roof framework spread pieces of burlap, carpet, 
and any other covering material that you can find; then 
construct 


86 















SNOW HOUSES 


87 



Fig. 151.—The Dome-Shaped Eskimo Hut. 



Fig. 152. —The Construction Differs from that of the Far North Hut. 


A Snow Roof upon this shaping it like a dome, and packing 
it to make a solid mass. The final step in the construction 
is digging 




























88 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 



Fig. 153.—Mold for Casting Snow Blocks. Fig. 154.—Detail of Mold. 

Fig. 155.—Tamper. 

The Doorway. Make this just large enough so you can 
crawl through comfortably. 

THE SNOW BLOCK HOUSE 

is another interesting structure to build. Snow is molded 
into blocks, and these are then laid up in the same way brick 
walls are built. 








































SNOW HOUSES 


89 



Fig, i' 56.—The Snow Block House. 



Fig. 157.—A Building Forms the Wall, and Boards Support the Roof. 











































90 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A Mold for Casting Blocks is shown in Fig. 153. It is 
made in two sections, hinged so they can be spread apart to 
release the cast block. Each section is made of a side {A, 
Fig. 154) and an end (B) nailed together at right angles. 
The detail shows how an end of one section is hinged to a 
side of the other section with a pair of 2-inch hinges. Block 
C, shown nailed to one section, is a stop for the other section 
to swing inside of. It is provided with a hook, and an eye 
is screwed into the other section for it to hook into. Pre¬ 
pare a tamper like that shown in Fig. 155 for tamping snow , 
into the mold. 

Casting. If you will make several molds, several boys 
can cast blocks while you and a helper build the walls of the 
snow house. 

Figures 156 and 157 show how by 
Building the Block House against a wall, that wall may be 
used for a wall of the snow house. Build the end walls as 
shown. At the head of 

The Window place a board across the opening to support 
the snow above, and over 

The Doorway in the front wall place a board in the same way. 

To Support the Roof, lay boards across the tops of the end 
walls, as shown in Fig. 157. Then pile snow upon the 
boards, several inches thick, square it off at the edges, and 
the roof will be almost as substantial as it looks. Stick a 
length of stovepipe in the snow for a chimney, and the house 
will be completed. 



PART 11 

In Field 


91 






















•• 







Fig. 158.—Boy Scout Trek Carts are Often the Outstanding 
Feature of the Holiday Parade. 



Fig. 159.—The Cost of Building a Cart is Small; the Work is 

Quickly Done. 



Fig. 160.—The Top May be Set up for a Shelter, the Box 
Inverted for a Table, the Running-Gear used 
FOR Hauling Firewood. 











r I 




The two-wheeled covered cart known as a trek cart has 
become the approved vehicle for transporting equipment 
and supplies on over-night hikes. And when the summer 
camp is more than hiking distance, the cart is often fastened 
behind an automobile as a trailer. Indeed, I know two 
lads who arrived at camp with a cart hitched between bi¬ 
cycles, and a canoe strapped to the box of the cart; and all 
had come through without mishap. 

The cart will accommodate all of the ordinary equipment 
of a Boy Scout patrol, or excess equipment of several patrols. 
It is well adapted to the requirements of a few days’ fishing 
and camping. And, since the portable radio set has become 
part of outdoor outfits, the cart is just the conveyance for it. 

The photograph of Fig. 158 shows a covered wagon cara¬ 
van belonging to several patrols of Boy Scouts. Half a 
dozen of these carts, neatly painted in patrol colors, topped 
with their white canvas covers and drawn in single file by 
the Scouts, four to a cart, are most imposing and often form 
the outstanding feature of a holiday parade. 

THE COST AND UPKEEP 

The cost of building a trek cart is small, approximately 

^7.00, and may be met readily by a special assessment of 

93 



























94 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


troop or patrol. Two boys can complete the carpentry in 
an afternoon’s time and the patrol artist needs but parts of 
three afternoons to turn out a*good paint job, including 
lettering. If the equipment is taken care of, and housed 
in the winter, it should last indefinitely. The cart at the 
right of Fig. 159, the original cart of the Boy Scouts of 
Elmhurst, Illinois, which I designed and built seven years 
previous to this writing, has seen much service, yet is as 
good as new. An added coat of paint now and then, of 
course, is largely the secret of keeping a cart in condition. 

THE PROBLEM OF WHEELS 

The first essential is a pair of buggy wheels. If you 
cannot pick up a pair in your vicinity, you wlQ probably 
find what you need by inquiring at a farmhouse. A small 
ad in a local paper brought our boys offers of more buggy 
wheels than they could use. Wheels should cost little, if 
anything. But it is better to pay something for a good pair 
than to accept old wheels ready to fall to pieces. 

BUILDING THE CART 

When you have obtained wheels, remove them from 
The Axle and take the axle to a blacksmith shop for shorten¬ 
ing and drilling. Figure 161 shows the correct distance 
between hubs, also where to have holes drilled for bolting 
the axle to the bolster of the cart. The cost should not 
exceed ^1.25. 

Figure 162 shows a detail of 

The Tongue and Body Frame. Make tongue ^ of a piece 
of 2-by-4, end crosspiece B and handle-bar D of pieces of 


A BOY SCOUT TREK CAR r 


95 


2-by-2, braces C and bolster E of 2-by-4S. The lengths are 
marked upon the diagram. Spike crosspiece B and handle¬ 
bar D to the ends of tongue A, and reinforce the handle-bar 
with a pair of 2-by-2 iron angle braces (Fig. 162). Round 
the ends of handle-bar D with a plane or drawknife, and 
smooth with sandpaper. 

The location of holes for bolting bolster E to the frame is 
given in Fig. 162. The holes in the axle bar will locate the 
end holes in the bolster. The bolts running through bolster 



Fig. 162 Fig. 161 

Fig. 161. —Have a Blacksmith Shorten the Wheel Axle. 
Fig. 162. —Build the Tongue and Body Frame Like This. 


E and the braces C also extend, through the bottom of the 
box, and a second nut and washer are necessary for each to 
fasten the box to the frame. Bore a second hole through 
each brace where shown, for bolts for bolting the rear end 
of the box to the frame. 

The Running Gear will look as shown in the photograph 
of Fig. 168, when the wheels have been mounted and the 

frame is upended. 

The Box (Fig. 163) is of simple construction (Fig. 164), 
with band strips added around the top and bottom. Buy 
12-inch soft-pine boards 14 feet long out of which to cut 
























96 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


ends G and sides and 6-inch matched boards for bottom 
/. In laying out and cutting the end and side boards, be. 
careful to get the corners square and to saw exactly on the 




Fig. 164.—Details of Box. 

lines. After nailing the ends of the boards together, test 
the corners to make certain that they are square before nail¬ 
ing on the bottom boards. 

Cut end band strips J and L of the right length so their 





























































































































A BOY SCOUT TREK CART 


97 


ends will come flush with the sides of the box, and cut side 

band strips K and M to overlap the ends of strips J and L. 
The side bands must be notched to form sockets for the 
hoops of the wagon cover to slip into. Lay these out as 
shown in Fig. 165, with the end notches slanted to give a 
rake to the end hoops. Saw down the ends of the notches 
and split out the wood between with a chisel. After nailing 
the band strips in place, drive an additional finishing-nail 
through lower bands M near the lower edge, at the point of 


3 'J^f 





’ fo ■■■ 


K ~ 




-124”—i-2*— 

14 " 

- irZi— 


r Jcr 

. .. 

M 



i*-3p-2V 

10 ';— iz'-i — 

I 4 "- 

- 

_I0"-^ 2 V 3 |^ 

4 


Fig. 165. —The Band Strips Are Notched to Form Sockets 
for the Top Hoops to Slip Into. 


each socket notch (Fig. 163), to form a bottom to each socket 
to support the hoop end. 

THE PRAIRIE SCHOONER TOP 

The Top Hoops. Buy pine lattice strips inches wide 
for the hoops. Bending them into form is an easy process, 
but the work must be done carefully. Put the strips to 
soak in water, because they must be soaked thoroughly to 
bend without cracking. And while they are soaking, de¬ 
scribe a circle with a radius of 16 inches upon a wooden 
partition or floor, as indicated in Fig. 166, and drive five or 
gjx nails around the circle at ecjual distances apart, and four 

nails below the circle, as shown. 

When the strips are ready for bending, take one and bend 




































98 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


it around the nails (N, Fig. i66), working slowly and evenly 
so the wood fibres will stretch without breaking. When you 



have bent a hoop into shape, tie cord across its ends, lift it 
off the nails, and slip its ends into a pair of the box sockets. 



Fig, 167. —Diagram of the Top Cover. 

You will require the service of mother or sister to prepare 
The Top Cover. With the diagram of Fig. 167 before her, 
she will have no difficulty sewing up the lengths of canvas on 

























A BOY SCOUT TREK CART 


99 


her machine. Buy seven yards of 8-oz. duck, 27 or 40 
inches wide. The material should be cut into three strips 
of equal length, and the strips should be sewed together 
with lapped seams ]/^ inch wide. The two long edges of the 
cover must be turned over to form a ^-inch hem through 
which to run ropes for closing the ends of the cart (Fig. 159) 
and the other edges must be turned over to finish off the 
raw edges of the goods. 

Run clothesline through the end hems. Use a piece of 
stiff wire with one end bent into a loop to pull the ropes 
through. With the ropes in the hems, try the covering 
upon the hoops. Gather the ends as shown in Fig. 159, and 
fasten the ropes to screw-eyes screwed into the inside of the 
box ends. This is all the fastening that is necessary, but it 
makes a neater job to have tapes sewed to the inside of the 
cover to pass around the hoops and tie to screw-eyes screwed 
into the sides of the box opposite the hoops. With the 
cover in place, the proper positions for these tapes are easily 
determined. 


PAINTING 

Complete the trek cart by giving the running-gear and 
box two coats of paint. Use your Boy Scout patrol colors, 
of course. Before painting, go over the work and sandpaper 
all wood surfaces and drive nail heads below the surface. 
Automobile enamel makes a better finish than oil paint. 
It is more expensive, but you need apply it only for the 
second coat, using any good outside paint for the priming 
coat. After the first coat has dried, putty nail-holes, joints 
and defects. 


> "j ' 

) > 

•) ) ) ’ 


100 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


OTHER USES FOR THE TREK CART 

The photograph of Fig. i68 suggests how you may invert 
the box of the trek cart and set it upon stakes driven into 
the ground for a table. This will serve as a dining-table 
and a stand for a portable radio set. You may stick the 
top hoops into the ground and fasten the cover over them 
to form a food shelter or extra tent, as shown in the photo¬ 
graphs of Figs. i6o and i68. And you may upend the run¬ 
ning-gear as shown in Fig. i68, and splice the tongue to 
form 

A MAST FOR A RADIO AERIAL 

Figure 169 shows a compact rig for a tongue extension 
that set up makes a mast 20 feet high. Of course, it is best 
to have two carts so equipped to provide a mast for each 
end of the aerial, otherwise you must use a tree or other 
support for one end. 

To Rig up the Mast first spike the block Q to bolster E 
and hinge the piece of 2-by-2 P to the block. Cut this piece 
34 inches long. Drive a spike into the end as shown. 
With this hinged piece dropped to the position indicated by 
dotted lines in Fig. 169, the spiked end will stick into the 
ground, and the tongue will be braced in its upended 
position. 

The middle length of the mast is formed by the 2-by-2 
bar R (Fig. 170). Fasten a leather or iron strap around the 
tongue near the handle-bar, to slip the mast through (Figs. 
169 and 170), and bore a hole through the mast and tongue 
for a bolt to pin the mast in position. 

Bore a i-inch hole in the mast end 5 inches deep in which 
to insert the topmost member of the mast, a Boy Scout staff 



Fig. 168 .—Knocked Down, the Trek Cart Forms a Table, 
A Shelter, and an Aerial Mast. 













A HOV SCOU'I' TRKK CART 


aerial, 



Fig. 169 


Figs. 169-171. —Details of Rig for Aerial Mast 
Shown in Photograph of Fig. 168. 









































































102 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


or other pole ( 5 , Fig. 171), and notch the staff near the end 
to provide for attaching the aerial wire. 

To Carry the Mast Bar, fasten a strap to strut P near its 
end to form a loop large enough to slip the bar through. As 
you will see by Fig. 169, this loop will support bar and strut 
P, To keep bar R from slipping back and forth along the 
tongue, bore a bolt hole through it near the upper end, so 
that the bolt used to pin the lower end to the tongue when 
the bar is raised (Fig. 170) may be used to pin the upper 
end to the tongue when it is slung, as in Fig. 169. 



The best way to pack your blanket, coat, and toilet articles 
for an overnight hike is by making them into a roll and 

strapping this roll over one 
shoulder as shown in Fig. 172. 
This old army method is used 
by many hikers. But often 
the blanket is abominably 
rolled, and if it doesn’t break 
down before the evening halt 
is called at least it stamps its 
bearer as inexperienced or 
careless. A properly made roll 
is never in danger of parting 
company with its contents; its 
load is distributed over one’s 
back, chest, and shoulder, and 

Fig. 172.—Carry a Blanket Roll Like . , , 

This. it looks trim. 

THE WAY TO MAKE A BLANKET ROLL 

is shown in Figs. 173 to 176. First spread out the blanket 
on the floor, and turn back about 4 inches of each side edge 
(Fig. 173), and 4 inches of one end (Fig. 174). Twelve 
inches or so from the opposite end spread out your coat and 

103 



























104 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


toilet articles (Fig. 175), then roll the blanket into a tight 
even roll. When you have rolled as far as the end fold, you 


Fig. 173 



Fig. 174 




Fig. 175 Fig. 176 

Figs. 173-176.— The Way to Make a Blanket Roll, 


will find that this fold forms a pocket into which to slip the 
roll (Fig. 176). This holds it fast. Bring the ends of the 
roll together, and tie them with a shoestring or piece of rope. 
Swing the roll over your head to carry on the left shoulder, 
as shown in Fig. 172. 

If you carry a poncho, place it upon the outside of the 







































































































Fig. 178.—The Way to Roll a Shelter Half. 



Fig. 180.—A Bike Pack. 


Fig. 177.—a Hike Pack. 



Fig. 179.—a Vest Pocket First-Aid Kit. 












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HIKE AND BIKE KITS 


105 

roll, and do the same with a shelter half when two of you 
carry a shelter tent. The photograph of Fig. 177 shows a 
Boy Scout with his blanket in a shelter half, and the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 173 shows a lad making a shelter half roll. 
Further suggestions for this roll are given in Chapter XXII. 

A HAVERSACK 

of the army type provides for packing all of one^s hiking 
equipment upon the back. Used haversacks can often be 
picked up at stores dealing in reclaimed army goods. Plans 
for a simple haversack are given in ‘‘The Handy Boy.’’ 

If a neckerchief is part of your hiking outfit, you should 
have 

A NECKERCHIEF SLIDE 

You can buy one where Boy Scout equipment is sold, or cut 
a piece of shoe leather or automobile tire tube 1% inches 
wide and 2 inches long, and make two slashes inches 
long in it for your tie to slide through (Fig. 181). But who 
would wear a purchased slide, or an ordinary home-made 
one if 

A TURTLE SHELL NECKERCHIEF SLIDE 

were available? Certainly not on dress occasions. The 
turtle shell slide is one of the novelties our boys bring home 
from camp, and this is the way they make it. There are two 
requisites—^a small turtle, and, quite as important, an ant¬ 
hill. The first thing they do is to kill the turtle in a humane 
manner; the second, to bury him in the ant-hill. Then they 
await the morrow, by which time the ants have rendered their 
service and removed the turtle from its shell, and left the 


io6 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


shell clean—ra perfectly formed tie slide as you will see by 
the front views (Figs. 182 and 183) and the back view (Fig. 
184). The shell must be dried, and a narrow stick slipped 



Fig. 182 

Fig. 181.—A Neckerchief Slide for Ordinary Wear. 

Figs. 182-184.—A Turtle Shell Slide for Dress Occasions. 

« 

through it from end to end to keep the openings from closing. 
When the shell is dry and the stick.removed, the slide is 
ready to wear. 

Have you ever used 

YOUR WATCH AS A COMPASS 

when you have lost your bearings? It is a simple stunt, and 
a good one to know. ■ The sun must be shining, or you must 
have some indication of the point at which it is hiding. 
Hold your watch in your left hand, with the hour hand 
pointed toward the sun, as shown in Fig. 185, then locate a 
point half-way between the hour hand and “12 o’clock,” and 







HIKE AND BIKE KITS 


107 

an imaginary line drawn from the hand pivot through that 
point will extend in the direction of “south.” 



Fig. 185. —How to Use Your Watch as a Compass. 

If you have hiked across fields, you are well acquainted 
with barbed wire. A good provision for such trips is a pair of 

BARBED-WIRE FENCE HOOKS 

to hook over the wires after spreading them, to hold them 
so that you may get through without leaving part of your 
trousers on the barbs. Figure 186 suggests how to do this, 
and Fig. 187 shows a picture hook which is just right for the 
purpose. After entering the field, release the wires and 
pocket the hooks for the next emergency. 




io8 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 



Spread Barbed Wire of Fences. 

A VEST POCKET FIRST-AID KIT 

The first-aid kit shown in the photograph of Fig. 179 may 
be carried in one’s outing shirt, coat pocket, or trouser’s hip- 
pocket. It is just the size kit to take along on a day’s fish¬ 
ing trip, bicycle trip or hike, when you want to go light yet 
prepared for emergencies.* 

The idea for this kit was given me by my friend. Scout 
Executive Earl L. Rice, who has inspired the construction 
of dozens of sets by Boy Scouts and Troops in his Council. 
The photograph shows a kit which I made for my own use. 

One would hardly believe it possible to pack thirteen 
articles shown in the photograph in so small a space as that 
afforded by a tobacco can that measures only % inch thick, 
3 inches wide and 4 inches long, yet that is the t>pe and size 
container used for this kit. With planning you might crowd 
in a fourteenth article. Ointment would be a good item to add. 

The First-Aid Supplies in the vest-pocket kit consist of: 
I 2-inch gauze bandage 5 yards long, i i-inch finger gauze 

* First Aid instructions may be obtained in pamphlet form from Johnson 
and Johnson, or Bauer and Black, or dealers handling their surgical dressings. 













HIKE AND BIKE KITS 


109 


bandage 3 yards long, i i-yard roll of adhesive plaster, i 
packet of court plaster, i iodine applicator, i 34-oz. bottle 
of aromatic spirits of ammonia, 5 safety pins, i pair of small 
scissors and i pair of tweezers. 

You may vary the contents as you wish, omitting some 
items to make room for others. Lacking a pair of small 
scissors, you may use a pair of manicure scissors. Court- 
plaster, an iodine applicator, and gauze-bandage rolls may 
be purchased at the drug store. If you cannot get a 5-yard 
roll of 2-inch sterilized gauze, buy a regulation-sized roll of 
10 yards, unwind half of it, being careful not to touch any 
part of the unwound gauze with your hands, cut off the 
half unwound, and roll up and seal the remainder in the 
original wrapping. You will be able to press the roll into a 
flat enough package to slip into the tin container. 

If neither dad nor uncle uses smoking tobacco, it will be 
easy enough to find some one who does, and, of course, he 
will gladly furnish you with 

The Tobacco Can. The only alteration that one of these 
nicely made cans will need will be refinishing. With fine 
sandpaper remove the paper labels and rub down the print¬ 
ing; then enamel all surfaces with gray or blue enamel. 
Perhaps you can get a dab of automobile enamel. A small 
cross upon each side carefully drawn and filled in with red 
paint will identify the container as a first-aid kit. 

Ask mother or sister to make you 

A MENDING KIT 

like that shown in Figs. 188 and 189. Equipped with 
needles, pins, thread, thimble, and scissors, it will save you 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

Fig. i88 





Fig. 189 


Fig. 190 


Figs. 188 and 189.—A Mending Kit Will Leave No Excuse for 
Missing Buttons or Torn Clothing. 

F'lG. 190.—Pattern for Mending Kit, 






















































HIKE AND BIKE KITS 


III 


from the embarrassment of hiking with lost buttons, split 
seams, or torn clothing. 

Figure 190 shows a pattern for cutting the cloth for the 
case. Eight- or ten-oz. duck is good material to use. The 



Fig. 192.—It Folds Like This when Not in Use. 

dotted lines on the pattern indicate where the material 
should be folded. The pocket in the lower end is formed by 
the bottom fold of the goods, the other pocket by cloth 
patches. A cotton~flannel pocket~front is best to stick pins 
and needles in. Dotted lines in Fig. 189 indicate stitching. 




























112 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The edges of the case should be bound with' braid and a 
glove fastener should be attached to the flap. 

A BICYCLE PARCEL-CARRIER 

Perhaps one of the arguments made in favor of your own¬ 
ing a bicycle was that it would enable you to do errands for 
mother. Anyway, that is an argument put forward by 
manufacturers, and the bicycle certainly does make easier 
the trips between home and stores and saves shoe-leather. 
But when vacation arrives, one associates the bicycle with 
the road, rides far afield, fishing trips, cool plunges in distant 
swimming holes, camping trips. 

Errands and pleasure trips necessitate the carrying of 
packages. Packages require you to ride with one hand on 
the handle-bar unless some sort of carrier to hold them be 
attached to the bicycle frame. For this day of traffic jams 
in congested districts, and of speeding cars in the open 
stretches, by all means equip your wheel with a carrier. 

Parcel carriers may be purchased wherever bicycle acces¬ 
sories are sold, but 

THE HOME-MADE PARCEL-CARRIER 

on the wheel in the photograph of Fig. i8o is easy to make, 
and, when the work is carefully done, is as good as any you 
might buy. 

As you will see by Fig. 191, the carrier consists of a plat¬ 
form board, one end of which is bolted to the bicycle frame, 
the other end supported by struts slipped over the rear axle 
ends and held by the axle bolts. To provide for folding the 
device into compact form when removed from the bicycle, 
the struts are hinged to the platform board (Fig. 192). 


HIKE AND BIKE KITS 113 

Parcels may be strapped onto the carrier, or a box container 
may be bolted to it as shown in Fig. 201. Provide the box 
so you may use either means of carrying a load. 

To Make the Carrier, first prepare platform A of the 
dimensions given in Fig. 193, struts B of the dimensions 

Fig. igg Fig. 197 Fig. 198 Fig. 196 



* > I ■ I ■■ ■ I ■ 

U - 16 "- *1 


Fig. 194 

Figs. 193-200. —Details of the Bicycle Parcel-Carfier. 

given in Fig. 194. The dotted lines on the ends, shown in 
the diagram of Fig. 194, indicate how to trim the struts so 
they will fit against platform A when set up at the angle 
shown. But do not trim the lower ends just yet. Leave 
them one inch or so longer than shown until you see whether 
or not your bicycle frame requires longer struts than those 
used for the model. 



































OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


114 

Struts B are connected by the block C (Fig. 195), a pat¬ 
tern for which is shown in Fig. 196. Bevel one edge of this 
block to the angle of the strut ends. Nail the struts to the 
block ends. 

Blocks D and E (Fig. 191) and a pair of stove bolts F 
(Fig. 199) furnish the means for connecting the platform to 
the bicycle frame. Cut a block of the dimensions given in 
Fig. 197, bore a pair of holes through it edgewise to accom¬ 
modate bolts F, and saw it in half at an angle corresponding 



Fig. 201.—A Box Container May Be Bolted to the Carrier Like This. 

to that of the rear fork stay of the bicycle frame (Fig. 198). 
Slip the bolts through the holes in block D. If they fit 
tightly and must be driven, so much the better. They must 
slip easily through the holes in block E, however, and you 
can enlarge these holes with a rat-tail file, if necessary. 
Screw block D to the under side of platform A, at the center 
of the front end. Notice in Fig. 201 that the beveled blocks 
D and E clamp against opposite sides of the bicycle frame, 
supporting the upper portion of the carrier. 

The lower end of struts B requires an iron strap for making 
connection to the rear wheel hub (H, Fig. 191). Buy a pair 



















HIKE AND BIKE KITS 


IIS 

of ^-inch by 3-inch iron straps at a hardware store, and 
enlarge one end hole of each to accommodate the axle end, 
using a rat-tail file for the purpose (Fig. 200). Screw the 
straps to the inside edge of the strut ends with the axle hole 
projecting as shown in Fig. 195. 

Hinge connector block C of the strut frame to the end of 
platform board A with the pair of iX-by-3-inch hinges G, 

(Fig. 195)- 

When you have assembled the carrier and adjusted it to 
the frame. 

Paint the Parts with bicycle enamel or auto enamel of a 
color to match the bicycle frame. If you wish, you may 
paint the package-box a contrasting color. 

A BICYCLE ROAD MAP* 

If you have ever started out on a bike trip with a newly 
purchased road map, you remember how quickly it became 
mussed and torn. Perhaps it lasted to the trip’s end, but 
more than likely parts were missing. 

For your next trip 

Mount Your Map on Muslin pasting it with glue or mucilage. 
To provide for folding the mounted map into convenient 
pocket size, cut it into sections, and mount the pieces upon 
muslin with spaces of X between. 

The handiest form of map is one showing only the roads 
to be ridden. Cut this portion from your road map, halvfe 
it and mount the halves upon opposite sides of a piece of 
muslin, or, if small enough, upon opposite sides of a card. 


9 ^ 



( 





CHAPTER XIII 


NATURE STUDY COLLEC¬ 
TIONS 





An interesting pastime, well suited to warm weather when 
one seeks activities involving little physical exertion, is col¬ 
lecting and studying insects. And as specimens are usually 
plentiful wherever there is vegetation, it is not necessary to 
go far afield to obtain what is wanted. 

For capturing butterflies, moths and other winged insects, 
grasshoppers, beetles and bugs it is only necessary to own 

A HAND NET 

like that shown in Fig. 202. Such a net should have a hoop 
10 inches in diameter, with a net of bobbinet, marquisette, 
mosquito netting, or cheesecloth, 16 to 18 inches deep. 

The Hoop and Handle. Cut a section of broom-handle 
for thte handle (A, Fig. 203), bend the hoop out of heavy 
galvanized wire (B) and bend the ends into small eyes. 
Bore a ^-inch hole through the handle 2 inches from one 
end, slip this end of the handle between the hoop eyes, run 
a ^-inch stove bolt (C) through the eyes and the hole in the 
handle, and screw a nut on to the bolt. This completes the 
frame. 

Sew the Net yourself if you are handy with a needle and 
thread. Fold a strip of goods 32 inches long and 16 inches 
wide in half lengthwise, sew up the sides, turn over i inch of 

116 






























NATURE STUDY COLLECriOXS 117 

the top to form a hem, and leave an opening through which 
to slip the hoop ends. Remove the handle from the hoop, 
slip the hoop through the hem of the net, then replace the 
handle. Screw a screw-eye into the handle for a hanger. 

Most moths rest by day and fly by night, and an easy way 
to capture them at night is by taking advantage of the 



Fig. 202 


Fig. 203 


Fig. 202.—A Hand Net for Capturing Specimens. 
Fig. 203.—Join the Hoop and Handle Like This. 


fascination of bright lights for them. This is accomplished 
by holding an electric flashlight in one hand and using the 
net with the other hand; but a quicker way is with 


A MOTH TRAP 

similar to that shown in Fig. 204. The best box to use is a 
starch-box because it has a slide cover that does for a door, 







OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 



Fig. 205 Fig. 208 


Fig. 207 



Fig. 204.—Moths Enter this Trap, Fascinated by the Bright Light. 
Figs. 205 and 206.—Details of Entrance Vestibule. 

Figs. 207 and 208.—Details of Lighted End. 


but if you cannot get a starch-box you can hinge a board to 
the top of any small wooden box. 

Remove one end of the box, and in its place fasten a stick 

































































































































































naturp: study collections 


119 

to fit between the’upper corners of the box sides {A, Fig. 
204). The trap entrance is through a screen-wire vestibule 
built into this end of the box (Fig. 205). As a starch-box 
is wider than it is deep, two pieces of wire of the shape of 
piece B (Fig. 206) and two pieces of the shape of piece C are 
required for the vestibule. Fasten the pieces together by 
weaving wire ravellings through the edge meshes. Set the 
vestibule in the box end, bend over the edges of the wire, and 
fasten with tacks (Fig. 204). 

The Lighted End of the box must have an opening through 
which to admit light from a flashlight, bicycle lamp, electric 
lamp, or candle. The light must be enclosed so it will be 
seen only through the trap entrance. Figures 207 and 208 
show how to install a candle light. Cut a hole through the 
side of a tomato can to slip a candle through, and fasten the 

N 

can to the box by running a piece of heavy wire through 
screw-eyes screwed into the end of the box, and through 
holes punched in the sides of the can, as indicated in Figs. 
207 and 208. 

Operating the Trap is simple. Placed in a favorable spot 
with the candle lighted, you will not wait long for specimens. 
In through the entrance they will find their way as though 
drawn by a magnet. After capturing specimens,either kill 
them for preservation or transfer them to a cage for observa¬ 
tion. 

Killing Specimens is easily done with benzine or gasoline. 
A few drops will cause instant death from suffocation. 
Before approaching the trap with benzine or gasoline remove 
the light from the trap unless it be an electric lamp; but, 
better, transfer the specimens to 


120 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A KILLING JAR 

A pint-size fruit-jar with screw cap serves well (Fig. 209). 

While benzine and gasoline are effective for killing most 
winged insects, hard-shelled bugs and the like are better 
dropped into a solution of alcohol or formaldehyde. Cyan- 



Fig. 209.—A Specimen 
Killing Jar. 



Fig. 210.—A Lamp Chimney 
- Observatory 


ide is used by most experienced collectors for dispatching 
specimens, but it is an exceedingly dangerous compound, 
and you should leave it alone unless you purchase one of the 
ready prepared cyanide bottles. 


A LAMP CHIMNEY OBSERVATORY 

furnishes opportunity for studying caterpillars, beetles, and 
bugs. Use a flower-pot filled with earth for a base. Into 

























NATURE STUDY COLLECTIONS 


I2I 


the earth stick a sprig of the plant on which you found the 
caterpillar (Fig. 210) and inclose the sprig and specimen in 
a lamp chimney with its top covered with mosquito netting. 
Nothing better for 



Fig. 211.—An Observation Cage Made of a Shoe Box. 
Fig. 212.—Prepare the Box Like This. 


AN OBSERVATION CAGE 

can be had than the model shown in Fig. 211. Cut a large 
opening in both sides and ends of a cardboard shoe-box or 
other box of that size, leaving a margin of about ^ inch 
around the openings, and fasten pieces of screen wire over 
the openings, tacking the edges with strong linen thread. 





















































































































122 


OUTDOOR BOY CIUVPTSMEN 


The box cover gives access to the cage for introducing 
and removing specimens. So that it will not be raised and 
allow specimens to escape, provide cords for tying. Bind 
the cords to the box with gummed paper (Fig. 211). 

Throw leaves and grass into the box and you can keep 
specimens for observation during their natural lives. 

CARRYING-RECEPTACLES 

to care for specimens immediately after capture may be 
prepared by perforating the covers of tin cans and boxes. 
Place with each caterpillar, grasshopper, or other specimen, 
pieces of the leaves or grasses you found it upon. Then it 
will be little disturbed by the transference. 

A SPREADING-BOARD 

When your butterflies, moths and other winged specimens 
are dead, the first step in preserving them is to pin them 
upon a spreading-board with wings spread so they will dry 
in natural form. 

Figure 213 shows a home-made spreading-board. Cut 
the ends of the rack (^, Fig. 214) of the shape and dimen¬ 
sions shown in Fig. 215. Strips C and D (Figs. 214) are 
pieces of corrugated cardboard. Their length will be 
determined by the length of rack you want. Strip C is 
supported upon a pair of strips B, cut of the size shown in 
Fig. 215 and nailed to end pieces A. - Leave space of ^ 
inch between the inside edges of strips D. 

Drying Specimens. Rule lines across strips D (Fig. 213) 
for guide lines to aid you in mounting specimens symmetri¬ 
cally. The illustration shows how to mount moths and 


NATURE STUDY COLLECTIONS 


123 


butterflies with the body set between strips D and pinned 
to strip C, with the pin run through the body just back of 
the head. Fasten the wings with paper strips pinned across 
them as shown. 


Fig. 213 



Fig. 215 Fig. 214 

Fig. 213. —^Pinned to the Spreading-Board, the Wings of 
Specimens Dry in Natural Form, 

Fig. 214 and 215. —Details of Spreading-Board. 

A SPECIMEN CABINET 

The cabinet shown in Fig. 216 is made of a shoe-box with 
its sides cut down to a depth of 3 inches. The cross-section 
of Fig. 217 shows the false bottom provided for the specimen 
mount. Make this of corrugated cardboard cut to fit in¬ 
side the box, and support it upon four cardboard strips ^ 




















OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


inch wide {B) cut to fit between the sides and ends of the 
box. 

Cut an opening in the cover as shown in Figs. 216 and 
217, get a piece of glass to fit inside the edges of the cover, 




Fig. 216.—A Specimen Cabinet Made of a Shoe-Box, 

Figs. 217 and 218.—Prepare the Box and Cover Like This, 

and fasten the glass with bits of cardboard lapped over its 
corners and stitched to the cover (C, Fig. 218). 

Mount specimens in the cabinet by sticking the body pin 
through an identification card bearing the name of the 
specimen, then through the cardboard mount. 




































NATURE STUDY COLLECTIONS 


125 


AN HERBARIUM PRESS 

Those of you who are interested in collecting botanical 
specimens will be glad to have details for making the simple 
press shown in Fig. 219. 

The illustration shows a press 9^ inches wide and 12 
inches long, with twelve tiers of drying material. You may 



Fig. 219,—An Herbarium Press 


alter the size if you wish, and use fewer layers of drying 
material. This is a matter for you to decide. 

The Top and Bottom Boards of the press must be straight 
pieces of ^-inch stuff. Figure 220 shows a piece cut from 
a lo-inch board. For a wider press use a 12-inch board. 

Fasten a pair of battens across the boards near their ends 
to keep them from warping, as shown at A (Fig. 220). Cut 
the strips i inch wide and bevel their edges as shown. Fasten 
the battens to the boards with screws, 1}^ inches long. 






126 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Layers of Drying Material. Buy six sheets of blot¬ 
ting paper 19 by 24 inches in size, and cut each into four 
pieces 9^ by 12 inches, making twenty-four pieces in all. 
Also, get cotton batting to make twelve pieces of the size 
of the blotters, and corrugated strawboard to cut into the 
same number of pieces. You may buy desk blotters at a 
stationery store. 



Fig. 220. —Pattern for the Top and 
Bottom Boards. 



Fig. 221. —Arrangement of the Layers 
' of Dr3dng Material. 


Assembling the Press. Figure 221 shows how to assemble 
the layers, placing each cotton batting layer between a pair 
of blotters, and each pair of blotters between sheets of the 
corrugated strawboard. Use two sheets of the strawboard, 
placed back to back, for each layer, as shown in Fig. 221. 

With the top and bottom boards cleated, and the fillers 
cut and arranged, all you require to complete the press is a 
pair of straps long enough to pass around the assembled 
press and buckle. 



























NATURE STUDY COLLECTIONS 


127 


With specimens placed between the cotton and blotters 
and the straps adjusted (Fig. 219) hang the press where a 
current of air will strike it. Air passing through the cor¬ 
rugations of the strawboard carries oh the moisture absorbed 
by the blotters and facilitates the drying of specimens. The 
drying process may be hastened by hanging the press over 
a stove. 



An ordinary photograph shows only two dimensions and 
consequently is flat, a stereoscopic photograph adds the 
third dimension, depth. No doubt you have viewed stereo¬ 
scopic pictures through a stereoscope and have marveled at 
the vividness of each detail. The principle is simple, the 
stereoscopic camera has two lenses, mounted the same dis¬ 
tance apart as your eyes, and two pictures are taken, one 
showing what would be seen by the left eye, the other what 
would be seen by the right eye. The left lens shows a little 
more of the left side of objects, the right lens a little more of 
the right side, and when the two pictures are thrown together 
by means of the stereoscope you see more of each side of 
objects than in single-lens pictures, which causes them to 
stand out. 

STEREOSCOPIC PICTURES WITH YOUR CAMERA 

By rigging up the simple device shown in Fig. 222 to en¬ 
able you to make two properly spaced exposures it is an easy 
matter to produce stereoscopic pictures. With this rig, it is 
only necessary to make an exposure, then shift the camera to 
the other side of the gauge-board, insert a fresh film or plate, 
and make a second exposure. 

The Exposures must be of equal length, and everything in 

128 























STEREOSCOPIC PICTURES 


129 


the picture must be motionless until the two are made; also, 
care must be taken not to move the tripod. 



Fig. 222.—With this Rig You Can Make Stereoscopic Pictures with 

Your Camera. 

MOUNTING THE PRINTS 

After making prints from the pair of negatives, cut a 
mount 7 inches wide and 3 inches high, from box cardboard, 
and mount the prints with photo paste or mucilage, leaving 
a space of He inch between the prints (Fig. 223). The top 
corners of the prints may be trimmed round, as shown, or 
left square. 

Transpose the Prints in mounting. That is, mount the 










13 ° 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


7 

picture taken at the left of the gauge-board at the left of 
the card mount, and the picture taken at the right of the 
gauge board at the right of the mount. This must be done, if 



Fig. 223. —Mount Prints from the Two 
Exposures Side by Side, Transposed. 



the pictures are transposed in printing, and they will be if the 
negatives are on roll film and are printed in pairs. If they 
are on cut films or plates, remember to mount them in the 
correct order. Mark the negatives and (Fig. 223) 
so there will be no confusion. 

MAKING THE GAUGE-BOARD 

Figure 224 shows a detail of the gauge-board. Your cam¬ 
era will determine its dimensions. The width between the 

rim strips should be exactly 3 inches more than the width of 
► 























STEREOSCOPIC PICTURES 


131 

your camera, the distance from front to back just enough to 
accommodate your camera. 

If you have 

A Camera Tripod, mount the gauge-board upon it; if not, 
hinge three legs to the edges of the gauge-board as shown in 
Fig. 222, to make a tripod. Rubber tips such as are made 
for crutches may be put on the ends of the tripod legs to 
keep them from slipping when stood upon smooth surfaces. 



© ^ 



CHAPTER XV 

KITES AND KITE TOURNA¬ 
MENTS 



When boys took up the sport of building model airplanes 
it was predicted that kite-flying was bound to become a back 
number, not to be considered by boys who pride themselves 
on keeping abreast of the times, doomed to share the fate of 
walking, that fine pastime made unpopular by the auto¬ 
mobile. But, while the village shoemaker has gone into 
patching auto tops and tires to eke out a living, kite-flying 
has lost none of its prestige. 

It is true we have witnessed marvellous strides in the devel¬ 
opment of model airplanes,^ but for the most part the sport 
has been confined to groups, manual-training classes, com¬ 
munity play-grounds. Boy Scout troops and activities spon¬ 
sored by the Young Men’s Christian Association, Rotary 
clubs, Kiwanis and other organizations. 

Model airplane building has not yet gripped the average 
boy who works without adult supervision. Still, there 
probably isn’t such a “critter” as a boy unbitten once a year, 
at least, by the kite-flying bug. You know how it is with 
yourself and every boy in your neighborhood. Ask father 
and grandfather about their boyhood days and you will be 
surprised to find that their kite-flying experiences are among 
their most vivid recollections. 

1 Plans for Model Airplanes, Propellers, a Motor Winder, Distance Measuring 
Device, etc. will be found in Chapters XIX and XX of “The Handy Boy.” 

132 































KITES AND KITE TOURNAMENTS 


133 


KITE-FLYING AS A SCHOOL PROJECT 

It has been said that you can make anything fly. If you 
had attended the kite tournament held by the Schley School 
of Chicago last Spring, you would not question the assertion. 
There were kites of every conceivable form sent aloft by 
these boys. And the best part of the performance was that 
every kite would fly. The boys went to the flying field 
confident that the kites would fly. There was a star-shaped 
kite, a kite with the form of a butterfly, a kite with head, 
legs,and arms, dubbed ^The Chinaman’’, several ship models. 
I asked the boys,‘Will your kite fly?” and the reply was 
always,“Sure it will!” Yet few of the kites had had a try¬ 
out. The kites had been planned with care, proportioned 
correctly, balanced nicely, with bridles attached properly, 
the chief requisites of successful models, and the boys were 
justified in their confidence. Kite-flying had been desig¬ 
nated a Spring-term manual-training project, and under 
their able instructor, Mr. Waldo Peterson, the boys had 
learned the principles of the sport. 

That you might see the sort of models the Schley School 
boys built, I took the photograph shown in Fig. 225. The 
boys were glad to pose for this. All boys like to pose for 
photographs likely to be published, and most boys want to 
get into the center foreground. In this picture all didn’t get 
into the center foreground, neither are aU visible, which isn’t 
the boys’ fault; simply on the twelfth attempt I succeeded 
in snapping the camera shutter before those in the back¬ 
ground had elbowed their way to the front. In addition, I 
obtained the poses of Hymen Forkask and his ship kite (Fig. 


134 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


226), Alfred Witkowski and his Chinese junk (Fig. 227), 
Isadore Cohen and his butterfly kite (Fig. 228), and William 
Witkowski and his bow kite (Fig. 239, Chapter XVI), and 
gathered the data on the kites’ construction presented in the 
diagrams of Figs. 236 to 238 of this chapter and Figs. 242 to 
245 of the following chapter. 

KITE WORKMANSHIP 

It isn’t so much the shape as it is the workmanship that 
determines the success of a kite as a flier. In other words, a 
faulty kite bespeaks a faulty builder, a boy who hasn’t 
mastered the principles of kite construction, or one who 
hasn’t learned to work carefully and check up as he proceeds. 
In my correspondence I find evidence of this. “My Con3me 
kite does not fly”, writes one reader. “I have tried altering 
it, but with no better results”; and another reports his 
experience with the same set of plans: “We made the kite and 
it flew nearly straight overhead to a height close to 700 feet. 
It had such a pull we could hardly hold it.” 

KITE MAKING MATERIALS 

Of first consideration in building a kite are 
The Sticks. Your grandfather will tell you that he and the 
other boys whittled sticks with their jack-knives. • But that 
was in the day of expert whit tiers. Now that sharpeners 
have superseded knives for pointing pencils, and the art of 
whittling is almost forgotten, except here and there where 
some one has revived interest in it, a boy generally looks for 
A Simpler Way to Prepare Sticks. A circular saw or a band¬ 
saw does the work in jig time, and this is the modern method 



Fig. 226.—a Ship Kite. 



Fig. 227. 

A Chinese Junk Kite. 



Fig. 228. 

A Butterfly Kite. 



Fig. 225.—These Kites were Correctly Proportioned and 
Carefully Made, and all Flew. 







I \ MAJ 



KITES AND KITE TOURNAMENTS 


135 


in most manual-training classes. If you have access to a 
shop you could probably arrange to rip up a supply of sticks 
to last a season. Lacking shop facilities, learn to saw to a 
line, and you will have no difficulty in ripping sticks from a 
board with a hand rip-saw. Mark out the sticks }i inch 
thicker than the finished dimension. That will allow for the 
saw-cut and for planing up and sandpapering the surfaces 
after sawing. 

If there is a planing-mill in town, it should not cost much 
to have your sticks ripped there, but mills are not always 
accommodating to boys. It is too much of a nuisance to 
bother with small orders. However, if you will order a 
quantity of sticks at one time sufficient to supply the boys 
in your neighborhood, your order will probably be accepted. 
If you will order twice as many sticks as you plan to use, it 
wUl be handy to have the surplus for replacements and 
future models. 

The Material for Sticks should be light weight, straight¬ 
grained, and free from defects. Spruce is excellent, so is soft 
pine, and among other woods may be mentioned cypress, 
basswood, and cedar. Bamboo is also much used. Perhaps 
you can get a bamboo fishing-pole to split up. Dowel sticks 
can be used for spines, or vertical sticks, when available. 

Use Heavy Linen Thread for binding together the frame¬ 
work sticks. 

For Covering Material, use strong light-weight wrapping- 
paper, unbleached muslin, cambric lining, airplane linen or 
balloon silk. The brown wrapping-paper now commonly 
used by merchants is satisfactory. No doubt you can get 
some at a neighborhood store. 


136 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


For Flying Line, any strong light-weight wrapping-twine 
sold at the hardware store will do, but nothing is better than 
masons’ twine. 

KITE CONSTRUCTION 

The Secret of Making a Framework that will hold its 
shape lies in so lashing the sticks that they are absolutely 
rigid. To any Boy Scout who has passed his knot-tying 
tests this work will be second nature. After crossing the 
sticks at the desired angle, lash them diagonally both ways 
{A and B, Fig. 229), keeping the thread taut, then wind 
thread around the lashings between the sticks as shown at 
C (Fig. 230). 

Notch Stick Ends to receive the framing string (Figs. 231 
and 232), and when you have passed the string through the 
notches, lash it to the stick ends with thread (Fig. 233). A 
check up of the spacing of stick ends may be taken and ad¬ 
justments made before lashing the framing string to the 
sticks. 

We used to notch our sticks with our jack-knives. 

The Modern Way of Notching is with a file (Fig. 231), or a 
coping-saw or other small saw (Fig. 232). 

To Fasten the Framing-String to the stick ends, use an 
overhand knot (Fig. 234). 

Methods of Attaching the Bridle. The bow kite (Fig. 242, 
Chapter XVI) has a two-point attachment, as indicated by 
dotted lines. In the diagram of Fig. 243, the bridle has been 
brought* over to one side to show you how long to make the 
loop and at what point to join the flying line. The Conyne. 
Kite (Fig. 246) and the box kite (Fig. 250) also have two- 
point attachments. 


KITES AND KITE TOURNAMENTS 


137 


The ship models shown in the photographs of Figs. 226 
and 227 have four-point bridle attachments. Notice that 
the point of attaching the flying line is somewhat above the 
center of balance (Figs. 236 and 237). The center is readily 



Fig. 229 and 230.—Lash Together Crossed Sticks Like This. 

Figs. 231 and 232.—Notch Stick Ends in One of these Ways. 

Figs. 233 and 234.—Two Ways of Fastening Framing String to Sticks. 
Fig. 235.—Join the Flying Line by Using the Fisherman’s Knot. 

ascertained by balancing the finished framework upon the 
edge of a narrow board or other edge. 

The butterfly kite (Fig. 228) has a six-point bridle attach¬ 
ment with the flying line joined at a point above the center of 
balance (Fig. 238). 











138 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

Tails are used with few modern types of kites. Some 
models require them for counterbalance. Just such a model 
is the Chinese junk kite in Fig. 227. Notice that this 
kite’s tail consists of a hexagonal kite below which is sus¬ 
pended a weighted basket made of paper. 

Join the Flying Line Securely to the belly-band] so there 
will be no possibility of its slipping. The fisherman’s knot 



Fig. 236.—Ship Kite Shown in Photograph of Fig. 226. 

(Fig. 235) is a good knot here, and good for joining one length 
to another, when that is required. Notice that an overhand 
knot is made with each string end, each embracing the other 
string. When pulled together a secure knot is obtained. 
The knot is readily undone by slipping the knots apart and 
untying. 

In Covering the Framework use a home-made flour paste, 
so-called library paste, or photographic paste, for pasting 
paper, use glue for cloth, or sew with thread. Make the lap 













KITES AND KITE TOURNAMENTS 


139 


of edges enough so there will be plenty of pasting surface, 
and be sure to get the laps of uniform width. 

. Decorating Kite Models is an art in itself. It may be 
done with water-colors or crayons, or by adding patches of 
paper of contrasting colors. You will notice all sorts of 
designs on the kites in the photograph of Fig. 225. 



Fig. 237.—Chinese Junk Kite Shown in Photograph of Fig. 227. 


A KITE TOURNAMENT 

You may become an expert at kite making and flying, but 
there will be other claimants to the distinction of being 
champion of the community. The only way to establish 
your claim is by test, in a free-for-all kite tournament. In¬ 
terest local business men, the school principal, or one of the 
community’s organizations in promoting the tournament and 
ask the local newspaper to handle the publicity end of it. 




























140 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Then all you have to do is knuckle down and build the best 
kite that you know how to build, for your own entry. 

Races seem to be the most popular events in kite tourna¬ 
ments. These consist of the half-mile and quarter-mile 



Fig, 238.—Butterfly Kite Shown in Photograph 

of Fig. 228. 


dashes. The contestants are required to enter their flying 
lines for measurement at a stated time preceding the tourna¬ 
ment, and when the lengths have been checked, seals are 
set which must be removed before the judges when the events 
are called. 

A race consists of putting up the kite, letting out the full 
length of line, then pulling it down and reeling up the line. 
The winner, of course, is the boy whose model is brought 
down first. 





















KITES AND KITE TOURNAMENTS 


141 

The Pulling Test is another popular event. The winning 
model is found by the use of a spring-balance such as the 
iceman uses. You can purchase an inexpensive one at the 
hardware store. To make the tests fair, at least three 
readings should be taken for each kite. 

The Altitude Event always attracts attention. For 
measuring altitudes, the judges should have a surveyor’s 
transit. Somebody in the community may own a transit or 
can borrow one for the occasion. 

An Aerial Battle is a novelty event in which two kites 
engage in a fight to the finish, resulting in the loss of one 
model, possibly two. The object is to cut down the oppo¬ 
nent’s flying line at a specified distance below the kite by so 
maneuvering his kite that a portion of its flying line, pre¬ 
viously coated with resin, rubs against the opponent’s line 
until the latter is severed. 

The Kite-Building Contest to determine the speediest as 
well as the most expert builder should not be overlooked. 
Tables should be provided for work benches, if possible. 
Kite-making materials and tools are usually furnished the 
contestants. 

The Beauty Contest is still another test to determine the 
most artistically ornamented kite, not the most beautiful 
kite-flier, and 

The Novelty Contest to determine the most novel design. 
It must always be demonstrated that models entered will fly. 

THE SUCCESS OF A TOURNAMENT 

Whether a tournament is successful or not depends largely 
upon the management. There must be ample protection for 


142 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


contestants, as a meet of this kind often attracts a rowdy 
element bent on mischief which, if not held in check, will 
smash models and otherwise molest contestants. • There 
should be a tent, work-table, tools and material for 
A Kite Hospital, to which contestants may take injured 
models for ^^first aid’^ treatment. 



9 ^ 


CHAPTER XVI 


MORE KITES 



When one considers the advantage of tailless kites over 
kites with tails, the reason for a preference for them on the 
part of kite experts is easy to understand. In the first 
place, kite tails are a nuisance to aU parties concerned; to 
mother, because she is called on for rags, to linemen and 
radio ^^bugs,” because their wires are obstructed by tails, 
string, sticks, and paper, to the public not in sympathy with 
boy activities, because wrecked kites are an offence to the 
eye, and to the kite-builders themselves because three- 
quarters of tail models are lost through tail entanglements. 

Shorn of tails, kites are less likely to meet with mishaps. 
In their favor, also, are qualifications for flying in strong 
wind as well as light, for supporting banners, lanterns, and 
other paraphernalia, and for flying in tandem. 

THE MALAY OR BOW KITE 

is the most popular of tailless kites, a fact accounted for by 
its simplicity of construction. Indeed, it is easier to make 
than the hexagonal tail kite. 

The photograph of Fig. 239 shows a well-designed bow 
kite 54 inches long. Its proportions are somewhat different 
from those set down in ^The Handy Boy,’’ but it has given 

a good account of itself, which is the only recommendation 

143 






















144 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


necessary. Figure 242 shows a sketch of the completed 
kite, and Figs. 243 to 245 details of the framework and 
bridle. 

The Sticks are two in number, of the dimensions given in 
Fig. 244. Bend the bow stick to the arc shown in Fig. 245 
and fasten the bow string securely to the ends to hold the 



Fig. 242. —Bow Kite Shown in Photograph of Fig. 239. 

shape. Cross the bow and vertical stick at right angles at 
the height, given in Fig. 243, and lash as shown in Figs. 
229 and 230 (Chapter XV). Frame the sticks as described 
in the preceding chapter. 

In Covering the bow kite some boys make the mistake of 
putting the material upon the concave instead of the convex 
side of the framework, and not being certain of 
The Side to Attach the Bridle to they trust to luck and in 
many instances put it on the concave side, which is wrong, 









Fig. 239.—A Malay or Bow Kite. 


Fig. 241.—a Box Kite Ready to Launch. 


Fig. 240.—a Conyne Kite. 





• » ■' 




» 





1 ^'. 






MORE KITES 


145 


of course, because the kite floats with its convex side to the 
wind. Figure 243 shows the two-point attachment for the 
bridle, and the proper length for the loop when it is held 



Fig. 245 

Fig, 243.—Framework of the Bow Kite, 
Fig. 244.—Detail of Sticks. 

Fig. 245.—The Bow. 


over to one side of the framework; also, the height at which 
to join the flying line to the bridle. 

Ordinarily, the bow kite is a steady flier, but it is easy 
To Make it Perform Erratically, All that is required is the 















146 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

insertion of a rubber band in the lower length of string, just 
below the point for attaching the flying line. Try this and 
you will have an aerial circus. 

f 

THE CONYNE KITE 

This dependable flier is a combination of the old reliable 
hexagonal kite minus the tail, and a modified form of 
the box kite. Its invention dates back to the late nine¬ 
ties, and it received its name from its inventor Silas J. 
Conyne. 

Before the day of the airplane and smoke-ring writing in 
the sky, the Conyne kite was used extensively for floating 
aloft all manner of advertising, and it was a not uncommon 
occurrence to see a ^^man” swinging upon a trapeze bar one 
thousand feet or more above Chicago’s skyscrapers, adver¬ 
tising ^^High-grade clothing at rock bottom prices helps to 
keep down the soaring cost of living,” which propaganda or 
similar matter on banners or circulars linked up the stunt 
with the name of one of the lesser local merchants. And as 
the kite or tandem of kites supporting the trapeze, banner 
and other advertising matter was usually well out of sight 
in the clouds or smoky atmosphere, and as the dummy was 
cleverly contrived, probably fifty per cent of shoppers and 
business men who congregated on street comers or gazed 
from office windows, believed him to be of flesh and blood 
and were puzzled to know what supported him and how he 
managed to hang on to the bar a day at a time. 

The Conyne is a Strong Puller as you will surmise from 
the performances described above, and it requires a strong 
wrapping-twine or mason’s chalk-line for a flying line and 


MORE KITES 


147 


the assistance of another boy (let us call him the mechanic) 
to manipulate the flying line will not be amiss. 

The photograph of Fig. 240 shows a Conyne kite that 
measures 3 feet long and 3 feet across, a size convenient to 
handle. If you wish a larger model, it is a simple matter to 
increase the dimensions in relative proportion, always keep- 



Fig. 246.—Back, or Leeward Side, of Conyne 
Kite Shown in Photograph of Fig. 240. 


ing- the length and width equal. A sketch of the completed 
kite is shown in Fig. 246, and 

The Construction is detailed in Figs. 247 to 249. As the 
preparation of sticks and the correct methods of framing are 
discussed in the preceding chapter, these instructions will 
not be repeated here. 

The Four Sticks are shown in Fig. 248. These are of 
equal size. Stick A supports the entering edge of the tri- 



















































































148 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


angular cells, sticks B and C support the other two edges 
and form the vertical spines of the hexagonal plane, and 
D is the horizontal member of the plane. Leave the ends 



g f .. 1 


Fig. 248 

P^iG. 247.—Framework of the Conyne Kite. 

Fig, 248.—Details of Sticks. 

Fig. 249.—Detail of Triangular Cells. 

of Stick A square, cut notches near the ends of sticks B and 
C in which to fasten the framing string, and cut a notch in 
each end of spreader-stick D in which to slip the framing 
string. As the spreader-stick is removable, the kite may be 




































































































































MORE KITES 


149 


taken down and rolled up into a compact roll after each 
flight. 

The Covering Material may be tough wrapping-paper, 
but cambric is more durable and better for this type of kite. 
Several colors of cloth may be used to advantage. The kite 
in the photograph has one triangular cell covered with red, 
the other with blue, and the hexagonal plane is covered with 
white, a combination hard to improve upon. 

Form the Triangular Cells by tacking strips of cloth 12 
inches wide to the ends of sticks A, B and C, spacing the 
sticks so the distance from center to center is 12 inches 
(Fig. 247). Then fasten framing-strings to one end of spine 
sticks B and C, run them through the notches of spreader- 
stick Dj pull taut and tie to the other end of sticks B and C. 

Figure 247 shows the kite at this stage of construction. 
The covering of the side wings of 

The Hexagonal Plane is a simple matter. Two triangular 
pieces are required (Fig. 246). Tack the inner edge of these 
pieces to spine-sticks B and C, and lap and paste the outer 
edges over the framing-string, as indicated. Notice that the 
cloth slips under the spreader-stick D. 

The Bridle is attached to stick A at two points. The 
attachment is clearly shown in the photograph of Fig. 240. 

THE BOX KITE 

So much depends on the accuracy with which the sticks 
are prepared and assembled, and on the care with which the 
covering is put on, that only a careful worker can build a 
box kite that will fly successfully. I do not say this to dis¬ 
courage any of you lads who know that carelessness is your 


150 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

weakness. ‘ For I know that you can build a good model if 
you determine to do your best. It rests with you to succeed. 
Follow the plans and instructions exactly, work slowly and 
as carefully as you know how, and 

If You Bungle the Work, do it over again, and several tirries 
more if it is necessary, until you are satisfied that it is correct. 
Most carelessness is the result of impatience to be through 
with a job in the shortest time possible. I will admit that 
it is difficult to work slowly on a kite model, knowing that 



Fig. 250.—Box Kite Shown in Photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 241. 

the other fellow may beat you and have his kite ready for 
flight, but remember that if you do all of your work well 
you will have a kite that will fly. By the time you get 
your kite aloft, your friend may be nursing a bunch of 
broken sticks, the remains of a model hastily put together. 
Do your work right and you wiU win out in the long run. 

The photograph of Fig. 241 shows a 3-foot box kite in 
position for launching and Fig. 250 shows its position in 
flight. Figure 251 shows the completed stick framework, 
and Fig. 252 a detail of one of 

The Side Frames with dimensions of its sticks. There are ' 







MORE KITES 


151 


two frames exactly alike. Fasten cross-sticks B to hori¬ 
zontal sticks A with short slender brads, the end cross-sticks 



Fig. 251.—Completed Framework of the Box Kite. 

Fig. 252.—One of the Pair of Side Frames. 

Fig. 253.—Details of Strut-Sticks. 

Fig. 254.—Detail of Assembly. 

Fig. 255.—How the Struts Fit Over Frame-Sticks. 

3 inches from the ends of sticks A, and the center cross stick 
exactly half-way between. Sticks B must be placed at 







































































































152 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


right angles to sticks Aj so the frame’s corners will be abso¬ 
lutely square. Be careful not to place the brads in line with 
one another—that is, along the same grain, for that will 
surely weaken the connection if it does not cause the wood 
to split. Connections may be strengthened by wrapping 
with thread. 

The Diagonal Struts (C, Fig. 251) cannot be fitted until 
after the bands enclosing the end cells have been made and 
attached to the side frames, but you may cut them now, 
making them 27 inches long and of the width and thickness 
indicated in Fig. 253. The length given will allow for trim¬ 
ming the ends in fitting the sticks in place. 

The Cell Covering should be of light-weight cambric. 
The band strips for the kite illustrated should measure 10 
inches wide and 70 inches long. Hem the edges to prevent 
ravelling and to make the edges firm. Sew together the 
ends of the bands with a double row of stitching, lapping 
the ends so the measurement around the inside will be 
exactly 68 inches. The bands must be of equal length. 

Assembling. When the bands have been completed, slip 
them over the ends of the side frames as shown in Fig. 254. 
Spread the frames to their fullest extent, and measure the 
length for struts C. Cut these sticks a trifle longer than the 
diagonal measurement, so they will bow slightly when sprung 
into place. This will keep the bands stretched taut. Cut 
a notch in the stick ends (Fig. 253) so the struts will fit over 
sticks A as shown in Fig. 255. Press the struts close to 
sticks B and lash at their intersections to bind them to¬ 
gether (Fig. 251). Fasten the cell bands to the frame-sticks 
with small tacks or glue. 


MORE KITES 


153 


The Bridle is of the two-point type, as you will see by 

_ 0 

Fig. 250. This is the common method of attachment, al¬ 
though some models have three-point attachments and 
others four-point. 

To Launch the Box Kite, stand it in the position shown in 
the photograph of Fig. 241. The distance at which you 
stand from the kite is optional, but the farther away you 
are the faster the kite will mount to the higher air currents, 
because the length of string between the kite and your hand 
represents the radius of the arc that the kite will describe 
in rising. 

If Your Kite Doesn’t Fly ‘Tight off the bat,” look to your 
workmanship, check up on measurements, see if like sides 
are symmetrical, and examine the bridle attachments. 
With close inspection, you will probably locate your difficulty 
in one of these matters of detail. But with the warning in 
mind that no kite will fly that is not accurately made, work 
carefully, check up as you proceed, and readjustments will 
not be necessary. 






CHAPTER XVII 
KITE REELS 


The expert kite-flyer is as particular about keeping his 
flying line in good condition as the fisherman is about his 
fishing tackle. His line is never allowed to become snarled 
and knotted, and the solution of the problem is a kite reel. 
A good reel can be made in less time than it would require 
to undo some of the snarled lines that I have seen, and you 
will find that it expedites both the paying out and taking in 
of line. 

A SHIN REEL 

You wear this reel strapped to the shin of your right leg, 
or, if you are left-handed, to the shin of your left leg. Your 
hands are left free to manipulate the kite string. String is 
unreeled by pulling as you pay it out, and reeled up from a 
kneeling position like that assumed by the boy in Fig. 256, 
which brings the crank within easy reach of the hand. 

Figure 257 shows a detail of the completed reel and Fig. 
258 details of the construction. 

The Winding Drum {A^ Figs. 257 and 258) is a ribbon 
spool. The spool flanges will not be deep enough, so must 
be increased by adding wooden disks B to the ends. Cut 
these about twice the diameter of the spool, bore a hole 
through the center of each, and nail with brads to the spool 
ends. 


154 


































KITE REELS 


155 



Fig. 256. —With this Shin Reel Strapped in Place, Your Hands Are Free to 

Manipulate the Kite String. 




















OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


156 

The Frame in which the drum is mounted consists of two 
end blocks C nailed to a piece D (Fig. 258). Cut D a trifle 
longer than the drum and blocks C just large enough to 



Fig. 257.—Details of the Shin Reel. Fig. 258.—Details of Drum and Frame. 

accommodate the drum. Bore holes somewhat larger than 
the spool hole through blocks C, for the shaft to turn in, 
being careful to get them opposite. Cut the shaft enough 
























































































KITE REELS 



Fig. 260.—Body Reel. 
























































































































































































158 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

longer than the drum to project beyond blocks C, }4 inch 
on one side and 2 inches on the other. 

The Crank is made of strip E, bored near one end to 
receive the shaft, and spool F pivoted near the other end 
by means of a nail or screw forms a handle. Pin the crank 
to the shaft with a brad. 

The Shin Stick upon which the reel is mounted (ZT, Fig. 
257) should be cut of the right length to reach from your 
shoe to your knee. Nail block D of the drum frame to the 
stick (Fig. 257), then tack three straps to E —^loop I to pass 
under the arch of the shoe and straps J and K to buckle 
around the leg. The straps may be adjusted until the. 
device feels comfortable. 

A HAND REEL 

The simple reel shown in Fig. 259 has a spool drum like 
that of the shin reel. Make the axle long enough to provide 
a handle to hold the reel by. This axle must fit loosely so 
the drum will turn freely, and a couple of brads must be 
driven through it to keep the drum from sliding off the ends. 
A spool pivoted to one end of the drum forms a crank. 

A BODY REEL 

This reel, shown in Fig. 260, is made to strap around the 
waist. The winding drum and the crank for turning it are 
similar to those of the shin reel. A cigar-box is used for 
mounting. Cut two slots- in each side of the box through 
which to slip a pair of belts or book-straps. This is a simple 
rig to make and one worth having. 



If you will make feeding stations and establish them in 
the garden and hang them upon trees on the lawn, you will 
be surprised to note the many kinds of feathered boarders 
that will come regularly during the winter months to partake 
of food, the number increasing as the stations become better 
known and weather conditions become less favorable for 
foraging. 

After winter snows bury the ground and bushes and cut 
off natural food supplies, the most timid bird will visit 
feeding stations, the most independent bird will accept your 
proffered bill o’ fare. 

A CENSUS OF WINTER GUESTS 

An accurate record of the different species of birds that 
visit your feeding table would be interesting; more than that, 
it would be valuable to the community as a census of its 
winter birds. Mr. Ernest Harold Baynes, naturalist and 
author, reports twenty-two species of birds as visitors at 
window feeding stations at Meriden, New Hampshire. The 
list from his book '‘Wild Bird Guests” comprises the follow¬ 
ing: hairy woodpecker, downy woodpecker, ruby-throated 
humming bird, blue jay, pine grosbeak, purple finch, white¬ 
winged cross-bill, redpoll, pine siskin, vesper sparrow, white- 

159 
































i6o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


crowned sparrow, white-throated sparrow, tree sparrow, 
chipping sparrow, junco, song sparrow, myrtle warbler, 
winter wren, white-breasted nuthatch, red-breasted nut¬ 
hatch, chickadee, and Hudsonian chickadee. In many 
localities a robin remains all winter, and other birds not 
included in the above list have been reported. And, of 
course, early returning birds that encounter snow and sleet 
storms after their arrival augment the list of .‘feeders, though 
they may not be classed as winter guests. 

STOCKING THE FEEDING STATIONS 

If you undertake to feed winter birds, you must be faithful 
to your task and see that your food depots are stocked at all 
times, and kept free of snow and sleet. Daily attention 
will take little of your time, and if you have the average 
boy’s love of birds, you will enjoy looking after their needs 
and your interest will not lag. Indeed, you may be impelled 
to render a larger service by establishing a feeding station 
here and there in open fields. Boy Scout troops and com¬ 
munity bird clubs are doing much in this direction. 

WINTER FOOD 

The fare for insectivorous birds is suet and meat scraps. 
You can ask mother to have the butcher include extra pieces 
of suet with her meat orders, and you can use meat scraps 
from the table, unless you own a dog to claim them. The 
food for seed-feeding birds includes hemp seed, millet seed, 
sunflower seed, and poultry feed. Nuts are relished by 
chickadees and nuthatches. Bread-crumbs are a delicacy 
to both insectivorous and seed-feeding birds. If your feeding 



Fig. 263 .—a Trolley Cafeteria for Winter Birds. 








FEEDING BIRDS IN WINTER 


i6t 


stations are large enough you may stock them with a variety 
of food, that all tastes may be satisfied. 

A SUET STATION 

The little feeding station with canopied top shown in the 
photograph of Fig. 261 is an attractive garden or lawn 



Fig. 264. —Front Elevation 
of Suet Station Shown in 
Photograph of Fig. 261. 



Fig. 265. —Cross-Section 
of Suet Station. 


accessory that may be screwed either to a tree trunk or to 
a post set in the ground. The rack will hold small scraps 
of suet and meat, and the wire front offers resistance to 
squirrels, crows, jays, and other visitors that may be tempted 
to gluttonize. 

Figure 264 shows a detailed front elevation of the station, 













































































































i 62 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN. 


and Fig. 265 a cross-section. By the lettering you will be 
able to locate 

The Parts upon the two diagrams, A, the back-board, B the 
shelf, C the roof, D tho roof brackets, E the rack ends, F 
the wire guard, and G the perch sticks. Pieces A, B, C, 
D and E may be cut out of box boards. One-half inch stuff 
is thick enough. Cut them of the dimensions given, nail 
the roof and shelf to the back, brace the roof with its pair of 
brackets, and nail the rack ends to the back-board. 

The Wire Front is a scrap of wire cloth with ^-inch mesh. 
If you cannot pick up a waste scrap you can buy a third of 
a yard at a hardware store for 10 or 15 cents, which ^vill be 
large enough for a dozen racks. Tack the wire to the rack 
ends with netting staples. 

Bore two holes in the front edge of shelf B and stick 
2-inch round pegs in them for perches. Bore a pair of holes 
in the back-board for screws for fastening the suet station 
to its tree or post support. 

A SUET AND SEED STATION 

The suet station shown in the photograph of Fig. 262 is 
•another to be found on my home grounds. It differs from 
the one just described in its suet receptacle which is intended 
for tried out suet instead of scraps. The shelf below the 
suet cup has a rim around it to form a trough for seed and 
nuts. 

Figure 266 shows a* front cross-section, with dimensions 
for cutting 

The Parts. Upright block A is cut from a 2-by-4, roof 
boards B and C and shelf D are of ^-inch stuff, and strips 


FEEDING BIRDS IN WINTER 


163 


E and F inclosing the shelf are pieces of lath or lattice 
strip. 



ri \^ii / i 

h ■'■4*— *4 “4* •’-4 


Fig. 266 


Fig. 270 


Figs. 266 and 267.—Cross-Sections of Suet and Seed Station 
Shown in Photograph of Fig. 262. 

Figs. 268-271.—Details of Shelter, Seeji Trough and Suet Cup. 

Cut a recess 3 inches in diameter and ^ inch deep in the 
face of block A, in' the position indicated in Figs. 266 and 
267, for the suet cup, a tin cover from a idb. size baking- 



























































































































































164 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


powder can. You can bore a hole of the right diameter 
with an expansive bit, but it is not essential that you have 
one of these bits. You can bore a ring of small holes inside 
the circumference, then cut away the wood between the 
holes and trim up the edges with a chisel. To provide for 
pinning the receptacle in the recess, bore a he-inch hole 
through the block from the lower end to the recess (Figs. 266 
and 267), through which to run a 16-penny nail {H). 



Fig. 272 Fig. 273 

Fig. 272. —Detail of Completed Trolley Cafeteria Shown in 
Photograph of Fig. 263. 

Fig. 273. —Cocoa-Can Seed Hopper. 

Miter the top of block A to establish the pitch of the roof, 
and chamfer the bottom corners as shown. Notice that the 
roof board B will be ^ inch narrower than piece C overlap¬ 
ping it. 

Cut shelf D and rim strips E and F of the given dimen¬ 
sions, assemble them as shown in Fig. 270 and nail to the 
lower part of block A. 

Set screw-eyes in the roof each side of the ridge to fasten 
a wire hanger to for hanging the rack. 


























































FEEDING BIRDS IN WINTER 


165 

The Suet Cup. The i-lb. baking-powder can cover used 
for the cup (G, Fig. 271) must have a hole punched in one 
side through which to run nail H for fastening it in the 
recess of block A. 

To fill the cup, fry out some suet, allow it to chill, and 
then dish it into the cup with a spoon or knife and smooth 
it off even with the rim. 


Fig, 276 





Fig. 274 Fig. 275 

Fig. 274.—Cross-Section of Trolley Cafeteria. 

Fig. 275.—Box for the Cafeteria Shelter. 

Fig. 276.—Wire Coil Suet Rack. 

A bird’s cafeteria 

The photograph of Fig. 263 shows my sheltered feeding 
house which is provided with pulley hangers that run upon 
a trolley wire. Figure 272 shows a detail of the completed 
model, and Fig. 274 a cross-section. 

Use a Grocery Box for the shelter. Remove one side 
(Fig. 275), then nail several boards to the top to form a 
roof with a projection of inches over the sides and ends, 























i66 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


and trim the base with 3-inch strips fitted as shown (Aj 
Fig. 272). 

The Hangers (Fig. 277) are built up of >^-inch strips B 
(Fig. 278), i-inch strip C and i-inch block D, Nail these 
four pieces together in the form shown in Fig. 277, then cut 
away enough of one side strip so the hanger can be slipped 
on and off the trolley wire. The hanger pulley (E, Fig. 279) 



Fig. 277 Fig. 280 Fig. 278 

Figs. 277-281.—Details of Trolley Hanger. 

• 

is built up of two spool flanges (Fig. 280) cut from a spool 
of the shape shown in Fig. 281. Nail the flanges together 
with brads. Support the pulley on an axle made of a piece 
of iron rod or heavy wire, or a hard wood peg, driven through 
holes bored in strips B. Nail the hangers to the box ends 
at the center, notching the roof ends to admit them. 

The Suet Rack (Fig. 276) is a coil made by winding twenty 
turns or so of galvanized wire around a broom-handle, then 








































FEEDING BIRDS IN WINTER 


167 


slipping them off the handle. Twist each end of the coil 
into an eye to receive a screw for fastening to the rear wall 
of the shelter. 

A Perch is fastened between the ends of the shelter 2 
inches in front of the rack (G, Fig. 274). Make this of a 
round or flat stick. 

The Seed Hopper below the suet rack {H) is made of a 
cocoa-can. Bend in one side of the can as shown in Fig. 
273. With the can so bent, birds can get at seed in the can 
cover, and as fast as they eat the seed more will drop to 
take its place. To hold the can in position, drive nails into 
the box bottom at the outer corners of the can (/, Fig. 273) 
and screw an iron screen button (/) to the wall of the 
shelter to grip the top rim of the can when turned as 
shown. 

The Trolley requires No. 8 or 9 galvanized wire. Fasten 
one end to a window or porch rail, the other end to a tree or 
other support 50 feet or so distant. If you slant the wire 
sufficiently, the cafeteria will run one way by gravity, pro¬ 
vided, of course, that the trolley pulleys run freely. Attach 
a rope for pulhng it the other way. 

FINISHING FEEDING STATIONS 

To give your feeding devices a trim appearance, and to 
preserve the wood, finish them with stain or paint. If you 
stain them, the best material to use is creosote shingle stain. 
You may make a stain by thinning oil paint with turpentine, 
but exposed to the weather it will not have the permanence 
of a creosote shingle stain. If you use paint, apply two 
coats, and between coats putty the nail-holes and joints. 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


168 

If you want shiny surfaces, use automobile enamel for the 
second coat. 

BUILDING FEEDING STATIONS TO SELL 

For years boys have earned money making bird-houses 
to sell. Some have earned lots of money in this way. The 
work may be done at home, the material requires little 
capital, and the market is at hand, with every home owner 
in the community a prospective buyer. 

Feeding stations may be handled profitably, too, and 
every bird-house customer should be a good prospect for 
one or more of these. Autumn is the time to push sales 
and from that time on through the holidays. Indeed, since 
houses and feeding stations make excellent gifts, you should 
be able to do a good business during the holiday season. 






CHAPTER XIX 


A COASTER AND A SINGLE 
RUNNER 



Perhaps you didn’t receive that sled you expected for 
Christmas, or, perhaps, there is a brother who hasn’t one. 
Anticipating one of these conditions, I am showing on this 
and following pages the plans for 

A SPEEDY COASTER 

that should outdo any that has put in an appearance on the 
hill. The completed sled shown in Fig. 282 is 4 feet long, but 
this dimension and any other may be altered as you see 
fit. Cut 

The Runners out of a 6-inch board. Do not use soft wood 
unless you change the thickness to inches, because yi- 
inch stock would not stand the strain to which runners are 
subjected, even with careful handling. Yellow pine will do 
nicely. 

Figure 283 is the runner pattern. The ends are shown 
divided into squares for the purpose of aiding you in repro¬ 
ducing curves. Each square of the pattern represents i 
square inch of the full-sized pattern. After laying off the 
length and width of the runner upon the board to be used, 
rule off a series of horizontal and vertical lines i inch apart, 
at each end, as shown on the pattern. With this done, lo¬ 
cate the curves on the large squares as on the pattern. Along 

169 


























OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


170 

the upper edge of the runner, locate four notches for cross¬ 
pieces B (Figs. 284 and 286). Cut the runner ends with a 
drawknife, or saw them out and finish with a plane and 
sandpaper. 

Runner Shoes. Each runner must be shod to make it 
slide freely and to prevent the wood from wearing away. 
Strips of hoop-iron will serve the purpose, but if you can get 
strips of half-oval iron from a blacksmith they will make a 
swifter sled, because they produce less friction on snow and 



Fig. 282. —Build this Coaster and Own the Speediest 
Sled on the Hill. 


ice. Hoop iron must be punched every 6 inches or so for 
nailing. Half-oval iron strips require fastening only at the 
ends. Two holes at each end are sufficient. You can punch 
holes through hoop-iron with a nail and hammer, but you 
must drill half-oval strips. If you haven’t a drill, ask a 
blacksmith to do the work for you. 

Cut the Crosspieces B of the dimensions shown in Fig. 284. 
Set them in the runner notches so 2 inches of each end will 
project (Fig. 285). Nail the crosspieces to the runner edges, 
then brace them with iron braces C (Figs. 285 and 286). 








A COASTER AND A SINGLE RUNNER 


171 

Buy 2-by-2 inch iron braces at the hardware store. Figures 
285 and 286 show how to attach the braces, half to the outer 
face of the runners, the other half to the inner face. 

The Seat D may be made of one or two boards. Two 
6-inch boards will stand up better than one wide piece, for 

Fig. 284 Fig. 285 



Fig. 283 

Fig. 283. —Runner Pattern. 

. Fig. 284.— Runner Crosspiece. 

Fig. 285. —Cross-Section of Coaster. 

Fig. 286. —Coaster Inverted, to Show Runner Braces and Shoes. 

it is hard to fasten a wide piece so that it will not crack, as a 
result of shrinkage. It is better to screw the seat boards to 
the crosspieces than to nail them. 

Make Sled Handles of broom handles (£, Fig. 286). Bolt 
them to the ends of crosspieces B with stove-bolts, running 
the end bolts through the outer hole of braces C. 



























































172 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Finishing. Your coaster will not be complete until'you 
have painted it. Paint gives that spick-and-span just-out- 
of-the-store appearance to a sled. Red runners and a yellow 
seat, or the reverse, make a striking combination. Don’t 




Fig. 288 

Fig. 287.—A Single Runner. Fig. 288.—Longitudinal Section. 

forget to name the coaster. Letter the name upon the seat 
in pencil, then fill in the letters solid with black paint. 

A SINGLE RUNNER 

To coast with the single runner shown in Fig. 287 requires 
skill in balancing, but with practice you will acquire this. 
Figure 288 shows a longitudinal section with all parts 






























A COASTER AND A SINGLE RUNNER 173 

lettered. Cut runner A out of a piece of 2-by-6, also up¬ 
right B and brackets C. Slant the top of upright B as 
shown. Spike B to the center of the top of A, and brace 
with the triangular pieces C and the side uprights D shown 
in Fig. 287. Crosspieces £, nailed to upright B and to the 
side uprights Z), support seat F. Cut the seat board 16 
inches long. 






r 












,',f, 




a 




1 . 

■'.ft. 
■ -f’ 

-■/O'?' 











f 


\ 





PART III 

In VTOOas 


175 


















































Fig. 289.—In Motor Camps one sees all Sorts of Shelters— 
Pullmans, Trailers, and Lean-To, Wall 
AND Umbrella Tents. 



Fig. 290. —The Tepee, and Fireplace with Lug Pole, may be Built 

Where Poles are Plentiful. 









I 


A ' 







Camping out with dad has always been looked upon as a 
great event, but until the coming of the automobile it was 
the privilege of few, mostly sons of confirmed hunters and 
fisherman who refused to let business interfere with hunting 
and fishing trips. The automobile has extended camping 
opportunities to millions of boys, and to other members of 
families as well. Indeed, it seems that everybody possessed 
of a car joins sooner or later the caravan of cross-country 
vacation tourists, driving by day and camping by night. 

If father has never been a hand to camp, if his enthusiasm 
for getting out into the woods has been secondary to that for 
business, it may require persuasion to sell him the idea of 
outfitting the old bus and hitting the gasoline trail for a week 
or two, but after the first trip he will be as strong an advo¬ 
cate of the motor-gypsy life as anybody, and the annual 
tour will probably become a habit. 

Motor-camping offers most of the sport of old time camp¬ 
ing, with hardships left out and comforts added. It is the 
solution to the tenderfoot’s problem of how to rough it 
smoothly. Past camping experience is not necessary to 
make the trip a success, though it is helpful. The fellow 
who has been there knows pretty well what to take and what 
to leave at home, the one as important as the other. He 

177 





























178 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


knows the nuisance of looking after non-essentials, unpack¬ 
ing and packing them from day to day in making and 
breaking camp. 

THE MOTOR-CAMPING OUTEIT 

The amount of equipment and its content depends upon 
the number in the party, the length of the tour, the nature 
of the country to be traveled through, the weather, the 
amount of money to be expended, and the carrying capacity 
of the car. If you have camped out as a Boy Scout, gone 
on overnight hikes, you should be able to help father make 
purchases and get the motor-camping outfit together. 

A good way to go about the selection of equipment is 
first to prepare a list of all the things that occur to you as 
making for camp comfort. Let each member of the party 
make a list, in fact; consult friends who have motor-camped, 
catalogs, outdoor books and magazines. A host of ideas 
will be obtained in this way. It will remain for you and dad 
to sharpen pencils and get down to the task of determining 
what items on the list you can cross out and to repeat this 
process of elimination until you are sure only essentials and 
equipment readily packed are included. 

Even with careful planning you will take articles for which 
you will find not the slightest use and you will omit things 
which you would give a good deal to have. Make notations 
of these articles and you will have a reliable index to the 
right outfit for a similar trip, or a good basis for determining 
the outfit for a different trip. The equipment list will also 
be of value in checking off articles packed in the car and in 
keeping tab on them while on the road. 


MOTOR-CAMPING 


179 


THE MOTOR-CAMPING CARAVAN 

One meets all sorts of outfits while touring, from the motor 
pullman with sitting room, bath and kitchenette, folding 
beds, running water, gasoline range, and other luxuries, to 
the lowliest second-hand flivver with shattered body, run¬ 
ning on a flat tire or two, and with cylinders missing, but 
otherwise in good condition. While contrasts in outfits are 
great, opportunities for good times along the way are about 
equal, slightly favoring the party with the fewest non-essen¬ 
tials to look after. 


THE MOTOR PULLMAN 

The gasoline palace of the highways is an outfit built for 
extensive cross-country travel. Equipped with sleeping 
accommodations and other accessories for comfort, it is 
virtually a home on wheels and makes motor-gypsying more 
enjoyable, at least for the women. Some of the outfits are 
custom built, some are experiments of enthusiastic mechan¬ 
ics bent on securing luxuries at small cost. 

The Home-Made Pullman as a rule is built as a special 
body for a roadster, touring car or light truck chassis and is 
demountable, so that it may be removed after a trip and 
stored away for the next. But if the builders are of the 
type forever discovering improvements, the following season 
brings forth a model of different form. 

Unless a car’s springs are built to carry a truck load, the 
pullman body must be of exceedingly light construction. A 
* framework of soft pine 2-by-4S and 2-by-2 s, braced with iron 
angle braces and strap iron, a floor of boards, and walls and 
roof of cotton duck with screened window openings provided 


i8o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


with canvas curtains, is the usual form of construction. But 
when it comes to the arrangement of beds, cupboards, and 
special features, no two models are alike. Here the builder 
does his best to introduce the greatest possible number of 
novelties, to the end that his be the most unusual, not to say 
the most freakish pullman on the road. 

While the motor pullman is ideal for extended tours, it is 
not favored for the average vacation tour of two weeks, 
except by those motorists of a mechanical turn willing to 
expend effort for the satisfaction of trying out pet ideas. 

THE TRAILER 

is more popular than the motor pullman, it would seem, from 
the number one meets on the road. There are various makes, 
but the principle in all is the same, a two-wheeled cart of 
ample proportions to care for all camping equipment so the 
car may be reserved for rider comfort. Most models are 
compact and shipshape, but some of the home-made rigs are 
anything but neat. Much depends upon the design. The 
majority of trailers have beds that open out to the sides, and 
a canvas top which forms a tent. One model becomes a 
bungalow lo by 14 feet in size when set up, and contains 
two sleeping compartments with accommodations for two 
people each, clothes-lockers and racks of the pullman type, a 
kitchen cabinet, sink, gasoline range with oven and an ice- 
chest. Another that appeals to the fisherman, has a top 
which when removed and inverted becomes a flat-bottom 
boat. 

The Home-Made Trailer is a simple rig for a mechanic to 
devise. The front axle and wheels of a second-hand car are 


MOTOR-CAMPING 


i8r 


usually not difficult to obtain and with them in hand the 
job resolves itself into a problem of body construction. A 
close inspection of one or two models at a tourist camp is 
sufficient to give one the hang of the thing. 

An Objection to Trailers has been raised on the ground 
that they do not track readily and that it is difficult to 
back a car with a trailer attached. With improvements in 
couplers there is no longer a basis for either complaint. 
Motorists who have traveled extensively with trailer equip¬ 
ment claim in their favor an exceedingly low overhead with 
scarcely noticeable increase in gasoline consumption. There 
is one extra expense which must be charged up and that is 
the trailer license fee exacted in most States. 

CAR BEDS 

Next to motor pu liman berths and trailer bunks comes 
the car bed in point of comfort. For a party of two nothing 
better can be devised. It converts the car into a storm-proof 
sleeping compartment with provision for the amount of 
ventilation desired. It makes a tent unnecessary, though 
the lean-to is often pitched alongside for greater comfort in 
dressing and to provide storage space for equipment dis¬ 
placed by the bed. True, sleeping in the car hasn’t any of 
the romance of making your bed upon the ground where a 
stone, weed stalk, or twig prods you in the back or stomach 
at every move, the first night at least, and there is no possi¬ 
bility of awakening to find a snake curled up beneath your 
pillow; neither is there likelihood of your shelter parting 
company with you during a wind storm nor chance of a good 
drenching from a cloudburst. High above the ground with 


i82 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


mattress, car springs, and tires beneath, curtains or glass 
about you, and a substantial top above, almost the only 
adventure you can experience sleeping in a car is motor 
nightmare, and even this may be forestalled by parking on 
level ground and setting the brakes so they will surely hold. 
When you are the third member of a party you can take the 
lower ^‘berth’’ upon the ground, or a cot set up beside the 
running-board, then you wiU feel more like a real camper. 

One Type of Car Bed is designed for the enclosed car hav¬ 
ing folding front seats. It rests across the seats and comes 
below the windows, leaving plenty of room overhead. 

Another Type is made for the car without folding seats, 
and rests across the seat backs, as shown in the photograph 
of Fig. 291. 

A Home-Made Bed that is satisfactory is shown in Fig. 
293. Its frame is built up of i-inch iron pipe and pipe 
fittings (Figs. 294 and 295) and the covering is of lo-oz. 
cotton duck, (Fig. 296). You can get the two pieces of 
pipe A, four pieces B (Fig. 294), four T-fittings C, pair of 
unions Z), four street-Ls E, four nipples F and four floor 
flanges G (Fig. 295) at any plumbing shop. The size of the 
frame wiU be determined by the car the bed is for, and when 
you know this it will be a simple matter to figure the lengths 
to cut pieces of pipe A and B. Have the plumber thread 
the pipe as well as cut it. Then you can easily assemble the 
frame. 

Unions D provide for knocking down the frame for pack¬ 
ing. In assembling, coat the unions with} grease so they 
will screw on and off easily. 

The cotton duck cover (Fig. 296) has a deep hem along 





Fig. 310.—Hinged Tent Poles made 
INTO Pack for Running-Board 
OR Bumper. 


Fig. 291.—a Car Bed Accommodates Two and Makes 

A Tent Unnecessary. 


Courtesy “Outdoor Rerreaton.' 

Fig. 292.—But the Lean-To Tents and Cots are Preferred by 

MANY Motor Campers. 









utmmu 


MOTOR-CAMPING 


183 



Fig. 295. 




















184 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


each end to receive pipes A of the frame. Make the distance 
between hems such that the cover will stretch taut when the 
frame is set up. Hem the side edges, also, and attach tapes 
as shown with which to fasten the cover to the frame. 

Floor flanges G on the ends of nipples F screw to a pair of 
i-by-6 inch slats H which are made of the right length to 
extend over the sides of the car body, or to fit between the 



Fig. 297.—Some Motorists Saw and Hinge the Front Seat Back, to Form this Car 
Bed, But it Doesn’t Improve the Car’s Finish. 

sides of a closed car. Pad the under sides of the slat ends 
with felt or flannel to prevent their scratching the finish of 
the car. 

Another Scheme for a car bed is shown in Figs. 297 and 
298. The front seat-back is sawed down close to the car 
sides, as shown in Fig. 298, and hinged at the bottom and 
sides, the side hinges having loose pins which you withdraw 
when you wish to let down the back to make up the bed. 
Stilts support the seat back even with the rear seat (Fig. 










































MOTOR-CAMPING 


185 


297). The back combined with the two seats makes an 
excellent foundation for a bed, and it is further improved by 
spreading a cot pad or pneumatic mattress on top. Of 
course, this scheme is practical only for one of the cheaper 
metal seat-back types of open cars, the finish of which is not 
seriously impaired by the use of a hack-saw in cutting. 

CAMP COTS 

The modern army cot which folds into a pack 38 inches 
long, 8 inches wide and 6 inches thick is the popular form of 



motor camping cot, as its compactness makes it possible to 
carry two or three on the car’s running board, or a bundle of 
them strapped to either bumper. This is the equipment to 
take along, lacking the motor pullman, trailer, or car bed, 
unless you prefer to sleep on the ground on a pneumatic 
mattress, the car cushions, or a bed of pine boughs. 

A PNEUMATIC CAMP MATTRESS 

The so-called blow hag makes the most comfortable camp 
bed imaginable. It may be used on a car bed, a cot, or on 
the ground. There are several makes of mattresses, a 





















i86 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


popular form being just long enough to accommodate one’s 
head and body to the knees. The mattress is inflated with 
an auto pump, and when deflated makes a small rolh 

BEDDING 

One seldom takes too much bedding when motor-camping. 
The fault usually is in not having enough. The tempera¬ 
ture varies from night to night, and there must be enough 
bedding to provide for drops. Twice as many under-covers 
as covers is a good rule, especially for a camp cot, which is 
probably the coldest bed there is excepting a hammock, be¬ 
cause of the air space beneath. No matter how many over 
covers there are, if the cold penetrates from underneath, you 
awaken chilled through and with bones aching. Several 
thicknesses of newspaper spread over the cot, a poncho, and 
then a blanket make good insulation. 

Blankets containing 75 per cent, wool or better furnish the 
most warmth for the least bulk. 

A flour-sack stuffed with straw or grass, or underwear 
and other clothing makes a good pillow. 

TENTS 

All sorts of tents, including models of home design and 
manufacture, are seen in tourist camps, but the three most 
commonly used are the wall, lean-to, and umbrella tent. The 
photograph of the camp at Overland Park, Denver, Colorado, 
(Fig. 289) bears out this statement. 

The Wall Tent retains its popularity after years of use 
under varied conditions of camp life, including army service. 
It is a commodious tent with ample head room, and when 


MOTOR-CAMPING 


187 


properly set up weathers storms of violence. An 8 ft. by 10 
ft. wall tent will accommodate three cots, one across the 
rear wall and one along each side, leaving sufficient space in 
the center so one need not go outside to change his mind. 
There should be a tent fly or canopy (Fig. 299) for a sun 
shade, unless every day is to be spent in travel. 

One objection to the wall tent is the necessity for 



Fig. 299.—The Wall Tent Retains its Popularity Among Motor Campers. 


Tent Poles, a ridge-pole, and a pair of uprights. If camp is 
to be made in woods where poles are plentiful, there is no 
need to carry any, but do not expect to find a supply along 
roadsides or in tourist camps. They don’t exist there. If 
you can always be sure of a camp-site where you can drive 
within 10 or 12 feet of a tree, you may use a rope ridge, 
attaching one end to the tree, the other end to the car top. 
This method is entirely practical but allows the tent ridge 
to sag too much to suit the camper bent on having his tent 
shipshape. 


































i88 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Folding Tent Poles. If this caption gives you visions of 
your tenths collapsing, be assured that the poles are quite as 
rigid as one-piece poles when set up and bolted. You will 
see by the photograph of Fig. 310 (facing page 184) what 
a compact bundle they may be made into, one that is 
easily carried on the car’s running-board or bumper. 



—< I ^ - - 

k- 3 -3'^-H 


Fig.300. 


Fig. 301, 


Fig. 302. 


Fig.303. 



Fig.304. 



Figs, 300-305. —^This is the Way to Hinge the Tent Poles, to make 
the Pack Shown in Fig. 310 (facing page 184). 


A pair of iron strap hinges lo inches long, four 2-inch stove 
bolts and four i^-inch screws are required for each joint. 
Better buy an extra half-dozen stove holts to put in your 
camp repair kit for replacements in case bolts or nuts are 
lost on the trip. 

If you will saw the ridge-pole of a lo-foot tent into three 
equal lengths (Fig. 300) and the uprights into two equal 
lengths (Fig. 303), all pieces will be of approximately the 
same size. Instead of cutting the poles at right angles to 





































MOTOR-CAMPING 


189 

their edges, saw at an angle of 45 degrees. Place the pairs of 
hinges directly opposite one another and fasten in the manner 
shown in Figs. 301 and 304. Drill the stove-bolt holes with 
a gimlet or bit. Notice that one hinge flap at each joint is 
unbolted to permit folding (Figs. 302 and 305). These 
flaps will be held only by the pair of bolts. Fasten the 
other or fixed flaps with a screw in addition to the pair of 



Fig, 306.—The Lean-to Tent Pitched alongside the Car Becomes 
a Connecting Compartment. 

• 

bolts. Strap the folded poles together in one bundle with 
straps buckled around the ends (Fig. 310). 

The Lean-to Tent is gaining popularity among motorists, 
especially among friends of the camp bed, since when it is 
pitched alongside the car, with its front flap thrown over the 
car top as shown in Fig. 306 it becomes an adjoining apart¬ 
ment and also affords privacy to occupants of the car. This 
tent requires no poles, unless it is set up independently of 
the car, so the car may be reserved for driving to town or to 
surrounding points of interest. Jointed tent-poles may be 



















OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


190 

procured or a rope may be used to suspend the top between 
trees. 

The Umbrella Tent in Fig. 307 has been acclaimed the 
ideal automobile tent. Certainly it has much to recommend 
it, especially in regard to the ease with which it is erected. 
Some makes have a single center pole, others corner supports. 
The front fly may be raised as shown to form an awning, and 
side curtains or mosquito netting may be attached to the 



Fig. 307.—The Umbrella Tent is Ideal for Motor-Camping Because 
of the Ease with which it is Erected. 


edges to enclose a dining-room. This tent may also be used 
in connection with the car with the flap thrown over the car 
top. 

The Shelter Tent is not much used for motor-camping 
except when father and son or two lads go it alone. But I 
have used two shelter tents joined as shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 333, Chapter XXII, with two cots placed end 
to end, a satisfactory arrangement if the car is employed for 
a dressing-room. 












MOTOR-CAMPING 


191 

A Ground Cloth is an essential part of a tent to be used in 
mosquito-infested country. Sometimes it is sewed to the 
tent, but a better way is to have it separate, provided with 
snaps for attachment, since then you may remove it for 
cleaning or drying. 

A Mosquito-Netting Curtain for each cot is a good guard 
against nights of torture in mosquito country. It may be 
folded in half to form a wedge-shaped tent and the ridge 
pinned to the tent directly over the center of the cot. The 
netting must be long and wide enough to hang down over 
the ends and sides of the cot. When you are ready for bed, 
crawl in under the netting and fasten it to the edges of the 
cot with safety-pins. Then light your flashlight and search 
the crevices of the netting for mosquito stowaways. You 
can spend fifteen or twenty minutes profitably each night in 
arranging this inner mosquito tent and swatting the few 
pesky murderers of sleep that have flown in, then, at last, 
you can lie down with assurance of a night’s peaceful sleep, 
with only the music of the bloodthirsty horde to indicate 
their nearness. 

A Tent Bag. Most tents come in a compact roll that fits 
into a bag. Examine the folds when you first unpack a tent, 
then always fold and roll in the same way. A potato-sack 
will make a satisfactory cover for an 8 by 10 cotton duck 
tent. Models of lighter weight material such as balloon silk 
make a smaller roll, of course. 

STOVES 

The motorists’ cooking fire is generally of gas or wood. 
The gas flame is nearer to what mother is used to, is the 


192 . 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


quicker fire to start, and the easier for an inexperienced 
camper to tend. Especially is it appreciated in rainy weather 
when wood is wet, and on camp-grounds where wood is scarce, 
if not entirely lacking. One of the popular makes of gas 
stoves is 



Fig. 308.—The Gasoline Stove is Safe, may be used under Cover and is Essential 

in Camp Grounds where Wood is Lacking. 

The Two-Burner Gasoline Stove, shown in Fig. 308. 
Modern gasoline portable stoves are absolutely safe and 
dependable, and in wet weather may be used inside the tent. 
One of the advantages of the gasoline stove over stoves 
using other fuel is that it may be filled from the gasoline 
tank of your car by means of a siphon. A three-sided fold¬ 
ing wind-shield protects the flame from the wind. Other 
models have a warming-oven. 































































MOTOR-CAMriNG 


193 


The Camp Grate shown in Fig. 309 is one of the best wood- 
fire supports for pots, pans, and griddle, and is excellent for 
broiling. The frame is rigid when set up with legs stuck into 
the ground, and it folds flat for packing in the car. Plans 
for a home-made grate are shown in Figs. 434 to 436, 
Chapter XXIX. 




Fig. 309. —The Camp Grate is a Rigid Support and Folds Flat for Packing. 


FOOD SUPPLIES 


The motorist^s second camp trip generally includes a 
smaller quantity of provisions than the first, if the experience 
of bringing back fifty per cent, or more of the supplies counts 
for anything. Especially should a party go light in the 
matter of canned goods and bulky supplies, as almost every¬ 
thing needed can be purchased along the way at home prices 
and of desired brands. 










194 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


What to Have for Meals will depend upon the party’s 
tastes. With a gasoline stove to cook on, there is little 
reason for not providing about the same menus as are served 
at home, omitting dishes that require elaborate preparation, 
or reserving them for wet weather when there isn’t much to 
do. That is to say, if mother is along; if she isn’t, if the 
party consists of dad and you alone, there will be less variety. 

A REFRIGERATOR 

Fresh meats should be avoided unless they can be cooked 
and eaten before they have had a chance to spoil. A re¬ 
frigerator basket or running-board refrigerator with com¬ 
partment for ice that you can stock from day to day, is a 
worth while investment for the motor-camping trip, since 
it will preserve not only meats but milk and butter and an 
occasional brick of ice-cream should you crave such a treat. 

On last summer’s motor trip I saw 
A Fisherman s Refrigerator, which was nothing more than 
the family wash-boiler mounted upon the car’s running-board. 
With a cake of ice in the bottom, it provided cold-storage for 
the daily catch of fish and other food supplies as well. 

OTHER FOOD CONTAINERS 

may be found in tin cracker cans, syrup, cocoa and baking- 
powder cans, salt-bags,and flour-sacks. Fruit jars are handy 
because of their screw tops, but there is always the possi¬ 
bility of breaking the glass. Avoid paper packages by all 
means, unless you have a metal container or cloth sack to 
keep them in. Take pepper and spices put up in sifter-top 
containers. 




Fig. 312.—A Running-Board Rack will hold Tent, Poles, Cots, 

Axe, and Gasoline Stove. 



Fig. 313.—a Running-Board Box. 















-4 





, ♦ 








• 1 • 


■ » 



' -t' 






> ^ 


% 


ft 


t 


4 


X 




i 







i 


V 





* t 







MOTOR-CAMPING 


195 


A KITCHEN CABINET 

Various types of cabinets are on the market, some com¬ 
plete with refrigerator compartment. These are made for 
the running-board and for a rear rack. The latter type 
rnake it necessary to change the position of the spare tire to 
the forward part of the left running-board, where a bracket 
must be provided to hold it; the former require no change 
in the equipment. 



Fig. 316. Fig. 314. 

Fig. 314.—Cross-Section of Running-Board Kitchen Cabinet Shown in Fig. 311. 
Fig. 315.—Detail of Hinged Drop-Leaf. 

Fig. 316.—Back View of Cabinet. 

A Home-made Cabinet like that in Fig. 311 is a simple rig 
to knock together, and you can build one to fit the car while 
father is struggling with business matters preparatory to 
breaking away for the trip. 

Figure 314 shows a cross-section of the cabinet. Fig. 315 
a detail of the door or drop-leaf and Fig. 316 a view of the 
back. The height and width dimensions are not given, 
since they must be determined by the car the cabinet is for. 
However, bottom A and shelves B may be of boards 8 inches 





































196 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


wide, sides C of pieces 9 inches wide, top of a lo-inch 
board. Back £ is a piece of wallboard and the drop-leaf has 
a panel (/) of the same material. 

The diagrams show how the bottom and shelves fasten 
between the end boards, and how the wallboard back is 
tacked to their edges and to the edge of the top shelf. Note 
the projecting ends of the top shelf. Strip F is a hinge-strip, 
strip G supports the cupboard catch latch-pocket. 

Make a frame of strips II and / (Fig. 315) for the drop-leaf 
and tack the wallboard panel J to it. Hinge the drop-leaf 
and apply the cupboard catch and check-chain as shown. 

Finish the cabinet to match the car. A half-pint of auto 
enamel will be enough,|if the cabinet is first primed with two 
coats of black oil paint, as it should be. Some motorists 
cover their cabinets with black oilcloth, but enamel makes 
the neater job. 

Fasten the cabinet to the running-board with bolts run 
through holes bored through the cabinet bottom and the 
running board, and wire the back to a door-handle. 

UTENSILS 

With careful planning,one’s cooking and eating tools and 
utensils will not add much bulk to the outfit. Indeed, if the 
pieces are to be purchased, it is possible to get sets that nest 
in one another at little more than the cost of the single pieces. 
Aluminum ware is best and with care will last indefinitely. 
There should be a water pail (two are handy and will nest) 
wash-basin, kettle, frying pan, coffee pot, plates (pie tins do 
nicely), cups, spoons, knives, forks, pancake-turner, can- 
opener and thermos bottle or jug. 


MOTOR-CAMPING 


197 


CLOTHING 

Nothing better than the Boy Scout^s uniform can be had 
for motor-camping, so if you are a scout you are well- 
equipped. Of course, if you are not a scout, you may not 
wear the regulation uniform, but you can buy khaki trousers 
and shirt almost anywhere. More comfortable clothing than 
khaki cannot be had, and it can be obtained in all sizes for 
all members of the party, with knickers or skirts for mother 
and sister. 

There is a difference of opinion as to the best under cloth¬ 
ing for motor-camping. The majority of campers favor 
light-weight woolens, but to boys who wear cotton the year 
round wool is usually uncomfortable, if not unbearable, and 
unless the trip is to be made in severe weather, it is not a bad 
plan to take the garments one is used to, depending on a 
sweater and waistcoat for chilly evenings. Two changes of 
socks and underclothing are the rule, one to be washed when 
the other has been put on. 

Shoes should be of the army Munson last, to be comfort¬ 
able, and should be broken in before the trip. One pair is 
enough with a pair of rubbef-soled tennis shoes for alternates, 
and rubbers or boots for wet weather. 

A Poncho or raincoat should be part of the personal 
equipment. The poncho is preferable because it spreads out 
flat and* may be used for a waterproof covering, curtain, 
ground cloth, under-cover for a cot, and for other purposes. 

SUNDRY NEEDS 

Camping Sundries should include a lantern, hand axe, 
shovel, clothesline, ball of twine, adhesive tape, screw-top 


198 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


can of nails, screws and hooks, camp stool or two, and first-aid 
outfit. 

Automobile Sundries that should be added to,the tool-box 
include a tow rope, an emergency can of oil and one of gaso¬ 
line, extra fan belt, rags or waste, can of cup grease, tire 
tube and patches, box of extra lamp bulbs, and extension 
drop cord. 

Personal Sundries are largely optional but, some of the 
following items find their way into every motor-camper’s 
pack: Toilet articles, flash-lamp and extra battery, matches, 
fishing tackle, hunting outfit, collapsible cup or canteen, one- 
half dozen 4-inch safety-pins, mosquito dope, camera, films 
and tripods, radio set, phonograph, and first-aid kit.^ 

PACKING THE OUTFIT 

If the motor-camping outfit is to be carried in and on the 
car, some scheming is necessary to make a neat-appearing 
load and one that does not interfere with riding comfort. 
One could take lessons from a moving-van gang who have 
the knack of sizing up their problem quickly and packing a 
load so that every available inch of space is utilized. How¬ 
ever, daily unloading and loading will teach you many things 
and you will have a good arrangement for the outfit before 
the return trip is ended unless you fall into the slovenly 
habits of many tourists and pile things into the tonneau, 
hit or miss, and throw the tent upon the running-board or 
fender without any attempt to fold it. This is not likely, 
though, if father or the whole family are your companions. 

A kitchen cabinet to hold food supplies may be carried on 

1 Suggestions for a vest-pocket first-aid kit are given in Cliapter 12. 




MOTOR-CAMPING 


199 


either rear rack or running-board, preferably the left-hand 
running-board, as has been suggested. The tent and poles, 
cots, stools, axe and other equipment may be packed behind 
A Running-Board Rack on the left-hand running-board 
(Fig. 312),and covered with a poncho, pup tent, or tent flap 
to protect them from road dust, and 

Duffle Bags similar to the army barracks bag may be loaded 
with boots and shoes, sweaters, bathing suits, and slippers, 
mosquito netting, bedclothes and pillows, and carried be¬ 
tween the car hood and fenders, with the draw-strings 
fastened to the headlight brackets, as shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 313. Blankets folded to the right dimensions 
may best be carried upon or under the car seats. 

If you will remove the rear seat foot-rail, you will have 
additional space for equipment and you may suspend 
pockets from the under side of the car top for miscellaneous . 
articles. 


RUNNING-BOARD BOXES 

You may utilize the space between the running-board and 
bottom of the right-hand doors by providing 
A Home-Made Running-Board Box, similar to the one 
shown in the photograph of Fig. 313. The box makes a 
higher step by some 6 or 7 inches, but this is not objection¬ 
able, and is offset by the big advantage of additional space 
for equipment. Such a box may be filled with car tools and 
equipment. I have used one for fishing tackle, camera, and 
photographic supplies. 

Figures 317 and 318 show the construction of the home¬ 
made box. The dimensions of the pieces will be determined 


200 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


by the car the box is made for. Be sure to leave enough 
clearance between the top of the cover and the car door so 
the door will open without scraping the cover. 

The detail shows how the cover should be hinged, and 
how its top may be covered with battleship linoleum to 



Fig. 317. —Detail of Running-Board Box shown in Fig. 313. 



TOP 




END 

SIDES 

end 




bottom 


Fig. 318.—Diagram of Parts. Car will Determine the Dimensions. 

match the running-board, and the edge of the linoleum 
bound with aluminum stripping, such as is used on running- 


boards. 

The box may have a bottom or not, as you please. Omit¬ 
ting this will save something in the height, but rain will run 
in and the contents must be kept in tin or other watertight 










MOTOR-CAMPING 


201 


containers. Fasten a .bottomless box with iron brackets 
screwed to the box ends and running-board, a box with 
bottom with screws driven through the bottom into the 
running-board. Finish the box with auto enamel to match 
the car. 

MAKING AND BREAKING CAMP 

A motor-camping party may plan its daily stops, but 
many things happen on the road to play havoc with a 
schedule, and stops must often be made in unknown parts. 
Punctures, detours, and cloudbursts are three schedule¬ 
breaking bugbears which every camper must become familiar 
with. It is well to have it a hard and fast rule to 
Make Camp an Hour Before Sunset, or earlier, unless you 
know that a tourist camp is a short distance ahead. The 
question of where to stop should be considered early in the 
afternoon. If you must make a stop on the roadside, give 
first attention to 

The Water Supply. Well pumps are numerous along the 
road, but beware of them. Enough cases of typhoid have 
been traced to these sources to warrant motor clubs sending 
out motor details in company with health officers to test 
wells and placard those of impure water, but these tests 
have not been general. Boiling the water is the motorist’s 
surest way of protecting the party. This caution applies to 
mountain streams as well. Years ago, while camping with 
a party in a canon of the Rocky Mountains, I enjoyed for 
days the clear, sparkling water from the river, to be dis¬ 
illusioned later by finding a dead horse a short distance up¬ 
stream, over which the water had been washing for nobody 
knew how long. 


202 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Obtain Permission to Camp upon private property, and 
inquire what charge, if any, may be expected, before pitch¬ 
ing camp. Sometimes an owner asks only a nominal fee, 
again, if a farmer, he considers the purchase of milk and 
eggs, perhaps butter, sufficient compensation for the use of 
his ground. The chosen site should be on high ground away 
from open sewers and other objectionable features. 

Tourist Camp Grounds have become the solution of the 
motor-tourist problem in most communities. A fee of 50 
cents or so a day is the charge of the better camps, which 
sum goes into a fund for ground-equipment and policing. 
By policing is meant not only the guarding of property of 
motorists against vandalism, but the cleaning up of filth left 
by that disgustingly careless and unappreciative portion of 
the motor-camping public who abuse the privileges granted 
them. That you may never be classed with this undesira¬ 
ble element, be scrupulous in regard to the condition of your 
camp site. You will find tin cans left by a former camper, 
possibly. Pick them up and dispose of them with your own 
refuse and leave a clean spot for the next camper. You 
may receive no credit for this, but at least you will not be 
blamed for the cans left by your predecessor. 

Breaking Camp requires about twice as long as making 
camp, you will find; therefore, unless you are systematic, 
your plan to pull out of camp early every morning will not 
be realized. 



Of course, you will take your radio set next time you go 
camping, for no matter how busily occupied with camp 
routine you will find time for music. Years ago only the 
party with a musician could have music, and the quality 
and variety depended upon the performer and the instru¬ 
ment. Then came the phonograph and canned music that 
took the world’s best selections to all corners of the earth, 
and the portable set, a convenient size for packing. The 
phonograph became one of the much-sought-after features 
of summer resorts and country homes, and established the 
public’s habit of having music in playtime. Naturally, then 
with the development of wireless telegraphy and the estab¬ 
lishment of broadcasting stations that furnished varied 
and novel programs, radio set up strong competition with 
the phonograph and largely replaced it. 

It is impossible to estimate the number of radio sets in¬ 
cluded in vacation outfits, but it is safe to assume that the 
proportion nearly equals that of radio fans among the public, 
a large percentage, indeed. When the radio set is left be¬ 
hind as non-essential equipment, it is usually the thing you 
long most for. Father may put his foot down on your 
taking the set on the family motor-camping trip, but at the 
close of day he will miss his newspaper and wish that he had 

203 
























204 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


at least the late news items, stock reports, and baseball scores 
that the radio supplies; mother will miss the daily household 
talks; little brother or sister will cry for the bedtimes stories; 
and all will envy the radio-equipped tourists on the road. 

Broadcasting stations are so well distributed over the 
country that no matter in what direction or how far a party 
travels, it is possible to tune in one or more stations, recep¬ 
tivity depending upon the efficiency of the receiver. 

The Crystal Set is the most compact outfit to take along, 
and there is less to injure about it in outdoor handling than 
there is about tube sets. However, because of its limited 
range of 25 miles, it is only practical when the trip is in the 
vicinity of broadcasting centers. If you know your itiner¬ 
ary, this is a matter easy to determine in advance. For an 
overnight hike within 14 or 15 miles of a city having a broad¬ 
casting station, the crystal set is the handier outfit to take, 
and the same holds true if an organized camp which you are 
going to attend is located within range of a radio station. 

The One-Tube Set is the popular portable outfit, but if 
you were to look into the matter in any of the public tourist 
camps, you would probably find every type of set, including 
superhetrodynes and all other ^‘dynes.” 

Portable Sets are often hooked up especially for the camp¬ 
ing tour. In fact, motor-camping gives the radio fan an 
excuse for adding another set to his collection, or of tearing 
down a set and using the parts for a portable hook-up. Any 
hook-up efficient indoors will be efficient outdoors. 

The average fan is content to take along his regular set 
without alteration, except to provide some sort of carrying 
case to hold it, batteries, phones, and spare parts. 


YOUR RADIO IN CAMP 


205 


CARRYING CASES 

To protect the set from the weather and the cabinet and 
dials from injury, there should be 

A Waterproof Cover of oilcloth or rubber sheeting sewed in 
the form of a case, with snaps by which to fasten it over the 
cabinet, or better than this 

A Carrying Case made of a suit-case. Fiber-board suit- 



Fig. 319.—Suit-Case for Your Radio Set, Batteries, Head-Phones, 

and Spare Parts. 


cases are not expensive and are easily remodeled for the 
purpose. A school-book carrying case is often large enough 
for a small set. 

Figure 319 shows a suit-case remodeled to hold a radio 
set, batteries, phones, and spare parts; Fig. 320 shows how 
to extend the back of the case, if the depth isn’t sufficient 
for the set, and Fig. 321 shows a detail of the shelf. 

Cut the shelf board (A, Fig. 321) of the width of the base 
of the radio set, and of the inside length of the suit-case. 


































































2o6 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


then set it in position at the right height so the cabinet will 
fit between it and the top of the case. If you find that the 
suit-case is too shallow, as you possibly may, mark where 



Fig. 320. —How to Extend the Back of the Suit-Case, 
if it is not Deep Enough for the Set. 



Fig. 321. —Make the Shelf Wide Enough for the Set and Enclose 
the Space Above it with Wall Board. 

the under side of the shelf strikes the bottom of the case,, cut 
through the case along this line and along the ends, and 
bend the piece up. Then fasten the shelf between the ends 
of the suit-case with nails, and enclose the space between it 
and the bent-up piece with wallboard or other fibre board, 










































































YOUR RADIO IN CAMP 


207 


binding the pieces together with strips of linen coated with 
glue and lapped over the edges. Nail cleats to the bottom 
of the suit-case, as shown, so the front can be opened without 
upsetting the case. 

Figure 319 suggests how to partition off the space below 
the shelf for the batteries and head-phones. Fasten the 

radio cabinet with screws driven through the shelf into the 

* 

base, and strap in the batteries as indicated. 

BATTERIES AND SPARE PARTS 

A set requiring a storage battery is a good set for motor¬ 
camping since connections may be made with the car bat¬ 
tery, providing this is of the correct voltage, a matter to look 
into before making the hook-up. The advantage of using 
this battery is that the amount of current consumed is more 
than offset by recharging on the following day’s drive. 

That there may be no grief as a result of dead “B” bat¬ 
teries or burned-out tubes, carry one or two extras. 

THE AERIAL 

There are several satisfactory ways of installing camp and 
watercraft aerials. 

Tree Aerials. One scheme consists of attaching one end 
of insulated wire to a high branch of a tree, as shown in Fig. 
322. In wooded and low land, the higher you can attach 
the end the better. Climb a tree to a top branch and fasten 
the wire to the limb with an insulator set in between; or, 
throw a fishing-line with a stone tied to its end over a high 
branch, replace the stone with the insulator on the wire end, 
and pull the wire up to the branch. 


2o8 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A Trek-Cart Aerial for use on hikes is shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. i68, Chapter XI, and Figs. 169 to 171 show 
how to rig up the mast. 

A Car Aerial for use along the road, may be made by 
stringing 100 feet of insulated bell-wire around the inside of 
the car top, or several loops of wire around posts fastened 
to the car top, or by suspending wires between masts 
supported by front and rear bumpers; or a. fishing-reel 



Fig. 322.—In Wooded or Low Land the Higher You Fasten Your Aerial, the Better. 

wound with small insulated copper wire may be carried on 
the front of the car, and at the halt for the day the wire may 
be unwound and connected to a tree branch. 

The Loop Aerial may be used on the motor-car on a 
motor-boat or other water craft, or in camp. It is not as 
efficient as the single-wire aerial, and should not be hooked 
up with a set having fewer than three tubes. 

Water-Craft Aerials may be rigged up in one of the ways 
suggested for the motor-car. The loop aerial is commonly 

























YOUR RADIO IN CAMP 


209 


used. An efficient aerial for an anchored craft is made by 
attaching the end of a wire to a tree on shore, then unreeling 
the wire, which should be small enough to wind upon a 
fishing-reel, and dropping anchor. 

Another form of water aerial is 
The Dragging Wire Aerial, consisting of 30 feet or so of 
waterproof wire with one end sealed in a small bottle by 



means of wax. Throw the bottle end of the wire into the 
water and connect the other end to the radio set. 

GROUNDS 

The best ground for a camp aerial is a pipe 5 feet long 
driven into moist earth (Fig. 322). But with a tree aerial, 
like that illustrated in Fig. 323, you may form a ground by 
driving a nail into the tree trunk near its base. For a motor¬ 
car, ground the set to the car body. For water craft, use a 
piece of bare copper wire, throwing 10 feet or so of the length 

overboard. 




















210 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


LOUD SPEAKERS 

The loud speaker is not as practical outdoors as indoors, 
because of the noise. Certainly the tourist camp is no place 
for it, if other radio fans in the vicinity are bent on listening 
in on different stations, a situation sometimes encountered, 
with a phonograph or two adding to the bedlam. 

A LIGHTNING-ARRESTER 

There are people who fear an outdoor aerial because they 
believe it will attract lightning. If the aerial is properly 
grounded through a lightning-arrester, as required by fire 
underwriters, the building that has an aerial in close proxim¬ 
ity is better protected than the one without. In the same 
way, the camp with an aerial and lightning-arrester is better 
protected from bolts than the camp without. Lightning 
often strikes a tree in the woods, as you know, crashing it 
to the ground, and not infrequently killing a party camped 
beneath it. An aerial with arrester, connected to a high tree 
near your tent is excellent protection against lightning. 



There is no excuse for not owning a tent or having part 
ownership in a tent, and consequently no reason for fore¬ 
going camping for lack of equipment. Perhaps army tents 
are not available through local dealers, but you will find 
them advertised by mail-order houses, the so-called ^^Army 
Stores”. These tents are known as 

RECLAIMED TENTS 

Following the close of the war in 1918,Thousands of army 
tents were thrown on the market. They are not so plentiful 
now, but they are to be had, and at much lower prices than 
new tents. There is no need to suspect that a reclaimed 
army tent may be full of holes because this used tentage has 
been examined and mended with water-proof patches where 
torn or worn, and most of it is in good condition. 

The fact that these tents have seen service enhances their 
value to most boys. A Boy Scout given first choice of fifty 
army shelter tents, or pup tents^ selected the worst-looking 
one of the lot. This surprised me at first, then I discovered 
red stains, more than likely ink or paint stains, and I got the 
idea. The scout admitted that he knew the tent had not 
been overseas, that he knew old blood-stains are not red, yet 
it didn’t require a vivid imagination to furnish the battle¬ 
ground setting. He got his tent, and with it as ^‘exhibit A” 

2II 


























212 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


broadcasted a thrilling tale that readily impressed a credulous 
younger brother and other small lads of the neighborhood. 

The used tent bears no resemblance to dude equipment. 
There is no need to drag it around in the dirt to give it 
atmosphere. It looks seasoned, and a fellow having one can 
easily pass for a veteran camper. 

A TENT OF UTILITY 

The shelter tent of the army type, commonly known as 
the pup tent is recognized as the best form of temporary 
cover, and because of its cheapness and the ease with which 
it can be transported, it is well adapted to the boy’s purpose. 

It is intended for two men, but it will accommodate three 
boys, and in an emergency I have put four into it. Since it 
is made in two sections or shelter halves, it is a good plan for 
two boys to go fifty-fifty in the purchase, and each to be 
responsible for his half. On the basis of joint ownership, 
even a new tent costing in the neighborhood of ^3.50 should 
be within the means of every boy. The price quoted in¬ 
cludes poles and pins. Reclaimed tents range in price from 
^2.75 down. 


TENT POLES 

Reclaimed “pups” are usually sold without poles or pins, 
which is no great matter, for these are easily made. In fact, 
many prefer to cut poles and stakes on the camp site to 
packing them on a hike. 

In Fig. 325 is shown 

The Correct Length for poles. Remember this dimension, 
then you will not have to guess at it when in the woods. 


USING A SHELTER TENT 


213 


Better still, note where this measurement comes upon your 
clothes, with reference to coat or shirt buttons; then if you 
haven’t a rule with you, it will not be necessary to resort to 
finger spans or other make-shift means of measurement. . 

Tree-Branch Poles i inch in diameter will do. A broom- 
handle is a trifle too short, though of the right diameter. 
Mop handles, garden-implement handles, rug poles, curtain 
poles, and fishing-poles, selected from discards, of course, 
may be used for home-made poles. Drive a nail or screw 
into the top of each (Fig. 325) to slip through the grommets 
at the ends of the tent ridge. 

A Regulation Tent Pole is made in three sections, hinged 
to fold for transporting (Figs. 326 and 327). A pair of these 
collapsible poles is not difficult to make. Cut two poles 44 
inches long, and taper them from i inch thick at one end to 
^-inch thick at the other end (Fig. 328). Then cut three 
pieces 14^ inches long from each pole (Fig. 329). Drive a 
nail or round-head screw into the upper end of the top piece 
(Aj Fig. 326), and saw a i-inch slot in the lower end. Saw 
a I-inch slot in each end of the middle piece (B, Fig. 329), 
and a slot in the upper end of the bottom piece. 

Cut two hinge plates of heavy brass, by the pattern of 
Fig. 330, punch a pair of holes where indicated and fasten 
these plates in the slotted ends with brass escutcheon pins. 
A sleeve made of a piece of brass tubing of the size of E (Fig. 
331) must be provided to slip over each hinge joint, to make 
the pole rigid when set up. Drive a short escutcheon pin 
or round-head screw into the pole sections, at the right 
points to keep the sleeves from sliding beyond the required 
distance (Fig. 327). 


214 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Fig. 327. 



Fig. 325. Fig. 326. 


Fig. 328. Fig. 331. 


Fig. 329. 


Fig. 325.—The Correct Length for Shelter Tent Poles. 
Fig. 326.—A Regulation Collapsible Pole. 

Fig. 327.—How the Pole Folds. 

Fig. 328-331. —Details of Home-Made Pole. 






















































Fig. 332.—The Shelter or Pup Tent is Well Adapted to Joint 
Ownership. Each Boy Owns and Packs a Shelter Half. 


Fig. 333.—Pitched Tandem, the Shelter Tent will Accommodate 
FROM Four to Six Boys, According to the Degree of Sleepiness. 


Fig. 334.—Walls Increase the Head Room of the Shelter Tent. 





USING A SHELTER TENT 


215 


PITCHING A SHELTER TENT 

There seems to be some misunderstanding about the 
method of pitching a shelter tent. Some boys think a ridge¬ 
pole is necessary. It is not, because with the poles stayed 
with guy-ropes front and back, as shown in the photograph 
of Fig. 332, the doubled canvas ridge can be pulled taut and 
nearly straight. 

First, spread the shelter halves upon the ground, with 
points extended as shown in Fig. 335. Then bring the 




Fig. 335.—A Shelter Half. 

Fig. 336. —Two Shelter Halves Buttoned along the Ridge. 

button edges of the pair together, as shown in Fig. 336 and 
button the double row of buttons along the ridge, and bring 
together the edges of the points and button them. Set up 
one pole with the screw in its end slipped into the front edge 
grommet, and while you hold the pole vertical have your 
tent-mate stake the front corners. Then run a guy-rope 
attached to the loops on the front edge of the tent ridge to a 
stake driven in line with and several feet from the tent-pole. 
Next, erect the rear pole, stake the rear corners of the tent 














2i6 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


and run a rear guy-rope from the rear ridge loop to a stake 
several feet back of the tent. A stake through the center 
loop on each side of the tent completes the work, unless it is 
found necessary to re-drive a stake or two to take up slack¬ 
ness. 

Omitting the Poles. If you can find two trees 14 feet or 
so apart, on your camp-site, you can fasten the guy-ropes 
directly to them as shown in Fig. 338 and omit the poles. 
With the poles omitted, the space within the tent will be 
unobstructed. 



The regulation shelter tent is not provided with 
Front Flaps, but you may make a pair if you wish, using the 
rear flaps for a pattern. Front flaps are not required for 
fair weather, or for rainy weather if you have a poncho or 
other rain-coat to wrap up in. Two of us camped out one 
night in a pup tent in a torrent of rain, on sloping ground 
that we had failed to trench around the tent, and though 
rivulets of water beneath the ground-cloth all but floated it 
and us away and rain beat in the open end, we came through 
the experience dry except for spattered faces. 
















USING A SHELTER TENT 


217 


Better than front flaps is 

A Mosquito-Netting Front. A piece of marquisette, bobbi- 
net, cheesecloth or mosquito netting will do. This may be 
fastened with tapes run through the button-holes on the 
front edges of the tent, or with safety-pins. To make the 
tent mosquito-tight, there must be 



A Ground-Cloth large enough to turn up at the sides and 
rear to close the openings below the tent edges. If you 
fellows have ponchos, the pair will be just the thing. 

SHELTER TENTS PITCHED TANDEM 

For stormy weather two shelter tents may be joined end 
to end as illustrated in the photograph of Fig. 333, so both 
ends may be closed. Buttons and button-holes on the front 
edges of the shelter halves make this possible. This tandem 



































































2i8 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


tent arrangement will accommodate six sleepy boys; but 
they must be sleepy, otherwise, three will be a crowd. When 
the weather permits, say between showers, unbutton the 
tent flaps and a portion of the ridge for ventilation, (Fig. 

333 )- 

A SHELTER TENT WITH WALLS 

If you want to set up a shelter tent for any length of time, 
you might make a wall tent similar to that shown in the 
photograph of Fig. 334. This arrangement increases the 
head room and permits the use of two cots placed side by 
side. Figure 337 shows how to make the wall framework 
with stakes driven at the five corners and poles fastened 
across the tops. Support the ridge with a rope attached to 
two trees, as shown in Fig. 338, or with poles, two at, the 
front and one at the rear, as shown in Fig. 334. Fasten the 
poles with nails and rope, and spike the lower ends of the 
ridge supports to stakes driven into the ground at their outer 
ends. 

With the framework set up, slip the shelter tent over the 
poles, and fasten it to the wall-poles with cords. Use burlap 
bags, pieces of carpet, or any other material that you can 
get for the walls. Sew the pieces together or tack their 
edges here and there with cord. Fasten the wall-covering 
along the wall-plates with carpet-tacks and weight the bot¬ 
tom with poles or stones. 

The Open Front of the shelter wall-tent may be enclosed 
with burlap or any material that you can pick up. If you 
can place this improvised tent with its open front against 
the wall of a building, the other or enclosed end may be used 
for the doorway. 


USING A SHELTER TENT 


219 


This tent is better suited to a near-to-home camp than to 
the woods, because of the pick-up material required for the 
walls. Clothes-poles, rug-poles, and handles of garden im¬ 
plements may be used in the framework if tree-branches are 
not available. 

Fig. 340. 




Fig. 341. 

Figs. 339-341.—This is the Way to Make a Shelter-Half Roll. 

A SHELTER-HALF ROLL 

A haversack ordinarily will take a blanket, shelter half, 
and such other necessities as one packs on a hike, but perhaps 
you haven’t this equipment. The next best way of carrying 
your outfit is in a horse-collar roll thrown across the shoulder 









































































































2 20 OUTDOOR BOY C;^AFTSMEN 

as illustrated in the photograph of Fig. 177, Chapter XII. 
Figures 339 to 343 show the steps in making a shelter-half 
roll. Spread the shelter half upon the ground with the 
point extended (Fig. 339). Fold your blanket two ways, 
place it across the shelter half and arrange your tent poles, 
coat and toilet articles upon the blanket. Fold over the 
point as'shown in Fig. 340, turn over 3 inches of the side 
edges and 4 inches of the foot, as shown, and then beginning 



Fig. 342. 

Fig. 342.—Slip the Roll into Pocket Formed at Foot, Like This. 

Fig. 343.—Tie the Ends of the Roll Like This, So It will Carry on the Shoulder. 



at the head, roll up the shelter half into a tight roll (Fig. 
341). At the foot the turned over edges will form a pocket 
that will receive the roll (Fig. 342). 

Figure 343 shows how to connect the ends of the roll \vrith 
a piece of wrapping-twine 

To Form the Horse-Collar. The length of the twine should 
be adjusted to accommodate the body. The shelter half so 
folded makes a short roll. A longer roll may be made by 
rolling the shelter half the long way. 








To BUILD a tree hut is probably one of your cherished am¬ 
bitions. The romance of the thing is akin to that of caves, 
desert islands, and airships. You have been fed on them in 
books of adventure, have seen them in moving-pictures; 
now, actually to own one would be thrilling indeed. It 
would be something different from what the other fellows 
have, and an invitation to spend the night with you would 
. be sought by every lad in town. 

Building tree huts is not a new boy activity. In fact, it 
was more common some years ago than now, before radio 
and other modern hobbies came in for a share of leisure time. 
But if you were to travel about the country, you would dis¬ 
cover many successfully built huts, and you would see, too, 
a surprisingly large number of unfinished huts, some nothing 
more than platforms. This might indicate a loss of interest 
among the builders, but if you were to investigate you would 
find, no doubt, that lack of material had halted operations. 
Using only the material at hand, it is easy for the amateur 
builder to be deceived in the amount of lumber required. 

A swaying tree is conducive to sound sleeping and at the 

same time it furnishes some of the thrills of ocean and air 

travel. But to sleep on a platform without walls or other 

protection, one must be a bird, indeed, for rolling out of such 

221 





















222 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


a nest is hazardous before one’s wings have grown. A 
resourceful boy, however, would not be deterred by such a 
trifle as that. More than likely it would occur to him to 
complete the nest by pitching a tent upon it as shown in 
Fig. 347. The idea is a good one, and because shelter tents 
and other small tents are often owned by boys, it should be 
an inspiration to those of you who spend your summer 
vacation in the woods or have a suitable tree in your home 
yard, and lack only the material for the shelter. 

A TREE PLATFORM 

Figure 344 shows a platform built between two trees. 
This is simple to erect, but if you can find three or four trees 
close enough to span with the framework, less bracing will 
be required. A single tree generally presents a more difficult 
problem, although you will sometimes find a tree with limbs 
spread just right to support a framework. Possibly you 
will need to modify the details of construction shown in the 
illustration to meet different conditions, but you should have 
no trouble in doing this. 

Old Lumber will serve as well as new, provided it is sound. 
Two-by-fours should be used for the trusses. The width of 
the floor boards is not important. 

Figure 345 shows a cross-section of 
The Platform Supports, with the parts lettered. The start 
of the framework is shown in Fig. 346. First, spike a pair 
of uprights (A), to opposite sides of both trees, with the tops 
at the same height. Across the tops rest horizontal mem¬ 
bers B, and spike them to the trees; and 18 inches below 


A TREE PLATFORM, TENT, AND HUT 223 

spike members C. .Blocks D are separators fitted between 
pieces C. 

The next step is cutting 



Fig. 344. —For a Sleeping-Platform Enclose the Side with Poultry-Netting, because 
Rolling out of this Nest is Hazardous, before Wings have Sprouted, at Least. 

The Platform Joists (jE, Fig. 345) and spiking them to the 
tops of horizontal pieces B. When these are in place, cut 
The Struts F, notching the lower ends to fit over members 
C and the upper ends to fit flush with the ends of joists E. 


























































































































224 


OUTDOOR ROY CRAFTSMEN 


The Floor is nothing to lay when the. joists have been set 
and braced. Figure 344 suggests how to erect 
A Railing around the four sides of the platform. In addition 


Fig. 345. 



Fig. 346. 

Fig. 345. Cross-Section of the Platform, Showing Trusses. 
Fig. 346. —Start of the Framework. 


to this, enclose the sides with poultry-netting, tree-branches, 

or wooden strips, with the exception of the comer for the 
ladder. 















































































A TREE PLATFORM, TENT, AND HUT 


225 


A TREE TENT 

A tree platform with pup tent shelter is shown in Fig. 347. 
The Framework may be similar to that for the platform 
in Fig. 344, but the working detail (Fig. 348) shows a slightly 



Fig. 347.—A Tree Tent makes Good Sleeping Quarters. 


different form of construction. First, spike the 2-by-4 rails, 
across the trees 4 feet or so below the height determined 
on for the platform, allowing the ends to project beyond one 
tree to support the lower landing. Then construct 


















































226 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Two End Trusses above the plates with crosspieces 
B and struts C, cutting the lower ends of struts C to fit 
against the trees and rails A, and spiking the members to 
one another and to the trees. 



I^iG. 348.—Detail of Platform and Ladders for Tree Tent. 


Spike the Joists {D) to the top of the trusses, one to each 
side of the tree trunks and a pair across the truss ends. 

Nail the Floor Boards to the joists, fitting them around 
the tree trunks as shown. 

Ladders. Figures 347 and 348 suggest two forms of lad¬ 
ders, the lower one of ropes (G) with i-by-2 rungs {H) fas- 

























































A TREE PLATFORM, TENT, AND HUT 


227 


tened between, the upper one with 2-by-4 rails (/) and i-by-2 
rungs (/). In building the rope ladder, drive nails through 
the ropes into the rung ends, and reinforce the joinings with 
lashings of heavy twine. A crosspiece spiked to the ends of 
rails A {F, Fig. 348) will keep the rope ladder in position. 
Spike the ends of the upper ladder to rails A and the tree. 

An advantage of the rope ladder is that it may be drawn 
up for the night, and when you are away and do not want 
your nest molested. 



Fig. 349.—A Simpler Platform Construction. 


A Simpler Platform Construction is shown in the detail of 
Fig. 349. Use this plan if your building material is limited. 
First, spike the blocks A to opposite sides of the tree sup¬ 
ports, across the blocks spike the pair of plates B, pieces of 
2-by-4 or 2-by-6, and to the tops of these spike the 2-by-4 
joists C. Spike one joist to each side of each tree and space 
the intermediate joists about 2 feet apart. It only remains 
to floor over the joists. 

With the platform completed, it is a simple matter 
To Erect the Tent. Spike a pole or piece of 2-by-4 across 





































228 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


the trees at the right height for the tent ridge {K, Fig. 348), 
and fasten the tent securely to the platform all around. If 
you have an open-front tent, such as the shelter tent (Fig. 
347), provide a flap of mosquito-netting that may be fas- 



Fig. 350. —Sooner or Later You will Wish to Convert your Platform 

into a Hut Like This. 

tened down after everybody is as a precaution against 
possible sleep-walking. 

To prevent the wind from ripping loose the edges of the 
tent, place pieces of lath over the edges and drive nails 
through the laths and tent into the platform (Fig. 347). 






































































A TREE PLATFORM, TENT, AND HUT 


229 


' A TREE HLH 

Having completed a tree platform, sooner or later you will 
decide to enclpse it with walls and a roof. Figure 350 shows 


Fig. 351. 


Fig. 352. 






Fig. 354. 


Fig.353. 


Fig. 351. —End Wall Section. Fig. 353. —Rear Wall Section. 

Fig. 352. —Front Wall Section. Fig. 354. —Batten Door. 


a simple enclosure. The best way to build 

The Walls is in sections. Make them upon the ground, 

then hoist them with ropes to the platform, and fasten them 




































































































































































230 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


together. If the hut is small, you can make the walls in 
single sections; if it is large, it will be better to make them 
in two or more sections to facilitate the task of getting them 
into position. 

Figure 351 shows how to build up the end wall sections, 
Fig. 352 the front wall, and Fig. 353 the rear wall. Use nails 
long enough to drive through the boards and battens and 
clinch. Nail a batten across the boards each side of the 
window (Fig. 352) before cutting the opening. 

To Set Up the Walls, place the end walls in position first 
and-nail them to the trees, then set the front wall in position 
and then the rear wall. 

The Best Roof is one of boards placed close together then 
covered with roofing felt. 

Make a Batten Door like that shown in Fig. 354. It is a 
good plan to cut an opening or two in this, and fasten glass 

V 

over each. Hinge the door,as you would a shed door, and 
provide a hook for fastening it from the outside. 

Insulate the Walls inside with building-paper or several 
thicknesses of newspaper. 



A SEMI-PERMANENT type of outdoor structure, affording 
more comfort than a tent, greater head room, better ventila¬ 
tion and more protection in stormy weather is the tent 
cottage. You will find it everywhere, used for temporary 
abodes pending the completion of summer cottages, for 
additional sleeping quarters, boys’ and girls’ camps, week¬ 
end shelters of motorists. Boy Scouts and other groups. 

. There are many designs of these tent cottages, but the 
main features are the same, a raised platform that assures 
the camper a dry floor at all times, a substantial framework 
with one-half of the walls boarded up, the remainder cur¬ 
tained with cotton duck of the weight used for tents, and a 
roof of the same material. The framework for the cottage is 
permanent, and given a coat or two of paint will last indef¬ 
initely; the canvas cover is removable, and at the close of the 
season is taken off, dried and packed away for safe keeping. 

A tent cottage is quite the cheapest structure that you and 
father, or you and your boy friends can put up for a woods 
home, the construction is easy and the work can be done in 
a day’s time. 

THE DESIGN AND SIZE 

of the cottage depends on the number in the party to use it, 

the sizes of material available in the locality you are to build 

^31 































232 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


it in, and the cost. Figure 355 shows a typical design with 
an outside measurement of 10 feet square and a height of 
9 feet between floor and ridge and 5 feet at the walls, a size 
that will suit requirements of the average family or small 
group of boys. 



Fig. 355. —The Tent Cottage Affords More Comfort than a Tent, and is In¬ 
expensive and Easy to Build. 

MATERIAL 

The Framework is built of 2-by-4S, the floor and walls are 
covered with 6-inch boards. In settling upon dimensions, 
bear in mind that lumber comes in lengths of even feet— 
8 feet, 10 feet, 12 feet, and so on. It will save waste to make 
a framework 8 or 10 feet long, rather than 9 or ii feet, and 
to order lengths that will cut up to the best advantage. 

The Covering Material should also be considered in build¬ 
ing the framework, that the supports may be placed in the 
correct positions to tack the goods to. Cotton duck comes 
in widths of 27 and 40 inches, and in different weights. 





























































































A TENT COTTAGE 


233 


An inch or so of the width must be allowed for the over¬ 
lapping of edges. Buy galvanized tacks for fastening the 
canvas to the framework. 

BUILDING THE FRAMEWORK 

A photograph of the completed framework without the 
tent covering is shown in Fig. 360. The first part to 
construct is 



Fig. 356. —Details of Cottage Platform and Wall Framework, 


The Floor Platform, a detail of which is shown in Fig. 356. 
Place 2-by-4 floor joists A on edge upon the ground, not 
farther than 3 feet apart, and nail the floor boards to them. 
Then raise the corners of this platform, one by one and place 
stones, bricks or 2-by-4 blocks under the joist ends to hold 
them off the ground. In the same way block up the ends 
of the intermediate joists. Then drive chips of wood 
between the stones and joists to level up the platform. 












234 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The platform makes a good surface on which to build 
The Side Walls. The frame of one wall is shown in position 
in Fig. 356. First spike plate B along the edge of the plat¬ 
form, then spike the ends of studs C to the plate, and spike 
upper plate B to their ends. With both side frames erected, 
stiffen them with diagonal braces nailed to the studs and 



Fig. 359. Fig. 357. 

Figs. 357 and 358. —Details of Roof Rafters 
Fig. 359. —Details of Doorway Gate and Canvas Curtain. 


the platform, testing the frames to make certain that they 
are plumb before nailing both ends of the braces. 

The Roof Rafters must have the lower end notched to fit 
over wall plate B (Z), Fig. 357), the upper end cut to meet 
ridge piece E (Fig. 358). End cuts of 45 degrees will give 
the roof the correct pitch. 

Have the assistance of one or two persons in setting raft¬ 
ers. First, spike a pair of rafters to one end of the ridge 
piece, and brace with a strip nailed across them below the 































A TENT COTTAGE 


ridge piece. Raise the rafters into place and spike the ends 
to the wall plates, then raise the other end of the ridge piece, 
set a pair of rafters in place, and spike to the ridge piece and 
plate. With the end rafters set, space the intermediate 
pairs at the right distances apart to tack the canvas cover¬ 
ing to. 

The End Walls are framed by fitting 2-by-4 studs between 
the end rafters and a plate nailed to the platform (Fig. 359). 

Board Up the Walls halfway all around, except across the 
doorway. At the doorway 

Make a Gate of boards battened together as shown in Fig. 
359, and hinge it to one of the studs. 

THE CANVAS COVERING 

Number 10 or 12 oz. cotton duck is right for the tent 
covering. Instead of tacking strips of single width to the 
framework, it is better to sew together several widths to 
make one piece of the right size to cover the roof and upper 
half of the side walls, and one piece to fit each end wall. 
This is work for mother and her sewing-machine. She will 
understand how to lap the material and sew with a double 
row of stitching. 

Tack the Canvas to the roof framework, but leave it loose 
on the side walls so it may be raised as shown in Fig. 355 to 
admit light and air. The flaps will form 
Awnings for the Openings. Build a rack upon each side of 
the cottage as shown in Figs. 355 a:nd 360 to support the 
flaps when raised, and provide tapes for tying the flaps when 
they are dropped. 

The Doorway Curtain shown in Figs. 355 and 359 should 


236 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


be fixed to roll. Tack the top of the canvas curtain to a 
plate across the head of the doorway, and the bottom to a 
pole as long as the curtain is wide. Then fasten a rope to 
the head plate, bring it down on the outer face of the curtain 
(Fig. 355) around the pole, up to and through a screw-eye or 
pulley screwed into the ridge piece (Fig. 359), and down to a 
nail at the side of the doorway. With this rigging, you can 
roll up the curtain by pulling the rope. 

Painting. Maybe you will not find time to paint the frame¬ 
work the first summer. This is not important. But do not 
fail to give all of the woodwork at least one good coat of 
paint after you remove the canvas covering in the fall. 

Waterproofing preparations can be purchased wherever 
tents and other outdoor equipment are sold, and it will be 
worth while.to purchase enough of a brand your dealer will 
recommend to waterproof the canvas covering of your tent 
cottage. 



Fig. 360 .—The Completed Framework of thf Tent Cottage, 
WITH THE Covering Removed for Winter Storage. 



Fig. 361 . 

A Thatched Tepee. 


Fig. 362 . 

A Tepee Covered with Burlap. 












Rather than pack a tent on a hike many boys prefer to 
set out with only a bag of grub, blanket, hand axe, and 
fishing tackle, bent on pioneering in the manner of back¬ 
woodsmen. You will relish the experience, too, I know, 
for it gives a fellow an appreciation of the value of woods 
craftsmanship, and an idea of some of the lesser hardships 
of pioneer days. Then you come home with more to talk 
about and more incidents for later years’ reminiscence than 
you could ever gather on a trip made luxurious by modern 
camp conveniences. 

No better tent than a starry sky, and no better bed than 
one of spruce boughs is needed for fair weather camping in 
the woods, and if you may be reasonably assured of fair 
weather it is ideal equipment for the overnight hike. But 
the unexpected storm is always a possibility, and it is well 
to provide against a drenching, if there is no cover of any 
kind in the vicinity, by erecting one of the woods shelters 
shown in the illustrations of this chapter. 

A THATCHED TEPEE 

The Indian tepee, after which the modern pyramidal type 
of army tent has been patterned, makes one of the best 
woods shelters, and the thatched tepee shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 361 ca‘n be put up in a hurry. This tepee 

237 





















238 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


appears in a more or less dilapidated condition with much 
of its brush thatching missing, but the construction is 
shown to better advantage because of it. You will notice 
that the upper ends of the poles lean against a ridge-pole 
fastened across the trunks of two trees. The large tree at 
the left affords a certain amount of protection to the en- 



Fig. 363.—A Tepee oJ Fewer Poles than the One in Fig. 362. 

trance, and in stormy weather a poncho or blanket may be 
used for a flap. Thatching is described on a following page. 

ANOTHER FORM OF TEPEE 

is shown in the photograph of Fig. 362. Of course, you 
must not chop down saplings for poles without permission 
from the land-owner. Unless the woods have been cleared 












239 


TEPEES AND A LEAN-^J'O SHELTER 


of dead timber, however, you should find enough dead 
limbs for your purpose. 

The advantage of 

Spacing the Poles close together, as shown in the detail of 
Fig. 364, is that it provides better support for the covering 
and makes possible rounder sides than if the poles were set 



Fig. 364. —The More Poles You Use, the Better the Support for the Covering. 

far apart. However, this is a matter to be determined by 
your supply of poles. One-third as many poles as shown 
in the detail drawing would do in a pinch. 

Describe a circle upon the ground, using a string joined 
to two sticks for a compass, and space the foot of the poles 
equidistantly around its circumference, except at the entrance 
where one pole will be omitted. The poles may be wired 





240 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


together at the peak, but with proper stacking this is not 
necessary. 

The Covering of the woods tepee may be of grasses or 
leaves, or burlap potato sacks, or any other material at 



Fig. 365.—The Thatched Lean-to Shelter May Have a Poncho or Blanket 

Flap for Bad Weather. 

hand. Thatching is described upon a following page. 
Fig. 363 shows how to cover the poles with burlap. 

A LEAN-TO SHELTER 

Building a thatched woods shelter of the form shown in 
Fig. 365 is a problem in woodcraft popular with Boy Scouts. 































TEPEES AND A LEAN-TO SHELTER 


241 


Like the shelter tent, it has an open front, and sometimes 
it is built with the ends left open, too. With a properly 
built fire in front, one can keep warm in this shelter, though 
the weather is cold. A flap may be used to enclose the 



Fig. 366. —Detail of Framework of Lean-To Shelter. 


front. Figure 366 shows how to erect 
The Framework of the lean-to. First, cut two branches 
about 5 feet long for uprights A. Each must be forked on 
the upper end to support ridge pole B. Drive the lower 
end of the uprights 6 inches or so into the ground. The 
position for the uprights should be determined from the 





































242 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


direction of prevailing summer storms. It is usually best 
to face the open front north. Space the uprights about 
5 feet apart. 

With uprights A set up, cut ridge-pole B and rest it in the 
crotches. Then cut five or six poles 8 or 9 feet long for roof 
rafters C, and rest them upon ridge-pole spacing them 
equidistantly as shown. On poles C rest cross poles D. 
For the support of the side thatching, drive the pair of 
forked stakes E into the ground, and rest diagonal poles F 
in their crotches. 

Thatching. Spruce boughs are best for thatching, but if 
they are not obtainable use brush and leaves. The process 
of thatching with boughs is simple. It is quite similar to 
laying shingles. With boughs about 2 feet long from tip to 
tip, begin laying them at the lower edge of the roof. Place 
them close together with butts toward the ridge and resting 
across the lowest cross pole. With the first row laid, lay a 
second row with the tips overlapping the butts of the first 
row; then lay a third row with the tips overlapping the 
second row, and so on until the ridge is reached. 

The sides can be thatched by hanging boughs on twigs 
of the boughs lying along the edges of the roof, then sup¬ 
porting other boughs on the lower side poles E. 

Although the thatched woods shelter is a temporary 
structure, its framework should last several seasons, and its 
thatching can be renewed when necessary. 

A BED OF BOUGHS 

One must sleep upon the ground in a woods shelter of the 
tepee or lean-to t\q^es, and a mattress of spruce or balsam 


I 


TEPEES AND A LEAN-TO SHELTER 


243 


boughs makes a most comfortable bed. The boughs must 
be laid correctly, however, and the way to do is to start at 
the head of the bed, lay a row of boughs with butts toward 
the foot, then lay a second row with tips overlapping and 
concealing the butt ends of the first row, then a third row 
overlapping the second, and so on until the foot of the bed 
has been reached. Your blanket spread over the boughs 
will hold them in position. 



There is no incentive to rig up camp furniture for a 
camp-site that you are not likely to visit a second time, but 
if the place is your own, your summer home, it is a different 
matter. Here there will be all sorts of things which you 
can build to add home comforts. During an extended visit 
there will be time for such work, too. In fact, there comes 
a day now and then after a strenuous hike, horseback ride, 
row or other activity when you feel like staying around camp, 
and then there come the rainy days. These are the days to 
devote to camp handicraft, and if you plan what you want 
to make ahead of time and have the working materials at . 
hand, you can progress rapidly. 

In anticipation of this work do not neglect to take along 
your woodworking tools—rip-saw, cross-cut saw, and keyhole 
saw, hammer, axe, bitstock and several sizes of bits, several 
chisels, plane, screw-driver, rule, and square. And unless 
hardware can be obtained in the vicinity, include several 
pounds of 6-, 8-, lo- and 12-penny nails, common and finish¬ 
ing nails, and 16- and 20-penny spikes. 

A CAMP COT 

For that spare bed which you fall heir to when company 
arrives for the week end, rig up a cot like that shown in 

244 
























CAMP COTS, CHAIRS, AND TABLES 


245 


3^7 a tent or possibly one of the shelters described 
in Chapter XXV. 

As you will see, it requires a canvas top, two poles, four 
stakes and two crosspieces. The canvas top should be 30 
inches wide and 72 inches long, the pair of poles 8 feet long, 
the stakes 3 feet long and the crosspieces 3 feet long. Have 
mother prepare the canvas top with headings along the side 
edges through which to slip the poles. This is work for the 



sewing-machine, and there must be a double row of stitching 
along each heading to make a strong job. When the top 
has been finished, slip the poles through the headings, drive 
the four stakes 20 inches into the ground at the proper points 
so the canvas will be stretched taut when the poles are 
slipped outside of the stakes, and nail the supporting cross¬ 
pieces to the stakes several inches below the tops. 

When the canvas has been stretched with continued use, 
it will be a simple matter to pull up the stakes and drive 
them farther apart into the ground. 














246 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A FOLDING COT 

The cot in Fig. 368 is similar to the folding models that 
you buy. You will find details for its construction in Figs. 
369 to 373. Follow the dimensions in 
Cutting the Parts. First prepare the eight legs A, then 
rails B, C, and D. Cut the strips out of i-by-2S, known as 



Fig. 369. —Side View of Cot Folded. 

furring strips. These measure about ^-inch thick and 
inches wide. You can probably get them at a lumber yard 
at the nearest town. In addition to the strips, buy one 
dozen ^-inch stove bolts inches long for bolting the legs 
together, eight 2 -by- 2 -inch iron angle-braces and 2 yards of 
10- or 12-OZ. cotton duck. 






















CAMr COTS, CHAIRS, AND TABLES 


247 


In preparing legs A it is important to trim off the lower 
ends as indicated in Fig. 371, and to locate the bolt holes 
where shown and bore them straight. After cutting and 
boring these pieces, place the eight together, and if they are 
not alike, make them so; otherwise, you will have difficulty 
in assembling the frames. Cut rails B and C of equal length 
and rail D 2 inches shorter. 


Fig. 373- 


Fig. 371. 




Fig. 370.—Cross-Section of Cot. Fig. 372.—Corner Braces. 

Fig. 371.—Patternjfor Legs. Fig. 373.—Stove Bolt Pivot. 


In Assembling the cot, first nail one of the rails B to the 
tops of four of the legs A, spacing the legs equidistantly, 
then reinforce the connections by fastening the iron angle 
braces in the corners as shown in Fig. 372. Bolt rail D to 
the legs near the lower end (Fig. 369). This will make one 
frame. In the same way, nail the second rail B to the other 
four legs, reinforce them with the angle-braces, and bolt rail 
C near the lower end; in doing this, space the legs so there 
will be a full }i inch between each pair when the frames are 
folded together as shown in Fig. 369. 












248 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Canvas Covering. First tack the cotton duck to the 
outer edge of one of the top rails B, placing the tacks not 
farther than i inch apart. Then spread the cot legs until 
the distance from the floor to the top edge of rails B is 16 
inches, and hold the legs in that position until you have 



Fig. 374.—Folding Camp Chair. 


stretched the canvas over the second rail and secured it with 
tacks. 

A CAMP CHAIR 

The folding camp chair shown in Fig. 374 will furnish camp 
with one of the comforts of home—a chair with a back. 

f 

The framework of most folding stools and chairs is made 






CAMP COTS, CHAIRS, AND TABLES 


249 


of hard wood, but possibly you can get only soft wood, so I 
have made the parts of furring strips to produce a strong 
frame if soft wood is used. Every dimension you need for 
cutting the parts and putting them together is given upon 
the cross-section (Fig. 375), the front view (Fig. 376) and 
the detail diagrams (Figs. 377 to 379). 



The Parts. Legs A and B are of equal length. Make 
them as shown in Fig. 377. Top rail C connecting legs A 
and the lower rail C connecting legs B are of equal length. 
Seat rail D connecting legs Bis 2 inches longer than rails C. 
Its ends project to support uprights F of the chair back. 
Trim the ends as shown in the detail (Fig. 378). 




































250 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Assembling. Nail the rails securely to the legs and rein¬ 
force the connections between the top rails and the legs 
with 2-inch iron angle braces, as shown in Fig. 375. Pur¬ 
chase ^-inch bolts 2^ inches long with which to bolt legs 
A to B. The position for the bolts is indicated in Figs. 375 
and 376. Slip iron washers over the bolts between the legs. 

Cover the Seat with 10- or 12-oz. cotton duck or heavy 
denim. Bring the goods over the edges of seat rails C and 



Fig. 

377. 



Fig. 377.—Detail of Camp Chair Legs. 
Fig. 378.—Detail of Rear Seat Rail. 

Fig. 379.—Detail of Chair Back Uprights. 


D and tack to the edges, placing the tacks about ^ inch 
apart. 

The Chair Back uprights F should be of the length shown 
in Fig. 379, cross rail G of the length shown in Fig. 376. 
Notch the ends of uprights F to receive rail G. Bore ^- 
inch holes through uprights F 1 inch above the lower end, 
also through legs B where indicated in Fig. 375, for bolts 
for fastening the back to the chair. Use >^-inch bolts 2^ 
inches long at these points. 



































CAMP COJ'S, CHAIRS, AND TABLES 


251 


A BACKWOODS CHAIR 

Every backwoodsman knows how to make the chair shown 
in Fig. 380. I have seen it in camps in all parts of the coun¬ 
try. With its reclining back it is mighty comfortable. 
Figure 381 shows a side view with the parts lettered. 



Board A forms the chair back and front leg, seat board B is 
nailed to board A and to bracket piece C set in between it 
and board A. Board D forms the back leg, and is nailed to 
board A and braced by a pair of crosspieces E nailed to its 
edges and the edges of board A. There is no fixed angle for 
board H, but 60 degrees makes a restful back. 






252 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A BOX CHAIR 

Although not much to look upon, the chair in Fig. 382 has 
a back which makes it more comfortable to sit on than a 
plain box. Nail the back uprights to the box sides and nail 
the crosspieces to them. Drive a pair of stakes into the 
ground each side of the box, and nail to the box, then there 
will be no danger of upsetting the seat in reclining against 



Fig. 382.—Box Chair. 


the back. The inside of the box will make a good cupboard, 
and a door may be hinged to enclose it, as shown in the 
illustration. 


A CAMP TABLE 

Figure 383 shows a simple plan for a table. The size of 
the top may be made to suit whatever boards you have at 
hand. One wide board will do, but two or three fastened 















































CAMP COTS, CHAIRS, AND TABLES 


253 


together with crosspieces nailed to the under side will be 
better. Support one end of the top upon a cleat nailed to a 
tree trunk, the other end upon a stake driven into the ground. 
The correct height for the table is 28 inches. 

A TABLE WITH A SHELF 

like that shown in Fig. 384 has its top battened at one end 
and nailed to a box at the other end. Support the battened 



end upon a cleat nailed to a tree, the box end upon two 
stakes driven into the ground. As you will see by the illus¬ 
tration, the box makes an excellent shelf or cupboard. You 
may hinge a door to it if you wish. 

A TABLE WITH BENCHES COMBINED 

The combined table and benches shown in the working 
drawings of Figs. 385 to 387 and the photograph of Fig. 388 











254 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


is a piece of furniture in general use at Boy Scout and other 
organized camps. One advantage of having table and 
benches combined is that they are always in position. One 
must step over the benches to sit at the table, but in this day 
of knickers even ladies of a party will have no difficulty in 



Fig. 384.—Table with Shelf. 


getting seated. As the parts of the table are bolted, it is 
but a few minutes’ work to set up the table and benches or 
knock them down; therefore,'they may be transported easily 
or packed away at the close of the season. 

The Material should be dressed upon four sides. Buy 
2-by-4S for rails A and C, legs B, and braces F, and 2-by-ios 
for top D and seats E. The dimensions for cutting the 

















































CAMP COTS, CHAIRS, AND TABLES 


255 


pieces will be found on the longitudinal section (Fig. 385), 
the cross-section (Fig. 386) and the frame detail (Fig. 387). 

Build Two Frames like that shown in Fig. 387. Chamfer 
the ends of rail A, and trim the upper end of legs B to come 
flush with the top of the rail and the bottom to rest evenly 
upon the floor when set at the angle shown. Use ^-inch 


Fig. 387. Fig. 386. 



Fig. 385.—Longitudual Section of Table Shown in Fig. 388. 

Fig. 386.—Cross-Section. Fig. 387.—Detail of End Frames. 

bolts to bolt the legs to the rail, two to each leg. Before 
boring the bolt holes, tack the pieces in the correct positions 
with finishing-nails. Be careful to make the second frame 
an exact duplicate of the first. 

The End Rails C are shown in Fig. 386. Cut them of 
the given length and bolt them to the legs at the given 









































































256 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


height. One ^-inch bolt is sufficient at these points of 
bolting. 

The Top The length of top planks D is given in Fig. 385; 
also, the distance apart to place the end frames. Bolt the 
outer planks to end rails A and leave the center plank un¬ 
attached. By having the center plank removable it may be 
lifted for cleaning out crumbs and liquids that find their 
way into open joints of table tops. 

When you have fitted and bolted the top planks to the 
end frames, cut 

The Seat Planks E and bolt them to end rails C. Then cut 
diagonal braces F to fit between rails A and C, and bolt 
them at the ends and at the center. 

Finishing. Before finishing the table, take a plane and 
run it along all edges of the top and seat planks; also take off 
the sharp edges of the legs. Two coats of paint should be 
applied. The paint sold for garden furniture is best; still, 
any other paint you have will do. If there are any knots 
in the lumber, give them a coat of shellac to seal up the 
resin before applying the paint. 



Fig. 388 .—Camp Table with Benches Combined. 



Fig. 309 .—Let the Twists and Bends Nature has Given the 
Branches Dictate the Design of your Rustic Bench. 








Building rustic seats, tables, wash-stands, cots, and racks 
of various kinds is so different from the sort of handicraft the 
average city-boy is accustomed to that it presents a decided 
novelty. You plan what you are going to build and how 
you are going to build it. Then you look up building ma¬ 
terial and when you have all that is needed you have an 
assortment of tree trunks and branches that perhaps suggest 
radical modifications of your design. Let the twists and 
bends nature has given the branches dictate the design, and 
you will produce something artistic and different from 
furniture anybody else has made. 

A BENCH 

Probably you have seen the kind of rustic benches they 
sell in stores, made of straight limbs of hickory or cedar, and 
all alike. These look nice upon porches or in gardens, but 
they lack individuality. Make your bench more rustic. 

The photograph of Fig. 389 shows a bench that I built 
several years ago from a pile of tree trimmings, which makes 
a good woods seat.' Your material may suggest a different 
design, but the construction will be similar. 

The first thing to do after procuring 

The Material is to sort it. Select two pieces of similar size 

for rear legs A (Fig. 390), two similar pieces for front legs F 

257 





















258 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


(Fig. 391), pieces of the same diameter for seat rails D and 
H, and lighter pieces for leg rails C and G and back rails B. 
There must be enough short straight pieces for seat-bars /, 

Fig. 390. Fig. 392. 


--H 




Fig. 391. Fig. 393. 

Fig. 390. —Rear Frame of Bench Shown in Fig. 389. 
Fig. 391. —Front Frame. 

Fig. 392.—End View of Completed Bench. 

Fig. 393. —Detail of Arm. 


arms K and leg-braces E, but these may be selected after 
the main framework has been assembled. 

With the pieces sorted, cut them to the lengths given in 
Figs. 390 to 392. For nailing, purchase i6-penny nails for 
the medium-size pieces of the framework, 20-penny nails for 
















































RUSTIC FURNITURE 


259 


the heavy pieces, and 12-penny finishing-nails for the light 
pieces of the seat and the small branches on the back. 
Assembling the Frames. Spike together the rear frame 



Fig. 394.—Tree Seats Can Be Built Quickly. 


as shown in Fig. 390 and the front frame as shown in Fig. 
391, then stand the two at the correct distance apart (Fig. 
392), and connect them with end seat-rails /, arms iC, and 





















































26 o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


braces L. It is best to flatten the surfaces of pieces crossing 
one another, at the points of contact, as it makes it possible 
to spike the pieces more securely. Cut away the forward 
end of seat-arms K to fit over the top of the front legs, and 
the rear end to fit over the rear legs, as shown in the detail 
of Fig. 393. 



Fig. 395.—Build the Tree Bench with a Reclining Back. 


For the Seat select pieces as straight and as nearly uni¬ 
form in thickness as you can find. Nail these pieces (/, 
Fig. 392) to seat rails D and H, with two finishing-nails at 
each end, driving the nails diagonally through the sides so 
the heads will be below the seat level. 

You will find a bench of these proportions so solid that 
no wind-storm will overturn it, but it is well to spike the 


























RUSTIC FURNITURE 


261 


legs to stakes driven into the ground, to discourage anybody 
from appropriating it, when you are not around. 

TREE SEATS 

One seldom has enough seats in the woods camp, and never 
too many. Tree seats may be built quickly, because trees 
are used for support. 



Fig. 396.—This Rustic Wash Stand Has a Basin and Towel Racks. 


The Double Seat shown in Fig. 394 is made by nailing a 
pair of branches to opposite sides of a tree-trunk 16 inches 
above the ground, cutting them long enough so their ends 
will project 18 inches or so, then setting pieces under the 
























































262 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


ends to support them, and nailing straight pieces across the 
tops. 

The Tree Bench (Fig. 395) has a seat made of short pieces 
of branches nailed to rails spiked to opposite sides of a pair 
of trees, and a back of rails fastened to one side. If you join 
the rails to make a reclining rather than a straight back the 
bench will be more comfortable. 



Fig. 397.—Plan of the Wash-Stand. 


A RUSTIC WASH-STAND 

One of the pieces of camp furniture that has proved popu¬ 
lar with our Boy Scouts is the rustic wash-stand shown in 
Fig. 396. You will see by the sketch and the plan of Fig. 
397 that the wash-basin is supported by its rim in a square 
opening in the center of the top. 

Follow the plan of Fig. 397 in building the stand. Spike 
rails C at one end to tree A, and at the other end to posts B. 





































RUSTIC FURNITURE 


263 


Rest the three top sticks E across rails C and nail to the 
rails, fasten framing-rails D to the tree and under side of 
outer bars £, and fit top sticks F in place. Cut the pair of 
sticks G long enough so their ends will project for towel-racks. 

A COT 

A comfortable cot for a tent or rustic shelter is shown in 
Fig. 398. The top requires a bottomless sack 30 inches wide 



Fig. 398.—Camp Cot. 



Fig. 400. Fig. 399. 

Figs. 399 and 400.—Details of Rail Supports. 

and 72 inches long, the side rails are logs 8 feet long, and the 
head and foot supports are logs 4 feet long. Have mother 
make the sack out of 10- or 12-oz. cotton duck. 

With the sack and logs at hand, slip the rails through the 
sack and rest their ends upon the 4-foot logs. Mark where 
the rails come, and notch the logs at these points to receive 
their ends (Fig. 399). Fill the sack with brush, grass, and 




264 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


leaves to make a soft mattress, pin the ends with large safety- 
pins to keep the filling from falling out, and the bed will be 
completed. 

In place of the end logs, you may support the side-rails in 
the crotches of crotched sticks, the sticks to be driven into 
the ground as shown in Fig. 400. 



Fig. 401. Fig. 402. 

Fig. 401. —A Hat-Tree. 

Fig. 402. —Notch Crotched Sticks Like This. 


A HAT-TREE 

Hooks are generally a scarce article at camp. Figure 401 
shows how to rig up a rustic rack by binding crotched sticks 
to a tree-trunk. Cut sticks of the form shown in Fig. 402, 
notch them near the ends, and bind them to the tree trunk 
with the binding-wire or cord slipped into the notches. One 
or two crotched sticks fastened to the tent-poles are handy 
for clothes-hooks. 












































Thieves of the two-legged variety are seldom known in 
camp. One needs to be more concerned with four-legged 
thieves. Cattle are among the offenders. I remember how 
they bothered us the first time we camped along the shores 
of a lake, but it was in Devil’s Gulch near Estes Park, 
Colorado, before the day of the automobile, when mountain 
travelling was by stage-coach or covered wagon and the west 
was yet wild and woolly that I learned to be wary of cows. 
Our party of four boys had set out fora three-weeks’ camping 
trip, with what were supposed to be enough supplies. All 
went well until the third or fourth day, when we missed our 
soap. It is strange that it was not until the third or fourth 
day that we missed the soap. One of the fellows declared 
he had not seen any in camp, but the rest of us were certain 
we had not only seen but used it, and established the time 
of its disappearance. 

We met the emergency by detailing a lad to beg a bar at a 
cabin farther up the gulch, but on returning to camp the 
following evening we found that bar, too, had disappeared. 
We resolved to seek no more donations and the next morning 
hiked to the nearest town and stocked up with two bars. 
Tired enough to loaf after our hike, we stayed with the soap 
the rest of the day. Then came a day’s trip to the glacier 
fields. That night, returning late, tired, ready for a scrub- 

26s 



























266 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


bing, a bite to eat, and a quick turning in, what should we 
find but a camp in wild disorder. The tent was nearly 
down, clothing strewn everywhere, and little of the culinary 
department left but utensils. An inventory showed the loss 
to include 20 pounds of potatoes, a bag of cornmeal, a slab 
of bacon, a quarter of a ham, the soap, and butter and 
milk upset in the creek. 

Next day the culprits were discovered by a guard left in 
camp. Awakened from a doze by a tinkling bell, he reported 



Fig. 403.—Food-Bags with Draw-Strings in Top. 

finding three cows starting in on another raid, and, believe 
him or not, one seemed to be frothing at the mouth with soap¬ 
suds. 

While it is not necessary to keep supplies under lock and 
key as a rule, one must safeguard them against hungry 
animals, birds, and insects, and protect them from spoiling, 
souring, and melting. Following are some practical sugges¬ 
tions for food-safes, refrigerators, and cupboards: 

FOOD-BAGS 

Feed-bags, flour-sacks, and salt-sacks make excellent food- 
containers when provided with draw strings (Fig. 403) and 

































































OTHER CAMP FURNISHINGS 


267 


they may be made waterproof with one of the tent water¬ 
proofing compounds sold by outfitters. The smaller sacks 
may be packed in potato-sacks for transporting, to reduce 
the number of pieces to be handled. 

A MEAT-SAFE 

Suspended from a tree limb, the meat-safe shown in Fig. 
404 keeps fish, meats, and other food out of reach of flies, one 
of the great annoyances of camp life, and a dangerous one 
from the standpoint of health. You will find this type of 
collapsible container wherever camping equipment is sold, 
but you can make one that will be every bit as good at a 
cost of a yard of bobbinet or mosquito-netting. You will 
need two wire hoops, and you can make these out of bailing 
wire. 

Bend the wire into hoops 16 inches in diameter and twist 
the ends in the manner shown in Fig. 405. Fold the netting 
to make a bag of the diameter of the hoops, and sew together 
the edges. Then slip the wire hoops into the bag and sew the 
netting to them. Turn over the ends of the bag and sew, to 
form hems for draw-strings, and run a piece of fishing-line or 
heavier cord through the hems. 

Figure 404 suggests how to hang the safe with the meat or 
fish suspended from a wire hook bent on the end of a wire 
hanger similar to that shown in Fig. 406. The safe is ac¬ 
cessible through the bottom. 

A REFRIGERATOR 

Supported so that the lower portion is below the water- 
level, the camp refrigerator shown in Fig. 407 provides an 


268 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


excellent means of keeping provisions fresh and cool. The 
shelf is high enough above the water so dairy products, in 
tightly covered cans or jars may be hung from it their 



Fig. 405. Fig. 404. 

Fig. 404.—Meat-Safe. 

Fig. 405. —Top and Bottom Rings. 
Fig. 406. —^Wire Hanger. 


bottoms extending into the water. The slat arrangement 
(Fig. 408) allows the water-cooled air to rise and circulate 
through the food-chamber above. 

One of the boxes in which provisions have been brought 








































OTHER CAMP FURNISHINGS 269 

to camp may be used for the refrigerator. Remove one of 
the box sides and of these boards make a door for the re¬ 
frigerator front, wide enough to come a trifle below the water- 



Fig. 407. —This Lake or Creek Refrigerator Will Keep Provisions Fresh and Cool. 



line (Figs. 407 and 408). Hinge this door at the top. Lack¬ 
ing hinges, pieces of rope will do Rope hinges may be 
fastened with bent-over nails. Fasten a rope loop to the 










































































































270 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


door for a handle, and provide a wooden button at one side to 
fasten the door shut. Nail cleats to the box ends, inside, 



Fig. 409. —This Box Provides a Chest for Transporting Equipment. 

Fig. 410. —And a Cupboard for Camp Supplies. 

several inches above the water-line on which to rest the ends 
of the shelf-slats (Fig. 408). 










































































































































OTHER CAMP FURNISHINGS 


271 


Install the Refrigerator in a shady spot, if possible. If 
you cannot find a place that will be shady all day, use the 
best you have and make a sun-shield of branches. Drive 
four stakes far enough into the lake or creek bottom to be 
firm, at the right distance apart so the refrigerator box will 
fit between, and nail the box ends to the tops. 

A CHEST AND CUPBOARD 

This is a good combination as it provides a chest for trans¬ 
porting equipment to and from camp (Fig. 409), and when 
emptied may be hung upon a tree and fitted with shelves for 
camp supplies (Fig. 410). The box I have used for the pur¬ 
pose is 30 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 12 inches deep—a 
convenient size to handle. You can probably pick up a box 
of nearly these dimensions. 

The Chest is of first consideration. Go over the box and 
reinforce the nailing. Batten together the cover boards 
with a pair of battens placed upon the inner surface, as 
shown in Fig. 409, and hinge to the box with strap hinges. 
Screw a hinge-hasp to the cover, and a staple-plate to the 
front of the box in the right position for the hasp to fit over. 
Buy a small padlock with which to lock the box. On each 
end fasten a handle made of a short strip and a pair of blocks. 
Fasten these handles with bolts run through holes bored 
through the handle strips, blocks, and box ends. Screw the 
nuts on to the bolts, inside the box. To complete the box, 
give it a coat of paint and letter your name upon one end. 

For the Cupboard, shelves and cleats are needed. Box 
boards can be found usually at a camp-site, but to save the 
bother of cutting them to the right size it is best to take the 


272 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


shelves along with you. Wood ^ inch thick is heavy enough. 
Nail a pair of cleats to each side of the box, spacing them so 
the shelves will divide the box inio three equal parts. Do 
not nail the shelf boards to the cleats. Leave them loose so 
they may be removed when you are ready to break camp, 
and packed at one end of the box. Nail a short block of 



Fig. 411.—Dresser with Mirror and Shelves for Toilet Articles. 


wood to each end of the box sides to hold the shelf-boards 
close to the box ends, as shown in Fig. 409. 

A DRESSER 

A dresser with shelves on which to keep toilet articles and 
a top on which to keep a wash-basin is another handy piece 
of camp furniture that may be built of one of the boxes in 
which equipment is taken to camp. Figure 411 shows such 
a dresser set up. 















































OTHER CAMP FURNISHINGS 


273 


Fasten several boards between the box sides for shelves, 
then nail the box to a tree with its top 36 inches or so above 
the ground. Hang a mirror on the tree above the box and 



Figs. 412 and 413.—Stand for Wash-Basin and How to Set it Up 



Fig. 415. 


Fig. 414. 


Fig. 414.—Candle Lantern. 

Fig. 415.—Readjust the Bail Like This. 


if you want to hide the contents of the shelves, tack a piece 
of potato-sacking or other cloth to the edge of the top to 
hang over the front. 












































274 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A WASH-STAND 


A good way to support a wash-basin is shown in Fig. 412. 
Drive three stakes firmly into the ground with the bottoms 
18 inches apart and the tops close together, in tripod forma¬ 
tion (Fig. 413), then spread the tops so the basin will set 
down between and its rim rest upon them. The softer the 
ground, the farther you must drive the stakes to make a 
firm support. 

Fig. 418. 





Fig. 416.—Hat-Tree. 

Fig. 417.—Barrel Hoop with Screw-Hook Hangers. 
Fig. 418.—Rope with S-Shaped Wire Hangers. 


A CANDLE LANTERN 

This may be used either as a hand-lantern or as a lamp to 
hang upon a tree (Fig. 414). It may be made of a lard pail, 
or any pail of about that size having a bail. There is a tin- 
can dump at or near almost every camp-site where a pail 
can be found. 

Detach one end of the bail and punch a hole in the side of 















































OTHER CAMP FURNISHINGS 


275 


the pail near the bottom, in line with the attached end of 
the bail (Fig. 415). Then bend the detached end of the 
wire hook-shaped, as shown, and catch it in the hole punched 
for it. Cut a hole in the side of the pail opposite the bail, a 
trifle smaller than a candle^ and push a candle part way 
through the hole as shown. 



A HAT-TREE 

A barrel hoop and nine screw-hooks are required for the 
rack shown in Fig. 416. Separate the hoop ends, screw the 
hooks at equal distances apart (Fig. 417) and fasten the 
hoop around a tree-trunk with wire or rope, securing this to 
the end screw-hooks. Lacking hoop and hooks, you can 
'make a similar rack by bending ^'-shaped hooks out of wire, 
stringing these upon a rope as shown in Fig. 418 and fasten¬ 
ing the rope around a tree-trunk. 













































276 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


CLOTHES-HANGERS 

Figure 419 shows two excellent hangers for the tent. The 
rope hanger is fastened to the tent uprights about 2 inches 
below the ridge-pole. The board rack is nailed to the rear 
tent upright, and ropes are run from the ridge-pole to nails 
in the board ends for stays. 



CLOTHES-PIN HANGERS 

One of the best clothes-hangers for the tent I have found 
to be a wire strung with spring-clip clothes-pins (Fig. 420). 
The kind of pin I refer to is shown in Fig. 421. The cost is 
about 2 cents apiece. To mount the pins, run the wire 
through the spring coil at the center, indicated by arrow. 
The clothes-pins will slide freely along the wire; therefore, 
they may be spaced as you want them. Bend the wire ends 
into small loops and screw the loops to the tent-pole uprights 
(Fig. 420), or to the under side of the ridge-pole. 
















OTHER CAMP FURNISHINGS 


277 


You will find a line of these clothes-pin hangers along the 
tent ridge mighty handy for suspending mosquito-netting 
over your cot. 


A MATCH-CONTAINER 


A good waterproof receptable for matches, and a safety 


container for fish-hooks can be made of a section of bamboo 
I inch in diameter (Fig. 422). For a single receptacle cut 
the piece with a joint at one end; for a double receptacle, 



Fig. 422. 



Fig. 422.—Match and Fish-Hook Container. 

Fig. 423.—Camp Broom. Fig. 424.—Camp Shovel. 


cut it with the joint at the center. . Fit a cork in each open 
end. Dip the ends and the corks in melted paraffin so the 
corked receptacles will be water-tight. 


A CAMP BROOM 

By binding brush to the end of a stick, a fairly good broom 
may be made (Fig. 423); and 

A Small Shovel or scoop may be contrived by nailing a 
piece of tin to the end of a stick (Fig. 424). Both the broom 
and shovel are necessary accessories for the shipshape camp, 
and the materials for making them will be found at hand. 
















The tendency of the tenderfoot camper is to confuse bon¬ 
fires with cooking fires, to think of flame as the part that 
cooks. When you find an exception, you may be certain 
that he has some of the instincts of the pioneer and that he 
will make a good camper. 

If you are a Boy Scout you have already learned some¬ 
thing about starting, tending, and using a fire, and you know 
that you need only a small bed of coals to fry and broil. 
There could be no better demonstration of this fact than 
that made at a recent exposition, where a scout fried flap- 
jacks indoors, on a griddle around which there was no flame 
and no smoke, indeed no indication of fire until the griddle 
was raised for flapping cakes, when a cluster of coals was 
revealed on the concrete floor. 

STARTING A COOKING FIRE 

It is assumed that you will start your fires with matches. 
Bow and drill and flint and steel are all right for exhibition 
purposes, and to know how to make a fire by these old time 
methods is worth while, but in this age of automobiles and 
airplanes we don’t ride behind oxen, neither do we hold to 
other practices gone out of fashion, so there is no reason for 
Indian and Colonial methods of fire-making, unless, as a 

278 





















CAMP FIREPLACES, STOVES, AND OVENS 279 


stunt, you set out with the avowed purpose of living wholly 
by primitive means. 

One match is sufficient to start a fire with proper prepara¬ 
tion of the firewood and care in shielding the flame from 
drafts that might extinguish it. The wood must be dry, of 
course, and rain makes this a problem to the amateur 
camper. In the woods, however, there are always trees 
with dead branches, and inside the bark the wood is dry. 
After one* or two camping experiences, you will learn to 
store up firewood inside the tent, along the ground-cloth, 
or under the car in anticipation of a rainy day. 

The surest way of starting a fire without wasting matches 
is by having good tinder. One good method is to take 
several sticks and whittle shavings upon all sides, allowing 
these to stand out in long curls. Stack these bunches of 
curls together in tepee fashion and make an opening on one 
side through which to stick the lighted match. With the 
shavings lighted, stack other sticks around them and when 
the fire is burning well add your heavier pieces. 

FOREST FIRES AND THEIR PREVENTION 

Statistics on forest fires compiled by the Forest Service 
of the Department of Agriculture show an annual loss in 
the United States that is appalling. During 1924, 91,921 
fires were recorded, and, what is most amazing, 7,954 of 
these were attributed to camp-fires and 12,854 to smokers. 
Think of it! A total of 20,808 fires charged to carelessness. 
And an increase of 6,664 fires over the 1923 total of the 
same origin. Thoughtless carelessness, mostly, but never¬ 
theless punishable, since warnings of the Forest Service 


28 o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


are posted broadcast so that no one can plead ignorance of 
the law. 

Often a fire is considered out when as a matter of fact it is 
still smoldering. Recently I camped in the north woods on 
a site occupied by motor-campers several days previously, 
and some 25 feet from the remains of the camp-fire I came 
upon a patch of leaf mold as hot to the touch as the top of 
a stove. Blowing it, I had a fire almost instantly. The fire 
had crept through the surface under leaves and brush from 
the original fireplace, and upon investigation I found all the 
ground surrounding the fireplace in a similar condition. Had 
not this smoldering fire been discovered and quenched, 
there is no question but that the first brisk breeze would 
have fanned it into a blaze that might have wiped out the 
entire woods. Bearing this incident in mind, make it a point 
to know that your fire is absolutely out before you leave 
your camp site. 

Clear a place for your fire before building it. Never start 
it among leaves, leaf mold, or in the grass. The best plan is 
to confine it in 

A FIRE-PIT 

There are several ways to make this. The simplest way 
is to turn back the sod as shown in Figs. 425 and 426, on a 
patch measuring 24 inches long, 6 inches wide at one end, and 
12 inches at the other. With one-half the sod turned back 
on each side, the depth of the pit is doubled and a support 
for pots and pans is formed at the narrow end. Lay out the 
pit so the wide end is toward the wind. Then the narrow 
end will be the smoke outlet. 

When you are ready to abandon this fireplace, tumble the 


CAMP FIREPLACES, STOVES, AND OVENS 281 


sod back into the pit so the spot will be left just as you 
found it. 


FIRE-LOGS 

Logs with flatted tops (Fig. 425) may be placed each side 
of the fire pit on which to rest cooking utensils, and they 
may be used without a pit, as shown in Fig. 427. Use green 
logs for the purpose. 



Fig. 425.—Fire-Pit with Fire-Logs. 


A CRANE 

A good support for kettles may be made by bending over a 
sapling as shown in Fig. 426, and fastening it in this position 
with a cord or wire attached to it and to a stake driven into 
the ground; or if there isn’t a sapling at hand, you may sub¬ 
stitute a pole, weighting down the end with stones. But a 
more common kettle support is 

A LUG-POLE 

The lug-pole shown in Fig. 427 is an old-time rig known to 
every woodsman. A crotched tree-branch driven into the 




282 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


ground at each end of the fireplace, with a straight branch, 
the lug-pole, to rest in the crotches, are all that are required. 



Fig. 426.—Fire-Pit with Sapling Pot-Crane. 

Fig. 427.—Fire Between Fire-Logs with Lug-Pole and Pot-Hooks. 
Figs. 428-430.—Three Forms of Pot-Hooks. 


POT-HOOKS 

Hooks to support kettles from the lug-pole may be bent 
out of wire S-shaped (Fig. 428), and two or more of these may 




















CAMP FIREPLACES, STOVES, AND OVENS • 283 

be interlocked, as shown in Fig. 427,10 accommodate pots of 
different sizes. If you have no wire, make the crotched- 
stick form of hook shown in Fig. 429, notching one leg to 
receive the kettle handle, or use a stick with a nail driven 
into it near each end, as shown in Fig. 430. 



LEGS FOR A CAMP STOVE 

If you own a sheet-iron camp stove of the type shown in 
Fig. 431, you can save the cook much stooping by support¬ 
ing the base upon legs as in the sketch. Stakes 30 inches 
long will provide 18-inch legs, and allow 12 inches to drive 
into the ground. To prevent the stove from upsetting, 
anchor it by driving nails into the stake tops each side of the 


corners. 










































284 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


A FOLDING CAMP GRATE 

Figure 432 shows a folding camp grate that can be pur¬ 
chased wherever camping equipment is sold. Because it 
folds fiat as shown in Fig. 433, it makes a compact piece of 
equipment to carry. Figure 434 shows my home-made 
model devised from a piece of heavy ornamental fencing, 

Fig. 433. 



Fig. 432. 

Fig. 432. —Folding Camp Grate Set Up. 
Fig. 433. —The Grate Folded. 


the kind with wires brazed at intersections. You can buy a 
running foot of this at any hardware store. A strip of 36- 
inch fencing 9 inches wide will be large enough if you cut it 
into three pieces as shown in Fig. 435, piece A for the grate 
and pieces B and C for the legs. Separate the pieces with a 
file or hack-saw. Hinge the sections together with wire as 
shown in Fig. 436. 














CAMP FIREPLACES, STOVES, AND OVENS 


285 


A HINGE CAMP GRATE 

The camp grate shown in use in Figs. 437 and 440 is in¬ 
expensive to make and compact to carry. Figure 438 shows 
it set up; Fig. 439 shows it folded for packing. All this 
grate requires are three lo-inch strap hinges and a ^-inch 
stove-bolt. To assemble, run the bolt through the first 


I 



Fig. 434. 





Fig. 436. 


Fig. 435. 


Fig. 434. —Home-Made Camp Grate. 

Figs. 435-436.—How to Make it of Wire Fencing. 


hole of one flap of each hinge, and screw up the bolt-nut 
tight. 

A BANK OVEN 

First of all you must have a bank of clay, then you must 
find several pieces of sheet-iron for shelves and doors, to 
build the oven shown in Fig. 441. Having located the bank, 
you should have little difficulty in getting the iron, because 
there are generally scraps of it around old camp-sites, and 



































































286 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


in refuse heaps on the outskirts of town. If you locate only 
small pieces, overlap them, or if none at all, use flattened 
tin cans. 




Fig. 437. —Hinge Camp Grate Shown in Fig. 440. 
Fig. 438. —The Grate Set Up for Use. 

Fig. 439. —The Grate Folded for Packing. 


The cross-section drawing of Fig. 442 shows how the oven 
in the photograph was built. First of all excavate 
The Fire-Pot. Fourteen inches square is large enough. Slope 








Fig. 440 .—The Hinge Camp Grate 
IS Great for Camp Eats. 



Fig. 441 .— a Clay Bank and Scraps of Sheet Iron were used to 

Build this Dandy Oven. 







CAMP FIREPLACES, STOVES, AND OVENS 2^7 

the back of the pit as shown in Fig. 442, to form the throat 
of the smoke-flue. If no shovel is at hand, make a scoop of a 
piece of sheet-iron fastened to the end of a stick (Fig. 424, 
Chapter X XVIII). 

Soak the clay building-material in water until plastic. 
Build the sides of the fire-pot to a height of 8 inches. Then 
place a piece of sheet-iron across the walls for the oven shelf, 



Fig. 442. —Cross-Section of Bank Oven Shown in Fig. 441. 


extending this to within 3 inches of the back of the fire-pot, 
and turning it up to enclose the front of the smoke-flue. 

The Oven. Build the oven walls to a height of 8 inches, 
then set in another iron shelf to form the oven top. Over 
this shelf, form a 3-inch clay top, extending it back to the 
smoke flue. 

The Chimney. If you can find a section of old stove-pipe, 
set it in the top of the smoke-flue; if not, cut the bottom out 
of a large can and set the can in the flue-top. 
















288 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


When you have built the walls and the top, make a grout 
or sloppy mixture of clay and water, and fill all interstices 
and smooth up the surfaces. 

Make the Doors for the oven and the fire-pot openings of 
pieces of sheet-iron with nails stuck through holes punched 
in the top edge to hang them by. 

With the bank oven complete, there will be no excuse for 
not adding some fine baking to your camp eats. Mother will 
be glad to supervise your first attempts. 



PART IV 


In and On\A4iter 


289 







































Fig. 444.—This Portable Sail may be used for Canoe or Rowboat. 








© '^Keystone," 

Fig. 443.—For this Day of Speed, the Canoe must have 


ITS Sail. 










If you own a canoe you will want to equip it with a sail 
before the summer is over, I know, because in this age of 
speedy craft we have become so accustomed to speed that we 
are no longer content without it. To the uninitiated, canoe 
sailing may seem dangerous, but in a canoe equipped with 
lee-boards it is as safe as any other water sport. The canoe¬ 
ist, however, knows how to handle himself in case of an upset, 
for, of course, no one is so foolish as to venture upon water 
before he has learned to swim. 

The lateen sail with which the five canoes in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 443 ^-re equipped is the favorite rig, and is easy 
for a boy to make. Indeed, after a trip to a hardware store 
or a ship chandler’s for fittings, and a visit to a dry-goods 
store for cotton duck, you will have everything in hand for 
the work, and if mother or sister will volunteer to machine- 
stitch the sail-cloth, hem the edges and attach the grommets 
or rings, the most you have to attend to is the rigging. 

A LATEEN SAIL 

Figure 445 shows a sketch of a 16-foot canoe with a lateen 
rig, and Fig. 446 shows a detail with measurements for the 
sail and spars. 

The Sail. Purchase 8- or lo-oz. cotton duck, 40 inches 
wide for sail cloth, and ask mother or sister to make the sail 

291 
































292 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


while you prepare the spars. When she has sewed together 
the several widths of cloth required for the sail area, you can 
assist in laying out the three edges preparatory to cutting 
and hemming them. The seams should be doubled and 
overlapped. Mother knows how to do this. The three 



Fig. 445. —The Lateen Sail is the Favorite Rig, and Used with Lee-boards, Canoe 

Sailing is Safe. 


corners— peak, clew, and tack —must be reinforced with 
patches as indicated in Fig. 446. On the diagram you will 
see three battens extending along the canvas seams from the 
leach. Sew cloth pockets i inch wide by 16 inches long to 
the sail to slip these stick battens into. Make the battens 
of laths or lattice strips planed down to 1% inches wide. 




















CANOE SAILS AND LEE, BOARDS 


293 


Brass grommets at the corners and along the head and foot 
are the standard provision for lashing the sail to the spars, 
but rings sewed to the sail edges will serve the purpose and 
be easier to put on. 

The Spars. Spruce is the preferred wood for mast, hoom, 



Fig. 446. —Detail of Canoe Rigged with Lateen Sail and Lee-boards. 

and yard, but you may not be able to get this in your locality; 
in fact, you may have to use. something at hand. Iron pipe 
will do for the mast, but a rug-pole is better because it is 
lighter. Bamboo fishing-poles, clothesline props, and all 
sorts of handles will do for boom and yard. Use the best 
material available; you can replace it with better another 


season. 


















294 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Mast should be of 2-inch stock, measuring not less 
than inches in diameter. Five feet 6 inches is the correct 
length for it. The upper end must be fitted with a halyard 
pulley-wheel (Figs. 447 and 448). The wheel from a small 
clothesline pulley will do. Slot the mast near the head to 
receive the wheel, boring two ^-inch holes through the mast, 
then cutting out the wood between the holes with a chisel, 
and trimming up so there will be plenty of clearance for the 
wheel. Bore a hole for a bolt pivot for the wheel. 

There are several ways 

To Support the Mast. The simplest is to bore a hole through 
the canoe seat for a step (Fig. 449), and screw an iron pipe 
floor-flange (Fig. 450) to the canoe floor to receive the mast 
end. Instead of disfiguring the seat, you may bore a hole in 
a board and fasten the board to the seat fore or aft of it. 

The‘Boom and Yard need not be more than inches in 
diameter. Nine feet 8 inches is the correct length. These 
spars must be joined where they come together at the tack of 
the sail, and the simplest way to connect them is to screw a 
screw-eye into the end of each and slip a harness snap through 
the eyes (Fig. 451). 

The boom must have a jaw to fit over the mast. This may 
be made of strap iron bent as shown in Fig. 452, with one 
end of the strip drilled for screwing to the boom. Drive a 
small screw-eye into the end of the boom and yard to lash the 
clew and peak of the sail to. 

Lash the Sail to the spars with heavy fishing-line, and use 
sash-cord for halyard and sheet. Figure 446 shows how 
The Halyard is fastened to the yard, then run through the 
block at the mast head, forward to and through a pulley at 


CANOE SAILS AND LEE-BOARDS 


295' 


the bow, and from that point to a cleat near the hand of the 
canoeist; also, how 

The Sheet is run over pulleys attached to boom and canoe 
seat. 


Fig. 448. Fig. 447. 



pulley 




Fig. 450. Fig. 451. 

Figs. 447-450. —Detail of Mast and Step. _ 

Fig. 451. —Boom and Yard End Connection. 

Fig. 452.—This Jaw of Boom Rests Against the Mast. 


LEE-BOARDS 

Usually only one lee-board is used at a time, that on the 
leeward side of the craft, the side opposite to that from which 
the wind blows. But the boards come in pairs and are 
made adjustable so they may be raised or lowered as the 
occasion demands. Pivot ted, they push up out of the way 
upon striking bottom or any obstruction. 
























296 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

Fig. 458. 



Fig. 457. Fig. 456. 




Fig. 455. 

Figs. 453 and 454. Face and Edge of Lee-board, with Dimensions for Cutting. 
Fig. 455. ^Adjustable Cross-bar for Supporting Lee-boards. 

Figs. 456 and 457.— Face and Edge of Cross Bar Strips. 

Fig. 458. —Iron Bracket for End of Strip. 






















































































CANOE SAILS AND LEE-BOARDS 


297 


Figure 453 shows a pattern of a standard lee-board, Fig. 455 
shows the adjustable cross bar that clamps to the gunwales 
and supports the lee-boards, and Fig. 456 shows a pattern of 
one of the adjustable bar strips. 

The Stock should be ^ inch thick. Cypress is good stuff 
to use, but almost any kind of wood that is easily worked 
will do. 

Laying Out the Pieces. The side edges of the lee-boards 
should be alike for the sake of appearance. It is easiest to 
get them so by using a center line in laying them out. Lay 
out one edge to one side of the line, make a tracing of this 
line, reverse the paper, and trace the line off upon the opposite 
side of the center line. 

Cut the Pieces with a small saw, then bevel the edges of 
the blades with a plane or file, as indicated in Fig. 454, and 
smooth the other edges with a file and sandpaper. A hole 
for the bolt for attaching the lee-board to the cross bar is in¬ 
dicated on the pattern diagram (Fig. 453). 

The Cross-bar strips are shown in Fig. 455. A pattern for 
laying them out is given in Fig. 456. Round one end as 
shown, bore two bolt holes where indicated, and cut a slot 
along the center. The best way to slot the pieces is to bore 
a hole at each end of the space, then cut from one hole to the 
other with a saw, or bore a series of holes and split out the 
wood between the holes with a chisel. 

The gunwale end of the bar strips requires an iron bracket 
of the shape and size shown in Fig. 458. A blacksmith will 
charge little to make a pair of these and drill them for bolts 
and screws. To save this cost item, you may see what you 
can do with a pair of strap hinges. With a little ingenuity 


2g8 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


it is possible to fashion a good pair of brackets from them. 
Screw or bolt the brackets to the bar strips as in Fig. 457. 

The Assembly. Four wing-nut-and-thumb-bolts are re¬ 
quired for joining the bar strips and attaching them to the 
canoe gunwales. Figure 455 shows how to slip two bolts 
through the slots and inner end holes of the bar strips, to 
provide for bolting the strips together when the length of 
the bar has been adjusted to fit the canoe gunwales, and 
how to slip two bolts through the outer holes for gunwale 
clamps. For the lower jaws of the clamps, use large iron 
washers, or pieces of strap-iron drilled to slip over the bolts. 
The washers will grip the under edge of the gunwales when 
the cross-bar has been set in place and the wing-nuts have 
been screwed up on the bolts. 

Finishing. Do not consider that you have completed the 
lee-boards until you have rubbed all surfaces smooth, stained 
the wood to harmonize with the finish of your canoe and 
applied a coat or two of spar varnish. 

To Prevent Warping. Lee-boards have a tendency to warp. 
This can be overcome by screwing strips of strap iron across 
the blades, one near the top and one near the bottom. 

A SMALL PORTABLE SAIL 

Probably more than once you have gone to a lake on a 
vacation and been disappointed to find no means of sailing, 
except with an open umbrella, which was lots of fun but 
after all only a makeshift. If it isn’t to your summer home 
that you are going, make a portable sail outfit that you can 
adapt to any boat. Such a rig is shown on a rowboat in the 
photograph of Fig. 444. 


CANOE SAILS AND LEE-BOARDS 


299 



Fig. 459.—Detail of Portable Sail Shown in Fig. 444. 

Fig. 460.—Detail of Rigging. 

Fig. 461.—Boom.and Mast Connection. 

Fig. 462.—How to Step and Stay the Mast. 

For the Sail cotton duck of 8- or lo-oz. weight or balloon silk 
is best, but if you can obtain neither, use heavy unbleached 
muslin. Figure 459 shows the dimensions for the square 










































300 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


edges of the sail. Having these, it will be easy to work out 
the lengths for the other edges. Make the selvedge the long 
edge and hem the cut edges to prevent ravelling. 

Cut the Sprit A and the battens Bj C, and D (Fig. 459) of 
the given lengths, and tack the sail-cloth to them, or form 
pocket to slip them into by sewing strips of canvas to the 
sail. Then pivot a tin collar to the end of sprit A {E, Fig. 
461) to fit the mast (Fig. 460), sew a couple of tapes to the 
lower inside corner of the sail (F, Fig. 459) with which to 
fasten that corner to the mast, tie a rope to the top of sprit 
A for a halyard, and tie another cord to the end of batten D 
for a sheet. 

Figure 460 shows the length to cut 
The Mast. After slipping the sprit’s collar over the mast and 
down to about the point shown in Fig. 460, drive a pin 
through the mast to keep it from slipping farther (G, Figs. 
460 and 462). Staple a small clothesline pulley to the mast 
head, through which to run the halyard (H, Fig. 460). 

Figure 462 shows how 

To Support the Mast in a rowboat. If you can bore a hole 
through the seat, it will only be necessary to prepare the 
board 7 , with a hole bored for the mast end to fit in, and 
fasten this board in the boat bottom. But if you cannot 
bore a hole through the seat, it will be necessary to prepare a 
board similar to /, lap its edge over the front of the seat, and 
nail it to the seat. With the mast in position, stay it with 
a rope run from the mast-head to the bow. 



One trouble with many of us who have hobbies is that we 
do not plan our work in season, or, rather ahead of season. 
Planting time finds us with garden unprepared, there comes 
an ideal time for kite-flying and we have no kite to fly, sum¬ 
mer arrives, we go to a lake and berate ourselves for not 
having a boat. 

Of course, the summer vacation is long enough for boat¬ 
building, but there is no need of wasting time planning and 
purchasing materials when this preliminary work may be 
done in odd moments. Besides, looking forward to one’s 
vacation trip, planning and getting together equipment is 
part of the fun of going. 

If you live not far from the water on which you plan to 
launch” your home-made boat, so transporting it is not im¬ 
practical, you can build the boat at home in the spring and 
have it in readiness by vacation time. At least, you can 
prepare the patterns, shape the stem- and 5/em-pieces, and 
cut the other parts so they may be packed knocked-down 
upon an automobile’s running-board, trailer, or your scout 
patrol cart, taken to camp and there assembled. 

The flat-bottomed boat in the photograph of Fig. 463 is 

one of the best models a boy can build, because of the 

simplicity of its construction and the small quantity of 

301 






























302 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


material required; in fact the labor and material for this 
model are reduced to a .minimum. This type of boat is 
excellent for fishing, for the bathing beach, and for general 
utility. It is well adapted to the use of an outboard 
motor; indeed, it is recommended by manufacturers of 
these portable motors. 



Fig. 467.—Plan of Home-Made Boat Shown in Fig. 463. 



One of the best materials to use for boat-building is 
cypress, a wood having such resistance to rot that it has been 
termed “the wood eternah’. Next to cypress is cedar, also 
famed for durability, and third best is pine. It is important 
to select material free from knots, checks, and other defects; 
also, seasoned stuff. A disadvantage in using green material 
is that it shrinks considerably in drying out and gives con- • 
stant trouble in keeping seams calked. 
























































































































































Fig. 463.— The Flat-Bottomed Boat is One of the Best Models 
A Boy can Build. It is Excellent for Fishing, for the 
Bathing Beach, and for General UTiLiT'i. 



Courtesy Erinrtide J^fotor Co.” 

Fig. 464.—The Flat-Bottomed Boat is Well Adapted to the Use 

OF AN Outboard Motor. 




Fig. 466.—a Lazy-Back and an Anchor. 


IN THE 


Model 


Fig. 465.—This Model has Refinements Lacking 

SHOWN IN Fig. 463. 











A FLAT-BOTTOMED BOAT 


■303 


Figure 467 is a deck plan of the flat-bottomed boat shown 
in the photograph of Fig. 463, and with this before you it 
should be no problem to figure out your material bill. The 
sides-of the boat are 15 inches wide. Not many years ago 
one could purchase boards of this width and wider at lumber¬ 
yards. I have a board that measures a full i inch thick and 
18 inches wide that was once the bottom of a packing-box. 
Nowadays, however, so-called i-inch lumber is usually not 
over ^5^6 ii^ch thick, while 12-inch boards are the widest 
material carried in stock, and their actual width varies 
between ii^ and ii^ inches. Also, bear in mind that 



boards come in lengths of even feet—10, 12, 14, and so on. 
The sides of your boat will have to be of two pieces, and a 
12-inch and a 4-inch board will do nicely. The length should 
be 14 feet for the boat illustrated. 

For the 5/m-piece (A, Figs. 469 and 470) get a piece of 
4-by-4, for the stern-piece (B) either i-inch or 2-inch stuff. 
If an outboard motor is to be used for propelling, and it prob¬ 
ably will be sooner or later, it may be better to use the 
thicker material, as it gives ’more end nailing surface for the 
side boards, thus adding rigidity to the boat. Vibration in 
the late types of outboard motors, however, has been reduced 
to a minimum, and a manufacturer of one of the popular 






























304 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


models declares that it is a factor that hardly need be 
considered. 

For the center mold, the bottom boards, and the keel, buy 
6-inch boards, for the seats 8-inch boards. 

CUTTING THE PARTS 

The Stem-Piece (^, Fig. 470) is the first part to cut. If 
you cannot get a piece of 4-by-4 use a block of 2-by-4. 
Batten together the boards of 

The Stern-Piece B with i-by-3-inch strips, placing these even 
with the ends as shown in Fig. 471. After the stern piece, 
make 

The Center Mold C. This is a temporary piece around which 
the sides are shaped. Its dimensions are given in Fig. 472. 
Batten together the boards as shown. 

The Sides of the boat are 15 inches wide, as previously 
stated, and made of a 12-inch and a 4-inch board. 

ASSEMBLING 

To assemble the boat, locate the center of the length of 
side boards D, and fasten the boards at these points to the 
ends of center mold C (Fig. 469). Bright wire nails may 
be used for this nailing. For all perm^anent nailing use 
copper or galvanized nails or brass screws. Set stem-piece 
A in position and nail one of the side boards to it. The bow 
of the boat has a rake, or pitch, of 3 inches between gunwale 
and hull. Set the stem-piece at the right angle to provide 
for this pitch. After fastening one side board, saw it off 
even with the stem-piece (Fig. 469), then nail on the second 
board and trim it the same way. 

The stern also has a pitch of 3 inches. Mark the pitch 


A FLAT-BOTTOMED BOAT 


305 


upon the end of boards then set stern-pieces B at the right 
angle and nail the side boards to it. Get some one to help 
you bend and fasten the side boards, as it is not easy to do 
alone because the changes in pitches producing the stream 
lines necessitate twisting the boards as well as bending them. 
To simplify drawing in the side boards to meet the ends of 

Fig. 472. Fig. 470. Fig. 474. 



Fig. 471. Fig. 473. 

Fig. 470.—Detail of Stem-Piece. 

Fig. 471.—Detail of Stern-Piece. 

Fig. 472.—Detail of Center Mold. 

Figs. 473 and 474.—Details of Seat Supports and Oar Lockets. 

stern-piece a cabinet-maker’s clamp can be used, or a 
double piece of wire looped over a nail driven into the end of 
each side board can be twisted with a nail or bolt until the 
board ends are pulled in the required distance. After nail¬ 
ing or screwing the side boards, trim their ends flush with 
the stern-piece. 












































3 o6 outdoor boy CRAFTSMEN 

The next step consists in inverting the framework and 
nailing on 

The Bottom Boards. These should be 6-inch or 8-inch 
boards with straight edges, not tongued and grooved. 
The boards will vary in length, because they must conform 
to the shape of the boat’s sides. Do not bother about the 
angles in cutting. Cut the ends square and a trifle longer 
than necessary, leaving the final trimming until after all 
boards have been nailed, when it will be a simple matter to 
saw them off close to the boat’s sides and finish the edges 
with a file and sandpaper. 

In nailing the bottom boards, slant the nails so each board 
will drive up close to the board next to it. 

With the bottom boards nailed, right the boat and fasten 
The Upper Side Boards E in place (Fig. 473). Battens are 
necessary to bind the upper and lower boards together so the 
joints between them will be tight. Space the battens at the 
right points to nail cleats to for seat supports. The battens 
are marked I in Fig. 473. 

To Complete the Outside of the boat, nail or screw a strip 
along the upper edge of each side or gunwale. These strips, 
marked H in Figs, 468 and 473 may be narrow as shown in 
the photograph (Fig. 463) or 'wide enough to lap over and 
conceal the joints between the side boards. 

The Keel. Invert the boat, and to the bottom along its 
center, extending from bow to stern, screw a 6-inch board for 
a keel (G, Fig. 468). Some boats are built with a similar 
strip, known as a keelson, screwed to the bottom, inside for 
reinforcement. 


A FLAT-BOTTOMED BOAT 


307 


CALKING 

White lead thicker than the consistency used for painting 
must be applied to surfaces coming in contact with one an¬ 
other to make water-tight joints. For instance, before nail¬ 
ing the side boards dope their ends with lead, also the ends 
of the stem and stern pieces; and before nailing the bottom 
boards, coat their edges, also the bottom edges of the side 
boards. 

THE SEATS 

The photograph (Fig. 463) and the plan (Fig. 467) show 
the seat arrangement. The seat in the bow is built of three 
pieces having a total depth of 24 inches, the stern seat is made 
of two boards having a total depth of 16 inches, and the other 
two seats are 8-inch boards. Fasten cleat J (Fig. 473) 
across the side battens to support the seat boards. Place 
the cleats about g }4 inches above the boat bottom. With 
the seats screwed to the cleats, remove center mold C 
(Fig. 469) as it is no longer needed. 

OAR-LOCKETS AND OARS 

Oar-Lockets can be bought for as little as 30 cents a pair. 
You will find various forms in sporting goods stores, and 
listed in mail order catalogs. Figure 474 shows a good grade 
of locket, and Fig. 473 shows how to-fasten its plate to the 
boat^s gunwale. 

Oars of Northern fir and white ash, tipped with copper, 
can be purchased at ^2.50 a pair. Prices vary somewhat 
according to length. Of course, if you prefer you can borrow 
an oar for a pattern and make a pair. With a saw, spoke- 
shave, file, and sandpaper this is not much of a trick. 


3o8 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


PAINTING 

You see home-made boats with little or no paint. Of 
course, it is foolish to neglect a boat in this manner after 
taking the trouble to build it, for wood will not long with¬ 
stand exposure to sun and'water. Besides, the neglect to 
keep his boat shipshape is a slovenly habit which no boy 
should fall into. 

Painting is not difficult. In fact, it is fun. First, sand¬ 
paper all surfaces, and fill with white lead all joints not pre¬ 
viously calked, after which let the work stand until the lead 
has hardened. Then apply two coats of a standard grade of 
oil paint inside and out, and a third coat to the outside is not 
a bad idea. You may make the inside lighter than the out¬ 
side, and the gunwale strips a contrasting color. The paint 
used for trimming will do to 

Letter the Name you decide to christen your boat on the bow. 
Letter the name first on paper, then, when satisfied that it is 
of the right size, and the letters of good form, transfer it to 
the bow by means of carbon paper and fill in the letters with 
paint, applying it with a small brush. 

REFINEMENTS IN BOAT-BUILDING 

The photographs of Figs. 464 and 465 show a side and top 
view of a factory model of flat-bottomed boat, and you will 
notice that while its construction is similar to the boat I have 
described, it has refinements lacking in the home-made model. 
You can add these with a little additional work. I shall men¬ 
tion a few of the alterations and additions necessary. Strip 
the boat bottom with i-by-i inch strips, cut to fit between 
the boat sides, 12 inches apart, and on top of the strips nail a 


A FLAT-BOTTOMED BOAT 


309 


flooring of boards ^ inch thick, running these from bow to 
stern. Make the rear seat deeper at the sides than at the 
center, extend the stern-piece 2 inches above the sides, and 
cut ofl the upper corners. Saw out blocks like those shown 
for bases for the oar lockets, and bolt them to the boat gun¬ 
wales. Trim the gunwales between the stern and first pair 




Fig. 478. 



Fig. 479. 


Figs. 475 and 476.—Details of Lazy-Back Shown in Fig. 466. 
Figs. 477-479.—Details of Anchor Shown in Fig. 466. 


of oar-lockets with strips % inch by inches, with one end 
fitted against the stern-piece and the other end rounded off, 
as shown. The sides of this boat are lower than those of the 
home-made model, being of one 12-inch board. 


A LAZY-BACK 

Seat backs of different forms can be purchased wherever 
boats are sold, but the back shown in the photograph of 





















































310 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Fig. 466 is as good as any of them and is easy to make. It re¬ 
quires only a piece of lo-inch or 12-inch board 18 inches long 
and a pair of hinges (Figs. 475 and 476), but it is a good plan 
to batten the board with strips as shown to keep it from 
warping. Fasten the battens upon the outside of the board 
with screws. Round the upper corners of the board, and 
sandpaper all edges to remove splinters. 

By using pin hinges the pin may be withdrawn when you 
wish to remove the back to make way for an outboard motor, 
or for any other purpose. Hinge the lazy-back far enough 
from the stern of the boat to have a slightly reclining 
position. 

Finish the board to match the seat it is to be fastened to. 

AN ANCHOR 

The anchor shown in the photograph of Fig. 466 is made of 
materials easily obtained. Having used one, you will never 
be without it when fishing, for it is a dependable anchor in 
every sense of the word. 

You will see by the detail drawings of Figs. 477 to 479 
that the anchor requires a large tin can (a No. 10 size is 
about right), a horseshoe, and concrete. Since little con¬ 
crete is required, you can probably get what you need from 
a mason’s batch. Usually enough is left over at the close of 
a working day, and this can be had for the asking if you 
happen around at the right time. 

Fill the can half-full of concrete, then set the ends of the 
horseshoe in it, center the shoe, and fill in the concrete to 
the brim of the can. When the concrete has set, tie a boat’s 
painter to the horseshoe. 



Those of you who have owned a boat know that it is some 
little job to recondition it in the Spring after its six months or 
more of storage high and dry, and that the older the boat 
and the less care given it, the bigger the job. Sometimes, a 
submersion of several days^ duration takes up the seams, 
making them absolutely tight. Much depends on the skill of 
the builder and the material put into the boat. If this doesn’t 
make the boat tight, a complete overhauling with a raking 
out of seams, and fresh calking, then the application of two 
or three coats of paint will do the trick; but this is an irksome 
job at the beginning of the season when one wishes to be at 
something more exciting. 

I 

WATERPROOFING 

Another method of rendering a boat leak-proof, and a 
method that will make it tight for many years if not for all 
time is by coating the hull with marine glue^ made especially 
for the purpose, then applying a good grade of unbleached 
cotton cloth and ironing it down into the glue and then 
painting. 

A brief description of the process of waterproofing may con¬ 
vince you that this is the proper method to adopt in finishing 
your flat-bottomed boat, or in reconditioning your old boat. 

311 




























312 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


If the boat has a flat bottom and the sides are in one piece, 
the waterproofing may be carried over the bottom and lapped 
2 inches over the side boards (Fig. 480); otherwise, it should 
be carried up to the gunwales. Of course, it must be carried 
over the seams at both the bow and stern (Fig. 481). 

Marine Glue may be obtained from any ship chandler or 
other dealer in water craft, and directions for applying will 
accompany it. 

The Covering Material should be a heavy grade of un¬ 
bleached muslin. This comes in double widths, and if your 
boat is without keel you can probably get it wide enough to 
apply in one piece. For a boat with keel, use two strips, one 
each side of the keel. Buy a package of ^-inch copper 
tacks for tacking. 

APPLYING THE WATERPROOFING' 

The first step is to remove all trim-strips under which the 
waterproofing is to go, and to clean all surfaces and remove 
loose paint. While doing this, have the glue heating. Put 
it in a pot and melt it as directed on the package. 

When all is in readiness for waterproofing, 

Apply the Glue thickly over the surfaces with a brush. The 
glue will set quickly as it chills, but concern yourself only 
with keeping that in the pot heated so that it will spread 
evenly. After applying the glue, go over the work and patch 
any places that you may have skipped. 

Spread the Cloth over the surface, and fit it neatly, pulling 
it where necessary to make it conform to the shape of the 
hull. Fasten it with copper tacks. 

Ironing the Cloth. Heat several flat-irons, or get an 
electric iron if electricity is at hand, and beginning at the 


Fig. 481. 



313 


Fig. 480.—If the Boat Sides Are in One Piece, Lap the Bottom Waterproofing Two Inches over the Side Boards. 
Fig. 481.—But if the Sides Are in Two or More Pieces Carry the Waterproofing Up to the Gunwales. 



















































314 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


stern, rub the iron over the cloth. The purpose of the iron is 
to sweat or melt the glue under the cloth, and draw it up into 
the pores of the cloth. As these results are obtained, move 
the iron to another spot and continue in this manner until 
every inch of the cloth is permeated with glue, and the 
surface is smooth without lumps of glue showing. 

Finishing. When the covering material has been ironed 
to your satisfaction, replace the trim-strips, and give the 
surface a good coat of shellac, then two or three coats of 
paint. 

It is claimed that this method of waterproofing adds from 
15 to 30 per cent stiffness to a boat, and certainly, because it 
keeps the hull absolutely dry, a boat so treated is much 
lighter than one that is water-soaked. This is an excellent 
means of reconditioning an old canoe and of patching holes 
in any water craft. 



You will find no better vacation fun than camping out in a 
houseboat. You can drift with the current of a river, propel 
the boat with oars or an outboard motor, or rig up a sail, or 
depend upon friendly motor-boat skippers to give you a tow 
now and then. You do not wish to be on the move all the 
time, however, for that leaves no time for explorations ashore, 
for fishing, photographing, and other activities. The best 
way to go is without definite schedule, except for the wind-up 
of the trip, which is usually necessary; then you can weigh 
and drop anchor at will. 

A simple houseboat requires nothing better than a flat- 
bottomed boat or scow for a hull, which may be decked over 
or not, as you choose, and a cabin. 

THE BUILDING MATERIAL 

If you have never built a boat, you will need to know some¬ 
thing about the work before starting the scow for the house¬ 
boat. Cypress is the best wood you can use, because of its 
great resistance to decay, though cedar and pine are also 
much used for boat-building. Since you cannot get boards 
wider than 12-inch stuff (really measuring inches wide), 
you must make the sides of the scow of two boards each. 

Use a 12-inch and a 4-inch board for them. Buy 4-or 6-inch 

315 



































3i6 




























































































A SHELTER-TENT HOUSEBOAT 


317 


boards (not tongued-and-grooved) for the bottom and the same 
size stock, tongued-and-grooved for the cabin floor and decks. 

Most boys own a tent of some sort, and this will serve as 
well for a boat cabin as for a land shelter. Indeed, I have 
taken it for granted that you have a tent, and in designing 
the home-made houseboat shown in Fig. 482 have made use 
of a tent for a cabin, one of the shelter or pup-tent type. The 
tent will save you time and material in building. 



Fig. 483. —Detail of Completed Pup-Tent Houseboat. 

THE HULL 

Figure 483 shows a detail of the completed houseboat, 
Fig. 484 a longitudinal section of the hull, lockers, and cabin, 
and Fig. 485 a plan of the hull, cabin floor, and deck. First, 
prepare 

The Sides. Figure 486 shows the cuts for the ends of the 
boards A. Be careful to trim the ends of both side boards 
alike. Batten boards A and B with the three battens C and 
two battens D, placing them as shown. Next, cut 









OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


318 

The Bow and Stern Pieces (£, Figs. 484 and 485) 5 feet 
10^ inches long and fasten them between the sides. Bevel 
the lower edge to correspond to the slant of boards A, 



Fig. 484.—A Longitudinal Section of the Houseboat, Showing Cabin and Lockers. 



Fig. 485.—Plan of Hull, Showing Construction of Cabin Floor and Deck. 


After assembling the bow, stern, and sides, cut 
The Bottom Boards F, invert the frame as shown in Fig. 487, 
and nail the boards in place, beginning at one end and work¬ 
ing toward the other. Coat the bottom edge of side boards 
A and the edges of the bottom boards with white lead. Use 










































































































































A SHELTER-TENT HOUSEBOAT 319 

galvanized nails for nailing, and drive each board close 
against the preceding piece. Unless the boards are well 
seasoned, there will be shrinkage in their width eventually; 
but when the hull is launched you will find that the water 
causes the boards to swell and the joints to become tight. 

The Cabin Floor {H, Figs. 484 and 485) may be omitted to 
save lumber, but of course it makes a neater job, and should 



Fig. 486.—Batten Together the Side Boards, and Slant the Ends of the Lower 

Piece Like This. 



there be a leakage anywhere, the water and rain and splash- 
ings would be held below the floor until you had time to raise 
a board and pump it dry. Before laying the cabin floor, 
fasten the five 2-by-4 ribs G (Figs. 484 and 485) between the 
sides of the boat, spacing them as shown; then give the entire 
inside of the hull two coats of oil paint. Run cabin floor 
boards H lengthwise of the hull, as shown in Fig. 485. 

The Decks come next. Notice by Figs. 483 and 484 that 

























320 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


the forward deck is longer than the after deck, to support the 
peak of the shelter tent. The spaces beneath the decks will 
be valuable for 

Lockers. These may be enclosed by hinged drop-leaves or 
doors, but will be handier to get at if left open. With the 
sides of the hull decked over 

Paint the Hull inside and out with two or three coats of a good 
grade of oil paint. As the cost is slight, it would be a good 
idea to waterproof the hull as described in Chapter XXXII. 

THE TENT CABIN 

Figures 483 and 484 show how to pitch the shelter tent, sup¬ 
porting it on a pair of poles. Stick the bottom of the poles 
through holes in the cabin floor, and drive a nail in the top of 
each pole on which to loop the grommets, or eyelets, of the 
tent ridge. Screw hooks into the sides of the hull on which 
to loop the grommets of the side edges of the tent. 

A shelter tent is enclosed at only one end, and it will be 
well to provide flaps for the open end for stormy weather. 

FITTINGS 

Buy ^-inch rope for a painter and fasten it to a heavy 
ring bolt set in the deck. Make an ajichor of a horseshoe 
set in a tin can filled with concrete, like that shown in the 
photograph of Fig. 466, or use a heavy sash-weight. 

A Pair of Oars should be part of the equipment. Set oar¬ 
locks in the deck near the bow where shown, to receive them. 
When the oars are in use, unbutton the rear peak of the tent 
and fasten back the flaps; then two lads can seat themselves 
upon the forward deck to handle the oars. Stow away the 
oars below decks when not in use. 




CHAPTER XXXIV 
A DIVING-RAFT AND A TOWER 


■la ^ I ■ I 


If you have had any experience in building rafts, you 
know that large timbers are necessary to provide buoyancy 
to support your weight. A platform of 2-by-4S and boards 
will float and carry a stationary center load if the balance is 
not disturbed by waves or other cause. On such a raft you 
can stretch full length along the center and float without 
difficulty; but roll to one side and you will receive a ducking 
quicker than a wink. Such a raft is more unstable than the 
flimsiest of water craft. True, it affords a lot of fun at the 
bathing-beach if by fun is meant horse play, but for a diving- 
platform such as most of you are interested in, it is of no 
account. 

The difficulty in building a raft of timbers is in getting 
large pieces. Then, too, unless painted or made otherwise 
impervious to water, timbers lose much of their buoyancy. 

A RAFT WITH AIR-TANKS 

Better than a raft of timbers is one equipped with air-tanks 
like that in Fig. 488. The best form of tank for the purpose 
is a tight barrel, such as the sheet-iron barrel in which 
lubricating-oils are shipped to garages and gasoline stations. 

Empty Oil Barrels have a commercial value because they 
are refillable, but by scouting around you can probably find 

321 





























322 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


a bargain. Once I found a dealer who wanted ^4 for a barrel; 
yet, in the country, too far out to make it worth while to 
return barrels to the refinery, another dealer asked only 50 
cents. See what you can do at the garage nearest the lake on 
which you plan to launch your craft. 



Fig. 488.—This Diving-Raft Equipped with Air-Tanks is More Practical than a 

Raft Supported on Timbers. 


A diving-raft 8 feet or so square should have an air-tank at 
each corner, therefore procure four barrels. After getting 
these, clean their outside surfaces, close up the spigot-hole 
and air-vent, and paint thoroughly with asphalt paint. 

Cradle Supports for the barrels must be built into the 
framework as shown in Fig. 489. The lengths of 2-by-4 rails 








































































A DIVING-RAFT AND A TOWER 


323 


A and B will be determined by the size you decide to make 
the raft. The diameter of the barrels will fix the spacing of 
inner rails B and cross-pieces C. Spike this cradle frame¬ 
work together as shown, then cut sill-plates E, and fasten 
them to the cradle framework by means of stilt-blocks D. 
Plates E will rest upon the barrels and the platform will rest 
upon the plates. 



Fig. 489.—Cradle Framework for Barrel Air-Tanks. 


The Raft Platform. Build this as shown in Fig. 490, using 
three 2-by-4S for joists F and lo-inch or 12-inch boards for 
flooring G. Seven-eighths inch stuff is thick enough for the 
flooring, with the exception of the piece H to which the end 
of the springboard is to be fastened. That piece should be 
inches thick. Spike the platform to plates E (Fig. 491), 
then cut diagonal braces I out of 4-inch boards, and nail 
them to rail A and joist F on each side of the raft, as shown. 
■ For the Diving Spring-board use a piece of lo-inch or 12- 
inch plank. Use a staple of the form of J (Figs. 492 and 493) 






































324 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

to hold its end to the raft platform. Go to a blacksmith 
and have him shape this out of 2-inch strap-iron and drill 
two ^-inch holes near each end for bolts. Bolt this staple to 



hi In k 



If, f 

HI 

jiji 


F 


p\ 

— - 


F — 


— 


Fig. 490. —Platform of Raft Inverted. 



Fig, 491. —Detail of Completed Raft. 


the center of the length of plank H with >^-inch bolts 3 
inches long. When the plank has been slipped through 
staple /, bolt the end to plank H with a pair of >2-inch bolts 
(Fig. 494). For a julcrum for the spring-board, bolt a block 
































































































A DIVING-RAFT AND A TOWER 


325 


of 2-by-io or 2-by-i2 {K, Fig. 495) and a block of 2-by-4 (Z) 
to the center of the raft platform in line with staple J 
(Fig. 488). 

Painting. It is just as important to paint a raft as any 
other water craft, and the best paint to use is white, because 
it has greater visibility after nightfall than any color. 



Fig. 495. Fig. 493. Fig. 494. 

Figs. 492 and 493. —Iron Staple for End of Springboard. 

Fig. 494. —After Slipping Springboard Plank Through the Staple, Bolt it to 
Platform. 

Fig. 495. —Fulcrum Blocks. 

Anchors. Of course, you must anchor the raft fore and 
aft to keep it from drifting. Staple a harness-ring to the 
center of each end of the platform to attach the anchor-rope 
to. You can make anchors of cans filled with cement, like 
that shown in Figs. 466 and 477, Chapter X XXI. 

A DIVING-TOWER 

It does not require much material to build the tower 
shown in Fig. 496, and by asking all who use your swimming 
site to contribute to the fund, it should be possible to collect 












326 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

more than enough to defray expenses, at a small charge per 
person. 

Build your diving-tower near the water’s edge to save the 
trouble of transporting it when completed. For 



Fig. 496. —Ask All Who Use Your Swimming-Hole to Contribute to the Material 

Fund for the Diving-Tower. 


The Building Material buy 2-by-4S for the framework. 
For corner posts and ladder rails order pieces 14 feet long. 
Make the ladder rungs of i-by-2S. The platform boards 
should be surfaced. The boards for the base cribbing may 
be old boards, because they will be entirely below the water’s 












































































A DIVING-RAFT AND A TOWER 


327 


surface. Their purpose is to retain the stones to be used for 
anchoring the tower. 



Fig. 497. —This Is the Way the Diving Tower Looks Before Its Base Is Submerged. 


The Framework detail of Fig. 497 has each member let¬ 
tered for the purpose of reference. To begin the framework, 
construct two frames like that in Fig. 498. After cutting 















































328 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


H- 3--0‘A_>| 



Fig. 498. —Make Two Frames Like This for the Start of the Tower. 





















A DIVING-RAFT AND A TOWER 


329 


horizontal plates B and C of the lengths marked, lay them 
and two corner posts A upon the ground, in the positions 
shown, plates B and C crossing the ends of posts A, and 
spike the plates in place. In assembling these pieces, care 
must be taken to get opposite angles alike. Spike plate D 
across posts A 8 feet above the base, and saw off its ends 
even with the sides of .the posts. 

When you have completed the pair of frames, connect 
them with the plates F, G and H (Fig. 497), cutting these 
pieces of the right lengths so the corner posts will be spaced 
equidistantly. 

Diagonal bracing is not necessary in the lower part of the 
frame, as the sides of the crib will act as bracing, but the 
upper portion should be braced with the diagonals E 
(Fig. 497). 

Raise the framework to its vertical position, and buildj 
A Crib by boarding up the sides from the base to a height of 
3 feet. 

Build the Ladder with 2-by-4 rails / and i-by-2 rungs J (Fig. 
497). Place the rungs 12 inches apart. You will find it 
easiest to build the ladder on the ground, then raise it and 
spike it to the framework. Fasten the lower end of the 
ladder about 12 inches above the base, so the tops of the 
rails will extend well above the top of the tower as shown. 

With the ladder in position, climb to the levels of 
The Platforms and nail the platform boards to plates C and 
Gj and D and /f, placing them inch apart so they will drain. 

For the Spring-board use a 2-by-io or 2-by-i2 plank {K, 
Fig. 497) and a round fence-post for fulcrum Z, or two blocks 
like K and L in Fig. 495, and an iron staple like J (Fig. 493). 


330 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Rig up the spring-board as described for the raft spring¬ 
board (Fig. 488). 

Dedication. Placing the tower in position, and anchoring 
it by filling the crib with stone, should be attended with 
some such ceremony as would befit a ship’s launching. In¬ 
vite one and all to come out and participate. Your invita¬ 
tion will probably be accepted unanimously, and, with pros¬ 
pects of diving immediately after the crib has been filled, 
you will find your guests a crew of willing workers. 

Another Type of Tower is one built upon a pier, like that 
shown in the photograph of Fig. 499. The construction is 
similar to that of the tower with the submerged base. 



Courtesy “ Y. M, C^A-^' Cbiaa^ 

Fig. 499 .—A ^an" Dive from a Tower Built on a Pier. 



Coxirtesy '■'■Elto Outl>oard Motor Co 

Fig. 500 .— Riding the Surf on a Water Scooter has All of the 

Thrills of Bareback Riding. 







Surf-Riding, the great water sport of the Hawaiian Islands, 
has been a fad along our ocean beaches for years, but not 
until recently has it invaded inland lakes and streams. Now, 
you find the water-plane everywhere, and riding behind a 
speed-boat has developed into one of the most popular 
diversions of the bathing-beach, or, rather, swimming-beach, 
for it is a stunt for the swimmer, not the ^^sinker”. 

Keeping your balance while speeding over the water in 
the wake of a motor-boat or other craft has all of the thrills 
of bareback-riding, with bare leg comfort, and it is incom¬ 
parable fun. Skill in balancing is easily acquired with prac¬ 
tice, and though there may be an occasional upset and con- 
sequerit ducking, you are dressed for it and have a stout 
pair of reins to hang on to. 

I have never seen a water-plane trailing behind an oar- 
propelled boat, but it is possible, and well enough for prac¬ 
tice. A power-boat is the craft to ride behind. This meant 
a naphtha launch when I was a lad; to-day it is a motor-boat 
or converted boat. Rowboats with powerful and speedy 
portable outboard motors are in greatest evidence, however. 
Perhaps you own one. If not, a neighboring resorter does, 
so there need be no concern over finding some one to trail if 

you want to indulge in surf-riding. Indeed, get your surf- 

331 



























332 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


board trailer and you will have more offers than you can 
accept. 

Like most equipment for new sports and fads, the first 
surf-boards in the American market were high-priced, within 
the means of those who can buy what the}^ want regardless 
of cost, no one else. Then came the water scooter, the surf¬ 
board in the ^^fliwer’’ class, shown in the photograph of 
Fig. 500. This model designed and manufactured by the 
Elto Outboard Motor Company for the purpose of increas¬ 
ing public interest in both surf-riding and motor-boating has 



Fig. 501. —This Water Scooter Type of Surf-Board, Shown in Action in Fig. 500 

is Within Your Means to Build. 

justified its inception, and has won favor among both sexes. 
Because the model is within your power to build, I have 
obtained permission to present the complete working plans 
in this chapter and to tell you about the construction. 

IT IS BUILT LIKE A CANOE 

The water scooter has much the same construction as a 
canvas-covered canoe, with a light two-way ribbed frame, 















A WATER SCOOTER OR SURF-BOARD 


333 


sheathed with close-fitting boards, then covered with Un¬ 
bleached muslin cemented on with waterproof marine glue 
and enameled. 

Figure 501 shows a sketch of the completed water scooter, 
Fig. 502 a detail of the completed framework. Fig. 503 a de¬ 
tail of the sheathed framework. Fig. 504 a plan of the frame¬ 
work, Figs. 505 and 506 cross-sections, and Figs. 507 to 510 
details of parts. 



Fig. 502.—The Water Scooter Has Much the Same Construction as a CanvaS' 

Covered Canoe. 


THE MATERIALS 

Select your materials with the object of constructing a 
strong, durable light-weight framework. Soft pine is good 
wood to use. Go to a lumber yard and tell tjie salesman 
what you want the wood for, and he will take pains to select 
straight, sound pieces. Four-inch boards %-inch thick are 
needed for the molds A and bow strip C, i-by-2-inch strips 
for side strips i-by-1-inch strips for ribs D and E, and ^- 
inch boards for the hull sheathing F and deck sheathing G. 




334 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Buy galvanized or cement-coated nails for assembling the 
framework. Six-penny nails are the right size for the frame¬ 
work and 4-penny nails for the sheathing. A paper of tacks 
will be needed for holding the cloth covering until glued fast. 
Doubled clothesline or ^-inch rope is needed for reins and 
tow-rope, and four 3-inch ring-bolts to set in the frame to 
attach it to. 



Get a heavy grade of unbleached muslin for the water¬ 
proof covering. This can be bought wide enough to cover 
the bottom, edges, and deck in one piece. Go to a ship- 
chandler or any store where boat supplies are sold, for marine 
glue. Buy good outdoor paint for the first two body coats, 
and automobile enamel for the finish coat. 

CUTTING THE PARTS 

The first parts of the framework to prepare are 
The Molds of which six are required (A ,Fig. 502). A pat¬ 
tern for laying these out is shown in Fig. 507. The curved 



A WATER SCOOTER OR SURF-BOARD 


335 


top edge is described with a 
radius of 50 inches. Use a 
stick with two brads driven 
through it 50 inches apart, 
one for a center, the other to 
scratch the arc with. Locate 
the pair of notches in the 
lower edge and the three in the 
upper edge where shown. As 
they are for the i-by-i ribs D 
and E, which will measure 
close to ^ inch square, make 
them square. 

The Side Strips^are straight 
pieces of i-by-2 of the length 
shown in Fig. 504, but 
The Bow Strip C is curved 
two ways, up and down by cut¬ 
ting, and sideways by bending. 
Figure 510 shows a pattern 
for this strip, with the dimen¬ 
sions for plotting the curves. 
The method of obtaining 
these dimensions is interesting, 
and I have shown in Figs. 508 
and 509 how it was done. For 
the sake of accuracy, the work 
was laid out full-size upon a 
sheet of wallboard placed upon 
the floor. With a radius of 










































































































336 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


50 inches, the curve of mold A was described, and the ends of 
the piece marked off upon the curve; then between the center 
and one end of the mold pattern, lines were drawn at right 
angles to the base of the piece parallel to one another and 
I inch apart. These parallel lines were extended as shown 
in the diagram of Fig. 509, and upon them a plan of the bow 



Fig. 505. —CrOss-Section of Water Scooter. 






Fig. 506. —Cross-Section of Bow. 



piece C laid out with the center in line with the center of the 
mold. The intersection of the parallel lines with the outer 
curve of the bow piece gave a series of points needed for plot¬ 
ting the curve of the top, and the distances between the 
points were measured and laid off upon the board to be used 
for the bow piece, as shown in Fig. 510. Through these 













































A WATER SCOOTER OR SURF-BOARD 


337 


points lines were then drawn at right angles to the edge, and 
parallel to one another, and on these lines the curve was 
plotted, the heights being taken from the mold diagram 
(Fig. 508) and laid off on corresponding lines on the bow 



Figs. 508 and 509. —Method of Obtaining Measurements for Plotting Curve of 

Top Edge of Bow Strip. 

piece (Fig. 510). A line drawn through the series of points 
produced the desired curve. A curve drawn through a 
series of points laid off inches below the first curve 
gave the line of the lower edge of the piece. A tracing of 
this half of the curves was then reversed for the second half. 



































338 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


T‘ 



Fig. 510. —How to Plot 
Curved Edges of Bow 
Strip, 


You will see by looking at the three dia¬ 
grams of Figs. 508 to 510, that when the 
bow piece has been cut and bent into the 
shape shown in Fig. 509, and fastened in 
the framework in line with the molds, 
every point on its upper edge will be on 
the same level as corresponding points on 
the molds, which is necessary. 

Cut the Ribs D and E the right lengths 
to'fit between rear mold A and bow strip C. 

ASSEMBLING THE PARTS 

To assemble the water-scooter frame¬ 
work, first nail side strips B to the ends 
of four of the molds A, spacing the latter 
as indicated in Fig. 504. Then fit rib strips 
D and E in the notches in molds A , and 
nail them in place. Next, bend the ends of 
bow strip C correctly, and fasten its ends 
to the remaining pair of molds A. Spread 
the bow ends of the rib strips, screw the 
fifth mold (fastened between the bow strip 
ends) to the fourth mold (fastened be¬ 
tween the side strip ends), and then trim 
off the ends of the rib strips to fit against 
the bow strip and nail the bow strip to 
them. Notice by Fig. 502 that rib strips 
E are fastened to the bow strip even with 
its top, and that rib strips D curve up 
and are fastened to the bow strip even 









































A WATER SCOOTER OR SURF-BOARD 


339 


with its bottom. This produces a curve to the under 
side of the bow, as is indicated by the cross-section of 
Fig. 506. 

When the framework has been assembled, 

Sheath the Bottom and Deck with the ^-inch boards pro¬ 
cured for the purpose. There are several manufactured 
materials known as Insulation Lumber used in building con¬ 
struction, that would lend themselves to the purpose of 
sheathing up the water scooter. The material can be ob¬ 
tained in large pieces, bent to the shape desired, and nailed 
securely. 


THE WATERPROOF COVERING 

The method of applying marine glue, then spreading the 
unbleached muslin covering material over the surfaces and 
ironing it with a hot iron, sweating the glue, and drawing it 
up into the pores of the goods until all are permeated, is 
described in detail in Chapter XXXII. 

FINISHING 

When the waterproof covering has been applied, the water 
scooter is ready for 

Painting. Apply two coats of a good grade of oil paint to all 
surfaces, then a final coat of automobile enamel. Use your 
own idea of color. A good combination is white with 
a red band several inches inside the outer edge, or red 
with a white band. That portion of the deck on which 
the surf-rider stands should be rough, and the way to 
make it so is to sprinkle sand upon the freshly enameled 
surface. 


340 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Reins and the Tow-Rope are shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 500 and the sketch of Fig. 501. Bore holes 
through side strips B of the framework, for the ring-bolts 
Fig. 505, locating those for the tow-rope rings 24 inches from 
the bow and those for the rein rings 4 inches back of that 
point. 



Shooting the chutes has become one of the popular diver¬ 
sions at public bathing beaches, and it is a thrilling sport I 
assure you. From a platform usually 20 feet or more high, 
reached by a stairv^ay, the chute extends out over the water. 
Down this the bather coasts on a sled-like device mounted 
upon wheels or rollers, and at the foot shoots off on to the 
water and bounds over the surface or submerges and receives 
a ducking. Though the water is shallow at the point of 
landing, the bather who cannot swim must wear a life- 
preserver; however, you should know how to swim before 
engaging in this or any other water sport. 

FINANCING A SMALL CHUTE 

A group of you boys can build a small chute like the one 
illustrated in Fig. 511 at small cost, and the investment can 
be quickly repaid by making a nominal charge to bathers 
outside your club. If you havenff enough money to finance 
the materials yourselves, you can probably find some one 
willing to advance the money necessary, for a term of sixty 
days or so, by which time there should be enough receipts 
from rides to pay off the loan. 

THE MATERIAL 

Buy 2-by-4S for the uprights and plates of the framework, 

i-by-6 boards for rails, struts and cribbing, and 2-by-ios or 

341 




























342 


Fig. 511.—All Ready for the Big Splash. 




































































































A WATER CHUTE 


343 


2-by- I2S for the slide and platforms. Old boards will'^do as 
well as new, but the planks for the slide should be free from 
cracks and defects that would make a broken or uneven 
coasting surface. 

Figure 511 shows a water chute with a platform 8 feet 
above the ground. This height may be increased if you 
want a higher slide. In fact, you can alter any or all dimen- 



Fig. 512.—A Longitudinal Section of the Water Chute. 

sions as you see fit. The illustrated chute is erected upon 
a water-level shore. If the shore is high, cut away the 
bank for the slide or for the starting-platform, and thus 
save material. 

THE CONSTRUCTION 

The longitudinal section of the starting-platform, slide, and 
base (Fig. 512) has its parts lettered, and these parts are cor¬ 
respondingly lettered on the detailed drawings to make the 
construction clear. 




















































344 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


The Taking-off Platform is the first portion of the chute 
to build (Fig. 513). This should be placed where the water is 
not over 3 feet deep, and its base must be anchored with 
stones as shown in Fig. 512. Start the framework by mak¬ 
ing a pair of frames like that in Fig. 514, cutting uprights A 
5 feet 6 inches long, and plate B and cribbing boards C 


T 


CO 

’10 


i 

Fig. 513. Fig. 514. 

Figs. 513 and 514. —Details of Support for the Taking-off Platform, 

22 inches long. After assembling these frames, connect them 
with side boards D 4 feet long (Fig. 513). Complete the 
framework by fitting struts B to uprights A as shown. 

This lower platform must be planked over with 2-inch 
stuff (F, Fig. 512). Cut the planks of the right length to 
project 2 feet or so over end plate B as shown. The projec¬ 
tion is necessary to preclude all possibility of the coaster's 
striking the framework after leaving the taking-off platform. 



22= 


CM 

.1 

ro 


I 




A 


























































A WATER CHUTE 


345 


W ith the taking-off platform anchored, locate 
The Starting-Platform. If a tree can be used to help sup¬ 
port it, bracing will be saved. Figure 515 shows a detail of 
the completed platform framework, and Fig. 516 shows one 



Fig. 515. 


Fig. 516, 


Figs. 5i5_and 516.—Details of Starting-Platform. 


of the pair of frames of which it is made, with dimensions for 
uprights H, plate /, and rail J. After cutting and nailing 
the plate and rail to the uprights, fit diagonal struts K and 
L in place, and nail them to the uprights. With the frames 
assembled, stand them in position, connect their lower ends 





































































































346 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


with cross rails M and their plates with platform planks N, 
and nail struts 0 in place. 

The Slide. The 2-by-4 plate P (Fig. 515) is spiked to 
uprights H to support the upper end of the slide planking Q 
(Fig. 512). The lower end of the planks rest upon the lower 
platform. Spike the ends in place. 

Build a trestle similar to one of the pair of frames of the 
starting platform (Fig. 516) to support the center of the 
slide. An upright of this is marked R in Fig. 512. Cut the 
uprights long enough to extend to the lake bottom, and place 
rocks for them to stand upon. Brace the trestle with struts 

5 and T (Fig. 512). 

The starting-platform is reached by 
A Ladder, and the way to build this is shown in Fig. 512. 
Spike the 2-by-4 side rails U to corner uprights JT, then 
nail i-by-2 crosspieces V to them 12 inches apart. Allow 
the tops of side rails U to project several feet above the 
platform, and rig up a hand rail (IF) along one side of the 
platform, as shown. 

Tracks or guides along each side of the slide keep the 
coaster from running oh. ' Strips of i-by-2 will do (A, Fig. 
512). Space the strips about 13 inches apart and nail well. 

THE COASTER 

Figure 517 shows an easily made coaster with roller-skate 
wheels, and Fig. 518 shows a plan of the under side. Side 
rails A are pieces of 2-by-4, foot board B is a piece of 8-inch 
board, seat C is a piece of lo-inch board, dash Z) is a strip 

6 inches wide. Nail side rails A to the ends of board B,and 
nail dash D to the ends of the rails. Fasten the seat-board 


A WATER CHUTE 


347 



Fig. 517.—Coaster with Roller-Skate Wheels. 

Fig. 518.—Plan of Under Side of Coaster. 

Fig. 519.—This is the Way to Separate the Skate-Wheels. 


























































































































































348 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


to the rails with two pairs of 2-inch iron angle-braces placed 
as shown at E (Fig. 518). 

You will see by Fig. 518 how to attach 
The Roller-Skate Wheels. Separate the front and rear pairs 
of wheels by loosening the adjustment bolts and pulling 
the frames apart (Fig. 519). Nail a pair of %-inch strips to 
each rail for the clamps of the toe halves of the skates to grip, 
(F, Figs. 517 and 518) and bolt the sole-plate to the rails at 
the points marked G, with ^-inch bolts. Strap the heel 
halves of the skates to the rear end of the rails as shown in 
Fig. 517, and bolt the sole-plate at the points marked G with 
X-inch bolts, running the bolts through the rails and the 
seat board. 

Finish the Coaster by sandpapering all surfaces, then 
applying two or three coats of paint. Yellow rails and a 
red dash and seat are attractive combinations of color. 

One coaster will be sufficient at first. As the popularity 
of the water chute increases, you may add others. 

A COASTER RAILWAY, AN ALTERNATIVE PLAN 

Those of you who do not have a ‘^swimmin’-hole’’ site for a 
water chute can build a coaster railway on the same plan. 
Pile grass or hay to a depth of 3 feet or more at the foot of 
the slide for a ‘‘shock absorber,’’ or carry the slide on down 
and continue the track along the ground. If you would add 
a thrill to the coaster railway, set up a lawn-sprinkler with 
spray directed so as to strike the coaster as he descends. 
That will supply an excuse for wearing one’s bathing-suit. 



Fisherman’s luck rarely accompanies high-class tackle. 
You can lay down a pile of coins at a sporting-goods store, 
on the advice of an ambitious salesman, and walk off with 
the best of everything the market affords, only to learn that 
it is a dude outfit in your inexperienced hands. Indeed, 
home-made tackle often pulls in the larger string, which goes 
to prove that the man behind the rod counts for more than 
rod, line, and lure. You may not be a successful Nimrod at 
first unless the fisherman’s instincts are in you, but with 
patient application you will learn the wrinkles and acquire 
the skill to make the most of them. 

Opportunity to fish unexpectedly presents itself when you 
have no tackle along, and at such times a home-made rod is 
more than welcome; then, too, an extra rod comes in handy 
when you have a guest. You can easily make one, and 
there are other parts of tackle that you can fashion, and 
tackle-box, stringers, line drying-racks, and other handy 
devices displayed tantalizingly in sporting-goods stores. 

A HOME-MADE FISHING-ROD 

Near the site of almost every fishing ground you will find 
a long slender pole suitable for a rod. The straighter, the 
.better it will look, but from a practical standpoint there can 
be no objection to a curve or two, provided they do not 

349 































350 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


weaken the pole, as, for example, a curve starting from the 
intersection of two branches. The bark may be left on the 
pole or peeled ofif. If removed, rub down the surface with 
sandpaper, then shellac it. 

Of course, if you want a finely finished rod, you can shape 
one of three pieces of selected material, but this is a prob¬ 
lem for the home workshop where you have a bench and 
vise. It requires time and accurate work to turn out a job 
acceptable to the fisherman used to the refinements of 
modern bamboo and steel rods. 

The Tip of the home-made rod (Figs. 520 and 521) is 
shaped from a safety pin (Fig. 522). Cut off the clasp end 
of the pin as indicated, bend back the spring coil of the other 
end slightly and whip the wires to the pole with waxed 
thread, using the method shown in Figs. 528 to 530 and de¬ 
scribed on the following page. 

Guides also can be made of safety-pins. After snipping 
off the coiled end of a pin as shown in Fig. 521, bend up the 
wire ends in opposite directions as in Fig. 523. Whip waxed 
thread around the rod and wire ends in attaching the guide 
(Fig. 524). 

Another form of guide is shown in Fig. 525. It is nothing 
more than a paper clip (Fig. 526) with the center loop bent 
at right angles. Simpler than either of the above is the 
screw-eye (Fig. 527), but it must not be used on a slender 
pole that it is likely to weaken. 

FISHING-POLE REPAIRS 

Lost Tips and Guides, or broken ones, may be replaced 
. with the home-made tips and guides just described. 


FISHING-TACKLE 


351 


Broken Rods of wood and bamboo usually are easy to re¬ 
pair. If the break comes near a joint end, the best way is to 
remove the broken wood from the ferrule, square off the 
broken end of the joint, and shape it down to drive into the 
ferrule. But if the break is at or near the center of the joint, 
you will want to make a splice rather than reset the ferrule 

Fig. 528. 



Fig. 520.—Any Straight Pole Will do for a Rod, an Extra Rod at Least. 

Figs. 521 and 522.—The Tip May Be Made of a Safety Pin. 

Figs. 523 and 524.—Guides May Be Made the Same Way But Bent Like This- 
Figs. 525 and 526.—Or of Paper Clips Bent Like This. 

Fig. 527.—Or of Screw-Eyes. 

Figs. 528-530.—Whip a Spliced Joint Like This. 


at that point and lose so much length of rod. If the rod 
is snapped off square, the broken ends must be beveled off as 
shown in Fig. 528, so there will be a lap of 3 inches or so. 
Complete the splice by 

Whipping the joint with waxed fishing-line. Figure 528 shows 
the first step, laying a loop of the whipping-line along the 









































































































352 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


rod. The end of the line is marked A , the standing part 
B and the loop C. The second step, shown in Fig. 529, is 
to wind standing part B over the line and around the pole, 
pressing the turns close together, winding from one end of 
the splice to the other. Stick the end of standing part B 
through loop C, then for the third step (Fig. 530), pull end 
A until loop C and standing part B are drawn under the 
turns as indicated by dotted lines. Trim off the ends of A 
and B even with the whipping. Then give the joint a 
coating of shellac. 


FLOATS 

Of the various home-made floats in use, the commonest 
form and the easiest to make is 

The Cork Float shown in Fig. 531. It is only necessary to 
cut the bottle-cork along one side a trifle past the center, 
with a knife, so the line can be slipped in as shown. 

SINKERS 

A favorite form of sinker is made of 
BB Shot (Fig. 532). Get a few BB shot at a hardware or 
sporting-goods store, hold them in a vise and slot them with 
a hack-saw as shown in Fig. 533. Slip the line into the slots 
and hammer until the line is pinched, when the BBs will 
hold fast. 

Cast Sinkers of the type shown in Fig. 534 are easily cast 
in lead in wooden molds. To make the molds, take a block 
of wood 2 inches wide and 2 inches thick, and drill holes of the 
diameter and depth wanted (Fig. 535), boring the holes with 
their centers in a straight line. Then saw the block in half 


FISHING-TACKLE 


353 


along the center of the holes, and you will have two half¬ 
molds like those in Figs. 536 and 537. 

To cast the sinkers, bind the molds together with string or 

Fig. 533. Fig. 532. 



Fig. 538. Fig. 537. 

Fig. 531.—Cork Float. 

Figs. 532 and 533.—BB Shot Sinkers. 

Fig. 534.—Sinker Cast in Lead. 

Figs. 535-538.—Details of Mold for Casting Sinkers. 

wire (Fig. 538). Then make loops of wire to cast in the cen¬ 
ters for eyes. You can use lead or solder for casting. Melt 
it in a can-cover, then holding the wire eye in position with a 
pair of pincers and the can-cover with another pair, pour the 












































































































354 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


molten metal into the molds. It is but an instant’s work to 
separate the molds and remove the castings. 

Fig. 540. . Fig. 544. 



Fig. 539.' Fig. 546. 


Fig. 547. 

I— 

==^fe=s== 

Fig. 548. 

Fig. 539. —Hitch Stone Sinkers to Line Like This. 

Figs. 540 and 541. —Attach Ringed Sinkers This Way. 

Figs. 542 and 543. —How to Attach Ringed Hook to Line. 

Figs. 544 and 545. —Join Snell to Snelled Hook in This Way. 

Fig. 546. —Attach Line to Snelled Hook with Sheet-Bend. 

Figs. 547 and 548. —Join Two Lines or Pieces of Gut With This Fisherman’s Knot. 




Stone Sinkers serve as well as any, and it is easy to find 
just the weight wanted. Figure 539 shows the hitch to use in 
fastening stone sinkers to the line, and while we are on the 
subject of hitches, let us see some of the 
















































FISHING-TACKLE 


355 


KNOTS AND HITCHES USED BY FISHERMEN 

Figures 540 and 541 show the way to attach ringed sinkers, 
doubling the line and running it through the end rings 
(Fig. 540), then slipping the hook end of the line through the 
loop (Fig. 541) and pulling taut. 

To attach a line to a ringed hook, slip it through the ring, 
and make several turns upon the shank of the hook, as 
shown in Fig. 542, then crowd the turns together and pull 
close to the ring (Fig. 543). 

To attach a snell to the loop of a snelled hook, slip it 
through the loop (Fig. 544), then slip it over the hook and 
draw the two loops together as shown in Fig. 545. 

To attach a line to a snelled hook, use a sheet bend. The 
,way to form this is shown in Fig. 546. 

To join one line to another, or one piece of gut to another, 
place them alongside each other, and with each end form an 
overhand knot over the other, as shown in Fig. 547. Then 
draw the knots together as shown in Fig. 54 ^* This is 
known as the fishermen’s knot. It is easily loosed by pull¬ 
ing- the knots apart and untying them. 

A SMALL TACKLE-BOX 

When you see a fisherman with a nice shiny green enam¬ 
eled tin tackle-box fitted with trays partitioned off into com¬ 
partments of different sizes, and filled with lines, all sorts of 
hooks and flies, patent baits, leaders, sinkers, swivels, bobs 
and stringers, perhaps you feel a bit envious. But, remem¬ 
ber that the outfit does not make the fisherman. Perhaps 
the owner of that box is one of those novices who buy a 
complete outfit regardless of cost and without knowledge of 


356 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


the purpose of most of it. Yet, a tackle-box is a mighty 
good thing to have, and if you do not own a box you should 
make one, so you can keep your tackle in order. 

If you have acquired the knack of soldering, you can 
make just as good a tin box as the store models, but you will 
find the box shown in Fig. 549 made from a cigar-box 9 


Fig. 550. 



Fig. 549. —With a Tackle Box You Can Keep Your Tackle in Order. 

Figs. 550 and 551.—Make the Box and Partitions Out of Cigar-Boxes. 

Fig. 552. —Strap Handle for Box. 

inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2^ inches deep, good enough 
for a small outfit, and compact and easy to carry. 

To Prepare the Cigar-Box place it in hot water to loosen 
the paper labels, then when clean bind the cover to the bot¬ 
tom with string to hold it flat, and place the box in the sun or 
near to a stove to dry. Figure 550 suggests how to partition 
off the box into compartments. Make the partitions of 


































FISHING-TACKLE 


357 


cigar-box wood. Cut partition A the length of the box, and 
partitions B about two-thirds of the width of the box. 
Nail partition A to the ends of partitions B with brads, 
spacing the cross partitions at equal distances apart (Fig. 551). 
Then slip the assembled partitions into the box and fasten 
with brads driven through the ends and sides of the box. 

Hinge the cover to the box with a strip of linen i inch wide 
by the length of the box, glueing and lapping it over the edge 
of the cover and box as shown in Fig. 549. 

A strap handle should be fastened to the side of the box, as 
shown in Fig. 549. A piece of a school-strap can be used. 
Fasten it with a pair of short stove bolts. Bore holes 
through the strap and box to admit the bolts (Fig. 552). A 
strap with a buckle should be provided for fastening the 
cover, and this should be attached to the box and cover 
with stove bolts to hold it in position. 

STRINGERS 

There are several kinds of fish stringers upon the market, 
but none better than that shown in Fig. 553, and you can 
easily make one like it. One end of the stringer has a needle 
{A) made of a 6-inch piece of heavy wire, with one end 
sharpened to a point and the other bent into a hook (Fig. 
554), and the other end of the stringer has a piece of heavy 
wire 6 inches long {B) bent to form a small loop at its center 
(Fig. 555). A piece of chain a yard long (C) forms the body 
of the stringer. If you cannot get chain, use a piece of small 
sash cord or heavy wrapping-twine. 

Figure 556 shows the same kind of stringer with a package- 
handle hooked on to the end of the chain. With the needle 


358 


0U1T)00R BOY CRAFTSMEN 


end of the chain slipped over the second wire hook, you have 
a handle to carry the stringer by. 

The Way to Use a Stringer is obvious. The needle is 
slipped through the fishes gill and out of its mouth. Fish 



Fig. 555. Fig. 553. Fig. 554. Fig. 556. 

Fig. 553. —As Good a Stringer as You Can Buy. 

Figs. 554 and 555. —Stringer End Pieces. 

Fig. 556. —The Same Stringer With Package-Handle Attached to One End. 


will live for some time on a stringer immersed in water, but 
it is cruel treatment though not often considered such, for 
death eventually comes through suffocation. To be humane, 
kill your specimens as hauled in. A blow from a stick on 
the back of the neck will do the trick. 












FISHING-TACKLE 


359 


A FISHING-LINE DRYING-REEL 
A good fisherman is as careful of his tackle as a workman 
of his tools, and one thing he is particular about is the drying 



Fig. 557.—If You Would Take Care of Your Line, Make and Use a Drying-Reel 

. Like This. 

of his line. If you would be a successful fisherman, there¬ 
fore, take care of your line. 

Some fishermen dry their lines by running them back and 































































36 o 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Fig. 560. 




Fig. 558. 


Fig. 558. —Cross-Section of Fishing Line Drying Reel Mounted Upon Tree Trunk 
Fig. 559. —Front View of Reel. 

Fig. 560 and 561.—Details of Reel, 

























































FISHING TACKLE 


361 


forth over nails driven into trees, into a rail fence, or into a 
shed wall, but the process is slow compared with winding 
it upon a large reel of the form shown in Fig. 557. This 
reel is quickly made. Fasten it to a tree near the boat- 
landing, where it will be handy to use. 

Figure 558 is a cross-section of the drying-reel. Fig. 559 is 
a front view. There are four arms, each built up as shown 
in Fig. 560, of a strip A with two short finger strips B nailed 
to the end. Figure 557 shows how in assembling the reel 
each arm is nailed to the arm one side of it, and Fig. 559 
shows how center block C is nailed to the edges of all four 
arms. A hole is bored through the center of block C for the 
bolt E (Fig. 561), another hole is bored through a board D 
(Fig. 561) and the reel is bolted to board D. A spool F 
screwed to the edge of one of the arms (Figs. 558 and 559) 
forms a handle for turning the reel. 

In fastening the reel to a tree or other support, use screws, 
so it can be removed easily at any time desired. 



Catching minnows for bait is more fun than digging 
worms. And after you have pursued the sport for several 
hours you have a better appreciation of the little fellows’ 
ability to escape capture. You must handle the seine 
skillfully or be satisfied with a small catch. 

A HOME-MADE SEINE 

It takes but little time to make a seine like that shown in 
Fig. 562,if you have the materials at hand, mosquito-netting ' 
40 inches wide by the length you wish to have the seine, two 
poles 5 feet long, corks and spools for floats, and scraps of 
metal for sinkers. 

To Make It, tack the netting to the pair of poles so one 
edge comes several inches above the lower end. Then cut 
two pieces of clothesline 12 inches longer than the distance 
between poles. Use these ropes for binding the upper and 
lower edges of the netting. Turn the netting over the ropes 
and stitch it to them. Tie the rope ends to the poles. 

Run pieces of wire through corks and spools (Fig. 563) and 
twist the wires around the upper rope for floats. Use any 
small pieces of hardware that you can find for sinkers— 
bolts, nuts, hinges, screen buttons, hooks, and pieces of 
similar weight (Fig. 564). Wire them to the lower rope 

362 

























A MINNOW-SEINK AND OTHER DEVICES 363 


binding. Round off the upper ends of the poles for 
handles. 

A Good Way to Handle the Seine is to lower it beneath 
the surface and drop a clam-shell into it. The shell will 
attract the minnows’ attention and by quickly lifting the 
seine a school of them should reward your effort. 



Fig. 562. Fig. 564. 

F1G.562. —After Using a Seine You Appreciate Minnows’Ability to Escape Capture. 
Figs. 563 and 564. —Floats and Sinkers for the Seine. 

A MINNOW TRAP 

The trap shown in Fig. 565 is a successful type easily made. 
It may be used with or without bait. Placed in the water 
on the lake or stream bottom, the minnows soon dikover the 




364 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

trap’s end openings, and after one or two have entered others 
follow. You can drive minnows into the trap by wading 
around it a few yards away, turning over stones and forcing 
the minnows from their hiding places. The trap breaks in 
the center for removing captured minnows. 

Figures 566 to 569 show how to make 
The Wire Cylinders. Ordinary black wire cloth sold for 
window screens can be used for the enclosures, but galvanized 


Fig. 565. —Minnows Enter the Trap Ends, and the Trap Breaks at the Center for 

Their Removal. 

wire cloth is more durable and the difference in cost is slight. 
A tin pail 9 inches or more in diameter makes a good form 
around which to bend the wire (Fig. 566). Bend the wire 
around it as shown, trim oh the ends flush with the pail top 
and bottom, lap yi inch of the side edges and join them with 
strands of unravelled wire, weaving these in and out through 
the meshes. 

Figure 567 shows the wire-cloth cylinder removed from its 
pail form. Make a second cylinder like it. The ends of the 












































































































































A MINNOW-SEINE AND OTHER DEVICES 365 

cylinders must be fastened to hoops of heavy wire. Figure 
568 shows the hoop for the larger end of the cylinders. The 
small wire loops are formed and their ends twisted around 
the hoop after the hoop ends are joined. The loops on the 
large hoop of one cylinder must be in the same relative posi- 

Fig. 566. Fig. 568. 




Fig. 569. Fig. 567. 

Fig. 566.—Pail Form for Shaping Wire Cylinders. 

Figs. 567-569.—Details of Cylinders, Conical Ends, and Hoops. 


tions as those on the hoop of the other cylinder, so when the 
trap is set up the loops will come together as shown in Fig. 
565, and pegs can be slipped through theiin to lock the trap. 
Figure 569 shows one of 

The Conical Ends of the trap. Roll a piece of wire into coni- 
cal form with the base or large end of the same diameter as 
























































































































































366 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


the small end of the cylinder, and snip oh the apex so there 
will be an opening there of about i inch diameter. Wire 
the cones to the hoops in the small ends of the cylinders. 



P'lG. 570.—If the Water Near Shore is Deep Enough, That is a Good Location for 

this Live-Bait Trap. 

A LIVE-BAIT BOX 

Having caught a supply of minnows, you must keep them 
alive until ready to use them for bait, and the best container 
is a live-bait box like that shown in Fig. 570, made with wire 
covered bottom, sides and top that there may be a constant 
supply of fresh air and water, 









































A MlNNOW-SiaNJC AM) O'I'HKR DEVICP.S 367 



How to Make It. Besides a box, procure some screen 
wire-cloth, a pair of hinges, a hinge-hasp and staple, and 
nails. Remove the side boards of the box and in their place 
nail strips A and B (Fig. 571), placing strips A even with the 
top of the end pieces and strips B even with the bottom of the 
end pieces. Then remove the bottom boards, cut one of the 


Fig. 571. —With Bottom, Sides and Top Covered with Wire Cloth, Air and Water 

Circulate Through the Live-Bait Box. 

right length for cover-board C, and make a frame of the 
others to fit the remainder of the box top. 

With this done, cover the box bottom, sides, and top frame 
with wire cloth, fastening it with copper or galvanized tacks. 
Hinge the wire-covered frame to cover-board C, and put on 
the hinge-hasp and staple as a provision for padlocking. 

















































































































368 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Support the Box on Stilts so all except its top is sub¬ 
merged. If the water near shore is deep enough, that is a 
good place for it. A pier is another good location. Here 
you can remove a board or two of the flooring, batten them 
together, and hinge to open. 



Fig. 572.—Dip-Net for Removing Bait from the Live-Bait Box. 

Fig, 573.—Barrel-Hoop Frame for Net. 

A DIP-NET 

Make a dip-net like that in Fig. 572 for removing bait from 
your live-bait box. Eight inches is a large-enough diameter 
for the hoop, and 10 inches is deep enough for the net. The 

































A MINNOW-SEINE AND OTHER DEVICES 369 


frame is a barrel hoop (Fig. 573) and the handle is a crotched 
stick with a crotch of the right form to fit around the hoop 
as shown. Make a net of mosquito netting, marquisette, 
or bobbinet and fasten it over the hoop, then wire the hoop 
to the fork. 



Fig. 574.—A Pail and Pie-Tin make This Dandy Minnow-Bucket. 
Figs. 575 and 576. —Detail of Pie-Tin Cover and Buttons. 


Another plan for a hand-net is shown in Fig. 202, Chapter 
XIII. 

A MINNOW-BUCKET 

A galvanized pail 9 or 10 inches in diameter and a pie-tin of 
equal diameter make the dandy minnow-bucket shown in 















370 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Fig. 574. It is important to have the pie-tin of the same 
diameter as the pail, so its brim will rest upon the brim of the 
pail. The looped ends of the wire bail will project over the 
brim of the pie-tin and hold it down. To keep the tin from 
slipping sideways, bolt a pair of tin buttons to the sides of 
the pail as shown. Cut these buttons out of a doubled 
piece of tin of the shape of A (Fig. 576). Punch a hole near 
one end of the piece of tin for a stove bolt (B)j and punch a 
hole of the same diameter through the pail near the top, 
through which to slip the bolt. Screw the nut (C) on to the 
bolt to hold the button in place. 

Perforate the pie-tin as shown in Fig. 575, punching the 
holes with the point of a nail. Paint the bucket inside and 
out with two coats of red or green paint. Automobile-body 
enamel is good for the purpose. 

A FLOATING MINNOW-BUCKET 

Any pail you can get will do for the minnow-bucket shown 
in Fig. 577, but you must have it at hand before making the 
.wire inset (Fig. 578), because this must fit the pail. An ad¬ 
vantage of the inset container is that it can be hung over the 
side of the boat or pier independent of the pail, and minnows 
can be picked out more easily since they are left ^^high and 
dry” when the inset is lifted clear of the water. 

The Inset is of wire cloth. Figure 579 shows how first to 
form a cylinder to fit the pail. Unravel the wire ends, inter¬ 
lock them with the mesh and bend them over. Cut two 
circular pieces of wire cloth for the cylinder ends, ravel the 
edges, bend up the wire ends as shown in Figs. 580 and 581, 
and fasten them to the cylinder. Cut a large square open- 


A MINNOW-SEINE AND OTHER DEVICES 


371 


Fig. 582. 


Fig. 579 . 



Fig. 577 . 


Fig. 578. 


Pjq^ 277.—The Inset of this Floating Minnow-Bucket may be Hung in the Water 

Independent of the Pail. 

Figs. 578-582,—Details of Inset. 














































































































































































































































372 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


ing in the top piece (Fig. 581), and make a lid of a piece of 
wire cloth (Fig. 582), hinging it with wire strands to fit over 
the opening. Form a wire staple on the edge of the open¬ 
ing, opposite the hinge edge, and punch a hole in the lid to 
admit the staple. Provide a nail to slip through the staple 
after the lid has dropped, to pin it shut. 



Success with this trap depends upon its being placed so 
turtles will seek its top to sun themselves. If you find a 
bank or log where turtles are accustomed to crawl out of the 
water, locate the trap in that vicinity. You wiU see by 
Figs. 583 and 584 that when the turtle crawls above the cen¬ 
ter of the trap, the top tilts and slides him into the box, 
after which the cover automatically closes and the trap is set 
for the next victim. 


THE BOX 

Almost any box you come across will serve for the trap, 
but it is well to have it at least 10 inches deep, 12 inches wide, 
and 14 inches long. If there are no cover-boards, you will 
have to cut some pieces for 

The Tilting Top. These boards {A, Fig. 585) must be fas¬ 
tened together with a pair of battens (B). Make the tilting 
top enough narrower and shorter than the box to swing 
without binding. At least X i^^h should be allowed all 
around for clearance, because the wood will swell when wet. 
Pivot the top with nails or screws driven through the box ends 
into its edges, i inch off center. Then the top will close auto¬ 
matically. Block C (Fig. 584) is nailed to the lower side 
of the trap as a stop to check the tilting top when it closes. 

373 
































374 


OUTDOOR.ROY CRAFTSMEN 



F1G.583.—To Make Sure that Your Prospective Soup-Meat, or Aquarium Speci¬ 
mens Will Seek the Highest Point of This Trap, Use Raw Meat for Bait. 



Fig. 584.—Cross-Section Showing How the Trap Works. 
Fig. 585.—Detail of the Tilting Top. 



































































































A TURTLE-TRAP 


375 


Board D is bracketed to the lower side of the box to form 
an incline that will be partly submerged when the trap is set 
up. Four or 5 inches is wide enough for this piece. Sup¬ 
port it on a couple of blocks nailed to the box sides (£). 
Bore a number of holes through the upper side of the box 
for air vents (Fig. 584). 

\ 

SETTING UP THE TRAP 

To set up the turtle-trap, drive two stakes into the lake or 
stream bottom at the right distance apart to admit the box, 
and drive nails through the stakes into the box. 

Your prospective soup-meat or aquarium specimens will 
naturally seek the highest point of the trap for their sun 
bath; still, not to take chances, 

Bait the Trap by nailing a piece of liver or other raw meat 
to the upper part of the tilting top. 



If we could study marine life as we study birds in the 
fields and woods, we should have an added interest in boating. 
And provided that fish could see objects above the water no 
better than they do now, it would operate to the fisherman’s 
advantage and he would not sit patiently a day at a time with 
line and bait dangling in water where fish did not abound. 
But the fact that we cannot see into the depths, except in 
still, clear waters, whets our curiosity and makes more en¬ 
joyable such treats as the remarkable marine films released 
as a part of moving-picture programs. , 

All of you can study under-water life through the medium 
of the marine telescope. Such an instrument may be had 
at slight expense, yet the principle involved is so simple that 
you can easily devise one for use on the waters you visit. 

A HOME-MADE MARINE TELESCOPE 

Figure 586 shows a home-made marine telescope in use. 
Figs. 587 to 589 show details of its construction. You will 
note that it consists of a long box with glass in one end and 
handles on the other end. The glass-enclosed end is lowered 
into the water, and observations are made through the open 
* end. 

The Glass End. A 5“by-7 camera plate will do nicely 

for glass. You can get a discarded plate at a photographer’s, 

376 























A MARINE TELESCOPE 


377 


use a glass from a small picture-frame, or buy a piece at a 
paint store. 



Fig. 586. —Viewing Under-Water Life with a Marine Telescope. 

The size of the glass will determine the width and thick¬ 
ness of 

The Box. One-eighth inch clearance all around should be 









37S 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


allowed for putty. Forty inches is a good length (Fig. 588). 

Assemble the box as shown in Fig. 589. That it may be 
water-tight which is important, coat the edges of the side 
boards with white lead before nailing. 


Fig. 589. Fig. 587. 



Fig. 588, 

Fig. 587.—The Completed Marine Telescope^ 

Fig. 588.—Longitudinal Section of Box. 

Fig. 589.—The Assembled Box. 

Wooden strips hold the glass in the enclosed end of the 
box, as shown in Fig. 588. First, tack the inner set of strips 
to the box edges, then run in putty around these strips, set 
the glass in the putty, and tack the outer strips in place. 


















































A MARINE TELESCOPE 


379 


Handles. Figure 587 shows how to screw or nail a pair of 
handles to the open end of the box; also, how 
To Counterbalance the Buoyancy of the air inside the box 
when the telescope is being lowered into the water, by bind¬ 
ing bricks to the box sides with wire. 

Paint the Box two coats of paint before attaching the 
weights. 

PANORAMIC VIEWS 

The marine telescope furnishes a view of a limited area, 
but by having your boat rowed while you peep, you will get 
a panoramic view similar to those shown in moving-pictures. 



Years ago when we boys designed and built an ice-yacht to 
sail upon one of the city-park ponds, permission to launch it 
was refused, which threw the monkey-wrench into the gear¬ 
box, so to speak, and the craft was scrapped. Two years 
previous to the time of this writing, however, the Chicago 
‘West Park Board’s Bureau of Recreation, under the leader¬ 
ship of Superintendent William J. H. Schultz, took up the 
sport of ice-yachting in earnest, held an ice-boat race in 
which were entered twoscore yachts of various shapes and 
sizes, representing the craftsmanship of boys and play¬ 
ground directors, and the success of the affair resulted in the 
establishment of the sport as one of the winter’s big events. 
A photograph of a group of these yachts is shown in Fig. 590. 

The winning yacht of last season’s races, designed and 
built by Director George Smith of Franklin Park play¬ 
grounds, and piloted by one of his boys, contained so many 
excellent features requiring easily procured materials, that 
I obtained permission to present the plans in this chapter 
that you might build a speed-boat of your own similar to 
the original, of which a photograph is shown in Fig. 591. 

THE MATERIAL 

The frame of the ice-yacht in the photograph is of 2-by-4S 

and 2-by-2S, the mast is of iron pipe, the boom and gaff are 

380 



































Fig. 590. —Home-Made Ice-Yachts on the fine Awaiting the 

Starter’s Signal. 


Fig. 591.—Winning Yacht of Franklin Park Playground, Chicago. 















AN ICE-YACHT 


381 


rug-poles, the sail is of cotton duck, the rigging is of sash- 
cord, and the runners are ice-skates. You can get all these, 
I know, or find substitutes, such, for instance, as old sheets 
in place of cotton duck, tent-poles, clothes-poles, and garden- 
tool handles for spars, clothesline for rigging. 

A plan of the frame is shown in Fig. 592. First, cut reach 
A and runner beam B out of 2-by-4S, and fasten the former 
to the latter, at the center, at right angles, with the bow pro¬ 
jecting 12 inches. Then cut diagonal braces C out of 2-by-2s, 
trim the ends to fit squarely against the sides of members A 
and B, and bolt in place. 

Runner-Blocks D support the skate runners. There are 
five blocks, one at the center of runner beam B, one at each 
end (Fig. 591), and a pair at the stern (Fig. 592). Cut the 
runner-blocks out of 2-by-4, 12 inches long. Bolt or screw 
Skate Runners to the blocks. It is not supposed that you 
own three pairs of ice-skates from which to select five run¬ 
ners. But, no doubt, you will have more than enough offers 
of skates in exchange for rides, if you let friends know your 
needs and agree to return the skates when wanted for 
skating. 

Before mounting the skate runners, bolt runner-blocks D 
to the frame. The center forward block is fastened with the 
bolts that fasten 

The Mast Socket Plates in position. The mast socket is 
made of a pair of ^-inch-pipe floor flanges (Fig. 602) one 
placed on top of reach A (Fig. 596), the other set into the 
under side of block D (Fig. 595), and the two fastened with 
four bolts run through reach runner beam B and block Z). 

The Rear Runner-Blocks are bolted to the ends of rudder 


382 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 



Fig. 592. —Plan of Frame for Ice-Yacht Shown in Fig. 591. 


beam E, a piece of 2-by-4 24 inches long (Figs. 592 and 597), 
and the beam is pivoted to the stern of reach A with a 
K-inch king-bolt (Fig. 598) passed through reach A, through 












































































AN ICE-YACHT 383 

two 6-inch iron plates, one screwed to reach A, the other to 
beam £, then through beam E and secured with a nut. 



Fig. 594. Fig. 597. 

Figs. 593 and 594.—Details of Runner Blocks. 

Figs. 595 and-596.—Details of Mast Socket Plates. 

Figs. 597 and 598.—Details of Rudder Beam, Runner Blocks, and Pivot. 

The Steering Gear is completed by bolting footbar F, a 
piece of 2-by-2 24 inches long, to the under side of reach A, 
at the point indicated in Fig. 592, then screwing a pair of 




















































































































3^4 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSYIEN 


screw-eyes into it near the ends, and another pair into runner 
blocks Dj and connecting the screw-eyes with ropes. With 
this rig, the pilot is enabled to steer the craft with his feet. 
Cross bar G, 12 inches back of F (Fig. 592), is a stationary 
footbar for a passenger seated back of the pilot. 

Make the Seat {H, Fig. 592) out of a 12-inch board 25 
inches in length, fasten a center batten and two end battens 
to the under side to strengthen it and bolt it to the reach. 
Better than the board seat is a piece of 12-inch plank, if you 
can get it. 

THE SPARS, SAIL AND RIGGING 
The Mast is a piece of ^-inch iron pipe 11 feet long. Get 
this from a plumber, and have him thread one end for a 
pipe fitting (Fig. 599), the other end a distance of 6 inches to 
screw into the socket formed by the pair of floor flanges 
bolted to the frame (Figs. 599 and 602). In addition to the 
fitting for the mast-head, get a short, nipple and drill it 
for a ring-bolt. This screws into the (Fig. 599) and the 
ring bolt supports a clothesline pulley through which the 
halyard or rope for hoisting the sail is run. A second pulley 
and ring-bolt are bolted through the floor flanges, as shown 
in Fig. 602, to run the halyard through, and a cleat is 
provided to hitch the halyard to. 

Wire stays may be run from the mast head to the ends of 
runner beam B, and to the end of reach A, though this is not 
necessary for a pipe mast secured as shown. 

The Boom and Gaff are shown in detail in Fig. 599. The 
mast end of each must be provided with a loop to slip over 
the mast, bent out of a metal strip and lashed in place as 
shown in Fig. 600. 


J 



Fig. 599.—Details of Spars, Sail and Rigging. 

Fig. 600. —Detail of Loop for Mast End of Boom and Gaff. 
Fig. 601. —Mast Ring. 

Fig. 602.—Detail of Mast Socket Plates and Halyard Pulley. 

385 










































































386 • OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

The Sail should be made of 8- or lo-oz. cotton duck. 
Figure 599 shows its dimensions. The seams must be lapped 
and sewed firmly, and the outer edges hemmed. Grommets, 
large brass eyelets, should be set in the upper edge, or head, 
the edge lying along the mast, or luff, and the lower edge or 
foot, through which to run rope for lashing the sail to the 
boom and gaff (Fig. 599), and for mast rings. You can 
have the grommets put on at a harness shop. As a substi¬ 
tute for grommets you can sew small iron rings to the edges 
of the sail cloth. Through the seam of the fourth edge of 
the sail, or leach, run rope for reinforcement. 

For Mast Rings purchase 2-inch key-rings and slip them 
through the grommets along the luff of the sail, as shown in 
Fig. 601. 

Attach The Halyard to the gaff at two points, as shown. 
Attach 

The Sheet for trimming the sail to the wind near the end of 
the boom, and run it through a pulley at the stern of the 
frame. 

The Installation of a Brake is a detail you can work out 
yourself. Most boys omit it, lowering the sail when they 
wish to slow up. 


FINISHING 

Paint the frame and spars two coats of good outside paint 
to make the yacht shipshape. Automobile enamel is excel¬ 
lent for the purpose. 

Mount a Flag at the mast-head. Slip the flagstaff into 
the T-pipe fitting, which will make a good socket. 


AN ICE-YACHT 


387 


If you have any artistic ability, try your hand at 
Decorating the Sail. Sketches of popular cartoon charac¬ 
ters and moving picture stars graced the sails of craft entered 
in last winter’s races in Chicago parks, and the bedlam created 
by the rooting of spectators for their favorites was not incon¬ 
sistent with the exciting spectacle of two score home-made 
yachts with white sails gleaming as they skimmed across the 
pond’s surface with the speed of airplanes. 


CHAPTER XLII 
SKATE-SAILS AND SKIIS 

Americans are becoming more of an outdoor people, and 
instead of retreating from winter^s icy blasts into warm, 
airtight homes, as formerly, the entire family put on extra 
clothing and go forth to participate in sport once conceded 
the exclusive right of boys and others lacking sense enough 
to remain indoors. The changed condition is fine for you 
fellows, since it has given mother and father a better under¬ 
standing of why you seek the skating pond, the coasting hill 
and the skiing slide, and gains for you the permission to go 
that was once refused or granted grudgingly. And with 
father joining in the fun, and the automobile pressed into 
service, you are enabled to skate on larger ponds, to coast on 
steeper hills, indeed to seek the choicest locations for each 
sport. Truly you are fortunate to live your boyhood in this 
age of motor-vehicles. In the pre-auto days we had to make 
a skating-pond, if no body of water happened to be within 
hiking distance, or to build a toboggan-slide if we lived in 
flat country, or do without skating and coasting. 

This awakening of adult interest in winter sports has also 
brought about community organization for the promotion 
of activities; golf clubs have become country clubs open the 
year round, and summer resorts are entertaining winter 
patronage that formerly sought southern climes. And 

388 



























SKATE-SAILS AND SKIIS 


389 


directly or indirectly some of these changes must affect you. 
In the preceding chapter, I told you how to build a dandy 
ice-yacht, in Chapter XIX I gave you plans for a coaster and 
a single runner, and on the remaining pages of this chapter you 
will find ideas for skate-sails and skiis. Of course, this ma¬ 
terial doesn’t begin to cover the equipment used for winter 
sports, but it is all there is room for. You may supplement 
it with ideas presented in my other handicraft books, and 
those published in my magazine articles, which will be 
brought together later in a succeeding volume. 

SKATE-SAILS AND SKATE-SAILING 

Skate-sailing is one of the most exciting of winter sports, 
and you can become expert as soon as you learn to handle the 
sail in the proper way. The angle at which you hold the 
sail must be adjusted for each change in the direction of sail¬ 
ing, which you will understand if you have had any experi¬ 
ence in boat or canoe sailing. 

You hold the sail between your body and the wind, at your 
back or to one side, according to the direction of sailing and 
the direction of the wind, and you preserve your balance by 
throwing your weight against the sail. To change the posi¬ 
tion of the sail in tacking against the wind, you swing dead 
into the wind, which frees the sail from your body, then 
quickly lift the sail, flat, above your head, and lower it on 
the proper side to carry you upon the opposite tack. When 
sailing before the wind, you hold the sail squarely behind 
you so that the wind pressure is equal on all portions. To 
stop up, you swing about facing the wind and lift the sail, 
flat, above your head. 


390 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


As the sail is not attached to the body, you can let go of it 
to avoid a collision with another skate-sailor or a hole in the 
ice. 

A SKATE-SAIL WITH A ‘^T’’ FRAME 

Sails that fold are of the most convenient form for carry¬ 
ing and for storing. The lad in Fig. 603 is equipped with 
such a sail with a frame. Figure 604 is a diagram of 
the sail. You can make 

The Spars or frame poles of whatever length you wish, or 
to suit the material at hand. The horizontal spar of the sail 
illustrated is 9 feet long, and the vertical spar is 6 feet long. 
These make a medium-sized sail that is about right for a 
boy 4 feet 6 inches or so in height. Bamboo is best for the 
spars because of its extreme lightness, and old bamboo 
fishing-poles can be used if you have them; otherwise, use 
i-by-2 strips known as furring-strips. 

Figure 605 shows how to join the end of the horizontal 
spar to the vertical spar with screw-eyes and a small bolt. 
Screw a screw-eye into an end of the horizontal spar and 
another into the exact center of the length of the vertical 
spar, and use a short stove-bolt with which to bolt the two 
together. Place a washer next the bolt head and another next 
the nut, unless the screw-eyes are very small, to keep the head 
and nut from pulling through. Screw a screw-eye into each 
end of the vertical spar to attach the corners of the sail to. 

The Sail may be made of any closely woven cloth, but 
lightweight canvas is to be preferred if you can get it. Lack¬ 
ing something better, an old sheet may be used. Cut the 
. cloth so that the selvedge extends along one edge, and make 
a wide hem on the cut edges so that they will not ravel. 




Fig. 603.—The Position for Holding the Sail Depends Upon the Direction 

of the Wind. 


391 




























392 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Also, reinforce the three corners with an extra thickness of 
the cloth, as indicated by dotted lines in Figs. 604 and 606. 

The edge that comes along the vertical spar may be tacked 
to it, but it makes a more shipshape job to provide the sail 
with tapes or metal grommets^ so it may be lashed to the 

Fig. 605. 



Fig. 604. —Diagram of Skate-Sail with “T” Frame.. 

Fig. 605.—How to Join the Spars.' 

Fig. 606. ^How to Attach the Corner of the Sail to the Horizontal Spar. 


spar. Dressmakers’ hooks-and-eyes and snaps have been 
found satisfactory substitutes and they are cheaper and 
more easily attached than grommets. 

Sew a belt buckle, strap buckle, or vest buckle to the cor¬ 
ner of the sail that lies along the horizontal spar, and tack a 
















SKATE-SAILS AND SKIIS 


393 


piece of strap with holes punched through it to the free end 
of the spar, with which to pull the sail taut and buckle it in 
position. 

A SKATE-SAIL WITH AN INVERTED ‘‘a’’ FRAME 

The skate-sail with a frame made in the form of an inverted 
letter A, shown in Fig. 607 is an excellent folding model. 
Figure 608 shows the frame folded, with the sail detached, 
and Fig. 609 shows the frame extended. 

The Frame is best made of square spars because of the 
hinge connections. Use i-by-2 strips. Notice by Fig. 609 
that spars A and B are hinged together with the end of A 
overlapping the end of B. You can screw the hinge to the 
spars directly, but it is better to cut a triangular block to 
fasten one flap of the hinge to, and nail this to one spar (Z), 
Fig. 610). The block provides clearance for spreader C be¬ 
tween the side spars when the frame is folded (Fig. 608). 
With spars 9 feet long, the spread at the open end should be 
about 6 feet 6 inches. You will have to lay the poles upon 
the floor in their proper position to determine the dimen¬ 
sions for block D. 

Spreader C (Figs. 607 and 609) keeps the frame rigid and 
the sail taut. Fasten it midway between the ends of spars 
A and B, or thereabout. Hinge one end to one spar, and 
nail a metal plate with a hole punched through it to the 
other end, as shown in Fig. 611. Make the plate project 
beyond the end of the spreader so it will overlap the spar, 
and bore a hole through the spar to receive a nail or stove bolt 
with which to pin the spreader plate in position. 

Make the sail and fasten it to the spars in the manner 


394 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 




Fig. 607. Fig. 61 i. Fig. 609. 

Fig. 607.—Skate-Sail with Inverted “A” Frame. 

Fig. 608.—Frame Folded. 

Fig. 609.—Frame Extended. 

Figs. 610 and 611.—Details of Hinge and Pin Connections. 

described for the other sail. Screw screw-eyes into the spar 
ends to tie the sail corners to. 



















SKATE-SAILS AND SKIIS 


395 


A SQUARE SKATE-SAIL 

The square sail with which the lad in Fig. 612 is sailing be¬ 
fore the wind is a popular model and simpler to make than 
the models just described. Figure 613 shows a diagram of 
the sail set up. 



Fig. 612. —Sailing before the Wind with a Square Skate-Sail. 

The Spars are three in number, two vertical strips {A, 
Fig. 614) and a spreader {B). Drive a nail part way into 
the end of each. 









































30 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Fig. 6i6. Fig. 613. Fig. 614. 



Fig. 615. 

Fig. 613.—Diagram of Square Sail Set Up. 

Fig. 614.—Detail of Spars. 

Figs. 615 and 616.—Spreader and Sail Dismantled. 

The Sail. Get a piece of unbleached muslin or light 
weight canvas 42 inches wide and 2 yards long for the sail 
cloth, and tack its long edges to the vertical spars. Then 










































Fig. 618 .— Barrel Stave Skis Afford Barrels of Fun. 



'^^^^Undenoood & Underwood. ” 

Fig. 617 .—a Fleet of Skate Sails. 




i 


'*WI! 



iSt .u(A 



'd 






SKATE-SAILS AND SKIIS 


397 


sew a pair of cloth straps at the center of the length of the 
cloth, as shown in Fig. 613, through which to slip spreader^. 

Attach heavy cord to the nails in the ends of spreader 
as shown in Fig. 615, with which to stay the sail when you 
set it up. Run the cords to the nails in the ends of spars A, 
and tie. Pull the cords tight enough to bow spars A 
slightly. To complete the rigging, attach tapes to the cen¬ 
ter of the length of vertical spars T, as shown in Fig. 616, 
and screw a pair of screw-eyes into spreader spar B (Fig. 
615) to tie them to. 

After you have made these simpler types of skate-sails, 
you may become ambitious to build a larger model. .The 
photograph of Fig. 617 shows a fleet of skate-sails, nine of 
one design and three of another. With the preceding in- 
tructions in mind, you should have no difficulty in working 
out details for these models. 

BARREL-STAVE SKIIS 

Of course you want a pair of skiis even though they be of 
the crude form of barrel staves, such as the lads in the photo¬ 
graph of Fig. 618 are equipped with. I have seen a dozen 
boys having the best of fun with skiis made of sugar-barrel 
staves, and would suggest that you try out a pair, inasmuch 
as the material will cost nothing and the making will require 
but a few minutes^ time. True, a stave is rather short for a 
ski, hut it is plenty wide, has a good curve, and serves well on 
small hills. 

All the stave needs to convert it into a ski is a toe-strap. A 
short school-strap may be screwed to the stave for this, or, 
instead, you may try the idea of Director George Smith of 


398 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Franklin Park, Chicago, which is to cut away the heel from 
a slipper and screw the sole to the stave. This rig works 
well and looks fine. The barrel-stave skiis will be improved 
by smoothing the under side with sandpaper, then rubbing 
with boiled linseed oil, and waxing with floor-wax. 

GROOVe |“WIPC- ANI7 

- - 

-e'-o"-’-H 


Fig. 6ig. 



Fig. 621. 

Fig. 619.—Plan of Ski of Standard Proportions. 

Fig. 620. —Side View of Ski of ^-inch Stock. 

Fig. 621. —Side View of Ski of i %-inch Stock. 

SKIIS OF STANDARD DESIGN 

After having had an introduction to the sport of skiing, 
you will want to give away your barrel-stave skiis and make 
a pair of standard design. The work is easier than you may 
suppose, and the material inexpensive. 

The Length. Figure 619 shows a plan of a ski of the right 
length for a lad 5 feet 6 inches or so in height. Six feet is a 
better length for lads 5 feet or shorter. Figures 620 and 621 
are side views, the first showing a ski of ^-inch material, the 
second one of stock i^-inches thick. The former is the 




































SKATE-SAILS AND S KIT S 


399 


/ 

easier to make, but the latter with its arched center has the 
advantage of great stoutness. 

The Best Material to use is hickory or ash, and it is 
probable that you can obtain one or the other at a local 
lumber-yard. 

Considering first, the making of 
Skiis of Three-Quarter-Inch Stock, lay off the width and 
length dimensions upon the board, after you have decided 
on the length, and on the edges mark off the tapering of the 
upper surface from ^-inch thick at the center to ^-inch thick 
at the heel and toe. Notice that the tapering at the toe extends 
a distance of 24 inches, that at the heel 30 inches. Shorten 
the distances proportionately for a 6-foot ski for a short lad. 

Shape the Skiis with a plane or draw-knife. When you 
have tapered the ends, mark off a groove ^-inch wide along 
the sole of the ski, from the heel to a point 24 inches from the 
toe, and cut the groove with a ^-inch chisel to a depth of yi 
inch (Fig. 619). The groove is to prevent side slip, that the 
ski may track in a straight line. Be careful to cut the 
groove straight. After cutting, smooth with sandpaper. 

To Curve the Toe End of the ski, soak it in a tub or wash- 
boiler of hot water to make the wood pliable, then bend up 
the end until it has a spring of 6 inches, and fasten it so it will 
retain the curve until the wood has dried. A good way to 
bend and hold the ski is to bind the strip to a plank, and then 
block up under the toe end until the correct curve has been 
obtained. The curve will flatten somewhat when you re¬ 
move the ski from the plank, but this should not exceed i 
inch. If it does, you must resoak the strip and repeat the 
process of bending. 


400 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


Figure 622 shows the attachment of 
Toe Straps. Makers of skiis notch the upper surface to ad¬ 
mit the strap, but unless the ski’s thickness at this point is 
inches or so it is not advisable to cut it away. Instead, 
make a wooden plate of about the length of your shoe, 
notch the under side to receive the toe-straps and screw the 
plate to the ski (Figs. 620 and 622). 



Fig. 622.—Attach Toe-Straps Like This. 


There is more to the shaping of 
Skiis of Thicker Material, i^-inch stock (Fig. 621). Draw 
the outlines upon the edges of the hickory or ash strip as 
shown, cut away what you can with a rip saw, then finish up 
with a draw-knife and plane, and smooth with sandpaper. 
Attach the toe-straps in the way described for the skiis of 
thinner stock. 

Finish Your Skiis with boiled linseed oil, applying this to 
all surfaces. Then rub the sole with wax, and varnish the 
edges and upper surfaces with spar varnish. 


SKATE-SAILS AND SKIIS 


401 


A SKIING-STAFF 

Bamboo is the best material for a skiing-staff because of 
its light weight, and if you can get a piece of bamboo fishing 
pole 1% inches in diameter 5 feet long it is just what you 
want. Lacking bamboo, look for a pole of hickory or ash. 
A Boy Scout’s staff will do nicely. 

Fig. 623. 



Fig. 624. Fig. 626. P’ig. 627. Fig. 625. 

Fig. 623.—Skiing-Staff with Metal Spur. 

Figs. 624-627.—Details of Spur End of Staff. 


Figure 623 shows a completed skiing-staff. Note that the 
end is fitted with a metal spur for digging into ice, that 
above the spur there is a metal disk to keep the spur from 
sinking too deeply into snow, and that at the handle end 
there is a loop through which to slip your wrist. 

Figure 624 shows a detail of 

The Spur End of the Staff. Cut the disk B out of galvanized 
iron (Fig. 625), cut a center hole through which to slip the 
staff, and a pair of small holes each side of it through which 
to drive rivets for riveting iron brackets (C, Fig. 624) to the 






















402 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


disk. The brackets must be placed so one leg of each will 
lie along the pole, as shown. Use a 20-penny spike for the 
spur {D). To fasten the spike in the staff hole, file away 
opposite sides of its head (Fig. 626), prepare a small metal 
clip similar to E (Fig. 626), to slip over the spike, also a 
wooden plug (F) to slip over the end. To assemble, slip the 
spike D through clip E and the two into the hole in the pole 
end. Fasten with a stove bolt (G) run through brackets C, 
the staff and clip E. Drive plug F into the end of the staff, 
and wind the staff end with wire to keep it from splitting. 

Paint the Staff and metal parts, and make the end wrist- 
strap of a leather shoestring. 



Winter fishing is fine sport for you red-blooded fellows 
who do not mind the cold. It requires cutting holes in the ice 
through which to drop your lines, ice which may be anything 
from 4 to 24 inches thick, according to the weather, and to 
meet with success you must be a patient fisherman. But 
you do not have to sit quietly awaiting a bite, for surface 
noise does not frighten away the fish. You can skate or do 
anything you please while waiting for a dandy pickerel or 
other fish to connect with your hook, provided you set a 
signal that will inform you the instant that a fish starts off 
with the hook. 

FISHING-SIGNALS 

The fishing-signal shown ^^set’’ in Fig. 628 and signalling 
‘^line is busy” in Fig. 629 is the best device for ice fishing, and 
is a rig so quickly made that you can have half a dozen of 
them as well as not. Of course, you must be guided in your 
ice fishing operations by your state fishing laws. Some States 
put a limitation on the number of lines a fisherman may set, 
some place a size-limit upon fish to be taken, others allow 
the taking of pickerel only. You can easily inform yourself 
on these points by inquiring at a sporting-goods store. 

The Tip-Up Device shown in the diagrams consists of a 

piece of broom-handle 24 inches long (Fig. 628), a strip of the 

403 






























404 OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 

same length by 3 inches wide (Fig. 628), and a piece of red 
flannel or other cloth. Taper one end of the strip as shown, 
and bore a i-inch hole 5 inches from the other end through 
which to run the broom-handle. Wax the hole and the 
broom-handle so the stick will turn readily on the handle. 

Cut a pennant-shaped flag of the red cloth and tack it to 
the tapered end of the flag stick, and drive a screw-eye into 
the opposite end of the stick to attach the fishing-line to 
(Fig. 628). 



The Line should be a strong braided fishing-line. The 
length will depend upon the depth of the water at the point 
at which the hole is cut. For determining the depth, tie a 
stone to the end of the line and lower it through the fishing- 
hole. When the depth is known, suspend the line so that 
the hook hangs about 24 inches off the bottom. 

* CUTTING THE FISHING-HOLE 

An Ice-Cutter. A hand-axe, pickaxe or ice-chisel may be 
used for cutting fishing-holes. If mother owns an ice-shaver. 




















WINTER FISHING 


405 


you might borrow it, mount it upon a broom-handle or 
handle from a broken garden implement, which will give 
you a serviceable cutting tool. Drill a hole through the 
handle, run a leather shoestring through the hole, and tie 
the ends to form a loop. 



Keep your wrist in the handle loop while you are using 
the ice-cutter; it will guard against accidentally losing the 
chisel while cutting holes. Make the fishing-hole only large 
enough to accommodate the tip-up signalling device. 

Unprotected Ice-Holes are dangerous, and I don’t believe 
that any of you would be so careless as to leave one when 













































4o6 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


your day’s fishing is done. Bearing in mind that some one 
else may pass that way after dark, either cover the hole 
with boards, or erect a substantial barricade. 


A SHELTER 

A shelter tent mounted upon a platform as shown in Fig. 
630, gives excellent protection for winter fishing, for winter 



Fig. 630. —Winter Shelter for Fishing, Camping, or Skating. 

camping and skating. As it is equipped with runners, you 
can pull it over the snow and ice, and you can load it with 
blankets and provisions instead of packing these upon your 
back. 

The secret of keeping warm while winter-camping is in 
having plenty of clothing and keeping a hre going outside 
the tent. The shelter tent is well adapted to the purpose. 
Turn it with its open front to the fire, and build a reflector of 





WINTER FISHING 


407 


green logs back of the fire to throw the heat into the tent. 
Of course, if there are three of you camping, and you are 
strong for comfort, the way to do is to commission the other 
fellows to tend the fire during the night, that you may not be 
disturbed. Tent floors are colder to sleep on than bare 
ground, if open beneath. Pack the spaces between with snow 
or leaves so air cannot enter. 



Fig. 631.—The Tent Platform. 


Build the Tent Platform as shown in Fig. 631, with three 
runners boarded over with any boards you have at hand. As 
there is variance in the size of tents, I am not giving dimen¬ 
sions for the platform. Set up your tent and take your 
measurements from it. Make the width of the platform 
such that the tent can be brought down over the sides as 
shown. To support the edges of boards forming the wedge- 
shaped end of the platform, nail strips to them as shown in 
Fig. 631. 

Cut the Tent Poles 2 inches longer than the distance be- 






4o8 


OUTDOOR BOY CRAFTSMEN 


tween the platform and tent ridge, so their ends can be 
driven into holes bored in the platform. Drive a nail into 
the end of the poles to loop the tent ridge eyelets over. 

It is probably unnecessary to warn you to rig up 
An End Gate to keep equipment that you take on your win¬ 
ter hike from being bumped off and lost along the way. 


INDEX 


A 

“A” Frame Skate Sail, An 393; the 
Frame, 393 

Aerial, A Camp, 207; Tree, 207; a Trek 
Cart, 208; a Car, 208; a Loop, 208; 
a Water Craft, 208; a Dragging Wire, 
209 

Aerial Battle, A Kite, 141 
Aerial Mast, A Kite Radio, 100; to Rig 
Up, 100; to Carry, 102 
Air Rifle Target and BB Trap, An, 33; 
the Target, 33; the Framework, 33; 
the Canvas Curtain, 35; the Trap, 
.36; Suspending the Target, 36; a 
Standard Target Sheet, 36; a Back¬ 
stop, 36 

Air-Tank, A Diving-Raft, 32 
Anchor, 310, 320, 325 
Apartment House, A Martin, 73 
Arrester, A Camp Radio Lightning, 210 
Auto Aerial, 208 

Automobile Camping, 177; the Outfit, 
178; the Motor Camping Caravan, 
179; the Motor Pullman, 179; a 
Home-MadePullman,i79;TheTrailer, 
180; a Home-Made Trailer, 180; 
Objections to Trailers not Substan¬ 
tiated, 181; Car Beds, 181; One Type 
of Car Bed, 182; Another Type, 182; 
a Home-Made Bed, 182; Another 
Scheme, 184; Camp Cots, 185; a 
Pneumatic Camp Mattress, 185; 
Bedding, 186; Tents, 186; Wall Tent, 
186; Tent Poles, 187; Folding Tent 
Poles, 188; the Lean-to Tent, 189; the 
Umbrella Tent, 190; the Shelter Tent 
190; a Ground Cloth, 191; a Mosquito 


Netting Curtain, 191; Tent Bag, 191; 
Stoves, 191; the Two-Burner Gaso¬ 
line Stove, 192; a Camp Grate, 193; 
Food Supplies, 193; What to Have 
for Meals, 194; a Refrigerator, 194; 
a Fisherman’s Refrigerator, 194; 
Other Food Containers, 194; a 
Kitchen Cabinet, 195; a Home-Made 
Cabinet, 195; Utensils, 196; Clothing, 
197; Shoes, 197; Poncho, 197; Sundry 
Needs, 197; Camping Sundries, 197; 
Automobile Sundries, 198; Personal 
Sundries, 198; Packing the Outfit, 
198; a Running-Board Rack, 199; 
Duffle-Bags, 199; Running-Board 
Boxes, 199; a Home-Made Running- 
Board Box, 199; Making and Break¬ 
ing Camp, 201; Making Camp an 
Hour Before Sunset, 201; The Water 
Supply, 201; Obtaining Permission 
to Camp, 202; Tourist Camp Grounds 
202; Breaking Camp, 202. 

Awnings, Tent Cottage, 235 

Axles, Pushmobile, 3; Saihnobile, 28, 29 

B 

Back, Lazy-, A 309 
Backstop, Air Rifle Target, 36 
Backwoods Chair, 251 
Bag, Tent, 191; Duffle, 199 
Bags, Food, 266 

Bait Box, A Live-, 366; to Make a, 367; 
to Set Up a, 368 

Bank Oven, 285; the Fire-pot, 286; the 
Oven, 287; the Chimney, 287; the 
Doors, 290 

Barrel Stave Skiis, 397 



410 


INDEX 


Barrels for Air-Tanks, 321 

Bath, Concrete Bird, 60; Market for, 
60; to Cast, 61 

Batten-Door, Tree Hut, 230 

Battle, A Kite, 141 

BB Trap and Air Rifle Target {see Air 
Rifle Target) 

Bed, An Automobile, 181; One Type of, 
182; Another Type, 182; Home-Made, 
182; Another Scheme for, 184; a 
Bough, 242 

Bedding, Camp, 186 

Bench, A Rustic, 257; a Double, 261; a 
Tree, 262 

Benches, A Table With, 253 

Bicycle Parcel-Carrier, A, 112; a Home- 
Made, 112; to Make the, 113; Paint¬ 
ing, 115 

Bicycle Road Map, A, 115; Mounting a, 
on Muslin, 115 

Bicycle Trailer, A Coaster, a Hand Car 
or a, 24; Parts, 25; Wheels, 26; Push 
Blocks or Sticks, 26. 

Bird Bath, A Concrete, 60; Market for, 
60; to Cast, 61. 

Bird Homes, 63; Wren Houses and 
Bluebird Houses, 63; Building Speci¬ 
fications, 64; Height to Place, 64; 
Paint or Stain, 64; a Wren Bungalow, 
64; the Entrance Hole, 66; Provision 
for Cleaning, 66; Hangers, 66; a 
Bluebird Bungalow, 66; Hanging the 
House, 67; a Wren Turret, 67; the 
Materials, 67; the Construction, 69; 
Doorways, 69; Perches, 69; Parti¬ 
tions, 69; Ceiling, 69; Roof, 70; 
Shingles, 70; Priming Coat of Paint, 
70; Second Coat, 70; Roof Peak and 
Hangers, 70; Assembling, 71; Spring 
House-Cleaning, 71; Hanging the 
Turret, 71; a Bluebird Round House, 
71; Construction, 71; Doorway, 71; 


Tin Basin Roof, 72; Perch, 73; Floor, 
73; Support, 73; Painting, 73; a 
IVIartin Apartment House, 73; At¬ 
tracting Martins, 74; Keeping Out 
English Sparrows, 74 
Birds, in Winter, Feeding, 159; a 
Census of Winter Guests, 159; Stock¬ 
ing the Feeding Stations, 160; Winter 
Food, 160; a Suet Station, 161; the 
Parts, 162; the Wire Front, 162; a 
Suet and Seed Station, 162; the 
Parts, 162; the Suet Cup, 165; a 
Bird’s Cafeteria, 165; a Grocery Box 
for, 165; Hangers, 166; the Suet Rack, 
166; a Perch, 167; the Seed Hopper, 
167; a Trolley, 167; Finishing Feeding 
Stations, 167; Building Feeding Sta¬ 
tions to Sell, 168 

Blanket Roll, the Way to Make a, 103 
Block House, Snow, 90; the Window, 
90; the Doorway, 90; the Roof, 90 
Blocks, Ice-Yacht Runner, 381 
Blow Bag, 185 

Bluebird Bungalow, 66; Hanging the 
House, 67 

Bluebird Houses, 63; Building Specifica¬ 
tions, 64; Height to Place, 64; Paint 
or Stain, 64 

Boat, A Flat-Bottomed, 301; the Build¬ 
ing Material, 302; Cutting the Parts, 
304; the Stem-Piece, 304; the Stern- 
Piece, 304; the Center Mold, 304; the 
Side, 304; the Sides, 304; Assembling, 
304; the Bottom Boards, 306; the 
Upper Side Boards, 306; to Complete 
the Outside, 306; the Keel, 306; Calk¬ 
ing, 307; the Seats, 307; Oar Lockets 
and Oars, 307; Oars, 307; Painting, 
308; Lettering the Name, 308; Refine¬ 
ments in Boat Building, 308; a Lazy- 
Back, 309; Finishing, 310; an Anchor, 
310 



INDEX 


Bodies, Pushmobile, 4, 13, ig 
Boom, A Sailmobile, 30; a Lateen Sail, 
294; an Ice-Yacht, 384 
Bough Bed, 242 

Bow, Houseboat, 318; a Water 
Scooter, 335 

Bow Kite, A, 143; the Sticks, 144; the 
Covering, 144; the Bridle, 144; How 
to Make It Perform Erratically, 145 
Box, A Live-Bait, 366; t9 Make a, 367; 
to Set Up a, 368 

Box, A Running-Board, 199; a Home- 
Made, 199 
Box Chair, 252 

Box Kite, A, 149; if You Bungle Your 
Work, 150; the Side Frames, 150; the 
Diagonal Struts, 152; the Cell Cover- 
■ ing, 152; Assembling, 152; the Bridle, 
153; How to Launch a, 153; if Your 
Kite Doesn’t Fly, 153 
Brake, An Ice-Yacht, 386 
Bridle, Methods of Attaching a Kite, 
136; A Malay Kite, 144; a Conyne 
Kite, 149; a Box Kite, 153 
Broom, A Camp, 277 
Bucket, A Minnow, 369; a Floating 
Minnow, 370 
Bumper, A Pushmobile, 5 
Bungalow, A Wren, 64; the Entrance 
Hole, 66; Provision for Cleaning, 66; 
Hangers, 66; a Bluebird, 66; Hanging 
the House, 67 

Buoyancy, To Counterbalance, 379 

C 

Cabin, A Houseboat, 320; the Floor of 
the, 319 

Cabinet, An Auto Kitchen, 195; a Home- 
Made, 195 

Cabinet, A Specimen, 123 

Cable, A Pushmobile Steering, 4, 15, 18 

Cafeteria, A Bird’s, 165; a Grocery Box 


411 

for a, 165; Hangers, 166; the Suet 
Rack, 166; the Perch, 167; the Seed 
Hopper, 167; a Trolley, 167 
Cage, An Observation, 121 
Calking, 307 

Camera, Making Sterescopic Pictures 
With Your, 128; Exposures, 128; 
Transposing the Prints, 129; Making 
the Gauge Board, 131; a Tripod, 131 
Camp Broom, 277 
Camp Cots, 185 

Camp Cots, Chairs and Tables, 244; a 
Camp Cot, 244; a Folding Cot, 246; 
Cutting the Parts, 246; Assembling, 
247; the Canvas Covering, 248; a 
Camp Chair, 248; the Parts, 249; 
Assembling, 250; the Seat Covering, 
250; a Chair Back, 250; a Backwood’s 
Chair, 251; a Box Chair, 252; a Camp 
Table, 252; a Table with a Shelf, 253; 
a Table With Benches Combined, 
253; the Material, 254; the End 
Frames, 255; the Rails, 255; the Top, 
256; the Seat Planks, 256; Finishing, 
256 

Camp Fireplaces, Stoves and Ovens, 
278; Starting a Cooking Fire, 278; 
Forest Fires and Their Prevention 
279; a Fire-Pit, 280; Fire-Logs, 281; 
a Crane, 281; a Lug-Pole, 281; Pot- 
Hooks, 282; Legs for a Camp Stove, 
283; a Folding Camp Grate, 284; a 
Hinged Camp Grate, 285; a Bank 
Oven, 285; the Fire-Pot, 286; the 
Oven, 287; the Chimney, 287; the 
Doors, 290 

Camp Furnishings, 265; Food-Bags 
266; a Meat-Safe, 267; a Refrigerator, 
267; a Chest and Cupboard, 271; the 
Chest, 271; the Cupboard, 271; a 
Dresser, 272; a Wash-Stand, 274; 
a Candle Lantern, 274; a Hat-Tree, 





412 


INDEX 


275; Clothes-Hangers, 276; Clothes- 
Pin Hangers, 276; a Match Container, 
227; a Camp Broom, 277; a Small 
Shovel, 277 

Camping, Motor, 177; the Outfit, 178; 
the Motor-Camping Caravan, 179; 
the Motor Pullman, 179; a Home- 
Made Pullman, 179; the Trailer, 180; 
a Home-Made Pullman, 179; the 
Trailer, 180; a Home-Made Trailer, 
180; Objections to Trailer not Sub¬ 
stantiated, • 181; Car Beds, 181; One 
Type of Car Bed, 182; Another Type, 
182; a Home-Made Bed, 182; Another 
Scheme, 184; Camp Cots, 185; a 
Pneumatic Camp Mattress, 185; 
Bedding, 186; Tents, 186; the Wall 
Tent, 186; Tent Poles, 187; Folding 
Tent Poles, 188; the Lean-to Tent, 
189; the Umbrella Tent, 190; the 
Shelter Tent, 190; a Ground Cloth, 
191; a Mosquito-Netting Curtain, 
191; a Tent Bag, 191; Stoves, 191; 
the Two-Burner Gasoline Stove, 192; 
a Camp Grate, 193; Food Supplies, 
193; What to Have for Meals, 194; 
a Refrigerator, 194; a Fisherman’s 
Refrigerator, 194; Other Food Con¬ 
tainers, 194; a Kitchen Cabinet, 195; 
a Home-Made Cabinet, 195; Utensils, 
196; Clothing, 197; Shoes, 197; 
Poncho, 197; Sundry Needs, 197; 
Camping Sundries, 197; Automobiles, 
Sundries, 198; Personal Sundries, 198; 
Packing the Outfit, 198; a Running- 
Board Rack, 199; Duffle Bags, 199; 
Running-Board Boxes, 199; a Home- 
Made Running-Board Box, 199; 
Making and Breaking Camp, 201; 
Making Camp an Hour Before Sun- 

. set, 201; the Water Supply, 201; 
Obtaining Permission to Camp, 202; 


Tourist Camp Grounds, 202; Break¬ 
ing Camp, 202 

Camp Outfit, An Automobile, 178; 
Packing the, 198 

Camp Rustic Furniture, 257; a Bench, 
257; Tree Seats, 261; a Double Seat, 
261; a Tree Bench, 262; a Rustic 
Wash-Stand, 262; a Cot, 263; a Hat- 
Tree, 264 
Camp Shovel, 277 
Candle Lantern, 274 
Canoe Sails and Lee-Boards, 291; a 
Lateen Sail, 291; the Sail, 291; the 
Spars, 293; the Mast, 294; the Boom 
and Yard, 294; the Halyard, 294; the 
Sheet, 295; Lee-boards, 295; the 
Stock, 297; Layout the Pieces, 297; 
Cutting, 297; the Cross Bar, 297; 
Assembling, 298; Finishing, 298; to 
Prevent Warping, 298; a Small 
Portable Sail, 298; the Sail, 298; the 
Sprit, 300; the Mast, 300; to Support 
the Mast, 300 

Canvas Covered Cot’tage, A, 231; the 
Design and Size, 231; the Material, 
232; the Framework, 232; the Cover¬ 
ing Material, 232; Building the 
Framework, 233; the Floor Platform, 
233; the Side Walls, 234; the Roof 
Rafters, 234; the. End Walls, 235; 
Boarding Up the Walls, 235; a Gate, 
235; the Canvas Covering, 235; Tack¬ 
ing the Canvas, 235; Awnings for the 
Openings, 235; the Doorway Cur¬ 
tains, 236; Painting, 236; Water¬ 
proofing, 236 

Car, A Home-Made Motor, 20 
Car, Aerial, 208 

Caravan, The Motor-Camping, 179 
Car Bed, A 181; One Type of, 182; 
Another Type of, 182; a Home-Made, 
182; Another Scheme for a, 184 



INDEX 


413 


Carrier, A Bicycle Parcel, 112; a Home- 
Made, 112; to Make the, 113; Paint¬ 
ing, 115 

Carr3dng-Receptacle, A Nature Study 
Collection, 122 

Cart, A Boy Scout Trek, 93; the Cost 
and Upkeep, 93; the Problem of 
Wheels, 94; Building the Cart, 94; 
the Axle, 94; the Tongue and Body 
Frame,95; the Running Gear, 95; the 
Box, 95; the Prairie Schooner Top, 
97; the Hoops, 97; the Cover, 98; 
Painting, 99; Other Uses for the Trek 
Cart, 100; a Mast for a Radio Aerial, 
100; to Rig Up the Mast, 100; to 
Carry the Mast Bar, 102. 

Case, A Portable Radio Set Carrying, 
a Suit-Case Carrying, 205 
Casting Concrete, 54, 55, 61 
Center Mold, 304 

Cells, A Conyne Kite Triangular, 149; 

a Box Kite, 152 
Census of Winter Birds, 159 
Cinders for Concrete Fish Pond, 53 
Circus, A Kite, 145 

Chair, A Camp, 248; the Parts, 249; 
Assembling, 250; the Seat Covering, 
250; the Chair Back, 250; a Back- 
wood’s Chair, 252; a Box, 252. 
Chassis, A Pushmobile, 3, 12, 15; a 
Sailmobile, 28 
Chest and Cupboard, 271 
Chimney, A Bank Oven, 287 
Chute, A Water, 341; Financing a 
Small, 341; the Material, 341; the 
Construction, 343; the Taking-Off 
Platform, 344; the Starting Platform, 
345; the Slide, 346; a Ladder, 346; 
Tracks, 346; the Coaster, 346; Roller- 
Skate Wheels, 348; Finishing, 348; a 
Coaster Railway, an Alternative 
Plan, 348. 


Clothespin Hangers, 276 
Clothing, Motor-Camping, 197 
Coaster, A Water Chute, 346; the Roller- 
Skate Wheels, 348 

Coaster and a Single Runner, 169; a 
Speedy Coaster, 169; the Runners, 
169; the Runner Shoes, 170; the 
Crosspieces, 170; the Seat, 171; the 
Sled Handles, 171; Finishing, 172; a 
Single Runner, 172 

Coaster or Hand Car or Bicycle Trailer, 
A, 24; Parts, 25; Wheels, 26; Push 
Blocks or Sticks, 26 
Coaster Railway, 348 
Collar Roll, A Hiking Horse, 220 
Collections, Nature Study, 116; a Hand 
Net, 116; the Hoop and Handle, 116; 
Sewing the Net, 116; a Moth Trap, 
117; the Lighted End, 119; Operating 
the Trap, 119; Killing Specimens, 119; 
a Killing Jar, 12c; a Lamp Chimney 
Observatory, 120; an Observation 
Cage, 121; Carrying-Receptacles, 
122; a Spreading-Board, 122; Drying 
Specimehs, 122; a Specimen Cabinet, 
123; an Herbarium Press, 125; the 
Top and Bottom Boards, 125; the 
Layers of Drying Material, 126; 
Assembling the Press, 126 
Compass, Your Watch as a, 106 
Concrete, To Mix, 53; Placing 54, 55; 

Reinforcing, 56; Waterproofing, 56 
Concrete Bird Bath, A, 60; the Market 
for Bird Baths, 60; Wooden Forms 
for a, 60; to Cast a, 61 
Concrete Circular Pool, 68 
Concrete Fish Pond, A, 52; Size of the 
Pond, 53; Excavating, 53; Forms, 53; 
the Bottom Cinders, 53; to Mix Con¬ 
crete, 53; Placing the Bottom, 54; to 
Prepare the Wall Forms, 55; to Cast 
the Walls, 55; Removing the Forms, 



414 


INDEX 


56; Reinforcing, 56; Waterproofing, 
56; a Drain, 5 7; Stocking the Pond, 57 
Containers, Food, 194 
Contests, Kite, 133, 139; Race, 140; 
Pulling, 141; Altitude, 141; Aerial 
Battle, 141; Kite Building, 141; 
Beauty, 141; Novelty, 141; the 
Success of, 141 

Conyne Kite, A, 146; the Construction, 
147; the Sticks, 147; the Covering 
. Material, 149; the Triangular Cells, 
149; the Hexagonal Plane, 149; the 
Bridle, 149 

Cot, A Camp, 185, 244; a Folding, 246; 
a Rustic, 263 

Cotes and a Fly, Pigeon, 76; a Small 
Cote, 76; the Building Material, 77; 
the Front Wall Sections, 77; the Door¬ 
ways, 78; the Floor, 78; the Roof, 
79; an Enclosed Fly, 79; the Frame¬ 
work, 79; the Bracing, 79; the 
Poultry Netting, 79; the Doorways, 
79; to Erect, 79; the Nests, 80; the 
Nesting Material, 80; a Lice Pre¬ 
ventive Measure, 80; the Roosts, 80; 
Feed Hoppers and Water Containers, 
81; a Sectional Pigeon Cote, 81; the 
Material, 81; the Platform, 82; a 
Typical Story Section, 84; Doorways, 
84; the Floor, 84; Partitions, 84; the 
Roof, 84; Assembling, 84; Painting, 85 
Cottage, A Tent, 231; the Design and 
Size, 231; Material, 232; the Frame¬ 
work, 232; Covering Material, 232; 
Building the Framework, 233; the 
Floor Platform, 233; the Side Walls, 
234; Roof Rafters, 234; the End Walls, 
235; Boarding Up the Walls, 235; the 
Gate, 235; the Canvas Covering, 235; 
Packing the Canvas, 235; Awnings 
for the Openings, 235; the Doorway 


Curtain, 236; Painting, 236; Water¬ 
proofing, 236 

Cowl Lamps, Pushmobile, 5 
Crib, A Diving Tower, 329 
Crystal Radio Set, A Camp, 204 
Cupboard and Chest, 271 
Curtain, A BB Trap, 35 
Curtain, A Tent, 191, 217; a Tent Cot¬ 
tage, 235, 236 

Cylinders, A Minnow Trap’s, 364 

D 

Decks, The Shelter Tent Houseboat, 319 
Decorating an Ice-Yacht Sail, 387 
Disk Wheels, 2, 16 

Diving-Raft and a Tower, a 321; a 
Raft With Air-Tanks, 321; Empty Oil 
Barrels, 321; the Cradle Supports, 
322; the Raft Platform, 323; the 
Diving Spring-Board, 323; Painting, 
325; Anchors, 325; a Diving-Tower 
325; the Building Material, 326; the 
Framework, 327; a Crib, 329; the 
Ladder, 329; the Platforms, 329; 
the Spring-Board, 329; the Dedica¬ 
tion, 330; Another Type of Tower, 330 
Door, A Tree Hut Batten, 230 
Doors, Bank Oven, 290 
Doorways, Bird-House, 64, 69, 71, 74; 

. Pigeon Cote, 78; Pigeon Fly, 79; 
Sectional Pigeon Cote, 84; Snow 
Hut, 88, 90 

Dragging Wire Aerial, 209 
Drain for Fish Pond, 57 
Dresser, A Camp, 272 
Drum, A Kite Reel Winding, 154 
Drying-Reel, A Fishing-Line, 359 
Duffle Bags, 199 

E 

Eskimo Hut, A Snow, 86; the Walls, 86; 
the Roof Framework, 86; the Snow 
Roof, 87; the Doorway, 88 
Excavation, A Fish Pond, 53 




INDEX 


415 


F 

Feeding Stations, Bird, 160; Winter 
Food for, 160; a Suet Station, 161; a 
Suet and Seed Station, 162; a Cafe¬ 
teria, 165; Finishing, 167; Building, 
to Sell, 168 

Fence Hooks, Barbed Wire, 107 

Finishing, Pushmobiles, 20; a Sail- 
mobile, 32; Stilts, 44; Bird Houses, 
64, 70; 73; a Pigeon Cote, 85; a Trek 
Cart, 99; a Bicycle Carrier, 115; Kite 
Models, 139; Bird Feeding Stations, 
167; a Coaster, 172; a Tent Cottage 
Framework, 236; Camp Table With 
Benches, 256; Lee-boards, 298; a Flat- 
Bottomed Boat, 308; a Lazy-Back, 
310; a Waterproofed Boat, 314; a 
Shelter Tent Houseboat, 320; a 
Diving-Raft, 325; a Water Scooter, 
339; a Water Chute Coaster, 348; a 
Marine Telescope, 379; an Ice-Yacht, 
386; Skiis, 400; a Skiing Staff, 402 

Fireplaces, Camp, 278; Starting a Cook¬ 
ing Fire, 278; Forest Fires and Their 
Prevention, 279; a Fire-Pit, 280; 
Fire-Logs, 281; a Crane, 281; a Lug-? 
Pole, 281; Pot-Hooks, 282 

First-Aid Kit, A Vest-Pocket, 108; 
First-Aid Supplies, 108; the Tobacco 
Can Container, 109 

Fishing, Winter, 403; Signals for, 403; 
the Tip-Up Device, 403; the Line, 
404; Cutting the Fishing-Hole, 404; 
an Ice-Cutter, 404; Unprotected Ice- 
Holes, 405; a Shelter, 406; the Tent 
Platform, 407; the Tent Poles, 407; 
an End Gate, 408. 

Fishing-Rod, a Home-Made, 349; the 
Tip, 350; Guides, 350; Repairs, 350; 
Lost Tips and Guides, 350; Broken 
Rods, 351; Whipping Spliced Joints, 

351 


Fishing-Tackle, 349; a Home-Made 
Fishing-Rod, 349; the Tip, 350; 
Guides, 350; Fishing-Pole Repairs, 
350; Lost Tips and Guides, 350; 
Broken Rods, 351; Whipping Spliced 
Joints, 351; Floats, 352; the Cork 
Float, 352; Sinkers, 352; BB Shot 
Sinkers, 352; Cast Sinkers, 352; Stone 
Sinkers, 354; Knots and Hitches Used 
by Fishermen, 355; a Small Tackle- 
Box, 355; Preparing the Cigar-Box, 
356; Stringers, 357; the Way to Use, 
358; a Fishing-Line Drying-Reel, 359 

Fish Ponds, Lily Ponds, and Bird Baths, 
52; a Concrete Fish Pond, 52; Size 
of the Pond, 53; the Excavation, 53; 
Forms, 53; the Bottom Cinders, 53; 
to Mix Concrete, 53; Placing the 
Bottoms, 54; to Prepare the Wall 
Forms, 55; to Cast the Walls, 55; 
Removing the Forms, 56; Reinforc¬ 
ing, 56; Waterproofing, 56; Drain,‘57; 
Stocking the Pond, 57; Outdoor 
Swimming Pools, 58; a Circular Pool, 
58; a Concrete Circular Pool, 58; a 
Concrete Bird Bath, 60; a Market 
for, 60; Wooden Forms, 60; to Cast 
the Bird Bath, 61 

Flaps, Tent, 216 

Flat-Bottomed Boat, A, 301; the Build¬ 
ing Material, 302; Cutting the Parts, 
304; the Stem-Piece, 304; the Stern- 
Piece, 304; the Center Mold, 304; the 
Sides, 304; Assembling, 304; the 
Bottom Boards, 306; the Upper Side 
Boards, 306; to Complete the Outside, 
306; the Keel, 306; Calking, 307; the 
Seats, 307; Oar Lockets and Oars 
307; Oars, 307; Painting, 308; Letter-, 
ing the Name, 308; Refinements in 
Boat Building, 308; a Lazy-Back, 309; 
Finishing, 310; an Anchor, 310 



4i6 


INDEX 


Floats, 352; Cork, 352 
Fly, An Enclosed Pigeon, 79; the Frame¬ 
work, 79; Bracing, 79; Poultry Net¬ 
ting, 79; Doorway, 79 
Flying, Kite, 133; a Kite Tournament, 
139; Races, 140; the Pulling Test, 
141; the Altitude Test, 141; an Aerial 
Battle, 141; the Building Test, 141; 

r 

the Beauty Contest, 141; the Novelty 
Contest, 141; the Success of the 
Tournament, 141 

Flying Line, A Kite, 136; Joining the, 
138; a Malay Kite, 145; a Conyne 
Kite, 146; a Box Kite, 153 
Folding Camp Grate, 284 
Folding Camp Cot, 246; Cutting the 
Parts, 246; Assembling, 247; the 
Canvas Covering, 248 
Food-Bags, 266 

Food Supplies, Motor-Camping, 193; 
What to Have for Meals, 194; a Re¬ 
frigerator for, 194; a Fisherman’s 
Refrigerator for, 194; Other Con¬ 
tainers for, 194; a Kitchen Cabinet 
for, 195; a Home-Made Cabinet for, 

195 

Foot of Sail, 32 

Forms, Concrete Fish Pond, 53; to 
Prepare, 55; Removing, 56 
Furnishings, Camp, 265; Food-Bags, 
266; a Meat-Safe, 267; a Refrigerator, 
267; a Chest and Cupboard, 271; a 
Dresser, 272; a Wash-Stand, 274; a 
Candle Lantern, 274; a Hat-Tree, 
275; Clothes-Hangers, 276; Clothes- 
Pin Hangers, 276; a Match Container, 
227; a Camp Broom, 277; a Small 
Shovel, 277 

Furniture, Camp, 244; a Camp Cot, 
244; a Folding Cot, 246; a Camp 
Chair, 248; a Backwoods Chair, 251; 
a Box Chair, 252; a Camp Table, 252; 


a Table With a Shelf, 253; a Table 
with Benches Combined, 253 
Furniture, Rustic, 257; a Bench, 257; 
Tree Seats, 261; a Double Seat, 261; 
a Tree Bench, 262; a Rustic Wash- 
Stand, 262; a Cot, 263; a Hat-Tree, 
264 

G 

Gaff, An Ice-Yacht, 384 
Gasoline Stove, A Two-Bumer, 192 
Gate, A Tent Cottage, 235 
Gauge Board, 131 
Glue, Marine, 312 

Grate, A Camp, 193; a Folding Camp, 
284; a Hinge, 285 
Grommets, Sail, 32, 293, 386, 392 
Ground Cloth, 191; 217 
Grounds, Camp Radio, 209 
Grounds, Tourist Camp, 202 
Guides, Fishing Rod, 350 

s 

H 

Halyard, A Sailmobile, 31; a Lateen 
Sail, 294; an Ice-Yacht, 386 
Hand Car or Bicycle Trailer, A Coaster, 

. 24; the Parts, 25; the Wheels, 26; 

Push Blocks or Sticks, 26 
Hand Net, 116 

Hand Stilts, 42; the Material, 42; the 
Uprights, 44; the Steps, 45; the Toe 
Straps, 44; Finishing, 44 
Hangers, Bird House, 66, 67, 70, 71; 
Bird Cafeteria, 166 

Hangers, Clothes, 276; Clothes-Pin, 276 
Hat-Tree, A Rustic, 264; A, 275 
Haversack, 105 

Headlights, Puslimobile, 5, 15, 20 
Head of Sail, 32 

Herbarium Press, An, 25; the Top and 
Bottom Boards, 125; the Layers of 
Drying Material, 126; Assembling 
the Press, 126 



INDEX 


417 


Hike and Bike Kits, 103; the Way to’ 
Make a Blanket Roll, 103; a Haver¬ 
sack, 105; a Neckerchief Slide, 105; 
a Turtle Shell Neckerchief Slide, 105; 
Your Watch as a Compass, 106; 
Barbed-Wire Fence Hooks, 107; a 
Vest Pocket First-Aid Kit, 108; 
First-Aid Supplies, 108; a Mending 
Kit, log; a Bicycle Parcel-Carrier, 
112; a Home-Made Carrier, 112; to 
Make the Carrier, 113; Painting, 115; 
a Bicycle Road Map, 115; Mounting 
a Map on Muslin, 115 
Hinge Grate, 285 

Hip Stilts, 45; Uprights, 45; Steps, 47; 
Shoe and Ankle Straps, 47; the Waist 
Belt, 47; Paper Trousers, 48; a Coat, 
49; a Top Hat, 49 

Hitches and Knots Used by Fishermen, 

355 

Hood, A Pushmobile,’4, 13, 18, 19 
Hooks, Barbed-Wire Fence, 107 
Hoppers, Pigeon-Cote Feed, 81; Feed¬ 
ing Station Seed, 167 
Horn, A Pushmobile, 19 
Horse-Collar Roll, A Hiking, 220 
Hospital, A Kite, 142 
Houseboat, A Shelter Tent, 315; the 
Building Material, 315; the Hull, 317; 
the Sides, 317; the Bow and Stern, 
318; the Bottom Boards, 318; the 
Cabin Floor, 319; the Decks, 319; 
Lockers, 320; Painting the Hull, 320; 
the Tent Cabin, 320; Fittings, 320; 
a Pair of Oars, 320 

Houses, Snow, 86; the Dome-Shaped 
Eskimo Hut, 86; the Walls, 86; the 
Roof Framework, 86; a Snow Roof, 
87; the Doorway, 88; the Snow Block 
House, 88; a Mold for Casting Blocks, 
90; Casting, 90; Building the Block 


House, 90; a Window, 90; the Door¬ 
way, 90; the Roof, 90 
Houses, Wren and Bluebird, 63; Build¬ 
ing Specifications, 64; Height to 
Place, 64; Paint or Stain, 64; a Wren 
Bungalow, 64; the Entrance Hole, 66; 
Provision for Cleaning, 66; Hangers, 
66; a Bluebird Bungalow, 66; Hang¬ 
ing the House, 67; a Wren Turret, 67; 
the Materials, 67; the Construction, 
69; Doorways, 69; Perches, 69; Par¬ 
titions, 69; the Ceiling, 69; the Roof, 
70; Shingles, 70; the Priming Coat of 
Paint, 70; the Second Coat, 70; the 
Roof Peak and Hangers, 70; Assemb¬ 
ling, 71; Spring House Cleaning, 71; 
Hanging the Turret, 71; a Bluebird 
Round-House, 71; the Construction, 
71; the Doorway, 71; a Tin Basin 
Roof, 72; a Perch, 73; the Floor, 73; 

I 

the Support, 73; Painting, 73; a 
Martin Apartment House, 73; At¬ 
tracting Martins, 74; Keeping Out 
English Sparrows, 74 
Hull, Tent Houseboat, 317 
Hut, A Snow {see House) 

Hut, A Tree, 229; Walls, 229; to Set Up 
the Walls, 230; the Roof, 230; a 
Batten Door, 230; Wall Insulation, 
230 

I 

Ice-Cutter, 404 

Ice-Fishing, 403; Signals for, 403; the 
Tip-Up Device, 403; the Line, 404; 
Cutting the Fishing-Hole, 404; an 
Ice-Cutter, 404; Unprotected Ice- 
Holes, 405; a Shelter, 406; the Tent 
Platform, 407; the Tent Poles, 407; 
an End Gate, 408 

Ice-Yacht, An, 380; the Material, 380; 
the Runner-Blocks, 381; Skate Run- 



4i8 


INDEX 


ners, 381; the Mast Socket, 381; the 
Rear Runner-Blocks, 381; the Steer¬ 
ing Gear, 383; the Seat, 384; the 
Spars, Sail and Rigging, 384; the 
Mast, 384; the Boom and Gaff, 384; 
the Sail, 386; Mast Rings, 386; the 
Halyard, 386; the Sheet, 386; a Brake, 
386; Finishing, 386; a Flag, 386; 
Decorating the Sail, 387 
Insulation, Tree Hut, 230 
Insulation Lumber, 339 

J 

Joists, Tree Platform, 223, 226 

K 

Keel, 306 

Killing Jar, A Nature Study, 120 
Kit, A First-Aid, 108; the Tobacco Can 
Container, 109; a Mending, 109 
Kitchen Cabinet, An Auto, 195; a 
Home-Made, 195 

Kite Reels, 154; a Shin Reel, 154; the 
Winding Drum, 154; the Frame, 156; 
the Crank, 158*, the Shin Stick, 158; 
a Hand Reel, 158; a Body Reel, 158 
Kites, More, 143; the Malay or Bow, 
143; the Sticks, 144; the Covering, 
144; the Bridle, 144; How to Make 
It Perform Erratically, 145; the 
Conyne Kite, 146; the Construction, 
147; the Sticks, 147; the Covering 
Material, 149; the Triangular Cells, 
149; the Hexagonal Plane, 149; the 
Bridle, 149; the Box Kite, 149; If You 
Bungle the Work, 150; the Side 
Frames, 150; the Diagonal Struts, 
152; the Cell Covering, 152; Assemb¬ 
ling, 152; the Bridle, 153; to Launch, 
153; If Your Kite Doesn’t Fly, 153. 
Kites and Kite Tournaments, 132; Kite 
Flying as a School Project, 133; Kite 


Workmanship, 134; Kite Making 
Materials, 134; the Sticks, 134; to 
Prepare Sticks, 134; the Material for 
Sticks, 135; Thread for Binding the 
Framework, 135; the Covering Ma¬ 
terial, 135; the Flying Line, 136; Kite 
Construction, 136; the Secret of 
Making a Framework, 136; the Stick 
Ends, 136; the Modem Way of 
Notching, 136; to Fasten the Fram¬ 
ing String, 136; Methods of Attach¬ 
ing the Bridle, 136; Tails, 138; Joining 
the Flying Line, 138; Covering the 
Framework, 138; Decorating Kite 
Models, 139; a Kite Tournament • 
139; Races, 140; the Pulling Test, 
141; the Altitude Test, 141; an Aerial 
Battle, 141; a Kite Building Contest, 
^141; the Beauty Contest, 141; the 
Novelty Contest, 141; the Success of 
the Tournament, 141; a Kite Hospital, 
142 

Kits, Hike and Bike, 103; the Way to 
Make a Blanket Roll, 103; a Haver¬ 
sack, 105; a Neckerchief Slide, 105; 
a Turtle Shell Neckerchief Slide, 105; 
Your Watch as a Compass, 106; 
Barbed-Wire Fence Hooks, 107; a 
Vest Pocket First-Aid Kit, 108; First- 
Aid Supplies, 108; a Mending Kit, 
109; a Bicycle Parcel-Carrier, 112; 
a Home-Made Carrier, 112; to Make 
the Carrier, 113; Painting, 115; a 
Bicycle Map, 115; Mounting a Map 
on Muslin, 115 

Knots and Hitches Used by Fishermen, 

355 

L 

Ladder, A Tree Platform, 226; a Div¬ 
ing Tower, 329; a Water Chute, 346 

Lamps, Busjhmobile, 5, 15, 20 



INDEX 


419 


Lantern, A Candle, 274 
Launching a Box Kite, 153 
Lateen Sail, 291; the Sail, 291; the Spars 
293; the Mast, 294; the Boom and 
Yard, 294; the Halyard, 294; the 
Sheet, 295 
Lazy-Back, 309 
Leach Edge of a Sail, 32 
Leak-Proof, Making Your Boat, 311; 
Waterproofing, 311; Marine Glue, 
312; the Covering Material, 312; 
Applying the Waterproofing, 312; 
the Glue, 312; Spreading the Cloth, 
312; Ironing the Cloth, 312; Finishing, 

314 

Lean-to Shelter, A, 240; the Frame¬ 
work, 241; Thatching, 242 
Lean-to Tent, 189 

Lee-Boards, Canoe, 295; the Stock, 297; 
Laying Out the Pieces, 297; Cutting, 
297; the Cross Bar, 297; Assembling, 
298; Finishing, 298; to Prevent 
Warping, 298 

Leg-o’-Mutton Sail, A, 30; Mast for a, 
30; Spars for a, 30; Rigging for a, 31; 
Making the, 32 
Lettering a Boat, 308 
Lice Preventive Measure, A Pigeon 
Cote, 80 

Lightning Arrester, A Camp Radio, 210 
Lily Ponds, Concrete, 52; Size of the 
Pond, 53; Excavating for, 53; Forms 
for, 53; the Bottom Cinders, 53; to 
Mix Concrete, 53; Placing the Bot¬ 
tom, 54; to Prepare the Wall Forms, 
55; to Cast the Walls, 55; Removing 
the Forms, 56; Reinforcing, 56; 
Waterproofing, 56; a Drain, 57; 
Stocking the Pond, 57; a Circular 
Pool, 58; a Concrete Circular Pool, 

58 

Line Drying-Reel, 359 


Live-Bait Box, A, 366; to Make a, 367; 
to Set Up a, 368 

Lockers, Shelter Tent Houseboat, 320 
Lockets, Oar, 307 
Loop Aerial in Camp, 208 
Loud Speakers, Camp, 210 
Luff Edge of a Sail, 32 
Malay Kite, 143; the Sticks, 144; the 
Covering, 144; the Bridle, 144; How 
to Make It Perform Erratically, 145 
Map, A Bicycle Road, 115; Mounting 
on Muslin, 115 
Marine Glue, 312 

Marine Telescope, A, 376; a Home-Made 
376; the Glass End, 376; the Box, 377; 
Handles, 379; to Counterbalance the 
Buoyancy, 379; Painting, 379; Pan¬ 
oramic View, 379 
Market, A Bird Bath, 60 
Martin Apartment House, A, 73 
Martins, Attracting, .74; Keeping Out 
English Sparrows, 74 
Mast, A Sailmobile, 30; a Radio, 100; 
a Lateen Sail, 294; a Portable Sail 
300; an Ice-Yacht, 384; Rings for, 386 
Mast Step, A Saihnobile, 30 
Match Container, 277 
Mattress, A Pneumatic, 185 
Meals, Motor Camping, 194 
Meat-Safe, 267 
Mending Kit, 109 

Minnow Bucket, A, 369; a Floating, 370 
Minnow-Seine, Trap and Other Devices, 
A, 362; a Home-Made, 362; to Make 
a, 362; a Good Way to Handle a, 363; 
a Minnow Trap, 353; the Wire 
Cylinders, 364; the Conical Ends, 365; 
a Live-Bait Box, 366; to Make It, 
367; to Set It Up, 368; a Dip-Net, 
368; a Minnow-Bucket, 369; a Float¬ 
ing Minnow-Bucket, 370; the Inset, 

370 



420 


INDEX 


Minnow-Trap, A, 363; the Wire Cyl¬ 
inders, 364; the Conical Ends, 

365 

Molds, for Water Scooter, 334 
Mosquito-Netting Curtain for Tent, 
191, 217 

Moth Trap, A, 117; the Lighted End, 
119; Operating, 119 
Motor-Camping, 177; the Outfit, 178 
the Motor-Camping Caravan, 179; 
the Motor Pullman, 179; a Home- 
Made Pullman, 179; the Trailer, 180; 
a Home-Made Trailer, 180; Objec¬ 
tions to Trailers Not Substantiated, 
181; Car Beds, 181; One Type of Car 
Bed, 182; Another Type, 182; a 
Home-Made Bed, 182; Another 
Scheme, 184; Camp Cots, 185; a 
Pneumatic Camp Mattress, 185; 
Bedding, 186; Tents, 186; Wall Tent, 
186; Tent Poles, 187; Folding Tent 
Poles, 188; the Lean-To Tent, 189; 
the Umbrella Tent, 190; the Shelter 
Tent, 190; a Ground Cloth, 191; a 
Mosquito-Netting Curtain, 191; a 
Tent Bag, 191; Stoves, 191; the Two- 
Burner Gasoline Stove, 192; a Camp 
Grate, 193; Food Supplies, 193; 
What to Have for Meals, 194; a Re¬ 
frigerator, 194; a Fisherman’s Re¬ 
frigerator, 194; Other Food Contain¬ 
ers, 194; a Kitchen Cabinet, 195; a 
Home-Made Cabinet, 195; Utensils, 
196; Clothing, 197; Shoes, 197; 
Poncho, 197; Sundry Needs, 197; 
Camping Sundries, 197; Automobile 
Sundries, 198; Personal Sundries, 198; 
Packing the Outfit, 198; a Running- 
Board Rack, 199; Duffle Bags, 199; 
Running-Board Boxes, 199; a Home- 
Made Running-Board Box, 199; 

* 

Making and Breaking Camp, 201; 


JMaking Camp an Hour Before Sun¬ 
set, 201; the Water Supply, 201; 
Obtaining Permission to Camp, 202; 
Tourist Camp Grounds, 202; Break¬ 
ing Camp, 202 

Motor Car, A Home-Made, 20 

Mounting a Map on Muslin, 115 

N 

Nature Study Collections, 116; a Hand 
Net, 116; the Hoop and Handle, 116; 
Sewing the Net, 116; a Moth Trap, 
117; the Lighted End, 119; Operating 
the Trap, 119; Killing Specimens, 
119; a Killing Jar, 120; a Lamp 
Chimney Observatory, 120; an Ob¬ 
servation Cage, 121; Carrying-Re¬ 
ceptacles, 122; a Spreading-Board, 
122; Dr3dng Specimens, 122; a Speci¬ 
men Cabinet, 123; an Herbarium 
Press, 125; the Top and Bottom 
Boards, 125; the Layers of Drying 
Material, 126; Assembling the Pieces, 
126 

Neckerchief Slide, A, 105; a Turtle 
Shell, 105 

Nests, Pigeon Cote, 80; Material for, 80 

Net, A Hand, 116 

Netting, Poultry, 79 

Netting, Mosquito, 191, 217 

O 

Oar Lockets, 307 

Oars, 307, 320 

Observatory^ A Lamp Chimney, 120; 
a Cage, 121 

Outfit, A Motor Camping, 178; Packing 
the, 198 

Oven, A Bank, 285; the Fire-Pot, 286; 
the Oven, 287; the Chimney, 287; 
the Doors, 290 





INDEX 


421 


P 

Painter, A Boat, 310; a Houseboat, 320 
Painting a Pushmobile, 5, 20; a Sail- 
mobile, 32; Stilts, 44; Bird Houses, 
64, 70, 73; a Pigeon Cote, 85 a Trek 
Cart, 99; a Bicycle Carrier, 115; Kite 
Models, 139; Bird Feeding Stations, 
167; a Coaster, 172; a Tent Cottage 
Framework, 236; a Camp Table With 
Benches, 256; a Flat-Bottomed Boat, 
308; a Waterproofed Boat, 314; a 
Shelter Tent Houseboat, 320; a 
Diving-Raft, 325; a Water Scooter, 
339; a Water Chute Coaster, 348; 
a Marine Telescope, 379; an Ice- 
Yacht, 368; a Skiing Staff, 402 
Panoramic Views With a Marine 
Telescope, 379 

Parcel-Carrier, A Bicycle, 112; a Home- 
Made, 112; to Make the, 113; 
Painting, 115 

Partitions, Bird House, 69; Pigeon Cote 
84 

Perches, Bird House, 69, 73; Pigeon 
Cote, 80; Bird Cafeteria, 167 
Pictures, Stereoscopic, 128; With Your 
Camera, 128; Exposures, 128; Trans¬ 
posing Prints, 129; Making the Gauge 
Board, 131; a Camera Tripod, 131 
Pigeon Cotes and a Fly, 76; a Small 
Cote, 76; the Building Material, 77; 
the Front Wall Sections, 77; the 
Doorways, 78; the Floor, 78; the 
Roof, 79; an Enclosed Fly, 79; the 
Framework, 79; Bracing, 79; Poultry 
Netting, 79; the Doorway, 79; to 
Erect, 79; Nests, 80; Nesting Ma¬ 
terial, 80; a Lice Preventive Measure, 
80; Roosts, 80; Feed Hoppers and 
Water Containers, 81; a Sectional 
Pigeon Cote, 81; the Material, 81; 
the Platform, 82; a Typical Story 


Section, 84; the Doorways, 84; the 
Floor, 84; Partitions, 84; the Roof, 
84; Assembling, 84; Painting, 85 
Pipes, Revolving Target, 38 
Pitching a Shelter Tent, 215 
Pits for Pushmobile Races, 7 
Plane, An Hexagonal Kite, 149 
Platform, A Diving-Raft, 323; a Diving 
Tower, 329; a Winter Fishing Shelter, 
407 

Platform, A Tree, 222; Old Lumber, 
222; the Supports, 222; Joists, 223; 
Struts, 223; the Floor, 224; a Railing, 
224 

Pneumatic Mattress, 185 
Poles, Tent, 187; Folding, 188; Shelter 
Tent, 212; Length of, 212; Tree 
Branch, 213; Regulation Tent, 213; 
Omitting, 216; Tepee, 238 
Poncho, 197 

Ponds, Fish and Lily, 52; a Concrete 
Fish Pond, 52; Size of the Pond, 53; 
the Excavation, 53; Forms, 53; the 
Bottom Cinders, 53; to Mix Concrete, 
53; Placing the Bottom, 54; to Pre¬ 
pare the Wall Forms, 55; to Cast the 
Walls, 55; Removing the Forms, 56; 
Reinforcing, 56; Waterproofing, 56; 
a Drain, 57; Stocking the Pond, 57; 
a Circular Pool, 58; a Concrete 
Circular Pool, 58 

Portable Radio Set, A, 204; Carrying 
Cases for, 205; a Water-Proof Cover 
for, 205; a Suit-Case Carrying Case 
for, 205 

Portable Sail, A, 298; the Sail, 298; the 
Sprit, 300; the Mast, 300; to Support 
the Mast, 300 
Poultry Netting, 79 

Prairie Schooner Top, A Trek Cart, 97; 

the Hoops, 97; the Cover, 98 
Press, An Herbarium, 125; the Top and 




422 


INDEX 


Bottom Boards, 125; the Layers of 
Drying Material, 126; Assembling 
the Press, 126 

Priming Coat, 70 

Pullman, A Motor, 179; a Home-Made, 
179 

Pup Tent (see Shelter Tent) 

Push Blocks, Coaster, 26 

Pushmobiles, Late Model, 10; Your 
Next Year’s Model Roadster, 10; the 
Chassis, 12; the Body, 13; the Hood, 
13; the Radiator, 13; the Steering 
Gear, 14; Lamps, 15; a Racing Car 
With a Torpedo Body, 15; the Chas¬ 
sis, 15; the Wheel Axles, 16; Disk 
Wheels, 16; the Hood, 18; the Steering 
Wheel Post, 18; the Steering Cable, 18; 
the Seat, 18; the Rear Framework, 
18; Enclosing the Body Framework, 
19; Completing the Hood, 19; a Horn, 
19; Headlights, 20; a Tail-Light, 20; 
Painting, 20; a Motor Car, 20 

Pushmobiles and Pushmobile Racing, 
i; Wheels, 2; Disk Wheels, 2; Axles, 
3; the Chassis, 3; Steering Gears, 4; 
Bodies, 4; Other Accessories, 5; the 
Hood, 4; the Radiator Front, 5; a 
Front Bumper, 5; a Radiator Cap, 5; 
Headlights, 5; Cowl Lamps, 5; a 
Spotlight, 5; a Windshield, 5; Finish¬ 
ing, 5; Competitive Building, 5; 
Pushmobile Races, 6; Racing Rules, 
7; the Team, 7; Pits, 7; Officials, 8; 
Prizes, 9; Car Specifications, 9 

R 

Races, Pushmobile, 6; Rules for, 7; the 
Team, 7; Pits, 7; Officials, 8; Prizes, 
9; Kite, 140 

Racing Pushmobile With Torpedo 
Body, IS 

Rack, A Bird Suet, 161; the Parts, 162; 


the Wire Front, 162; a Suet and Seed, 
162; the Parts, 162; the Suet Cup, 165 
Rack, A Running-Board, 199 
Radiator, A Pushmobile, 5, 13, 19; a 
Cap for a, 5 

Radio in Camp, Your, 203; the Crystal 
Set, 204; the One-Tube Set, 204; 
Portable Sets, 204; Carrying Cases, 
205; a Waterproof Cover, 205; a 
Suit-Case Carrying Case, 205; Bat¬ 
teries and Spare Parts, 207; the 
Aerial, 207; Tree Aerials, 207; a Trek 
Cart Aerial, 208; a Car Aerial, 208; 
the Loop Aerial, 208; Water-Craft 
Aerials, 208; a Dragging Wire Aerial, 
209; Grounds, 209; Loud Speakers, 
210; a Lightning Arrester, 210 
Radio Mast, A Hike, 100 
Raft and a Tower, A Diving, 321; a 
Raft With Air-Tanks, 321; Empty 
Oil Barrels, 321; Cradle Supports, 
322; the Raft Platform, 326; the 
Diving Spring-Board, 323; Painting, 
325; Anchors, 325; a Diving Tower, 
325; the Building Material, 325; the 
Framework, 327; a Crib, 329; the 
Ladder, 329; the Platforms, 329; the 
Spring-Board, 329; Dedication, 330; 
Another Type of Tower, 330 
Railing, A Tree Platform, 224 
Railway, A Coaster, 348 
Reel, A Fishing-Line Drying-, 359 
Reels, Kite, 154; a Shin Reel, 154; the 
Winding Drum, 154; the Frame, 156; 
the Crank, 158; the Shin Stick, 158; 
a Hand Reel, 158; a Body Reel, 158 
Refrigerator, A Motor Camping, 194; 

a Fisherman’s, 194, a Camp, 267 
Reinforcing Concrete, 56 
Reins for a Water Scooter, 340 
Revolving Target, A, 37; the Target, 
37; Target Rings, 38; Revolving 



INDEX 


423 


Pipes, 38; the Pulley Wheel, 38; 
Mounting the Target, 38; the Revolv¬ 
ing Device, 40 

Rifle Target and BB Trap (see Targets) 
Rigging, A Sailmobile’s, 31; a Canoe’s 
Sail, 291; an Ice-Yacht’s, 384 
Rings, Mast, 380 

Road Map, A, 115; Mounting a, ^on 
Linen, 115 

Roadster Pushmobile, A, 10; the Chassis, 
12; the Body, 13; the Hood, 13; the 
Radiator, 13; the Steering Gear, 14; 
Lamps, 15 

Rod, A Home-Made Fishing, 349; the 
Tip, 350; Guides, 350; Repairs, 350; 
Lost Tips and Guides, 350; Broken 
Rods, 351; Whipping Spliced Joints, 

351 

Roll, A' Shelter-Half, 219 
Roof, A Bird-House, 70, 72; a Pigeon 
Cote, 79, 84; a Snow Hut, 87, 90; a 
Tree Hut, 230 
Roosts, Pigeon Cote, 80 
Runner, A Single, 172 
Runners, Sled, 169; Shoes for, 170; 
Blocks for Ice-Yacht, 381; Skate, 
381; Blocks for Rear, 381 
Running-Board Box;, A, 199; a Home- 
Made, 199 

Running-Board Cabinet, 195; a Home- 
Made, 195 

Running-Board Rack, A, 199 
Running Gear, A Trek Cart, 95 
Rustic Furniture, 257; a Bench, 257; 
Material, 257; Assembling the Frames, 
259; Tree Seats, 261; a Double Seat 
261; a Tree Bench, 262; a Rustic 
Wash-Stand, 262; a Cot, 263; a Hat- 
Tree, 264 

S 

Safe, A Meat, 267 

Sail, A Leg-o’-Mutton, 30; a Mast for 


a, 30; Spars for a, 30; Rigging for a, 
31; Making a, 32 

Sail, An Ice-Yacht, 384, 386; Decorating 

a, 387 

Sailmobile, A, 27; Wheels, 27; the 
Chassis, 28; the Front Wheel Axle, 28; 
the Rear Axle, 29; the Tiller Bar, 29; 
Stirrups, 30; the Mast Step, 30; the 
Leg-o’-Mutton Sail, 30; the Mast, 
30; the Spar Ends, 30; the Rigging, 
31; the Sail, 32; Painting, 32 

Sails and Lee-Boards, Canoe, 291; a 
Lateen Sail, 291; the Sail, 291; the 
Spars, 293; the Mast, 294; the Boom 
and Yard, 294; the Halyard, 294; 
the Sheet, 295; Lee-Boards, 295; the 
Stock, 297; Laying Out the Pieces, 
297; Cutting, 297; the Cross Bar, 297; 
Assembling, 298; Finishing, 298; to 
Prevent Warping, 298; A Small 
Portable Sail, 298; the Sail, 298; the 
Sprit, 300; the Mast, 300; to Support 
the Mast, 300 

Sails and Skiis, Skate, 388; Skate Sail¬ 
ing, 389; a Skate Sail With a “T” 
Frame, 390; the Spars, 390; the Sail, 
390; a Skate Sail With an Inverted 
“A” Frame, 393; The Frame, 393; 
a Square Skate Sail, 395; the Spars, 
395; the Sail, 396; Barrel Stave Skiis, 
397; Skiis of Standard Design, 398; 
the Length, 398; the Best Material, 
399; Skiis of Three-Quarter Inch 
Stock, 399; Shaping the Skiis, 399; 
Curving the Toe End, 399; the Toe 
Strap, 400; Skiis of Thicker Material, 
400; Finishing, 400; a Skiing Staff, 
401; the Spur End of the Staff, 401; 
Painting, 402 

Schooner Top, A Prairie, 97; The Hoops, 
97; the Cover, 98 



424 


INDEX 


Scooter and a Coaster, A, 21; the Two- 
Wheel Scooter, 21; the Reach Plank, 
21; the Pivot Post, 21; the Steering 
Post, 22; a Handle Bar, 22; Hinging 
the Steering Post, 23; Wheels, 24; 
Painting, 24; a Coaster, Hand Car, 
or Bicycle Trailer, 24; the Parts, 25; 
Wheels, 26; Push Blocks or Sticks, 26 
Scooter or Surf Board, A Water, 331; 
the Materials, 333; Cutting the 
Parts, 334; the Molds, 334; the Side 
and Bow Strips, 335; Assembling the 
Parts, 338; Sheathing the Bottom 
and Deck, 339; Insulation Lumber, 
339; the Waterproof Covering, 339; 
Finishing, 339; the Reins and Tow 
Rope, 340 

Scout Trek Cart, A, 93; the Cost and 
Upkeep, 93; the Problem of Wheels, 
94; Building the Cart, 94; the Axle, 
94; the Tongue and Body Frame, 94; 
the Running Gear, 95; the Box, 95; 
the Prairie Schooner Top, 97; the 
Top Hoops, 97; the Top Cover, 98; 
Painting, 99; Other Uses for the Trek 
Cart, 100; a Mast for a Radio Aerial, 
100; to Rig Up the Mast, 100; to 
Carry the Mast Bar, 102 
Seat, A Pushmobile, 13, 18; a Lazy- 
Back, 309; An Ice-Yacht, 384 
Seats, Boat, 307 
Sectional Pigeon Cote, 81 
Seed and Suet Station, A, 162; the Parts, 
162; a Suet Cup, 165 
Seine Trap and Other Devices, A Min¬ 
now, 362; a Home-Made, 362; to 
Make a, 362; a Good Way to Handle 
a, 363; a Minnow-Trap, 363; the 
Wire Cylinders, 364; the Conical 
Ends, 365; a Live-Bait Box, 366; to 
Make It, 367; to Set It Up, 368; a 
Dip Net, 368; a Minnow-Bucket, 


369; a Floating Minnow-Bucket, 370; 
the Inset, 370 
Sheathing, 339 
Shed Tent, 189 
Sheet,'31, 295, 386 

Shell Neckerchief Slide, A Turtle, 105 
Shelter, A Winter Fishing, 406; the 
Tent Platform, 407; the Tent Poles, 
407; an End Gate, 408 
Shelter Tent, A, 190; Using a, 211; 
Reclaimed Tents, 211; a Tent of 
Utility, 212; Poles for, 212; Length 
of Poles, 212; Tree Branch Poles, 213; 
Regulation Tent Poles, 213; Pitching 
a, 215; Omitting Poles, 216; Front 
Flaps, 2i6;aMosquito-Netting Front, 
217; a Ground Cloth, 217; Tents 
Pitched Tandem, 217; a. With Walls, 
218; an Open Front, 218; a Shelter- 
Half Roll, 219; to Form the Horse- 
Collar, 220 

Shelter Tent Houseboat, A, 315; the 
Building Material, 315; the Hull, 317; 
the Sides, 317; the Bow and Stern, 
318; the Bottom Boards, 318; the 
Cabin Floor, 319; the Decks, 319; 
Lockers, 320; Painting the Hull, 320; 
the Tent Cabin, 320; Fittings, 320; 
a Pair of Oars, 320 
Shoes, Motor-Camping, 197 
Shovel, A Camp, 277 
Signals, Fishing, 403; the Tip-Up 
Device, 403 
Single Runner, 172 

Sinkers, 352; BB Shot, 352; Cast, 352; 
Stone, 354 

Skate-Sails and Skiis,| 388; Skate-Sail¬ 
ing, 389; a Skate Sail with a “T” 
Frame, 390; the Spars, 390; the Sail, 
390; a Skate-Sail With an Inverted 
“A” Frame, 393; the Frame, 393; a 
Square Skate-Sail, 395; the Spars, 



INDEX 


425 


395; the Sail, 396; Barrel Stave Skiis, 
397; Skiis of Standard Design, 398; 
the Length, 398; the Best Material, 
399; Skiis of Three-Quarter Inch 
Stock, 399; Shaping the Skiis, 399; 
Curving the Toe End, 399; the Toe 
Straps, 400; Skiis of Thicker Material, 
400; Finishing, 400; a Skiing Staff, 
401; the Spur End of the Staff, 401; 
Painting, 402 
Skiing Staff, 401 

Skiis, Barrel Stave, 397; Standard 
Design, 398; Three-Quarter-Inch, 399; 
Shaping, 399; Curvifig, 399; Toe 
Straps for, 400; Thicker Material, 
400; Finishing, 400 

Sled, A Coaster and a Single Runner, 
169; a Speedy Coaster, 169; Runners, 
169; Runner Shoes, 170; the Cross¬ 
pieces, 170; the Seat, 171; the Sled 
Handles, 171; Finishing, 172; a 
Single Runner, 172 

Slide, A Neckerchief, 105; a Turtle 
Shell Neckerchief, 105 
Slide, A Water Chute, 346 
Snow Houses, 86; the Dome-Shaped 
Eskimo Hut, 86; the Walls, 86; the 
Roof Framework, 86; the Roof, 87; 
the Doorway, 88; the Snow Block 
House, 88; a Mold for Casting Blocks, 
90; Casting, 80; Building the Block 
House, 90; the Window, 90; the 
Doorway, 90; the Roof, 90 
Sparrows Out of Bird Houses, Keeping, 

74 

Spars, Sailmobile, 30; Lateen Sail, 293; 

Ice-Yacht, 384; Skate-Sail, 390, 395 
Specimens, Collection, 119; Killing, 119; 
a Killing Jar for, 120; a Lamp Chim¬ 
ney Observatory for, 120; an Observa¬ 
tion Cage, 121; a Carrying-Receptacle, 
122; a Spreading-Board, 122; Drying, 


122; a Cabinet for, 123; an Herbarium 
Press for, 125 
Spliced Joints, 351 
Spotlight, A Pushmobile, 5 
Spreading-Board, 122 
Spring-Board, A Diving, 323; a Diving 
Tower, 329 

Sprit, A Canoe Sail, 300 
Square Skate-Sail, A, 395; the Spars, 
395; the Sail, 396 
Staff, A Skiing, 401 

Staining Bird Houses, 64; Bird Feeding 
Stations, 167; Lee-Boards, 298 
Stake-Walking, 51 

Steering Gears, A Pushmobile, 4, 14, 18; 

a Sailmobile, 29; an Ice-Yacht, 383 
Stem-Piece, 304 
Step,*A Mast, 30 

Stereoscopic Pictures, 128; Pictures 
With Your Camera, 128; the Ex¬ 
posures, 128; Transposing Prints, 129; 
Making the Gauge-Board, 131; a 
Camera Tripod, 131 
Stern Piece, 304 

Sticks, Kite, 134; to Prepare, 134; 
Material for, 135; Notching the Ends 
of, 136; Malay Kite, 144; Conyne 
Kite, 147; Box Kite, 150, 152 
Stilts, 41; a Pair of Hand, 42; the 
Material, 42; the Uprights, 44; the 
Steps, 45; the Toe Straps, 44; Finish¬ 
ing, 44; Hip, 45; the Uprights, 45; 
the Steps, 47; the Shoe and Ankle 
Straps, 47; the Waist Belt, 47; Paper 
Trousers, 48; a Coat, 49; a Top Hat, 
49; Tin-Can Trotters, 49; Stake- 
Walking, 51 
Stirrups, 30 

Stocking a Fish Pond, 57 
Stove, Legs for a Camp, 283 
Stoves, 191; Two-Burner Gasoline, 192; 
Camp Grate, 193 



426 


INDEX 


Stringers, 357; the Way to Use, 358 
Struts, 152, 223 

Suet Station for Birds, A, 161; the Parts, 
162; the Wire Front, 162; a Seed and, 
162; the Parts, 162; the Suet Cup, 
165; a Cafeteria, 165; a Grocery Box 
for a, 165; Hangers, 166; the Suet 
Rack, 166; the Perch, 167; the Seed 
Hopper, 167; the Trolley, 167; 
Finishing Feeding Stations, 167; 
Building Feeding Stations to Sell, 168 
Suit-Case Carrying Case, A Portable 
Radio Set, 205 

Sundries, Motor Camping, 197; Auto¬ 
mobile, 198; Personal, 198 
Surf Board, A Water Scooter or a, 331; 
the Materials, 333; Cutting the Parts, 
334; the Molds, 334; the Side and 
Bow Strips, 335; Assembling the 
Parts, 338; Sheathing the Bottom and 
Deck, 339; Insulation Lumber, 339; 
the Waterproof Covering, 339; Finish- 
iiigj 339; the Reins and Tow-Rope, 
340 

Swimming Pools, 58 

T 

Table, A Camp, 252; a. With Shelf, 
253; a. With Benches, 253 
Tackle, Fishing, 349; a Home-Made 
Fishing-Rod, 349; the Tip, 350; 
Guides, 350; Fishing-Pole Repairs, 3 50; 
Lost Tips and Guides, 350; Broken 
Rods, 351; Whipping Spliced Joints, 
351; Floats, 352; the Cork Float, 352; 
Sinkers, 352; BB Shot Sinkers, 354; 
Knots and Hitches, 355; a Small 
Tackle-Box, 355; Preparing the Cigar- 
Box, 356; Stringers, 357; the Way to 
Use a Stringer, 358; a Fishing-Line 
Drying-Reel, 359 
Tail-Light, A Pushmobile, 20 


Tails, Kite, 138 
Tanks, Diving-Tower Air, 321 
Targets, 33; the Air Rifle Target and 
BB Trap, 33; the Target, 33; the 
Framework, 33; the Canvas Curtain, 
35; the Trap, 36; Suspending the 
Target, 36; a Standard Target Sheet, 
36; a Backstop, 36; the Revolving 
Target, 37; the Target, 37; Target 
Rings, 38; Revolving Pipes, 38; a 
Pulley Wheel, 38; Mounting the 
Target, 38; the Revolving Device, 40 
Telescope, A Marine, 376; a Home- 
Made Marine, 376; the Glass End, 
376; the Box, 377; Handles, 379; to 
Counterbalance, 379; Painting, 379; 
Panoramic Views, 379 
Tent, A Shelter, 190; Using a, 211; 
Reclaimed Tents, 211; a Tent of 
Utility, 212; Poles for, 212; Length 
of Poles, 212; Tree Branch Poles, 213; 
Regulation Tent Poles, 213; Pitching 
a, 215; Omitting Poles, 216; Front 
Flaps, 216; a Mosquito-Netting Front 
217; a Ground Cloth, 217; Tents 
Pitched Tandem, 217; a. With Walls, 
218; the Open Front, 218; a Shelter- 
Half Roll, 219; to Form a Horse- 
Collar, 219 

Tent, A Tree, 225; the Framework, 225; 
End Trusses, 226; Joists, 226; the 
Floor, 226; Ladders, 226; a Simpler 
Platform Construction, 227; to Erect, 
227 

Tent Cottage, A, 231; the Design and 
Size, 231; the • Material, 232; the 
Framework, 232; the Covering Ma¬ 
terial, 232; Building the Framework, 
233; the Floor Platform, 233; the 
Side Walls, 234; the Roof Rafters, 
234; the End Walls, 235; Boarding 
Up the Walls, 235; the Gate, 235; the_ 




INDEX 


427 


Canvas Covering, 235; Tacking the 
Canvas, 235; Awnings for the Open¬ 
ings, 235; the Doorway Curtain, 236; 
Painting 236; Waterproofing, 236 
Tent Houseboat, A Shelter, 315; the 
Building Material, 315; the Hull, 317; 
the Sides, 317; the Bow and Stern, 
318; the Bottom Boards, 318; the 
Cabin Floor, 319; the Decks, 319; 
Lockers, 320; Painting the Hull, 320; 
the Tent Cabin, 320; Fittings, 320; 
a Pair of Oars, 320 
Tents, 186; Wall, 186; Poles for, 187; 
Folding Poles for, 188; Lean-to, 189; 
Umbrella, 190; Shelter, 190; Ground 
Cloth for, 191; Mosquito Netting 
Curtain for, 191; Bag for, 191 
Tent Shelter, A Winter Fishing, 406 
Tepees and a Lean-to Shelter, 237; a 
Thatched Tepee, 237; Another Form 
of Tepee, 238; Spacing the Poles, 239; 
the Covering, 240; a Lean-to Shelter, 
240; the Framework, 241; Thatching, 
242; a Bed of Boughs, 242 
“T” Frame Skate-Sail, A, 390; the 
Spars, 390; the Sail, 390 
Thatched Tepee, 237 
Thatching, 242 
Tiller Bar, 29 
Tip, A Fishing-Rod, 350 
Tip-Up Fishing Signal, a, 403; the Line, 
404; Cutting the Fishing-Hole, 404 ^ 

Toe Straps, Stilt, 44; Ski, 400 
Tourist Camp Grounds, 202 
Tournaments, Kite, 133, 139; Races, 
140; the Pulling Test, 141; the 
Altitude Test, 141; an Aerial Battle, 

. 141; a Kite-Building Contest, 141; a 

Beauty Contest, 141; a Novelty 
Contest, 141; the Success of the 
Tournament, 141; a Kite Hospital, 
142 


Tower, A Diving, 325; the Building 
Material, 326; the Framework, 327; 
a Crib, 329; the Ladder, 329; the 
Platforms, 329; the Spring-Board, 
329; Dedication, 330; Another Type 

of, 330 

Tow-Rope, 340 
Tracks, Water Chute, 346 
Trailer, A Coaster, Hand-Car, or Bi¬ 
cycle, 24; the Parts, 25; the Wheels, 
26; Push Blocks or Sticks, 26 
Trailer, An Auto, 180; a Home-Made, 
180; Objections to a, Not Substan¬ 
tiated, 181 

Trap, A Minnow, 363; the Wire Cylin¬ 
ders, 364; the Conical Ends, 365 
Trap, A Moth, 117; the Lighted End, 
119; Operating, 119 
Trap, An Air Rifle Target and BB 
{see Targets) 

Trap, A Turtle, 373; the Box, 373; the 
Tilting Top, 373; Setting Up the, 
375; Baiting the, 375 
Tree Aerial, 207 
Tree Bench, 262 

Tree Platform, Tent and Hut, A, 221; 
a Tree Platform, 222; Old Lumber, 
222; the Platform Supports, 222; the 
Joists, 223; the Struts, 223; the 
Floor, 224; a Railing, 224; a Tree 
Tent, 225; the Framework, 225; the 
End Trusses, 226; the Joists, 226; 
the Floor, 226; Ladders, 226; a 
Simpler Construction, 227; to Erect 
the Tent, 227; a Tree Hut, 229; the 
Walls, 229; to Set Up the Walls, 230; 
the Roof, 230; A Batten Door, 230; 
the Wall Insulation, 230 
Tree Seat, A Double, 261 
Trek Cart, A Boy Scout, 93; the Cost 
and Upkeep, 93; the Problem of 
Wheels, 94; Building the Cart, 94; 




428 


INDEX 


the Axle, 94; the Tongue and Body 
Frame, 94; the Running Gear, 95; 
the Box, 95; the Prairie Schooner 
Top, 97; the Top Hoops, 97; the Top 
Cover, 98; Painting, 99; Other Uses 
for the Trek Cart, 100; a Mast for a 
Radio Aerial, 100; to Rig Up the 
Mast, 100; to Carry the hlast Bar, 
102 

Tripod, A Camera, 131 
Trolley, A Bird Cafeteria, 167 
Trotters, Tin-Can, 49 
Trousers, Stilt, 48 
Trunk, An Auto (see Cabinet) 

Trusses, 226 

Tube Set, A Radio One-, 204 
Turret, A Wren, 67; the Materials, 67; 
the Construction, 69; the Doonvays, 
69; Perches, 69; Partitions, 69; the 
Ceiling, 69; the Roof, 70; Shingles, 
70; the Priming Coat of Paint, 70; 
the Second Coat, 70; the Roof Peak 
and Hangers, 70; Assembling, 71; 
Spring House-Cleaning, 71; Hanging, 

71 . 

Turtle Shell Neckerchief Slide, 105 
Turtle Trap, A, 373; the Box, 373; the 
Tilting Top, 373; Setting Up the, 
375; Baiting the, 375 

U 

Umbrella Tent, 190 
Utensils, Motor-Camping, 196 

V 

Vest Pocket First-Aid Kit, 108; First- 
Aid Supplies, 108; the Tobacco Can 
Container, 109 

W 

Walls, Tree Hut, 229; to Set Up, 230 
Wall Tent, 186; Poles for a, 187; Fold¬ 
ing Poles for a, 188 


Warping, To Prevent, 298 
Wash-Stand, A Camp, 262, 274 
Watch as a Compass, 106 
Water Chute, A, 341; Financing a 
Small, 341; the Material, 341; the 
Construction, 343; the Taking-Off 
Platform, 344; the Starting Platform, 
345; the Slide, 346; a Ladder, 346; 
Tracks, 346; the Coaster, 346; Roller- 
Skate Wheels, 348; Finishing, 348; a 
Coaster Railway, 348 
Water Containers, 81 
Waterproof Cover for Radio, 205 
Waterproofing, Concrete, 56; a Tent 
Cottage, 236; a Water Scooter, 339 
Waterproofing Your Boat, 311; Marine 
Glue, 312; the Covering Material, 
312; Applying the Waterproofing, 
312; the Glue, 312; Spreading the 
Cloth, 312; Ironing the Cloth, 312; 
Finishing, 314 

Water Scooter or Surf Board, A, 331; 
the Materials, 333; Cutting the Parts, 
334; the Molds, 334; the Side and 
Bow Strips, 335; Assembling the^ 
Parts, 338; Sheathing the Bottom 
and Deck, 339; Insulation Lumber, 
339; the Waterproof Covering, 339; 
Finishing, 339; the Reins and Tow- 
Rope, 340 

Water Supply, Camp, 201 
Wheel, A Steering, 4, 14, 18 
Wheels, Pushmobile, 2, 16; Coaster, 
Hand Car or Bicycle Trailer, 26;. 
Saihnobile, 27; Trek Cart, 94 
Whipping Spliced Joints, 351 
Window, A Snow House, 90 
Windshield, A Pushmobile, 5 
Winter Birds, Feeding, 159; a Census. 

of, 159 

Winter Fishing, 403; Signals for, 403; 
the Tip-Up Device, 403; the Lme,„ 





INDEX 


404; Cutting the Fishing-Hole, 404; 
an Ice-Cutter, 404; Unprotected 
Ice-Holes, 405; a Shelter, 406; the 
Tent Platform, 407; the Tent Poles, 
407; an End Gate, 408 

Wren Bungalow, A, 64; the Entrance 
Hole for a, 66; Provision for Cleaning 
a, 66; Hangers for a, 66 

Wren Houses, 63; Building Specifica¬ 
tions, 64; Height to Place, 64; Paint 
or Stain for, 64 

Wren Turret, A, 67; the Materials, 67; 
the Construction, 69; Doorways, 69; 
Perches, 69; Partitions, 69; the 
Ceiling, 69; the Roof, 70; Shingles, 70; 
the Priming Coat of Paint, 70; the 
Second Coat, 70; the Roof Peak and 


Hangers, 70; Assembling, 71; Spring 
House-Cleaning, 71; Hanging, 71 

Y 

Yacht, An Ice, 380; the Materials, 380; 
Runner-Blocks, 381; Skate Runners, 
381; the Mast Socket, 381; Rear 
Runner-Blocks, 381; the Steering 
Gear, 383; the Seat, 384; the Spars, 
Sail and Rigging, 384; the Mast, 384; 
the Boom and Gaff, 384; the Sail, 
386; Mast Rings, 386; the Halyard, 
386; the Sheet, 386; a Brake, 386; 
Finishing, 386; a Flag, 386; Decorat¬ 
ing the Sail, 387 
Yard, A Lateen Sail, 294 






HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Practical Plans for Work and Play with Many Ideae 
for Earning Money 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Author of “The Boy Craftsman” 

With Nearly 600 Illustrations and Working-drawings the Author and 
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For sale by all booksellers, or seat oa receipt of postpaid price by the publishers 

LOTHROP, lee & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 













THE BOY CRAFTSMAN 

Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy’i 
Leisnre Honrs 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Illustrated v/ith over 400 diagrams and working 
drawings 8vo 

T^VERY real boy wishes to design and make 
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LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 













THE HANDY BOY 

A Modern Handy Book of Practical and Profitable Pastimes 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Author of “The Boy Craftsman*’ and 
“Handicraft for Handy Boys” 

With nearly 600 illustrations and working drawings oy 
the Author and Norman P. Hall 8vo Cloth 


A HANDY boy becomes a handy man—a 
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For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid oa receipt of 
price by the publishers 

LOTHROPp LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 




























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